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BUSA QS Sopwith Camel

Old 11-20-2014, 02:07 PM
  #26  
R/C Art
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It isn't so incidental at that many bottles, is it!?

What I have done on the past couple of builds is supplement the build with Titebond or Gorilla glue. They are good quality carpenter's glue and they both tack rather quickly..............
AND a bottle costs about the same as a single 2 oz of CA. So a couple bottles of CA and one bottle of carpenter's glue can easily complete one build and reduce costs!

And for what its worth, you might consider that you are using more CA than necessary for each glue joint. I know that I do, even when I am trying to use just enough to get the job done - when I look back, yep you guessed it, I find that I had used too much.

Thanks for putting up this build thread - I am enjoying it.

Cheers,
Art
Old 11-20-2014, 03:18 PM
  #27  
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I stop using CA glue 5 years ago, I can build 2 planes with one bottle of gorilla glue and have some left over.
Old 11-20-2014, 03:37 PM
  #28  
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I have never checked out this comment but I read in a build thread that wood glue - Titebond or Gorilla is much heavier than CA so many don't use it on planes where weight is critical. I think on a 1/3 or 1/4 or 1/5 scale it probably won't make a difference.

Keith
Old 11-20-2014, 05:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Corsair2013 View Post
I have never checked out this comment but I read in a build thread that wood glue - Titebond or Gorilla is much heavier than CA so many don't use it on planes where weight is critical. I think on a 1/3 or 1/4 or 1/5 scale it probably won't make a difference.

Keith
Keith, you are correct. But the key here again is to only use what is needed and no more.......neatness counts where excess glue is concerned.
I always keep a wet paper towel and wipe away all unnecessary glue. I would think that the actual weight difference would only be an important factor in smaller planes, like half A and smaller. Lighter is always better in any scale, but the glue usually isn't much of a factor in the large scales.
Old 11-20-2014, 08:11 PM
  #30  
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I buy my CA from Wood Workers Emporium, about $20.00 for an 8 ounce bottle and unlike hobby or craft stores it's always fresh, it doesn't stay on the counter very long. I get Sigment from Hobby Town. The other wood glues I get from my wood working club, they buy it by the gallon and when the bottle is what they call empty I let drain into my small bottle, free is good. What I can't find at a good price is epoxy?
Good build, I'm enjoying it.
Old 11-21-2014, 03:38 AM
  #31  
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That is one advantage of Tite bond. A 5 dollar bottle will go a long way. Of course the big downfall is the drying time. But after work my butt is dragging. So gluing a few parts together day by day works for me.
Fred
Old 11-21-2014, 06:46 AM
  #32  
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Have you picked out color scheme yet????
Old 11-21-2014, 08:29 AM
  #33  
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Yes, I found this on line.

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Old 11-21-2014, 08:59 AM
  #34  
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I looked at Wood Workers Emporium on line and didnt see $20 for 8 ounce bottle. Maybe wrong guys.
Old 11-21-2014, 09:42 AM
  #35  
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Maybe it is something that is stocked by my local store only? Hobby People also sells it in 8 ounce bottles. That is where I bought it before I joined a wood workers club.
Originally Posted by Karp050555 View Post
I looked at Wood Workers Emporium on line and didnt see $20 for 8 ounce bottle. Maybe wrong guys.
Old 11-21-2014, 11:48 AM
  #36  
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$20 will get you a GALLON of titebond 2 ! hahahah
Old 11-21-2014, 01:43 PM
  #37  
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[ATTACH]2049140[/IMG] Here is one I found Gives all the viewsFlown by 2Lt L.G. Nixon
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camel .pdf (537.6 KB, 62 views)
Old 11-22-2014, 02:54 PM
  #38  
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It's Saturday November 22, 2014 at 5:11 pm and time for the Weekend Wapup!

First, let's talk about tools. When I started building in earnest my building board consisted of the door from the nursery which was no longer being used for that purpose. My modeling tools were wrenches and screwdrivers that I used about the house and on the family rolling junk mobile. I had a wood ruler and did most of my cutting with either single edge razor blades, a box cutter, or a steak knife. Some things haven't changed. I'm building on a closet door and using that same wooden ruler but I have made major upgrades in my tools. In the garage there is a 16" scroll saw, a bench grinder, a band saw, and a drill press. If you're really serious about building I think a scroll saw and a drill press are must haves. They make life so much easier when cutting out intricate parts or drilling propellors. A cordless Dremel and drill are worth their weight in gold. But, my new found buddy during this build is my Xona saw that I got from BUSA. It has three blades and makes nice clean cuts. It's not a replacement for an Xacto but is a nice complement. Go take a walk around Harbor Freight and see what would look good in your work shop. Don't be a cheapskate and let those moths out of your wallet. On to the build.

