P-40 DRIVER

In this picture, I have added some filler wood, to get stab to fit together properly.

spaceworm

Are plans or kit more "scale" than the other? Thanks.

+1 on wood glue over CA.
Happy New Year to You and Yours.

Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4 (Koverall/dope), H9 100 inch (Gen 1) (Solartex/?), GB Anniv Cub (NIB)
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
Kadet Brotherhood #96; Mk 1 Kadet, Kadet Junior,
Sig Kougar, Sig 1/4 Cub, Sig 1/4 Spacewalker II
Carl Goldberg Tiger Club Member # 81, Eaglet 50 (to build Jr Tiger?) (NIB), SKY TIGER (Plans to scratch build)
YS F 120

P-40 DRIVER

The plans as far as I can see, They look like the original Goldberg plans to me.

David2011

My Feedback: (1)

Good luck with the build, P-40.

Spaceworm, the plans are actually pretty accurate to scale. I started trying to like CA when Hot Stuff was introduced and I still prefer an Aliphatic like Titebond. Aliphatics just aren't brittle like CA and I don't find that it slows my building significantly. In the mid '90s made a Kodalith (graphic arts film) of a J-3 3-View and projected it over the Goldberg plans to check accuracy and locate some scale details. I was surprised to find that Goldberg even used the full scale USA-35B airfoil.

Scale appearance on the Goldberg Cub can be improved by adding the stringers down the sides of the fuselage. I also made the fillet around the fuselage and vertical stab instead of ironing the fabric down against all of the hard angles around the V-stab. The plane was covered in Solartex so the fillet could be made. I also painted mine with dope in Hazel Sig's clipped wing theme. The suggestion to add a second landing gear wire is a good one. I soldered a third piece of wire at the top of the two gear legs to make a triangle and then covered the gear legs with Solartex like the full scale Cub gear is done. If an old CB Associates leaf spring tail wheel gear can be located it really adds to the scale looks.

I enjoyed the Cub but killed it one day showing someone how it always did 1-1/2 rotations when I snapped it. I entered the snap a little low, took too much speed off in the maneuver and it was inverted without enough speed to climb. I thought I had enough altitude to split-S out of it but needed another 5 feet of altitude. I've been thinking about scratch building one out of balsa instead of the load of plywood of the original kit. That should save a lot of weight.

David

spaceworm

Thank you both very much. I have an old Anniversary Cub kit NIB and planning now to save the kit and scratch build one from the plans I plan to power it with a Saito FA 56. Will the Saito power the CW nicely or should I build it full span. I already have a Sig 1/4 scale and a H9 105 inch full wing versions. I don't think I need another full span Cub. An option that I am considering is to build a CW for one of the larger Cubs. Decision, decisions, what a bother.

Happy New Year to You and Yours.

Sincerely, Richard

P-40 DRIVER

I've been working on installing the battery (temp install, my flight battery has not shown up yet), and installing my receiver.

P-40 DRIVER

Spaceworm: My plane is going to be about 6 pounds but is a minimum build, so a Saito 56 would fly it just fine. I don't think full wing or clipped wing will make much difference. I had a friend who had a CW powered by a OS 40FP which is a wimpy engine if I ever saw one. It flew ok and was fun.

P-40 DRIVER

David2011: If you laminated two pieces of 1/16th balsa cross grain to each other, you would end up with some plywood which would be about half the weight of lite ply. I think you could build a plane off the Goldberg plans, no problem.

P-40 DRIVER

A few pictures of the fuselage sides going together with Titebond, Notice they are laid so I wouldn't make to of same side.

ronwc

My Feedback: (404)

I have built many of the J-3 kits, here are a couple that I fly. I have flown them with everything from 46 two stroke to 70 four stroke. And although more aerobatic with clipped wing, flies great with full wing. About the only thing i would do to "modernize" it would be to use two aileron servos, but never had any problem with just the one. I would go ahead and glass the center section of the wing for a little extra insurance. As far as fuel goes, the extra protection from a little castor doesn't hurt.

