Laser Design Services Crusader 2 build
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Laser Design Services Crusader 2 build
Merry Christmas everyone, I hope Santa was nice to you.
I got realflight 7.5 what a hoot, to fly it like I stole it! Last year I got a Laser Design Services Crusader 2 short kit and I am going to attempt a build thread while putting it together. I am hoping for help on this project as to me the instructions are not what I am used to(no pictures)
Ok I opened it up and had a look at the wood, all looks good with the exception of the firewall which seems to have moved while being cut. Not a biggie as I think I can just flip one piece over when I glue them together, or cut a new one.
I got realflight 7.5 what a hoot, to fly it like I stole it! Last year I got a Laser Design Services Crusader 2 short kit and I am going to attempt a build thread while putting it together. I am hoping for help on this project as to me the instructions are not what I am used to(no pictures)
Ok I opened it up and had a look at the wood, all looks good with the exception of the firewall which seems to have moved while being cut. Not a biggie as I think I can just flip one piece over when I glue them together, or cut a new one.
#3
My Feedback: (11)
That looks like a fun build! I'll be following along as I have two LDS kits in progress right now. You do have to really think through what they want you to achieve, because the plans don't really give you the full picture. The instructions for this one do look pretty good though.
#4
I just received my Crusader II short kit yesterday but I have a couple other projects ahead of it. I did as much research on it as I could and I think I found only one blog about the build and it doesn't seem to run well on my Chrome browser. But if you want the link I will give it. I have a Novarossi .50 I wanted to put in mine but looking at the plans it is a bit smaller than I thought. It calls for a .40 and I think a small .40 at that. I might have o get a Jett .36 or something else to make it fit. I would hate to try to shoehorn the .50 in. What engine are you planning to use?
And Merry Christmas too.
And Merry Christmas too.
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Jeff, Wingnut. Which kits did you order Jeff? I am not sure what I am going to put into it for a motor yet Wingnut, maybe a OS46, not sure yet. not even sure about the retracts, I may figure out a way to make it a belly lander. Merry Christmas
Calvi
Calvi
#6
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Calvinman,
I'll be watching your thread with interest and wish you well. I started building a Crusader some years ago but it's currently 'resting' until it reaches the front of my build que again.
If you google 'rcm crusader' and click images you'll find the original RCM article complete with photos which are very useful for the build.
They are from pulling-gz.blogspot.co.nz There's also a thread on 'groups' (vintage section, RCM plans for free or similar) the article is in there.
This link http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...eview-pix.html was replied to by both Steven Elzey (the designer) and his wife? I don't know if they are still active on the forum, but they may respond to questions.
I love the design, and I understand it flies very well, I was planning a couple of small changes though;
I made the fin and subfin built up with a balsa frame and 1/16 skins, the frame includes a spar that slides into the subfin when assembled to lock them together. Lighter and stronger I hope.
I extended the subfin aft a small amount to match the fin and rudder above.
I am going to use a magic muffler which is shorter than the tuned pipe, which means the pipe tunnel can be shorter. The last two mods might help yaw stability slightly.
The shorter pipe would allow me to shift the nose gear aft and have it retract forward. I may or may not do that, it would look cool though.
I kept the fuselage full height forward to the bulkhead that supports the canard and the nose gear, then sloped it down to the existing nose from there. I think this gives the model more of a 'fighter' look (F 16 or A 10 maybe) rather than the sort of bomber look it has as drawn (it reminds me of the XB 70 a bit).
I've got an outline drawing of the model (plan view and top view) somewhere, I'll post them here when I find them. They might be useful to print out and use to plan colour schemes.
Best of luck with your build,
Dave H
I'll be watching your thread with interest and wish you well. I started building a Crusader some years ago but it's currently 'resting' until it reaches the front of my build que again.
If you google 'rcm crusader' and click images you'll find the original RCM article complete with photos which are very useful for the build.
They are from pulling-gz.blogspot.co.nz There's also a thread on 'groups' (vintage section, RCM plans for free or similar) the article is in there.
