G&L 1/5 DHC chipmunk - diary of a build.
06-06-2014, 03:52 PM
#51
Got the gear blocks done. This will be for the Robart 5/8" struts.
Simple just like the first chippy but much easier to make and they are 5/8" instead of 1/4". The first ones held up very well.
I will cut out the area for the gear and install the ply brasses. I wont install the gear until I join the wing.
This should work out great for a 22lb plane.
Next
TB
Simple just like the first chippy but much easier to make and they are 5/8" instead of 1/4". The first ones held up very well.
I will cut out the area for the gear and install the ply brasses. I wont install the gear until I join the wing.
This should work out great for a 22lb plane.
Next
TB
06-07-2014, 07:14 AM
#53
Started work on the wing. This time I am doing both at the same time.
I cut in the landing gear blocks and will use a spar like on the first chippy. I will use 1/4" micro lite ply.
The side walls will be 1/4" Micro lite ply also. Once the wing is sheeted and joined I will glue in the gear block onto the sides of the gear well. This way I can get the angle just right.
The trench for the servo wires is cut and I will see what I want to do to line it, May just like it with 1/16" balsa. Last time I just caped it with balsa and when I sheeted the wing some of the gorilla glue got in and made is a pin to feed the wires.
Servo bays are cut. This time I cut them all the way in and when I sheet the wing that will be the floor of the servo bay.
So the wing is ready to install the facing in, I need to go to the HS to get some wood. I should have the wing done and ready to sheet by today.
TB
I cut in the landing gear blocks and will use a spar like on the first chippy. I will use 1/4" micro lite ply.
The side walls will be 1/4" Micro lite ply also. Once the wing is sheeted and joined I will glue in the gear block onto the sides of the gear well. This way I can get the angle just right.
The trench for the servo wires is cut and I will see what I want to do to line it, May just like it with 1/16" balsa. Last time I just caped it with balsa and when I sheeted the wing some of the gorilla glue got in and made is a pin to feed the wires.
Servo bays are cut. This time I cut them all the way in and when I sheet the wing that will be the floor of the servo bay.
So the wing is ready to install the facing in, I need to go to the HS to get some wood. I should have the wing done and ready to sheet by today.
TB
06-07-2014, 10:54 AM
#54
I have all the facing glued into the left wing. I am using Gorilla glue. I love using this stuff on foam wings, it fills all the gaps and works its way into the foam. Plus you don't have to mix it. I use a small brush and apply it to the surface I am gluing.
I was so excited to get working on this wing I forgot to mask off the area with blue tape, makes cleanup a lot easer.
I will mask this off and sand it all nice and flush when the glue dries.
I used 1/4" Micro-Lite, love this stuff.
The servo bays get 1/8" Micro-Lite ply. Note I did mask off the area firs
The gorilla glue needs to dry before I can sand or remove the shoring. So even though there is not much to this the dry time is much longer then epoxy and CA.
TB
I was so excited to get working on this wing I forgot to mask off the area with blue tape, makes cleanup a lot easer.
I will mask this off and sand it all nice and flush when the glue dries.
I used 1/4" Micro-Lite, love this stuff.
The servo bays get 1/8" Micro-Lite ply. Note I did mask off the area firs
The gorilla glue needs to dry before I can sand or remove the shoring. So even though there is not much to this the dry time is much longer then epoxy and CA.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 06-07-2014 at 10:58 AM.
06-07-2014, 03:29 PM
#55
The left wing is all done and ready to sheet.
The servo trench/ channel came out good and I can fit a servo end threw the flap bay with easy. There will only be one wire from the aileron bay to the flap bay and I will solder a long wier to it.
The servo bays are cut all the way threw. On the first one they were conventionally installed with the linkage outside. Now the linkage will all be concealed so I needed deep bays.
The gear bays will get mounting blocks once the wing is sheeted.
Nice thing about foam core wings, you can do a wing half in one day, cant do that with a built up wing
I will do the right wing tomorrow and then wait for my wood to get here. Sheeting is easy, just takes time as I can only do one half at a time.
TB
The servo trench/ channel came out good and I can fit a servo end threw the flap bay with easy. There will only be one wire from the aileron bay to the flap bay and I will solder a long wier to it.
The servo bays are cut all the way threw. On the first one they were conventionally installed with the linkage outside. Now the linkage will all be concealed so I needed deep bays.
The gear bays will get mounting blocks once the wing is sheeted.
Nice thing about foam core wings, you can do a wing half in one day, cant do that with a built up wing
I will do the right wing tomorrow and then wait for my wood to get here. Sheeting is easy, just takes time as I can only do one half at a time.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 06-07-2014 at 03:44 PM.
06-08-2014, 05:28 AM
#59
So I have been working on the elevator and ruder torque rods. On the first chippy they failed so I want a sure fire way this time.
This is what I got now. Being the elevator will be similar to my P-47 I will be using a 3/8" carbon fiber rod with a wood dowel glued inside it.