P-40 DRIVER

ronwc: I love the Twin Cub. I agree with on dual wing servos and that's what I'm doing. The reason I did not glass the center section, is I felt the wing is completely overbuilt as it is, Its going to be a very lite plane with minimal power so I doubt its going to be an issue, but time will tell. the single sheet of Monokote on the top and bottom wing is just extra insurance.

P-40 DRIVER

Here are some picture of putting the fuselage together. Lots of clamps. I think there are other ways to build a fuselage from balsa that I would prefer.

ARUP

Yeah... don't worry too much about the parts not matching the plans on this kit. It is 'sport scale'. The stab span is too great relative to its chord and the ribs aren't stationed accurately. The ailerons are not proper, either. But... taken for what it is, a 'sport scale' Cub, you will have a very nice and GREAT flying model!

You're moving right along with this build and it looks great!

swify

I'm building a Goldberg cub as well, went with the two servo setup for the ailerons. I am using Koverall on it and will paint it with Sig dope. I bought a Saito 90 TS a couple years ago for it and will set it up with the Goldberg float kit. Have to install the servos in the fuselage and cover it, hope to get it finished this winter.

cubcrasher

My Feedback: (6)

Took "Carl" out for a little flying on Jan. 1, flew th' piss out of him. Inverted low passes, slippin & sliding,
touch & goes. Fun little plane.

P-40 DRIVER

ARUP: thanks for the compliment, swify: Keep me updated on your progress, use this thread if you want to, I really would be interested on how much weight, cost and time a doped finish would entail. Cubcrasher: hope to there soon.

P-40 DRIVER

A few details from today, I have the fuselage to the point of final sand and cover. just need to take the landing gear off and remove the switch and I can start finish sanding. A side note: to avoid contamination of the gas tank, run a loop of fuel tubing before install

P-40 DRIVER

I needed to make a new harness for my Cellpro charger, charger cable to JR extension, so here's a picture of the tools needed, the way I wrap my wires before soldering, and after I have applied the shrink wrap tubing,

P-40 DRIVER

Another couple of photos of a clamp up of the wing hold bolt blocks and using screws as clamp on the bottom of the fuse at the landing gear area.

cubcrasher

My Feedback: (6)

Lookin good there P-40.

P-40 DRIVER

A few more pictures of the Fuselage, covering the nose and installing the dowels.

ARUP

Since time is aplenty you might cut the stab in half and then install aluminum tubes on one half and dowels on the other. After covering the fuselage and fin as a unit just glue the covered stab halves in place. That will eliminate the pesky fin-fuse fillet problem and look better on the finished model. You could even 'go crazy' and make it where there is a nice little scale gap between the stab and fuselage. Like I say... these doo-dads cost nothing but a little time.

What covering ya gonna use?

P-40 DRIVER

That's a great idea and I could do that on the next one, but as you may have noticed I'm running kind of running a duel thread. A lot of what I'm posting; I did months ago, So the tail has been on there awhile. This build is what I like to call a minimum build so I can get back in the air after 2 1/2 years of not flying. I'm doing just enough to get this thing finished and flying. The mods are just my standard setup. As for the covering, its going to be good old Monokote, cheap and it works just fine. I will be doing something a little interesting on the next build. I seem to have very little time and money these days, so we do what we can. 27 years in the hobby and I seem to be back at square one for now.

P-40 DRIVER

Okay, a few pictures of installing the tail. I use a flat and level table so I can be sure everything is as it should be, I take lots of measurements before getting out the glue. This is one of the few times I use epoxy, but I think its required in this case. I also check all my incidences as well to plan. Crooked will fly, but straight flys better.

ARUP

I certainly understand that. About 5-6 years ago I had some business 'partners' do a 180 and leave me in the lurch. Unfortunately, I'm too trusting but am learning! I'm a Houston grad, have fond memories of and love Texas!