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Sig Kadet MkII build

Old 10-24-2015, 08:28 AM
  #26  
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Thanks Ken. I am probably going to change (simplify) the scheme because I have basically no experience with monokote and don't want to set myself up for disappointment. To finish I need to solder up the flex cables for throttle and nose wheel, install a switch/charge jack, paint the cowl, fine sand & monokote, balance, install & adjust control linkages, get an engine test stand set up and break in the engine. I will be posting updates in my thread soon.

Don
Old 10-24-2015, 10:57 AM
  #27  
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Hi Don,

Great! Looking forward to the updates. If I might make a suggestion regarding covering, you could start with smaller pieces like the rudder and elevators then the ailerons...it's less intimidating that way, and easier to fix any issues (plus they'll be less noticeable) if you have any. Hopefully then you'll feel more at ease when you move on to the bigger pieces like the wing and fuse.

cheers,
Ken
Old 10-26-2015, 05:52 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by KenChoo View Post
Top Flite 182? Who knows, maybe one day. I gotta build up to it though (pun intended). :-)

In the meantime, here are some more pics for today. I took a photo of the paper templates I drew for the shear webs...I took measurements of the bay using a ruler and two triangles. The triangles helped me to get the proper angle to cut the sides of the webs - I'd first lay one triangle vertically on the top spar, then laying an edge of the other triangle against a rib, I'd clamp those two triangles together with my fingers and take them to a piece of paper and copy the angle. The ribs were pretty square all around (except the root rib) so I didn't really have to do this, but it helped with good, tight fitting joints (see pic). I could have also used the dihedral angle gauge to help with the root rib web so this process wasn't 100% necessary...I just found it helped me.

Other than that, it's just chugging along with more sheeting and cap-stripping till I've got a left panel also completed! Next is more sanding then epoxying the two sides together.


Looking at the quality of your work you could handle it!
Old 10-26-2015, 06:21 AM
  #29  
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Geez guys, you're going to have me ordering one before all is said and done. Needless to say, I can't build anything stock so there will probably be major wing modifications if I do buy one. I know I'll just have to change the aileron set up to barn doors rather than strip and go with two servos, one for each aileron out closer to the wing tip. I also know I just can't do the 2" of dihedral, maybe 1/2" instead Now I just need to figure out what to use for an engine before starting OH CRAP!!!!!!!!!! I just remembered I have a wife that might not understand ANOTHER R/C BUILD

Just a quick question;
Anyone ever fly one of these with an OS 46AX? I know I can use the 35AX but I would rather have a bit more grunt, just in case

Last edited by Hydro Junkie; 10-26-2015 at 07:48 AM.
Old 10-26-2015, 08:20 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Hydro Junkie View Post
Geez guys, you're going to have me ordering one before all is said and done. Needless to say, I can't build anything stock so there will probably be major wing modifications if I do buy one. I know I'll just have to change the aileron set up to barn doors rather than strip and go with two servos, one for each aileron out closer to the wing tip. I also know I just can't do the 2" of dihedral, maybe 1/2" instead Now I just need to figure out what to use for an engine before starting OH CRAP!!!!!!!!!! I just remembered I have a wife that might not understand ANOTHER R/C BUILD

Just a quick question;
Anyone ever fly one of these with an OS 46AX? I know I can use the 35AX but I would rather have a bit more grunt, just in case
Hey, modifications are the builders prerogative. (Its also darn near impossible to resist!)

Mike
Old 10-26-2015, 01:08 PM
  #31  
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Hi Guys,

As always, thank you for the encouragement! Short update today, and after that I'm pretty sure they'll slow down - that's because my posting has caught up to where I am in the build already (told you I was going slow!).

So with both panels built I put them together to check the dihedral and it turned out to be exactly 4", as per the manual! Hooray! It's very exciting for me because as my first proper build this means I can (and am) following the instructions correctly - one of my chief worries going into the build. It's a real confidence booster.

So the next couple of pics just show the wing glued together, then the two ply dihedral braces added (WP and WPB), and finally the servo rails glued in. I do wish Sig would give you the wood to build the servo rails but that's just a minor inconvenience.

I did have to cut a small notch in WPB (as you can see in one pic) because I couldn't relieve the center ribs 100% down to the top sheeting so there's a little ridge down the middle, and I needed the notch to clear that ridge. One other thing I thought was pretty cool, the plywood pieces were laser cut - not something we'd have seen in the kit in the 80's :-) I did sand off the black edges of the laser cutting till I could see the wood beneath as I've read the glue bonds much better that way.

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Old 10-26-2015, 01:19 PM
  #32  
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I can see I'll be changing at least one other thing, that WP I don't like, having to cut pretty much through the ribs. I can think of much better ways of doing that
Old 10-27-2015, 05:58 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by KenChoo View Post
I did sand off the black edges of the laser cutting till I could see the wood beneath as I've read the glue bonds much better that way.
There is a lot of discussion on whether sanding off the burnt edge improves the adhesive bonding. Its one of those things that will be debated forever without ever getting anyone to change their minds. It's like the whole glow vs. electric, ARF/RTF vs. building, etc.

I have tried it both ways and haven't seen a difference. Now I only sand the burnt edges when I true up the edges for a better fit. Go with what works for you.

Mike
Old 10-27-2015, 06:28 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC View Post
There is a lot of discussion on whether sanding off the burnt edge improves the adhesive bonding. Its one of those things that will be debated forever without ever getting anyone to change their minds. It's like the whole glow vs. electric, ARF/RTF vs. building, etc.

