Melchizedek

Hi

First a little about me.
My name is Kevin
This will be my third kit build.

My first was a Sig Kadet. I finished the Kadet last year about this time.
I learned to fly on the Kadet this past summer. Crashed it twice and rebuilt it twice.
I will be continuing to improve my flying skills on the Kadet in the spring.
This pic is of the 2nd rebuild. On the 2nd crash I lawn darted it and buried the engine under terra firma.
The wing and tail feathers was all that was salvageable. Ordered another fuse kit from sig
and put her back together.





The second build was just completed. It is a Sig Something extra that I bashed a little.
I probably won't be ready to fly this yet come spring. Will have the guy who taught me to fly
madden it.




I got interested in the Spacewalker while reading VincentJ's Spacewalker 2 build. His builds as well as his build logs are first rate. A joy to read.
I chose the 1/3 scale over the 1/4 for three reasons.

1. I already had a 55 DLE engine.(wouldn't have to buy an engine)
2. I have to get this into or on top of a Honda Civic. The 3 piece wing of the 1/3 seemed to make this possible.
3. If your going to go big, well ..................

Ok now, lets begin.
I will try and do a step by step build log.

This is the box it comes in



At the unboxing and inventory this kit felt daunting.



The wing ribs have been removed from there tree's in these pics.
They are made from ply and stayed very flat, very little bowing.




Some subassemblies are required to be done before the wing construction is to commence.
First was to laminate the 4 wing spars.
The laminations consist of 4 different lengths of spruce strips.
They are 1/8 by 3/4. The longest being 48 inches.

This was my first layup. Sig suggests using epoxy for the lamination. I used Hysol.

I used magnets to hold the spruce straight and square.







As I watched the epoxy squeeze out. I thought. Dummy. Epoxy is getting all over your magnets and your going to glue your magnets to the spar. So I waited for the epoxy to jell. Remove magnets from one side, cleaned epoxy off them. Then scraped the squeeze out off side of spar. Replaced magnets and repeated on other side.

This is my second layup. I used wax paper.



Till next time.
Kevin

Melchizedek

Having completed all 4 spar layups I checked them with the notches on the ribs.
Turned out notches were a little loose. I was able to slide some maple veneer tape (un hot melted kind)
in the slot with the spar. This actually made a real nice snug fit (remember Goldy Locks," just right").



So I decided to laminate the side of my spars with a layer of Maple veneer tape.
Used yellow glue for this.



Side with maple and other side and end.
I used a laminate trim router with flush bit to trim veneer flush to spar.



The next task was to prepare the two center wing ribs.
Care is to be taken to make 1 right and 1 left.
A light ply sub rib (W1-A) is to be glued to wing rib (W-1)
Now the sub rib has a somewhat different shape than the rib.
The instructions were not explicit on what edges to line up.
So I took a guess and lined up the top airfoil line and the lower left front corner of sub rib.
You will notice front sub rib and front rib are different angle.
Hope I guessed right. If not it can be fixed.



Next step is to join the 2 spars (2 sets) that will meet at the wing joint. Glued little spacers with supper Glue thick and slow. I happen to be allergic to this stuff so I will only use it when it is most convenient.


The next task was to epoxy 3/16 ply doubler to the back of the 2 landing gear blocks. These are the 2 on the left.
Also two 5/32 ply webs (2 sets) are to be epoxied together. These are wing joiner hardware mounts, 2 on right.


The last of the preliminaries is to drill the holes for the wing joiner hardware. The holes in the edges get tapped
for 4/40 fasteners.



I am primarily a weekend builder. My day job drains me thru the week, so most updates will be weekly.

Next up, I can start assembling the wing. oh joy !!!


Till next time

Kevin

TomCrump

Hi Kevin.

The 1/3 Spacewalker builds into a beautiful model. You should enjoy the build. I really enjoy the Sig craftsmen series kits. You may have a few questions, here and there, but the instructions are great, and the build is straight forward.

I did a build thread when I built mine, if you care to refer to it. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1356049

Tony Hallo

You have a very nice selection of weights for being relatively new. Magnetic building board to boot. Very nice work. Building is fun.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

For any that have never experienced a magnetic building board, I'll tell you that once you've built on one you'll never go back to building with pins again. I've been building with one for over 10 years now and I can't even imagine ever building without it.

As far as the Spacewalker goes, I am eagerly following this build. I can't wait to see you finish out this build. It should be quite a beautiful bird!!! Please keep the pics and posts coming!!!!

