Need a fuel proof sealing coat
#1
Thread Starter
Need a fuel proof sealing coat
I am in the process of painting two airplanes and have a question on a sealing clear coat. I sprayed both of them with Rust-Oleum 2X color coat. One of the planes will have a gas engine so it sounds like the Rust-Oleum clear coat will work from what I have read. The second airplane will have a glow engine and I tested the Rust-Oleum clear spray with 15 percent glow fuel and it failed. What kind of sealing coat can I use over the Rust-Oleum color coat that will protect the paint job from glow fuel?
Thanks Steve
Thanks Steve
The following users liked this post:
gillyg1 (04-23-2021)
#3
My Feedback: (19)
Solvent based traditional automotive 2 part clears will not go over Rust-Oleum well as they can cause wrinkling. Your best bet is probably an automotive 2 part, water based clear as it will easily go over the Rust-Oleum and will stand nitro well in excess of 15%. It is very expensive though and only available in automotive finish outlets.
An alternative is water based, single part urethane clears such as those available in home supply places. Brands such as Varathane, MinWax, etc. These will offer reasonable protection against nitro, are readily available, are water clear and go on easily.
An alternative is water based, single part urethane clears such as those available in home supply places. Brands such as Varathane, MinWax, etc. These will offer reasonable protection against nitro, are readily available, are water clear and go on easily.
#5
Thread Starter
I think I will make a trip to hardware store tomorrow and get some urethane. I thought I might have some in the basement but it was Minwax sanding sealer and a can of wood hardener which I have used before to strengthen some soft balsa. I have an
airbrush that I have never perfected using and a paint sprayer that I got from my dad over 30 years ago and have never used. I hope the urethane can go on with a brush. Will that work or do I really need to suck it up and use the airbrush and hope for the best?
Steve
airbrush that I have never perfected using and a paint sprayer that I got from my dad over 30 years ago and have never used. I hope the urethane can go on with a brush. Will that work or do I really need to suck it up and use the airbrush and hope for the best?
Steve
#8
My Feedback: (4)
I didn't have a great experience with Rustoleum on my gassers. One drop of gas will permanently etch the finish even if wiped off immediately. From there if there's Rustoleum clear coat on top, the gas goes right through to the color.
Next time I will bite the bullet and use automotive grade base coat w/2-part clear coat.
For time being I'm trying Dupli-Color type of rattle can, which is apparently a lacquer base. Word is it's a bit more durable than Rustoleum enamels. It's an automotive touch up product found at most auto parts stores. We'll see, but I'll never use Rustoleum on any fuel powered plane again.
Next time I will bite the bullet and use automotive grade base coat w/2-part clear coat.
For time being I'm trying Dupli-Color type of rattle can, which is apparently a lacquer base. Word is it's a bit more durable than Rustoleum enamels. It's an automotive touch up product found at most auto parts stores. We'll see, but I'll never use Rustoleum on any fuel powered plane again.
#9
My Feedback: (19)
When using Rustoleum, I only use the “Professional” High Performance Enamel that is easily identified on the store shelves because it only comes in the tall spray cans. I started using it some years ago to touch up repaired areas on race car frames. Dries much quicker than regular Rustoleum spray and it is very resistant to gasoline. It was even more durable than the original powder coating on the frames. This paint can be top coated with solvent based clears when thoroughly cured. Only down side I could see was slightly reduced gloss than the regular spray and there was a smaller color selection.
Overall my paint of choice is Klass Kote. When clear topcoats are necessary, automotive 2 part urethane is the choice. Neither of these are really compatible with a spray can enamel like regular Rustoleum.
Overall my paint of choice is Klass Kote. When clear topcoats are necessary, automotive 2 part urethane is the choice. Neither of these are really compatible with a spray can enamel like regular Rustoleum.
#11
#13
Question for Scale Only For Me.
It looks like WR-LPU is going away in favor of Pennant Top Coat. They say to use a paint pot instead of HVLP gun. Have you had any experience with the new paint and what gun, tip size and pressure do you use with the WR-LPU? It is my guess that the same thing will work with the new formula.
