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Sig Kadet MkII build

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Sig Kadet MkII build

Old 10-31-2015, 05:36 AM
  #51  
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I like to define a centerline along the hinge-line with a tool as shown in first pic - it will give the exact C/L regardless of thickness - within reason. Second pic shows some beveling tools that are commonly included in Goldberg kits. Third shows beveled edge using bevel sanding tool - it will give uniform bevel even on bowed stock. All tools can be fabricated using common materials. Plastic tool has a scribing point located midway between the two pegs. As Tom C. says below as well as mfg: one should position EZ/CA hinges in both flying surface and control surface before applying fresh, water thin CA - you can use a pin pushed through the center to keep the hinge from pushing too far into either side - then pull it out when CA has set.

Internet is full of bad advice and I don't condone the following behavior but I've cheated and folded the EZ/CA hinge in half both directions to create a crease to define hinge-line center and placed in one half, applied CA sparingly right at union to "tack" it in place - one side only - capillary action pulls the CA in - been concerned I contaminated other half before finishing the job but have never been able to pull parts apart at least with brands I've used so far...
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Last edited by H5606; 10-31-2015 at 02:19 PM.
Old 10-31-2015, 06:50 AM
  #52  
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If EZ hinges are CA hinges, they can not be installed one half at a time. The wicking action of the hinge induce CA to penetrate the uninstalled section of the material. This prevents a good bond when the hinge is installed.
Old 10-31-2015, 10:10 AM
  #53  
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HydroJunkie - I just happen to have a .46 AX laying around so I checked it on the MKII plans with a spare set of the Sig mounts. If it is all the way back on the mount it will barely shoe horn in there, but it will fit. If you want some more room you can always cut a piece of ply of the appropriate thickness and 3/8' wide ( size of the cowl mounting blocks) to fit the perimeter of the firewall to extend the cowl forward.
Or alternately Fiberglass Specialties offers an extended version of the cowl for 4-strokes, and just trim the back end to get the required length if necessary.
http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/catalog.htm

You will not need a muffler extension with the .46AX

Ken - The build is looking good. I hope you are staying dry!
Be Safe!

Don.

Last edited by DBD1; 10-31-2015 at 10:13 AM.
Old 10-31-2015, 11:04 AM
  #54  
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Here's the one I built in about 1984.

A friend who was destroying these planes regularly suggested it to me as a quick, inexpensive build. He claimed that he and some other guys built them in a weekend - started on a Friday evening an had them in the air by Sunday evening the same weekend.

Naturally, I did not believe it. Well, it was true. See the result for yourself. I started after work on a Friday and was in the air on Sunday.

It's built stock, out of the box, with an HP 40 Gold Cup side mounted engine with a Tatone muffler. Very tight fit around the steerable landing gear.

Covering was the lowest cost iron on plastic film that I could find. This is the original which you see, after all these years. There is some wrinkling on the solid balsa of the nose which can't be removed. The stuff on the wing is still OK.

Built it for a friend who was a noob. and handed it over following several test flights. The plane has been in non-climate controlled storage for several years and across the country twice in a moving van. Last flights were two years ago when I took it back. The Kadet MK II flies very nicely and handles win d quite well.

If I were to do it again, I'd take out at least 1/2 or maybe 3/4 of the dihedral and modify it to be a bolt on wing.
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Old 10-31-2015, 04:46 PM
  #55  
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H5606, thanks for the pics! It's another viable solution for me to consider...btw I'm going with normal DuBro hinges instead of the Sig EZ hinges. Just to stay with the vintage theme.

Don, I appreciate the concern, thank you! I've been staying dry-indoors all day. It's not bad where I am, but I've seen some amazing flooding recently...especially for me with this being my first year in Houston. Btw, good info on the 46AX, thanks!

cheers,
Ken

Last edited by KenChoo; 10-31-2015 at 05:07 PM.
Old 11-01-2015, 04:28 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by KenChoo View Post
...btw I'm going with normal DuBro hinges instead of the Sig EZ hinges. Just to stay with the vintage theme.
Ken
Agreed - best option; may already know but remember to relieve for the hinge knuckle fore and aft to eliminate any hinge gap.
Old 11-02-2015, 06:20 AM
  #57  
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I have the GP Slotting tool and prefer their tool for finding the center of the edge. The pivoting pads can go on wither side to allow for wider stock and the center pin is threaded so the depth of the scribe can be adjusted.