Ken

Leroy Gardner

Kevin good to see another one on the boards, great plane, fun build and your starting out pretty good for a rookie I am still building my 1/4 scale on the back end of Vincent's thread and will keep an eye on yours, have fun

Leroy

Melchizedek

Hi Tom,

I am so glad you stopped by.
A few months ago I spent a couple of evenings reading over your build. You were another reason I chose the Spacewalker.
Your plane is beautiful. Those evenings were fun reading your build.

I am interested in trying your modified Rustoleum paint. Your paint job looks fabulous and when you mentioned "cheep" my ears perked.
Was wanting to ask you, how over time it has held up to Gas ?
Could you elaborate on that ?

Thanks,

Kevin

Melchizedek

Hi Tony,

I picked up the lead on ebay about 7 months back. At the time I had no need, but. I like to think ahead. I knew in my heart I would be building more planes. With reading over lots of builds of others, the weights seemed a must if wanting to forgo frustration. Same for the 3 2 1 blocks.

Robert (acerc) turned me on to the magnetic building board. I watched him build his Pits on his. I thought, boy that's the way to go.

Kevin

acerc

Hello Kevin,
You are off to a great start and show some impressive skills for a rookie, a sign you have some smarts. There will be plenty of people subscribing to your thread so don't hold back on anything you may have an issue with or are just not certain about. We all love to pass it along, speaking of, nice to see I helped in your decision to go magnetic. I have subscribed to the thread and will peek in periodically. A word to the wise on those "lead" weights, wrap them with some duck tape, you would be surprised how much you will ingest from incidental contact.

Melchizedek

Ken,

I so appreciate the moral support.
So Glad you plan to come along.

Kevin

Melchizedek

Leroy,

I have been following along on your build and Anthony's build also. Great Stuff.
I have been living vicariously thru you guys.

Robert,
Glad you will be looking in. Have learned very much thru your baby Pitts, and now your Poppa Pitts. Very cool indeed.
Thank you for the heads up on the lead. I will follow your suggestion on the tape. Did not realize. Glad to know.

Thanks,
Kevin

acerc

That's why we are here my friend, to help and/or learn.

Melchizedek

Well, Started to assemble the right wing.

First point of order was to lay down the bottom spare, then to glue ribs into position, except the first one W-1/ W-1A.
Next was to glue the top spar down on the ribs.



I started with the second rib in its designated location. I then used the sheer webs as a spacer for the next rib down the line till the last rib.
My wings will be 1/4 inch shorter than the plans indicate. If I had placed every rib according to plan, all the sheer webs would have been sloppy.



The main reason for this is the 1/8 inch ply is not 1/8. Multiply this shortage 11 times and it comes to 3/16. The other 1/6 is 1/10 of a 1/16 in the length of the sheer webs.
I do not think a 1/4 short on each wing will matter much.



The next up was to set rib W-1. It gets set at 5 degree's for the dihedral.
The rib had a bow in it so I first laid down a straight edge for the bottom edge.
I then spot glued a strong back to the rib to hold it on a straight plane.
The kit included a 5 degree gauge but going the other way of my choice so I cut another.



Next up was to glue 1/4 by 1/4 balsa forward spar on and then 1/8 by 1/2 balsa leading edge on. These went on in two lengths. 12" length on the inboard portion of wing 36" length on the outboard portion.
I am finding that the 3 2 1 blocks are handy as all get out.




Rear spar placement was 12" 1/4 by 1/2 on inboard and 36" out board. First up top spar.



Then the lower rear spar is to be glued in place. Rib W-1 had the strong back over the notch so I couldn't run the spar thru.
So I put a 5 deg angle on spar and butted it up to the strong back and hopefully flush with outside of rib.



I pondered for some time how I was going to clamp this.
The spar is slid in from underneath then raised up in place. I first thought wedges. Then thought to much work.
Then the light bulb went " DING" and wa la.




Well that's it for now. Not much will happen before next weekend, Day job thing.
Till next time,

Kevin

TomCrump

Kevin, Since the Spacewalker build, I have learned a bit more about that additive that I used in the Rustoleum. I've worked with paint most of my adult life, so I hadn't given it much thought, but this additive is not for the casual user. Rustoleum, by itself, provides a suitable finish for our gassers. The additive makes it even better. Precautions must be implemented when using it.

TomCrump

You're doing some nice work on your wings !

VincentJ

Kevin, just found this thread! I have added it to my favorites and now I have another thread to come visit each night! Your skills on what you've accomplished in the past as well as what you are currently doing is quite impressive... Great start, great plane!