Jerry
It looks like WR-LPU is going away in favor of Pennant Top Coat. They say to use a paint pot instead of HVLP gun. Have you had any experience with the new paint and what gun, tip size and pressure do you use with the WR-LPU? It is my guess that the same thing will work with the new formula.
Jerry
#14
You mean this?
https://www.systemthree.com/products...-topside-paint
System Three manufactures a marine topcoat and primer that offer increased environmental friendliness, without sacrificing performance. Since these products thin and clean up with water they are less hazardous and less costly to use than their solvent-containing counterparts. Because they are non-flammable they can be used where flammable solvent-based paints cannot. Once cured, the combination is water and chemical-resistant and offers maximum protection from sun and weather, for watercraft and many other projects. Pennant Primer has easy-sanding properties, while Pennant Topside Paint contains ultra-violet light absorbers, to give it extended durability.
A. PENNANT PRIMER
APPLICATION:
Brush / Roller: Use a high quality synthetic bristle brush or short nap roller made for waterborne paints. No reduction is necessary for application. Best results are achieved by using the foam nap roller in combination with a synthetic brush (roll and tip).
Conventional Pressure Pot:
• Pot Pressure: 10-15 psi
• Atomization Pressure 25-30 psi
• Tip: 1.4 – 1.8 mm tip
• Reduction: As needed, up to 15% (water or denatured alcohol)
Airless Spray:
• Pressure: 2700-3000 PSI• Hose: ¼” ID• Tip: .013”- .015”
• Reduction: As needed, up to 10% (Denatured alcohol or water)
COVERAGE:
3 coats are recommended for best results at 200-300 sq. ft. per gallon. Some porous substrates may require additional coats of Pennant Primer.
• Wet film thickness per coat: 5-8 mils
• Dry film thickness per coat: 2-3 mils
B. PENNANT TOPSIDE PAINT
APPLICATION:
Roller/Brush:Use a high quality synthetic bristle brush. 1/8”-3/16” nap foam rollers work well for lint free applications. For improved wetedge extension, reduce with water at 5-10% by volume.When applying Pennant Topside with roller and brush (roll and tip) be mindful of your working conditions. It’s advisable to work in an environment where the surface is protected from harsh environmental conditions. Surfaces which are heated by the sun, or that are exposed to ventilation/wind can set up too quickly, resulting in poor flow out.Apply Pennant Topside in thin even coats. Strive for a coverage at 3-4 mils per coat. (Wet film gauges are available at most paint stores.) Avoid overworking the paint, as this will result in lap marks. Larger areas may require additional helpers to maintain the paints wet edge.Allow the first coat to dry 4-6 hours before recoating. No sanding is required within 24 hours. After 24 hours, sand with 220-320 grit paper. Remove sanding dust by flushing the surface with plenty of fresh water. Dry with lint-free towel. Apply additional coats in the same manner. Clean application equipment with warm, soapy water. Brushes may be further cleaned with denatured alcohol.
Spray Application:
Note: Conventional cup guns and HVLP paint sprayers are not recommended for spraying Pennant Topside. Best results are achieved using pressure pot or airless spray setups.
Pressure Pot Spray:
Purge lines with denatured alcohol and follow with fresh water. Reduce Pennant Topside as necessary up to 25% by volume with water.When spraying Pennant Topside, the first coat should be applied ultra-thin, avoiding dry spray. This coat should look patching over the substrate. After a minimum of 15 minutes, apply a medium wet coat at 3-4 mils. Wait a minimum of 2 hours before applying the next coat.No sanding is required within 24 hours. After 24 hours, sand with 220-320 grit paper. Remove sanding dust by flushing the surface with plenty of fresh water. Dry with a lint-free towel. Apply additional coats in the same manner.
Suggestions for spraying:
• Pot pressure: 10-15 psi
• Atomization pressure: 30-50 psi
• Tip size: 1.0-1.2 mm
• Reduction: As needed up to 25% with water
Airless Spray:
Purge fluid lines with denatured alcohol and follow with fresh water. No thinning of the Pennant Topside is necessary with airless spray. If environmental conditions require, thin as necessary up to 5%.Hold the gun 16” from the surface and move quickly, applying an ultra-thin first coat. The surface should be patchy over the substrate. After 15 minutes, apply a medium wet coat at 3-4 mils. Wait a minimum of 2 hours before applying the next coat.No sanding is required within 24 hours. After 24 hours, sand with 220-320 grit paper. Remove sanding dust by flushing the surface with plenty of fresh water. Dry with lint-free towel. Apply additional coats in the same manner.