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Old 11-02-2015, 07:42 PM
  #58  
KenChoo
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Hi guys,

Thanks to the suggestions on this thread over the weekend I felt better about continuing the build. I went with Dave's (Skylark Flier) suggestion and just sanded down first the aileron with the bow, then the other one to match it. It looked pretty bad on the board, but in terms of actual measurement it was 1/16" so I suppose it wasn't as bad as I first thought.

Since we're all talking hinging tools at the moment, I included a pic of the one I bought for this build - worked amazingly well (i.e. made a super easy job of cutting the hinge slot) on the wing, and not at all well on the really hard balsa of the aileron stock. :-) Believe it or not the wood actually bent the tines (?) of the blades outwards so I had to use a set of pliers to gently tweak them back. Anyhow, job done (with the assistance of a Dremel cut-off wheel) and now I've got to cut the tips of the ailerons to match the curve of the wing.

I have to add, I started to sand the bevel on the ailerons, but then decided I would try and save my lungs (seems like in addition to CA, I'm getting sensitive to balsa dust) and carve as much of the bevel as I could first then finish sand it. That was the way to go! I gotta say again, carving is fun (but I may change my mind when I get to the fuse/windshield).

This particular stage of the build has me thinking that there are some things ARF's don't get credit for...for all their faults, we usually don't have to put up with bowed or warped ailerons. Still, this was a good learning step for me.

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Old 11-03-2015, 12:01 AM
  #59  
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Having to deal with warped wood is another one of the reasons I don't like strip ailerons. BTW, order goes in tomorrow morning. Might have to order a low wing Kobra to go with it though I can't get that through Tower like the rest
Old 11-03-2015, 06:15 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Hydro Junkie View Post
Having to deal with warped wood is another one of the reasons I don't like strip ailerons. BTW, order goes in tomorrow morning. Might have to order a low wing Kobra to go with it though I can't get that through Tower like the rest
Order directly from SIG they are competitive.
Old 11-03-2015, 01:20 PM
  #61  
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Mike's right - SIG's got the best balsa around. That Dubro slot-cutter set's been on my workbench for over 30 years. Wouldn't cut a slot without it. I learned though, that the best way to cut large slots (the largest size in the set) is to just push that big one in to the point of the "V" to mark the location, then use the smallest twice to actually cut the slot. This has worked for me for ages.

One of the reasons that you perceive the bow to be not all that bad (which it wasn't) is because you're taking just a bit of wood from both ends. Doesn't take very much to get rid of that gap on the table.
Old 11-03-2015, 06:28 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC View Post
Order directly from SIG they are competitive.
The problem of ordering direct from Sig is they put a $20 surcharge per kit for shipping. I can order a Mk II and engine from Tower and not pay a dime for shipping. After reading that, I'm thinking about ordering a plan set for the Kobra and enlarging it while adding a few things(i.e. retracts, flaps, etc)
Old 11-03-2015, 10:04 PM
  #63  
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Real quick update: ailerons shaped, wing center joint glassed top and bottom...time to move on to the fuse!

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Old 11-04-2015, 06:37 AM
  #64  
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Beautiful! So neat its disgusting!
Old 11-04-2015, 07:59 AM
  #65  
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Flyerinokc, ...the way you said that gave me a good laugh, thank you very much!

Actually it's not as neat as I was hoping for on the top...there's a little too much epoxy compared to the bottom (there are many places where it's smooth - the weave of the cloth was completely covered). My mistake was that I forgot the wing slopes inward on the top so every time I brushed the epoxy away from the cloth, it just pooled right back! The bottom was okay because the slope is away from the center joint and everything I brushed/squeegeed away stayed away. :-). Oh well, minor sanding job.

Hey Dave, perfect tip on the hinge slotted tool! Gotta file that one in the rusty, cluttered filing cabinet that is my brain.

Last edited by KenChoo; 11-04-2015 at 08:42 AM.
Old 11-05-2015, 04:31 AM
  #66  
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Your mistake was to brush the epoxy out, toward the wingtips. Had you brushed it toward the leading and trailing edges, it wouldn't have pooled in the center, or at least not to the extent that it did. Still looks good
Old 11-06-2015, 02:34 PM
  #67  
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Hydro Junkie, yup, just like you said...lesson learned for next time.

Well, firewall is constructed...the two ply pieces epoxied together, then all the measurements layed out, followed by cutting out the hole for the fuel tank and then drilling the mounting holes for the engine mount and nose wheel bracket.