4570jackjack

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Melchizedek

Tom,

Thank you for the caution on the paint additive. I will look into it carefully if I go down that road.
Also thanks for your kind words.


VIncent,

What can I say, except.
I will be truly honored to have you along.


Jack Jack,

Welcome

Melchizedek

Greetings,

I didn't sleep well last night. My sinuses were enflamed and hindered good rest.
Why am I telling you about my sinuses you ask ?

Well it all started yesterday morning when I went into the shop. I went over to the shelf to get my razor plane and I couldn't pick it up.
You see, about a month ago I had my iron out putting covering on. My iron touched my supper glue bottle near the top and melted a hole in it.
The bottle was full. The hole was above the contents. So I put the bottle over on the shelf planning to attend to it later. Later never happened.


So some time Saturday evening that bottle got knocked over.




Yep, that's my razor plan with the shelf sticking to the side of it.
That shelf bracket, exacto knife, aluminum squares will have to be chiseled off.



If you look closely at the end of the shelf bracket there is an icicle. It don't stop there.



It pooled on to my work table. That's a piece of sheet rock with a hole in it. Guess what was on that hole.



Yep, My screw gun. There was a hunk of dry wall hanging on it. I took it over to my disk sander and ground it off.
There is a permanent layer of SG on it. That side should wear really well now. Tough as nails
Really, I have to count my blessings. that glue could have poured into the vents of the drill and I would have another weight to build planes with .

That was the long way around the barn to tell you about my nose wasn't it ?
Well, not all of that glue was cured. About 20% was not.
I am allergic to this stuff and it was pretty strong. As well as a huge mess.
But, hey my drill still works.

Kevin

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

And this is why I quit building with with CA years ago!!! I build with wood clue and my lungs, sinuses, and fingertips love me so much more for the decision!!!!

Ken

Melchizedek

Ken,

For all practical purposes so have I. I will keep some around for that special occasion.
Kinda like fine ripple.

Kevin

Melchizedek

Greetings,

When I got up this morning to go to work I heard a tinkling on the window. Got dressed and went outside. Sure enough, freezing rain.
My street was an ice rink. So I got to spend a little time in the shop.

First up was to glue 3/32 x 1 1/2 top trailing edge on.
The trailing edge is to hang over the back of the ribs by 1/4.
So I locked in my 3 2 1 blocks with some mags 1/4 back and glued trailing edge down.



From there it was time to fit the laminated ply blocks for the front wing joiner hardware.
The blocks just needed a little tweeking to fit. They go between the wing spars left and right of the separation point.



Once those were fitted, ply cover plates get fitted over them. they go from bot of bot spar to top of top spar and from rib to rib.
Each bay got a cover sheet. but just 1 pic



When bot bays fit snug as a bug all four pieces were removed for lamination.
Epoxy was used for the lam. The smaller piece is to be spaced 3/8 +- from top and bot edge and flush left to right.
I cut spacer blocks to hold that dem while the epoxy was still a lubricant. Once it gelled, spacer blocks removed and squeeze out cleaned up.



Wile that was drying attention was paid to the rear joiner. This is located at the rear balsa spars.
These spars sit at an angle to one another so the faces the ply plates glue to have to be sanded to a flat plane.
What I did so as not to oversand the soft balsa is shade each face with pencil lead. Then make a sanding stick that
rides on the unshaded without paper and the shaded surface with paper. Sand until the shade goes away then do other edge.



Once the beds were prepped the ply blocks were fitted. These rear blocks are not as beefy as the front.
They were taped in place and then the rear joiner was clamped in place and marked for drilling.
The joiner was set parallel with the table which is in line with wing.
Then everything was removed and mounting holes drilled, wing joiner bolted to plates, reassembled and checked.
The balsa spars had to be notch a little for the blind nuts on the back of the ply. Also blind nut edge ground flush to ply.
After all that, the assembly was epoxied into place.




The bolts on the male section have locking nuts on them. The bolts on the female have thread lock.
Sig says to glue locking rails top bot of male slide to keep it from shifting. I instead hysol'd each member to it corresponding plate.
I know I was taking a risk doing that, for if things end up in a bind then I'm scwooood! On the other hand I was very anal about keeping it all lined up.
Just have to be that anal with its brother.

Till next time,

Kevin

RCKen

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Kevin,
I just noticed that you are from Missouri. What part are you in??

Ken

StAndBl

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Melchizedek

Ken,
I am in St. Peters, It is a sub-burb of St. Louis. About 25 miles west from St. Louis city down interstate 70.


Welcome, StandBi

Kevin