I drilled out some old aluminum servo arms I am not using (Futaba) and they fit nice and tight. I will glue them in with epoxy and pin it with a solid steel pin all the way threw.
Here is the elevator horn. I will use either a ball link or a heavy duty clevis.
The rods that will go into the elevator halves will be the same and I will glue and bolt extensions to them using G-10, then glue them into the elevators.
For the ruder this is what I got so fare, 3/16" carbon tube with plastic servo horns that will be glued and pined. The horn for the ruder will get a G-10 extension too. The 3/16" tube will be the pin sleeve too.
I really like the elevator rod and feel it is solid and will not fail. I am on the fence with the ruder and will keep working on that, maybe a aluminum arm for the ruder and keep the plastic for the pull pull.
TB
This is what I got now. Being the elevator will be similar to my P-47 I will be using a 3/8" carbon fiber rod with a wood dowel glued inside it.
I drilled out some old aluminum servo arms I am not using (Futaba) and they fit nice and tight. I will glue them in with epoxy and pin it with a solid steel pin all the way threw.
Here is the elevator horn. I will use either a ball link or a heavy duty clevis.
The rods that will go into the elevator halves will be the same and I will glue and bolt extensions to them using G-10, then glue them into the elevators.
For the ruder this is what I got so fare, 3/16" carbon tube with plastic servo horns that will be glued and pined. The horn for the ruder will get a G-10 extension too. The 3/16" tube will be the pin sleeve too.
I really like the elevator rod and feel it is solid and will not fail. I am on the fence with the ruder and will keep working on that, maybe a aluminum arm for the ruder and keep the plastic for the pull pull.
TB
06-08-2014, 02:58 PM
#62
Here are some pics from the first chippy. The design is solid, but the linkages were flawed and failed.
The ruder will be linked like this but with the improved carbon fiber tube and pined arms.
Theruder will be the same but soldered steel for the pull-pull arm.
The elevator is a totally new design over this failed setup. One offset 4-40 in a carbon fiber tube will be used.
TB
The ruder will be linked like this but with the improved carbon fiber tube and pined arms.
Theruder will be the same but soldered steel for the pull-pull arm.
The elevator is a totally new design over this failed setup. One offset 4-40 in a carbon fiber tube will be used.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 06-08-2014 at 03:03 PM.
06-09-2014, 03:57 AM
#63
So I am considering making the chipmunk a military scheme.
I like the thought of keeping it in the "warbird" class.
Here are some schemes.
I like this one, always wanted a black plane.
Note the landing lights on the fixed gear
I like the silver one too.
Just something to think about.
TB
I like the thought of keeping it in the "warbird" class.
Here are some schemes.
I like this one, always wanted a black plane.
Note the landing lights on the fixed gear
I like the silver one too.
Just something to think about.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 06-09-2014 at 04:02 AM.
06-09-2014, 06:28 AM
#64
Ok, I'm hooked, warbird it is. There are so many cool schemes and ideas. I just like the look better then a full blown super chipmunk. I am more partial to warbirds anyway so it is a done deal. I think I will do the bubble canopy but I can get a trainer canopy from FS if I want to go that way. I have already planted the seed with Chad for some cockpit details
Sliding canopy, landing lights?
Here are some more beauties.
This one is cool and Amy could do this even better
These are cool too. Very colorful!
With the bubble canopy.
More color.
TB
Sliding canopy, landing lights?
Here are some more beauties.
This one is cool and Amy could do this even better
These are cool too. Very colorful!
With the bubble canopy.
More color.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 06-09-2014 at 06:41 AM.
06-09-2014, 07:06 AM
#66
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Missouri
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How about the first one with, thinking about invasion stripes. It looks kind of sinister. Then complete the sinister look with the chipmonk with rabbies look of the yellow one.
Just my 2 cents
Kevin
Just my 2 cents
Kevin
06-09-2014, 09:49 AM
#70
Right wing facing is all glued in and drying. This will finish the wing and once I sand it, it will be ready to sheet. I am considering making a pocket in the right wings LE for the wing cam. We will see.
This time I remembered to mask everything off first
The Gorilla glue is doing its thing. This should all be dried by late this afternoon for sanding. I will start working on the tail feathers next.
TB
This time I remembered to mask everything off first
The Gorilla glue is doing its thing. This should all be dried by late this afternoon for sanding. I will start working on the tail feathers next.
TB
06-09-2014, 12:13 PM
#71
The right wing is all done and sanded.
I pay great attention to the top surfaces to insure they remain pristine.
Blue tape is used for the initial sanding so I can really lay into it. Foam is much harder to sand then balsa so once I remove the tape I do another sanding to get it all nice and smooth.
Everything looks good and is ready for the skins, once they get here!
Next I started on the stab. The husks are important to skinning the foam core.
On this stab the two halves don't line up and some may do them separately like the wings then join the halves after they are skinned. I like to join them now and skin them as a whole, stronger this way.