I have tried it both ways and haven't seen a difference. Now I only sand the burnt edges when I true up the edges for a better fit. Go with what works for you.

Mike
I haven't noticed a difference, either. What I do notice is that the carbon gets all over everything, including my fingers.
Old 10-27-2015, 07:45 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
I haven't noticed a difference, either. What I do notice is that the carbon gets all over everything, including my fingers.
And that varies by material type and who cut it.
Old 10-27-2015, 02:48 PM
  #36  
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Tom and FlyerinOKC, thanks for the input on laser cut blackened edges. Next time if I can (I.e. If the parts fit without sanding) I'll try to leave it as it is! I'm not sure if there are any more laser cut parts left in the kit though...might have to wait for another kit.
Old 10-27-2015, 03:00 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by KenChoo View Post
Tom and FlyerinOKC, thanks for the input on laser cut blackened edges. Next time if I can (I.e. If the parts fit without sanding) I'll try to leave it as it is! I'm not sure if there are any more laser cut parts left in the kit though...might have to wait for another kit.
Many builders do sand the char. CA seems to soak through it, so I don't bother. If you are more comfortable with sanding, by all means continue to do so.
Old 10-27-2015, 05:21 PM
  #38  
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Won't the blackened laser cut edges show thru as dark lines when light colored or transparent covering is used ?
Old 10-29-2015, 06:05 PM
  #39  
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Just a little progress...now that the servo rails are done, I've sheeted the bottom and glued in the aileron torque rods, then the aileron stock to go over those rods.

I'm a little surprised the manual (which is a very good one) didn't advise the builder to sand and then clean (with alcohol) the sleeve of the torque rod prior to epoxying them to the trailing edge...It's a smooth metal surface with minimal contact with the wood (a cylinder on a flat surface) so I would have thought you'd want to ensure as good a bond for the epoxy as you can get. Then again, maybe it isn't really necessary? I also feel that they mention using Vaseline to prevent gluing the torque rod a step late in the manual. Thankfully I didn't get caught out by that...oh well, minor observations; the build is coming along :-)

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Last edited by KenChoo; 10-29-2015 at 06:30 PM.
Old 10-30-2015, 05:15 AM
  #40  
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Incidentally, I've been wondering why the differential torque rods are set up for more down ail. than up ail. Does anyone know why? Usually differential would be more up than down.
Old 10-30-2015, 06:10 AM
  #41  
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Looking good Ken!
Old 10-30-2015, 06:29 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by KenChoo View Post
Incidentally, I've been wondering why the differential torque rods are set up for more down ail. than up ail. Does anyone know why? Usually differential would be more up than down.
You can open up the holes so that you get more upward movement. It won't hurt anything.
Old 10-30-2015, 08:21 AM
  #43  
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FlyerinOKC, thank you!

Tom, yup, thanks...I just did that and it was easy and quick. I only wonder what the design rationale was...hmm...

Have a great weekend, everyone!

Last edited by KenChoo; 10-30-2015 at 08:38 AM.
Old 10-30-2015, 01:36 PM
  #44  
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Hi Guys,

Ran into my first big problem with the kit and I need your input. One of the aileron stock pieces has a bow in it. It's decently flat horizontally, but the middle bulges back a bit (i.e. when I lay it leading edge down, only the tips touch the building board)...I think the photos will explain this a bit better than my writing...so what should I do?

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Old 10-30-2015, 01:51 PM
  #45  
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Mine had pretty much the same problem. No big thing. You've already marked what would be a straight line. Cut both to match that straight line, resand the edge to the shape it should be and press on. That little difference in area isn't going to matter one whit in how she performs.

Looking VERY good so far.

Last edited by skylark-flier; 10-30-2015 at 01:54 PM.
Old 10-30-2015, 05:22 PM
  #46  
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Hi Dave,

Thanks...that sounds like the easiest way to deal with it. I'll give it a go on Monday.
Old 10-30-2015, 05:57 PM
  #47  
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It doesn't look all that bad - just bevel the LE of the aileron stock and add hinge slots as is; after covering, bonding the aileron to the TE of the wing will eliminate the bow since the wing's TE is straight. Use tape to pull aileron up tight against wing while glue sets. I like to glue all the hinges into the control surface or flying surface and allow to set first, then attach in secondary step - applies to piano hinges, EZ hinges, or hinge points.
Old 10-30-2015, 08:17 PM
  #48  
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Could be a mis-bend but that's something we may never know.
Couldn't believe it, WIFE OKAY'D A NEW TOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Guess I need to put in the order for a MK II and the 45AX. Come to think about it, I need to see what I have as far as servos since I'll need 5 of them, two equipped with 36" extension cords
Old 10-30-2015, 11:22 PM
  #49  
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HydroJunkie, I'm not sure the 46AX will fit the cowl...it may be too long? The 35AX just fits according to the plans.
Old 10-30-2015, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by H5606 View Post
It doesn't look all that bad - just bevel the LE of the aileron stock and add hinge slots as is; after covering, bonding the aileron to the TE of the wing will eliminate the bow since the wing's TE is straight. Use tape to pull aileron up tight against wing while glue sets. I like to glue all the hinges into the control surface or flying surface and allow to set first, then attach in secondary step - applies to piano hinges, EZ hinges, or hinge points.
H606, that's an idea, thanks. Do you have advice on how I can sand the bevel with this bow though?

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