Todays mess du joir was to build the horizontal stabilizer. I tried following the instructions and quickly got confused as to what I was supposed to be doing which is not really hard to do for me. With all the cap stripping that's going on, I figured out the stabilizer would end up being 3/8" thick so I laid out the LE and TE's of both the stab and elevator halves (everything propped on 1/16" scrap because they said to), fashioned ribs out of 1/8 x 1/4 balsa and laid them in place, and filled the center section with a 1/4" piece of balsa. I was going to make the edges out of 1/4" balsa pieces when I thought to myself "let's try their way first". There is a piece of 1/8" ply shaped like the stab with a drop out of an elevator half. I pinned them down on top of some wax paper, soaked up the 1/4 x 1/16 cap stripping and began glueing and bending. Believe it or not it actually worked out ok. I only made the tips and trailing edges in this fashion but I could have made the whole circumference's of my parts in this fashion. The only drawback is that's alot of glue. I made the right tip in three pieces then fit it into place while the left one was made as one piece then fit it into place. I think the left one looks better but both will be equally strong. BTW, the vertical stab is made by glueing cap strips around a plywood blank so I'll let you know how that turns out on Monday. While working today I thought it would have been nice to have a wallpaper tray for soaking the cap strips. For those of you who have never done wallpapering, wall paper usually comes pre-pasted, you cut it to size, soak it in a tray that's about 24 to 36" long and looks like the valve cover from a straight inline 6 cylinder engine, then apply it on the wall and smooth it out. These trays are usually made from thin plastic, can be had from any home improvement or paint store, and are generally cheap. It beats soaking wood in a bucket!

Well kiddies, the pain medication is starting to kick in (vodka Manhattans today) so it's time to go watch TV (Svenghoulie is on tonight) and peel the glue from my fingers. So remember if you don't bleed at least once while you're building, you're not learning! The sermon is ended: Glue In Peace!

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Old 11-24-2014, 03:09 PM
  #39  
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Hi Kiddies, It's only 3 more days until Eat Yourself Into Your Next Heart Attack Day (aka Thanksgiving Day). I'll be watching the MST 3K Marathon and drinking large quantities of beer. On to the build.
Photo #1 shows the plans for the stab and #3 shows the finished product. I made the center section solid with 1/4 balsa sheeted with 1/16 balsa. Photo #2 shows the 1/4 balsa grain runs fore and aft while the 1/16 sheeted over it runs side to side. I know they keep harping on about the tail and keeping it light but if you've ever had a stab break in flight you know it's the end of the airplane. Besides, I'm mounting a very heavy 38cc gas four stroke on the front of this puppy so I really don't think I'll have a balance problem. Photo #4 show a used #11 blade that's dull and covered with glue AND DANGEROUS! For the newbies: Don't be cheap and change your blades often. A dull blade will get stuck, you'll push a little too hard, the knife will fly, and you'll end up with a nasty cut. Us old guys like to sit around and compare our scars. Aren't we exciting? Photo #5 shows the plans for the vertical stab and rudder and #6 shows where I've bent the wet capping strips around the plywood template to make the leading and trailing edges. It's really not that hard to do and it produces a nice looking edge on your surface. I'll build the rudder and stab over the plans tomorrow. Can't wait, can you? And, last but not least, is Photo #7 which is my glue supply. I looked around (including my local hobby store) and the best price @ $5.99 a bottle was Mother Tower Hobbies! Also, since I bought in quantity, I got $15 off my order and free shipping. I now have 15 bottles of medium CA in the 2 ounce size. I think I might have enough for the building season.
So, it's time to go drink some more beer, eat dinner, and spend the evening watching mind numbing sitcoms. Yay! The sermon is ended. Glue In Peace!
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Old 11-24-2014, 07:00 PM
  #40  
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I buy CA in the 8 oz bottle from Bob Smith. I order it thru my LHS, the bottle is $20, and I re-use 2 oz bottles that I've used up before. There is a savings to be had using in bulk, and considering my last plane used just about every bit of an 8 oz bottle, it was nice to have it if I ran short and the LHS was closed. With your $15 off, you're paying almost exactally what I pay per oz, so good on ya.