Suggestions for spraying:
• Pressure: 2,700-3,000 psi
• Hose: ¼” ID• Tip size: .009-.011
• Reduction: As needed up to 5% with water
https://www.systemthree.com/products...-topside-paint
System Three manufactures a marine topcoat and primer that offer increased environmental friendliness, without sacrificing performance. Since these products thin and clean up with water they are less hazardous and less costly to use than their solvent-containing counterparts. Because they are non-flammable they can be used where flammable solvent-based paints cannot. Once cured, the combination is water and chemical-resistant and offers maximum protection from sun and weather, for watercraft and many other projects. Pennant Primer has easy-sanding properties, while Pennant Topside Paint contains ultra-violet light absorbers, to give it extended durability.
A. PENNANT PRIMER
APPLICATION:
Brush / Roller: Use a high quality synthetic bristle brush or short nap roller made for waterborne paints. No reduction is necessary for application. Best results are achieved by using the foam nap roller in combination with a synthetic brush (roll and tip).
Conventional Pressure Pot:
• Pot Pressure: 10-15 psi
• Atomization Pressure 25-30 psi
• Tip: 1.4 – 1.8 mm tip
• Reduction: As needed, up to 15% (water or denatured alcohol)
Airless Spray:
• Pressure: 2700-3000 PSI• Hose: ¼” ID• Tip: .013”- .015”
• Reduction: As needed, up to 10% (Denatured alcohol or water)
COVERAGE:
3 coats are recommended for best results at 200-300 sq. ft. per gallon. Some porous substrates may require additional coats of Pennant Primer.
• Wet film thickness per coat: 5-8 mils
• Dry film thickness per coat: 2-3 mils
B. PENNANT TOPSIDE PAINT
APPLICATION:
Roller/Brush:Use a high quality synthetic bristle brush. 1/8”-3/16” nap foam rollers work well for lint free applications. For improved wetedge extension, reduce with water at 5-10% by volume.When applying Pennant Topside with roller and brush (roll and tip) be mindful of your working conditions. It’s advisable to work in an environment where the surface is protected from harsh environmental conditions. Surfaces which are heated by the sun, or that are exposed to ventilation/wind can set up too quickly, resulting in poor flow out.Apply Pennant Topside in thin even coats. Strive for a coverage at 3-4 mils per coat. (Wet film gauges are available at most paint stores.) Avoid overworking the paint, as this will result in lap marks. Larger areas may require additional helpers to maintain the paints wet edge.Allow the first coat to dry 4-6 hours before recoating. No sanding is required within 24 hours. After 24 hours, sand with 220-320 grit paper. Remove sanding dust by flushing the surface with plenty of fresh water. Dry with lint-free towel. Apply additional coats in the same manner. Clean application equipment with warm, soapy water. Brushes may be further cleaned with denatured alcohol.
Spray Application:
Note: Conventional cup guns and HVLP paint sprayers are not recommended for spraying Pennant Topside. Best results are achieved using pressure pot or airless spray setups.
Pressure Pot Spray:
Purge lines with denatured alcohol and follow with fresh water. Reduce Pennant Topside as necessary up to 25% by volume with water.When spraying Pennant Topside, the first coat should be applied ultra-thin, avoiding dry spray. This coat should look patching over the substrate. After a minimum of 15 minutes, apply a medium wet coat at 3-4 mils. Wait a minimum of 2 hours before applying the next coat.No sanding is required within 24 hours. After 24 hours, sand with 220-320 grit paper. Remove sanding dust by flushing the surface with plenty of fresh water. Dry with a lint-free towel. Apply additional coats in the same manner.