This link http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...eview-pix.html was replied to by both Steven Elzey (the designer) and his wife? I don't know if they are still active on the forum, but they may respond to questions.
I love the design, and I understand it flies very well, I was planning a couple of small changes though;
I made the fin and subfin built up with a balsa frame and 1/16 skins, the frame includes a spar that slides into the subfin when assembled to lock them together. Lighter and stronger I hope.
I extended the subfin aft a small amount to match the fin and rudder above.
I am going to use a magic muffler which is shorter than the tuned pipe, which means the pipe tunnel can be shorter. The last two mods might help yaw stability slightly.
The shorter pipe would allow me to shift the nose gear aft and have it retract forward. I may or may not do that, it would look cool though.
I kept the fuselage full height forward to the bulkhead that supports the canard and the nose gear, then sloped it down to the existing nose from there. I think this gives the model more of a 'fighter' look (F 16 or A 10 maybe) rather than the sort of bomber look it has as drawn (it reminds me of the XB 70 a bit).
I've got an outline drawing of the model (plan view and top view) somewhere, I'll post them here when I find them. They might be useful to print out and use to plan colour schemes.
Best of luck with your build,
Dave H
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Dave, nice to hear from you, I can use all the help I can get with this project. The pictures that go along with the article are just what I needed. Looking forward to seeing your drawings if you find them.
Calvi
Calvi
#8
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No pressure then? I'll try and find them tomorrow for you.
You should get plenty of help here, not that you'll need it, there's nothing too tricky in the model. If you spend a bit of time studying the plans and photos it will make sense to you.
Cheers,
Dave H
You should get plenty of help here, not that you'll need it, there's nothing too tricky in the model. If you spend a bit of time studying the plans and photos it will make sense to you.
Cheers,
Dave H
#10
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Calvi,
Hopefully those sketches I promised you are here.
I forgot that I had also considered adding tip sails/fins to my model. Mainly as a cosmetic mod but I was also concerned that the nose mod I was considering might affect the directional stability of the model (canards often suffer from low yaw stability due to the short fin moment, hence the large twin fins of the Crusader). The shorter pipe tunnel (not shown), the slightly bigger sub fin, and the tip fins would hopefully balance out the larger/higher canopy. They would be a bit vulnerable though.
Anyway here are the sketches for what they are worth.
Dave H
Hopefully those sketches I promised you are here.
I forgot that I had also considered adding tip sails/fins to my model. Mainly as a cosmetic mod but I was also concerned that the nose mod I was considering might affect the directional stability of the model (canards often suffer from low yaw stability due to the short fin moment, hence the large twin fins of the Crusader). The shorter pipe tunnel (not shown), the slightly bigger sub fin, and the tip fins would hopefully balance out the larger/higher canopy. They would be a bit vulnerable though.
Anyway here are the sketches for what they are worth.
Dave H
Last edited by gerryndennis; 12-29-2014 at 12:51 AM.
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another RCM plan I would like to try is the javelin which is another delta canard, but alas it seems plans are no longer available from RCM. I have a picture of it on my computer at home I will post it later.
not a very big picture, but all I have
not a very big picture, but all I have
Last edited by Calvinman; 12-30-2014 at 10:40 AM. Reason: added picture
#13
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Dave, not sure what to say about doing the retracts, I may just make it a hand launcher for version one, if I really like the way it flies version 2 will have to have some retracts. Not sure if I use a three blade pusher If that will give me enough ground clearance to be able to belly land or not.
Calvi
Calvi
#15
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I guess hand launching would be doable?
The model strikes me as being a bit on the too fast/heavy side of the hand launch spectrum, and I'd be a bit worried about the spinny, bity thing at the back hitting my hand. I'd also worry about knocking off the subfins on landing. Maybe you could leave them off and strengthen the pipe tunnel to take the landing loads?
I wonder if fixed wire gear would be a better option if you don't mind bending your own? I know it won't look that great in the air, but might be more practical and reasonably easy.