So the two halves are off by an 1/8" so I shim one side then glue the bottom husk together.
After that dries I glue the stab core and the top husk together. I use wax paper between to protect. I use epoxy to glue this.
I am off to HD to get some supplies so I can glue the skins to the stab tonight. I like to let them dry over night before I cut the elevators free.
TB
I pay great attention to the top surfaces to insure they remain pristine.
Blue tape is used for the initial sanding so I can really lay into it. Foam is much harder to sand then balsa so once I remove the tape I do another sanding to get it all nice and smooth.
Everything looks good and is ready for the skins, once they get here!
Next I started on the stab. The husks are important to skinning the foam core.
On this stab the two halves don't line up and some may do them separately like the wings then join the halves after they are skinned. I like to join them now and skin them as a whole, stronger this way.
So the two halves are off by an 1/8" so I shim one side then glue the bottom husk together.
After that dries I glue the stab core and the top husk together. I use wax paper between to protect. I use epoxy to glue this.
I am off to HD to get some supplies so I can glue the skins to the stab tonight. I like to let them dry over night before I cut the elevators free.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 06-09-2014 at 12:18 PM.
06-09-2014, 04:23 PM
#73
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Tony, I have a question on the foam wings.
Would you mind listing the pluses and minuses of a foam wing as apposed to a built up one.
Not ever having done foam im curious. I see they are faster but what are the other comparisons ?
Also, do you have a preference ?
Thanks,
Kevin
Would you mind listing the pluses and minuses of a foam wing as apposed to a built up one.
Not ever having done foam im curious. I see they are faster but what are the other comparisons ?
Also, do you have a preference ?
Thanks,
Kevin
06-09-2014, 07:32 PM
#74
Tony, I have a question on the foam wings.
Would you mind listing the pluses and minuses of a foam wing as apposed to a built up one.
Not ever having done foam im curious. I see they are faster but what are the other comparisons ?
Also, do you have a preference ?
Thanks,
Kevin
Would you mind listing the pluses and minuses of a foam wing as apposed to a built up one.
Not ever having done foam im curious. I see they are faster but what are the other comparisons ?
Also, do you have a preference ?
Thanks,
Kevin
1. It is very easy and quick to build. You could literally build a wing in one day, sheeted and all. You can't do that with built up.
2. Control surfaces are easyer and faster to do.
3. Very durable during construction/ sanding.
4. Very strong and durable, not going to punch a hole threw it.
5. Foam builds very strait and trew, holds it's shape.
6. Light weight in construction.
These are just a few advantages.
Limitstions would be wings with wash and warpage are hard to manufacture (cut).
Hard to use in complicated wing designs like a corsair wing.
I like this this kit becouse it is a very quick build with endless possibility in scale detail.
TB
06-10-2014, 02:13 AM
#75
I ordered a new trainer cowl and canopy From fiberglass specialties.
[TABLE="class: yiv6133023390MsoNormalTable, width: 564"]
[TR]
[TD="width: 117"]ORC-7C
[/TD]
[TD="width: 341"]Chipmunk Trainer, canopy
[/TD]
[TD="width: 53"]
[/TD]
[TD="width: 45"]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[TABLE="class: yiv6133023390MsoNormalTable, width: 564"]
[TR]
[TD="width: 117"]ORC-7
[/TD]
[TD="width: 341"]Chipmunk Trainer, 81" 1/5 scale, cowl
[/TD]
[TD="width: 53"]
[/TD]
[TD="width: 45"]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
ORC-7 measures approximately 6 ¼” wide by 8 ¼” high by 10” long.
The cowl is identical to the one I have in size. I was able to sell the one I have to a flying buddy (he has my first built chippy)
ORC-7C measures approximately 17 ¾” long by 6” wide by 5 ¾” high.
This will fit nicely.
I am only doing a half deck cockpit, instrument panels and pilots so no sliding canopy on this QB chipmunk.
TB
[TABLE="class: yiv6133023390MsoNormalTable, width: 564"]
[TR]
[TD="width: 117"]ORC-7C
[/TD]
[TD="width: 341"]Chipmunk Trainer, canopy
[/TD]
[TD="width: 53"]
$30.00
[TD="width: 45"]
[ ]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[TABLE="class: yiv6133023390MsoNormalTable, width: 564"]
[TR]
[TD="width: 117"]ORC-7
[/TD]
[TD="width: 341"]Chipmunk Trainer, 81" 1/5 scale, cowl
[/TD]
[TD="width: 53"]
$40.00
[TD="width: 45"]
[ ]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
ORC-7 measures approximately 6 ¼” wide by 8 ¼” high by 10” long.
The cowl is identical to the one I have in size. I was able to sell the one I have to a flying buddy (he has my first built chippy)
ORC-7C measures approximately 17 ¾” long by 6” wide by 5 ¾” high.
This will fit nicely.
I am only doing a half deck cockpit, instrument panels and pilots so no sliding canopy on this QB chipmunk.
TB