Suggestions for spraying:
• Pot pressure: 10-15 psi
• Atomization pressure: 30-50 psi
• Tip size: 1.0-1.2 mm
• Reduction: As needed up to 25% with water
Airless Spray:
Purge fluid lines with denatured alcohol and follow with fresh water. No thinning of the Pennant Topside is necessary with airless spray. If environmental conditions require, thin as necessary up to 5%.Hold the gun 16” from the surface and move quickly, applying an ultra-thin first coat. The surface should be patchy over the substrate. After 15 minutes, apply a medium wet coat at 3-4 mils. Wait a minimum of 2 hours before applying the next coat.No sanding is required within 24 hours. After 24 hours, sand with 220-320 grit paper. Remove sanding dust by flushing the surface with plenty of fresh water. Dry with lint-free towel. Apply additional coats in the same manner.
Suggestions for spraying:
• Pressure: 2,700-3,000 psi
• Hose: ¼” ID• Tip size: .009-.011
• Reduction: As needed up to 5% with water
Last edited by Hydro Junkie; 05-26-2021 at 03:36 PM.
#15
https://www.systemthree.com/tools/store-locator
The following users liked this post:
Bigshark (06-04-2021)
#16
That's the stuff. Has anyone tried it with an airbrush like we usually use on models?
The airless sprayer that I use on houses would bury a model airplane. And it only works with gallon buckets.
I intend to buy some and experiment with it. Any thing that I can learn will cut down on the learning curve.
Thanks for posting the spec Hydro
Jerry
The airless sprayer that I use on houses would bury a model airplane. And it only works with gallon buckets.
I intend to buy some and experiment with it. Any thing that I can learn will cut down on the learning curve.
Thanks for posting the spec Hydro
Jerry
#18
My Feedback: (158)
Question for Scale Only For Me.
It looks like WR-LPU is going away in favor of Pennant Top Coat. They say to use a paint pot instead of HVLP gun. Have you had any experience with the new paint and what gun, tip size and pressure do you use with the WR-LPU? It is my guess that the same thing will work with the new formula.
Jerry
It looks like WR-LPU is going away in favor of Pennant Top Coat. They say to use a paint pot instead of HVLP gun. Have you had any experience with the new paint and what gun, tip size and pressure do you use with the WR-LPU? It is my guess that the same thing will work with the new formula.
Jerry
As far as application,, can't see why it can't be applied with a HVLP system or Airbrush like I have always done,
That is likely just the recommended method for marine applications on the label,, having worked on boats in my early days out of High School, they'd be putting on a heavier wet coat vs how I use multiple mist coats on my models..
Seems as the have the same crosslinker recommendation,, no doubt it will have the same chemical resistance and still be fuel proof,, but no way of knowing 100% without real world testing
good luck
#20
One thing about most of the rattle can enamels is that they take a long time to dry. The solvents my flash off pretty quickly but the resins in the paint may take as much as two weeks to really finish setting up. It wont be so much of an issue with the water base clear but you are much less likely to get wrinkling if you let the paint set a couple of weeks before coating with a automotive clear with a hot solvent.
#21
Did you know you can get System Three products from the Rockler Woodworking location on Saint Charles Rock Road, the Woodcraft location on Congressional Drive or Wicks Aircraft Supply in Highland IL? Their dealer locator is here:
https://www.systemthree.com/tools/store-locator
https://www.systemthree.com/tools/store-locator
I'll have to check that out, THANKS......brick and mortar......who'd have thought........not I.......
#22
When I need epoxy for my boats, I normally go to a Rockler store in north Seattle. It's 32miles and 42 minutes each way but I never have to worry about it being a wasted trip. I know from personal experience that I can get most woodworking glues, West Systems and System Three epoxy products off the shelf. I've never seen the paint type products but I'd be surprised if they couldn't order it in for you. Give them a call and see what they say since it can't hurt and you may even find tools that could come in handy as well
#24
Very much so. Then again, a trip to Lowes yesterday cost me $110 for a new Dremel 8220. Last Rockler run was over $150 BEFORE gassing the car up on the way home. Needless to say, when I say "I'm headed to the toy store", the wife just cringes thinking about what it will do to my checking account since that normally means Lowes, Home Depot or (heaven forbid)Rockler
Last edited by Hydro Junkie; 06-04-2021 at 08:02 AM.