VincentJ

Tom has built some of the nicest planes in you will find in anyone's hangar...

Tony Hallo

The RDS will need inset to the hinge line, might make for a deep pocket in the bull nose.

Melchizedek

Thanks, Tony

Yes, about 5/8 + inset. The thickness of the aileron where it meets the wing is 1 1/4.
This will be one aspect of this bird that might ( somebody has probably done this to a SW) be a little different than the rest.
If done well, put a huge smile on my face.

Kevin

Melchizedek

Picking up where I left off last time.

If you remember, 2 of the joiner webs for the front spars were laminated ply with epoxy. They were drying last time so the rear joiner webs were installed. Now we address the front wing joiners.

Laminated wing joiner JW1, JW2 and non lam JW2 are placed in there respective positions to check fit. The fit fine no adjustment was necessary.
Next the wing joining hardware is clamped into position ( I used spacers off the table to keep them parallel with spars). Then drill holes were marked.
All was removed taken to drill press and drilled then placed back into position.



Next the wing jointer was bolted to the joiner webs while webs in position.
Then the whole assembly was pulled back (trouble free important here) and epoxy was spread and then clamped into position.



Next up was installation of sheer webs. SW1 gets a 5 deg angle on it and fits behind already installed sub rib and up flush with top of cutout for landing gear block. So to get this length I put a 5 deg on a popsicle stick and used it to determine length of SW1.



Then installed the remainder of the shear webs. I am not using CA and have limited clamps so I round robin my clamps. Fit web, glue, clamp, do next one and so on till last clamp used, then unclamp first one and move forward.



Next up Sand the top of leading edge to contour of rib.
Used a 30" sanding bar with 80 grit for this. Taped most of it off so that part could ride on ribs.



Then leading edge sheeting was sheeted with 3/32 x 3 sheet.
The sheeting splits the forward spar and overhangs front edge.
The edge that splits the spar was joined straight first.
I used sticks of lumber (cut up scraps of 2x4) to help clamp.
I have a wood working shop on the other side of basement.
Each piece was joined and ripped for straight true sticks.



Robert, I am getting duct tape this week to cover the lead.


Kevin

TomCrump

Nice progress, Kevin !

Melchizedek

Thanks Tom,

Only getting to work on it on the weekends seems like progress inching along.

One silver lining about the span between shop time, is you get a chance to cement in your mind what you want to do next and how to go about it.

Kevin

TomCrump

It's not a race, Kevin. The main thing is to enjoy yourself during the build.

acerc

And in some ways the time between being in the shop is a good thing. It gives you time to sort things out before hand, instead of after hand.

Melchizedek

Yes indeed Robert, That was the silver lining part.

Tom, no not racing just lamenting not having more free time.

I'm also discovering building with the yellow glue is more relaxing. Forces you to slow down and smell the roses.

Kevin

acerc

Although I agree on the yella goo, sounds as if you sniffed to much of the clear stuff with the roses.

TomCrump

I love the smell of CA in the morning.

VincentJ

Too funny... The yellow glue does take more time, but it also sands so much better than CA. That and epoxy is pretty much all I ever use.

acerc

That explains a lot!!! LOL

TomCrump

What do ya mean ?

Today, it wasn't CA. I waited until after lunch, and it was the smell of lacquer based primer.

Melchizedek

Greetings all

Was able to get a little done this morning.
It was time to glue the aileron spars in. They are 1/8 x 1/4 Balsa.
Trouble was the slots were a little bigger than a 1/4 and the spar a little under.


So I cut new ones.
The replacement were press fit. If only they all were.
A little glue and pressed them in.



Spent some time pondering the aileron mod.
So did a layout on a wing rib.

The ball of the aileron will be 1 1/4 inch at its thickest point.
I'm figuring 1/16 space between it and the socket of the trailing edge of wing. (if this space is not good, then please say so).
Then 1/16 balsa to line socket.


Since there will be a goodly amount of grinding to the socket part.
I decided to beef up the trailing edge of socket with hard maple.

I cut 3/32 by 3/16 inch hard maple. It will eventually get an almost knife edge, will leave a small flat.
First cut the sticks large then sanded them to dimension with this.
This little gem will dimension lumber or balsa to the gnats hiney.


This looks like balsa but it is Hard Maple.



The aileron top leading edge sheeting and the wing top trailing edge sheeting are one and the same on the plans.
When the aileron is cut from the wing this sheeting is cut down the middle.
I decided to split this sheeting and then glue that maple strip to the wing trialing edge sheeting.
This is the knife like edge.

So I taped the maple tightly to the sheeting edge on one side.
Folded them over, spread glue and then pressed flat.



The top sheeting for the leading edge of the aileron gets glued to the ball eventually.
I decided to glue it in its finished place. I first put 8 deg bevel on front edge then used spacers to
hold its correct place. Then glued and pinned it in a couple spots and use a caul to press it.




A great big Thank You to all who are joining me in this journey.

Kevin

acerc

Kevin are you aware you don't actually have to have the wing T/E contoured to match the aileron. The T/E sheeting expanded rearward to cover the gap and with the rotation of the installed aileron no one can see in there.

Melchizedek

Robert, That sure would save a lot of work wouldn't it .
Insert emoticon beating head against wall.

Thanks,
Kevin

acerc

That is what I have done on the Pitts and it worked out great. I can post a pic if you like.

Melchizedek

Yes, please do.

Kevin

acerc

Okie Dokie....
It looks a lot better than the pics are showing.

Melchizedek

Robert, Thank you for the aileron bay pictures.
Grasshopper see much more clearly now.

With the aileron shrouds dry next step was to put the edge on them.
55 degree angle was sufficient to get the rear edge out of the way.
I left a small blunt on them.



Next up, 5/16 of wing trailing edge spar needed to be removed.
This was going to leave the trailing edge mal nourished, so felt it
necessary to feed it. First notched the wing ribs to allow room for a scab spare.
Then glued the scab spare to the original.



When that dried the trailing edge wing spar was notched to make way for aileron ball. 5/16 was removed.



Then the bay shroud was laid in place. It now overhung the spare by 5/16 plus and felt a little mushy between ribs.
So decided to beef it up by gluing 1/4 1/4 balsa to the underside of it. Then cut it back at 55 degree for clearance.



Then glued the trailing edge in place using spacers to hold the correct gap.



Next up. Rib cap strips.



Yay, now we can flip her over.



Till next time,

Kevn

Tony Hallo

What tool are you using for milling the groove? Looks interesting.

Melchizedek

Hi Tony

I used a Dewalt compact router. Kinda like a laminate trim router on steroids.
It works great for small mortis jobs and the like.



I used a zero cut board with the router.
A zero board is actualy 2 boards.
1 wide flat board and a straight edge on top of that.
Say its 3 inches from the cutter blade to edge of router base plate.
Fasten straight edge 3 1/32 away from edge of wide board.
Then run router down straight edge trimming 1/32 away from edge. This is now your zero cut line.
I place that edge on wing where I wanted my finish cut to be and shimmed rear of board so edge sat 90 degrees to surface of wing.
Clamped it down, Made cut in 4 ginger passes lowering bit each pass.



Kevin

Tony Hallo

Thanks, I'll be looking for one. The Dremel tool with router attachment works OK but that thing looks like the bee's knees.

JohnShe

Wow, he who dies with the most toys wins. :-)