You are storing your unused glue in the Fridge, right? Keeping CA cold slows down any reactions that occur and extends the life of the glue.
Old 11-24-2014, 08:06 PM
  #41  
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I keep it in the freezer and have never had it go bad.
Old 11-24-2014, 08:16 PM
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Freezer or fridge?
Old 11-24-2014, 10:42 PM
  #43  
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freezer, It doesn't freeze but it keeps forever.
Old 11-25-2014, 09:46 AM
  #44  
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Nice tip - thanks.

K
Old 11-25-2014, 10:04 AM
  #45  
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Just don't allow an open bottle to tip over, yes, it happened. It stays liquid until you hit it with a paper towel then it activates. Then you wife gets into the act, something about the paper that is stuck all over the inside of the freezer?? That comes off with acetone though.
I also don't use the straight point Exacto blades, they don't hold an edge. I found the chiseled pointed blades to be way better. I pull a new blade and sharpen it on a stone then use my home made strop on them. Now you have a blade that is much sharper then new. As the blade dulls I just hit it on the strop again. I had two blades last for several builds without having to replace them. These blades are also used when covering. As soon as the blade snags a little on the covering it goes on the strop. Only about 6 or 8 swipes on each side.
OK, enough tips, I don't want to pirate this build thread.
Old 11-25-2014, 11:23 AM
  #46  
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Nice assist, Graybeard. Thank you.

Before we go into the build, let's talk about our safety tip for the newbies which again is CA glue. CA has a unique property in that even after it has dried, it can give of noxious fumes if heated in any way and that includes friction. If you sand over a glue joint (by hand or power) or cut through a glue joint with a saw or your Dremel, the heat produced by the friction can cause the dried off glue to heat up and give off CA gas which, as I said before, is noxious (a laymens term for bad for you). And, usually your face is right over where you're working so you get a nice big lungfull. Be careful. BTW, the glue I got yesterday is medium and I really needed gap filling. Time to order the right stuff and send back the wrong. One other rant and we'll move on and that's about a schedule. I have a goal to fly this plane on New Years Day. That means I have to gauge my progress to make sure I'm on track. It's ok to say "I'll work on it when I can" but that usually ends up being either years or never. A deadline keeps your butt in gear but make sure it's realistic. I started a plane once on a Monday and flew it on Saturday. From Monday to Friday I worked every waking hour on that plane. The wife was not amused. Now on to the build.



Photo #1 shows the plans for the vertical stab and rudder which is primarily built out of 1/4 x 1/16 capping wood for the outer perimiter, 1/4 x 1/8 balsa for the ribs, 1/4 x 1/2 balsa for the TE of the stab and the LE of the rudder. There is a plywood form (photo #2) which is wrapped with 5 pieces of 1/4 x 1/16 x 36 capping wood that has been soaked in hot water for about 20 minutes (or 4 songs on the I-Pad) and laminated together one at a time. When it's dry, you end up with a perimiter shell that you pin over the plans and glue all the other stuff into place. It's actually easier than cutting pieces of 1/4 x 3/8 balsa to match the shape and you get an added bonus of peeling the ca glue off that you got all over your hands at the end of the day. Yay! BTW, the 1/4 x 1/8 ribs have cap strips attached to them that extend all the way out to the edge of the surface. When everything get sanded and the edges get rounded, it'll make it look like there are actual ribs inside instead of just having a flat surface like most models have. This same idea is used on the wings and the horizontal stab. You don't have to do this but it may be the difference in someone saying "WOW" instead of "that's nice".

Glue on, my young Padowans!
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Old 11-26-2014, 08:47 AM
  #47  
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Looking good Karp - please show a picture of it after it is sanded. I like the detail of the ribs.

Keith
Old 11-26-2014, 09:49 AM
  #48  
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Okeyday. I just took this picture. I'll give it a light sanding before it gets covered.

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Old 11-27-2014, 05:43 PM
  #49  
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I started the fuselage today (I glued two parts together and pinned them to the board). I need to cap strip the lower wing but that's cosmetic so I'll do that before covering. Most BUSA QS kits are designed around a G-26 for the power and weight. I did a little research and found out the NGH 38cc gas four stroke I'm going to use on this plane weighs a couple of ounces more than a G-26 but costs less (based on Horizon Hobby prices). I'm not endorsing anything and you can use anything you want but I do love that four stroke sound!

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=62689
Old 11-28-2014, 08:37 AM
  #50  
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Agape racing and hobby sells those engines and there located in Mechanicsville VA.

http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/v...php?groupid=44

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