1/4 Scale Proctor Fokker D-7 kit
11-25-2017, 05:00 PM
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1/4 Scale Proctor Fokker D-7 kit
I bought this kit and take delivery this coming Saturday. There's one issue with it. One of the fuselage sides was started then cut into 2 pieces to fit back in the box for shipping by a previous owner. Can this be reliably repaired, or should I buy new doweling and steam the curve and go from there?
Here's a pic
Here's a pic
Last edited by Aalaadin; 11-25-2017 at 05:09 PM.
11-25-2017, 05:12 PM
#2
On a kit this size, I would probably start over. It looks like those joints would have to be butt glued, and that's about the weakest joint there is. You could wrap the joint with fiberglass or maybe CF, but you'd never get it a strong as new wood. For a very small plane gluing the joint may be OK, but for a 1:4 scale plane I'd start over.
Last edited by flyboy2610; 11-25-2017 at 05:13 PM. Reason: Needed it.
11-25-2017, 09:55 PM
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On a kit this size, I would probably start over. It looks like those joints would have to be butt glued, and that's about the weakest joint there is. You could wrap the joint with fiberglass or maybe CF, but you'd never get it a strong as new wood. For a very small plane gluing the joint may be OK, but for a 1:4 scale plane I'd start over.
I agree,
'
Last edited by Aalaadin; 11-26-2017 at 05:52 PM.
11-26-2017, 09:36 AM
#5
When that kit was up for sale on RC Canada (Proctor Fokker D-VII Kit & Wheels (Still in Box) - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum) the seller said that there were replacement maple dowels included to reconstruct the hacked fuselage side.
Suggest that you use those and make a new side.
Suggest that you use those and make a new side.
11-26-2017, 01:49 PM
#6
Probably best to start a new side.. but just for discussion reasons I can tell you what might work to fix it if you were wanting to.
Lay both parts down and butt glue it with epoxy.. try to keep the glue to a minimum. EVERYTHING STRAIGHT AND FLAT
Once it was dry .. I would take a thin dremel cutting wheel and cut a slice along the dowel and across the butt joint .. from the top to the bottom thru the center of the dowel.. Just an inch , inch and a half long.
Then I would get a good 1/16th to 3/32nd piece of aircraft ply and epoxy glue it in the slot.. outer grainon the ply running the same direction as the dowel.
After that dried, I would lay the fuse side flat, and sand a flat section on both sides across the butt joint. Sand it almost 1/8th deep...Make it over lap the butt joint about 1.5 inch each side.
Then I would again laminate ply wood on the outer sides of the joint.
Once you shape this wood back to being rounded you should have a true strong lamination that will be stronger than new dowel.
Lay both parts down and butt glue it with epoxy.. try to keep the glue to a minimum. EVERYTHING STRAIGHT AND FLAT
Once it was dry .. I would take a thin dremel cutting wheel and cut a slice along the dowel and across the butt joint .. from the top to the bottom thru the center of the dowel.. Just an inch , inch and a half long.
Then I would get a good 1/16th to 3/32nd piece of aircraft ply and epoxy glue it in the slot.. outer grainon the ply running the same direction as the dowel.
After that dried, I would lay the fuse side flat, and sand a flat section on both sides across the butt joint. Sand it almost 1/8th deep...Make it over lap the butt joint about 1.5 inch each side.
Then I would again laminate ply wood on the outer sides of the joint.
Once you shape this wood back to being rounded you should have a true strong lamination that will be stronger than new dowel.
11-26-2017, 05:46 PM
#7
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When that kit was up for sale on RC Canada (Proctor Fokker D-VII Kit & Wheels (Still in Box) - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum) the seller said that there were replacement maple dowels included to reconstruct the hacked fuselage side.
Suggest that you use those and make a new side.
Suggest that you use those and make a new side.
Last edited by Aalaadin; 11-26-2017 at 05:52 PM.
11-26-2017, 05:54 PM
#8
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Probably best to start a new side.. but just for discussion reasons I can tell you what might work to fix it if you were wanting to.
Lay both parts down and butt glue it with epoxy.. try to keep the glue to a minimum. EVERYTHING STRAIGHT AND FLAT
Once it was dry .. I would take a thin dremel cutting wheel and cut a slice along the dowel and across the butt joint .. from the top to the bottom thru the center of the dowel.. Just an inch , inch and a half long.
Then I would get a good 1/16th to 3/32nd piece of aircraft ply and epoxy glue it in the slot.. outer grainon the ply running the same direction as the dowel.
After that dried, I would lay the fuse side flat, and sand a flat section on both sides across the butt joint. Sand it almost 1/8th deep...Make it over lap the butt joint about 1.5 inch each side.
Then I would again laminate ply wood on the outer sides of the joint.
Once you shape this wood back to being rounded you should have a true strong lamination that will be stronger than new dowel.
Lay both parts down and butt glue it with epoxy.. try to keep the glue to a minimum. EVERYTHING STRAIGHT AND FLAT
Once it was dry .. I would take a thin dremel cutting wheel and cut a slice along the dowel and across the butt joint .. from the top to the bottom thru the center of the dowel.. Just an inch , inch and a half long.
Then I would get a good 1/16th to 3/32nd piece of aircraft ply and epoxy glue it in the slot.. outer grainon the ply running the same direction as the dowel.
After that dried, I would lay the fuse side flat, and sand a flat section on both sides across the butt joint. Sand it almost 1/8th deep...Make it over lap the butt joint about 1.5 inch each side.
Then I would again laminate ply wood on the outer sides of the joint.
Once you shape this wood back to being rounded you should have a true strong lamination that will be stronger than new dowel.
I have a feeling you are going to be a wonderful resource Foodstick!