You could mount fixed wire gear in the same spot as the retracts would be, maybe even put the retract mounts in, then fit the fixed gear to the retract mount. This would allow you to fit the retracts at a later date.
A bent aluminium gear mounted under the fuselage above the pipe tunnel with a wire nose gear would look OK too.
If you decide to go the retract route at some stage I'm sure it would be possible to make modern retract gear work by mounting it as far forward in the wing as possible and bending a new wire leg with some forward rake in it.
I see that Goldberg gear turns up on the auction sites every now and then, and is quite cheap, you might pick up a set if you are lucky. The model is designed using the nose gear and the twin gear (tail wheel aircraft) units, but I suspect the trike gear could be used by converting the mains to twin gear configuration. The gear legs used to be available seperately if you can find them, or perhaps you could bend your own.
Either way I'm sure you'll come up with a workable solution.
All the best for the New Year,
Dave H
The model strikes me as being a bit on the too fast/heavy side of the hand launch spectrum, and I'd be a bit worried about the spinny, bity thing at the back hitting my hand. I'd also worry about knocking off the subfins on landing. Maybe you could leave them off and strengthen the pipe tunnel to take the landing loads?
I wonder if fixed wire gear would be a better option if you don't mind bending your own? I know it won't look that great in the air, but might be more practical and reasonably easy.
You could mount fixed wire gear in the same spot as the retracts would be, maybe even put the retract mounts in, then fit the fixed gear to the retract mount. This would allow you to fit the retracts at a later date.
A bent aluminium gear mounted under the fuselage above the pipe tunnel with a wire nose gear would look OK too.
If you decide to go the retract route at some stage I'm sure it would be possible to make modern retract gear work by mounting it as far forward in the wing as possible and bending a new wire leg with some forward rake in it.
I see that Goldberg gear turns up on the auction sites every now and then, and is quite cheap, you might pick up a set if you are lucky. The model is designed using the nose gear and the twin gear (tail wheel aircraft) units, but I suspect the trike gear could be used by converting the mains to twin gear configuration. The gear legs used to be available seperately if you can find them, or perhaps you could bend your own.
Either way I'm sure you'll come up with a workable solution.
All the best for the New Year,
Dave H
Last edited by gerryndennis; 12-30-2014 at 07:48 PM. Reason: reinserting disappearing paragraph breaks
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I like your idea of making the mounts for retracts or wire that way if the aircrafts belly is too soft for the hand launching I will still have options. I agree about the finger eater being at the back of the plane being in a bad place, I was thinking of trying to launch it like I have seen in videos by holding it by the wing and swinging it, but with my lack of coordination that may end up in spectators being hurt LOL
#17
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I like your idea of making the mounts for retracts or wire that way if the aircrafts belly is too soft for the hand launching I will still have options. I agree about the finger eater being at the back of the plane being in a bad place, I was thinking of trying to launch it like I have seen in videos by holding it by the wing and swinging it, but with my lack of coordination that may end up in spectators being hurt LOL
#20
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Wingnut, I have not done much on the build yet. I wanted to finish up a build I was working on first. I usually buy from my LHS as I need it so I will not know what is needed until I am done. I will be starting the build soon I hope.
Calvi.
Calvi.
#22
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I found the construction article in English along with plans for the Javelin I would like to eventually build. I actually would have liked to build the Javelin first but I have the short kit and I can start cutting parts for the Javelin when I need a break from the Crusader.
#23
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I am getting a start on the crusader, rib #2 is puzzling and does not seem to match the plans exactly so I going more by the photo in the article.
R2 grooved out to accept control cable for rudders.
I am now thinking of making some current retracts work on the crusader. Does anyone have any ideas on this, can it be done. I may take the plans down to my LHS and see what may work.
Calvi
R2 grooved out to accept control cable for rudders.
I am now thinking of making some current retracts work on the crusader. Does anyone have any ideas on this, can it be done. I may take the plans down to my LHS and see what may work.
Calvi