Another week come and gone! Have a great weekend guys...
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Last edited by KenChoo; 11-06-2015 at 05:48 PM.
Old 11-06-2015, 06:16 PM
  #68  
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I wanted to post this in a more timely manner however, it took me a while to draw it up. Can be used to create tapered stock of any width and taper ratio. If the reader ever needs to make their own, here's a way to do it without any machine tools and a dust mask is recommended. Technique could be used for the tail feathers if they aren't already tapered in the kit contents... Not my own idea, but paying it forward FWIW.
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Old 11-07-2015, 04:38 AM
  #69  
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H5606, great tip!

I'm wondering what's the best way to get the blind nuts embedded in the firewall...I guess I should use the bolts through the engine mount to pull them into the plywood?

Last edited by KenChoo; 11-07-2015 at 01:46 PM.
Old 11-07-2015, 06:34 AM
  #70  
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Hi Ken

Great build thread.
A Sig Kadet is a bit short of what you have been flying ;-)
I can totally relate to it though. Different airframe though.
My Dad picked up a Topflite Se5a kit second hand in the late 70's. It wasn't even in its original box it was in a Keil Kraft Super60 kit box. He sold it on a few years back ever though I had told him if he wants to get rid of it let me know. I always remembered being with him when he bought it all those years back. Was a big moment in my life when I was only about 9 years old.
As it turned out I located it a couple of months back and it's never been touched and managed to get it back. When I have time to spend quality time building I will totally enjoy building it.

Mind you as you know this is not something that I would normally fly but when it comes to building we just need our fix whether its a scale model, pattern model or a trainer. Sentimental attachment on top of this will make it a very special project. ;-)

Btw if you need some masks cut when your ready to paint let me know.
Old 11-07-2015, 06:54 AM
  #71  
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Hiya Jim! Awesome to hear from you on this thread :-)

That's really wonderful you were able to track down your dad's kit. If you start it I'm certain it would make an amazing build thread...I'm still in awe of the work I've seen you do.

Thanks for the offer on masks. I still have some decisions to make on the scheme...I might throw in a request for a little Aussie flag, or maybe a black swan? :-)

Hope it's good flying weather for you this weekend.

cheers,
Ken

Last edited by KenChoo; 11-07-2015 at 07:21 AM.
Old 11-07-2015, 07:35 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by KenChoo View Post

I'm wondering what's the best way to get the blind nuts embedded in the firewall...I guess I should use the bolts through engine mount to pull them into the plywood?
That's the easiest way - epoxy applied to surface with tangs helps hold them in place - make sure not to get glue on the threads or wax screws before hand.

Thought I'd pass this on here as its a real pita if a blind nut pushes out of areas that are hard to get to... A technique used for areas where there is high removal/replacement (hatches, cowlings, wings, etc.) is to make nut plates where nut will be sandwiched in between the material. Use scrap material thicker than the nut, counter-bore the mat'l for the thickness of the nut's flange, drill for the boss, and install nut with a hammer and punch or use vise to press into place - tang side into the mat'l. The "back" side of the nut should be flush or below the surface. Its easiest to place all the nuts in a single piece of scrap plywood and then cut around all of them to create individual nut plates. Apply glue to the nut-plate - ( thread them onto a screw if you wish to keep your hands clean while applying epoxy) and pull them into place with another - they'll now face "backwards", are essentially encased in the mat'l, and won't push out.

At least one Sig kit - the Kobra has a builder option to make one of two different style tails; wondering if the plans for the Kadet show the older Mk. I's(?) non-swept vertical stab by chance?
Old 11-07-2015, 10:03 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by H5606 View Post
At least one Sig kit - the Kobra has a builder option to make one of two different style tails; wondering if the plans for the Kadet show the older Mk. I's(?) non-swept vertical stab by chance?
If not, I've got pdf's of the original Kadet, kit RC31, and the Kadet Mk-I (RC51) was simply a re-issue of kit RC31. Will attach them here, if I can (never done it, gonna try though).

[ATTACH]2129440[/IMG][ATTACH]2129441[/IMG][ATTACH]2129442[/IMG]

Yup, it worked.
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Last edited by skylark-flier; 11-07-2015 at 10:06 AM.
Old 11-07-2015, 10:35 AM
  #74  
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Got it - thanks much on that attachment.
Old 11-07-2015, 10:44 AM
  #75  
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Yup! My pleasure. Just be sure to change the lines at the rear of the fuse too. The Mk-II is swept like the tail, original fuse rear is "reversed".

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