Outrider6

My Feedback: (2)

I received my Old School Modelworks Javelin a short while back, and won’t be able to start building it for a while, but wanted to post about my experience thus far. The extent of my experience is opening the box, looking inside briefly and removing the literature, and studying the plans some.

This plane: OWMW Javelin

I will probably buy this decal set from Callie Graphics (I have been very pleased with their products in the past): Callie Graphics decals

Two words sum up my opinion of OWMW so far: Class Act.

I ordered direct (not from some retailer). Their website has adequate information showing exactly what you would be getting (including some informative videos), and has a very easy and smooth order process. I was perfectly fine with the stated lead time of a few days, as there is still a plane on my bench, waiting to be finished. I won't start building this one for at least a few weeks until the Ultimate bipe still on my bench is at least ready for covering. I was very pleasantly surprised to get a tracking number the very next day. I get extra time to study things, figure exactly which additional hardware will be best, plan my color scheme, read through the entire manual at least twice before laying down wood, etc.

The one I build will be multi-purpose. It will be my regular, everyday type flier, and also a floatplane. I did floatplanes a good bit a long time ago, and remember it being a real hoot. Our club gets special use permission to use one side of a lake in a city park. I already have my floats traced from a Depron pattern I made onto a big block of foam. I am using the old Clancy float guidelines and rules of thumb, which worked great for me in the past. I will want the floats to be ready to install right after my initial test flights from land. I will probably pull the Saito .62 from my Somethin' Extra and install it on this plane. Either that, or look for a Thunder Tiger .46 on fleabay (I missed a great deal on a new one there last week).

As I build it (later), I will post updates, ideas and probably ask questions from the experience of others. Looking forward to this build. Tired of racking my brain doing short kits, plans-building, etc., and having to look 13 steps ahead mentally all the time to avoid "painting myself into a corner". Looking forward to just following what I can see are clearly written instructions. It is quite apparent that a lot of thought and work went into this whole package, and I wouldn’t be surprised if the designer was or had been some sort of engineer (like I was - I recognize good designs).

Finally, I wanted to mention that it is GREAT that we still have some kit manufacturers in this country, and I gladly support them to help keep the kit building side of this hobby alive. I have built almost every SIG that I would want to build (still wanna build a smaller Kobra someday, though), Balsa USA makes nice kits, but doesn’t offer any planes that tickle my particular fancy. I am tired of building short kits, especially if they have no building instructions (I got very burned-out building this GB Ultimate from plans, and my PFP OV-10 short kit). I am either taking a long break from long, difficult and complicated builds that hurt my brain, or I am retiring from that part of the hobby and just sticking to kits from now on. Time will tell.

All in all, I am enamored with this Javelin, and looking forward to having it in my stable.

Steelman93

My experience with OSMW was also great and I am on day 3 of my own Javelin build

Outrider6

My Feedback: (2)

I have the plans laid out in a spare bedroom here. Every time I go in there for something, I just stand there admiring the lines and looking forward to building it. It's a good looking plane - kinda the classic, vintage look, like a Cessna 170 taildragger. The designer has a good eye for pleasing lines.

Steelman93

How are you doing on the build? I have the same kit and have finished the wing, tail and fuselage and need to get electronics but am totally overwhelmed. I am new to the hobby and this is my first build. What servos are you using? The kit calls for standard servos, but I see standard listed from 9 gram to 37 gram, anywhere from $10 to $200. I understand differences, i.e. nylon gear vs metal, digital vs analog etc...but not what those differences mean. For an airplane like this....what do I really need? Looking to learn from your experience on this.

thanks

Outrider6

My Feedback: (2)

I haven't even removed the wood from the box yet, as I am in the middle of several other projects. I might start building it within a few weeks.

I know how overwhelming it must be to be new to building planes and all of the decisions you have to make. Information overload.

So far, I am planning on using Hitec HS-225MG servos on all control surfaces, and a Hitec 82MG on the throttle. I like Hitec servos, but some people prefer other brands. 225's are smaller (and lighter) and usually stronger than standard servos in torque, and I used them with good success on my SIG Somethin' Extra (plus I used them all the time 15-20 years ago, before I got out of the hobby for a while). But, because 225's are smaller and the servo holes are already cut out, I will need to study the plans and parts and see what I need to do to compensate for small servos going into regular sized holes.

On servos, nylon gears are lighter and less expensive than metal (designated by "MG" in the name), but less durable. Nylon gears are fine for a plane like this, but metal gears hold up much better to impacts from crashing, bumping into door jambs, etc. Ball bearings in a servo (designated by "BB" in the name) are another very worthwhile upgrade, because ball bearing usually last much longer than bushings, which wear out from friction. I just measured the holes and they are sized for common standard servos. Hitec servo specifications can be found at the links below:

Hitec micro/mini

Hitec standard


The HS-422 and HS-425 servos would fit great in the Javelin servo holes, and work just fine for a plane like this.

I am also planning on removing the Saito .62 from my Somethin' Extra and putting it on the Javelin. It is a perfect match for my SSE, so I think it will do well on the Javelin. For a 2-stroke engine, I think a .46 would be just about right, with excellent performance. I just like big props with low pitch for my style of flying, plus I love the sound of a 4-stroke and dislike the sound of any 2-stroke.

I hope this helps. Feel free to ask any other questions, and anyone else feel free to offer differing thoughts or equipment recommendations.

Steelman93

Thank you so much for the reply and the clarification. I took my wing and fuselage to my club for advice and checking...lots of guys there are very helpful and have given me a lot of tips, but I also like doing my own research...it helps me learn.

I appreciate the help on the servos!

As far as a motor, I am going electric. I have 3 electrics right now and one gasser, I am not wanting to add glow into the mix, 2 power types is enough for me. I have a 1.4mm stik that runs on 4S so will just power it from that

Outrider6

My Feedback: (2)

Update: It is nearly completely framed. More sanding (finishing) before gluing on tail, more sanding on wing (shaping & finishing), then covering.

I am weird - I built the floats before I built the plane that will use them. I had space on my workbench at the time to build floats, but not a plane. Once it proves itself flying from land, then I will try it from water, which I haven't done in over 20 years, but I remember that as the most fun I EVER had with planes. The floats will just bolt on, in place of the wheel axles, and have a rear brace and water rudder. I am trying to figure out how to attach the water rudder to the air rudder, yet have it quickly and easily removable for when I go back to flying from land.

The wing turned out much lighter than I expected, but the fuselage a good bit heavier. Preliminary CG check (ALWAYS do that while building, as it gives you a chance to modify the construction, instead of adding dead weight) shows that it will probably be nose-heavy with my Saito .62. I was focused on not making it tail-heavy, and foolishly got heavy with the fuel-proofing and glue toward the nose.

It's a good kit, and quite obvious that the designer put a ton of time and thought into the design. Being a former mechanical engineer myself, I would not be surprised if the designer was one too. Or maybe aeronautical, with a strong knowledge of structures. I think it would make a good 2nd kit for a newer modeler to both build and fly. The instructions are great, but there are things you need to already know or figure out, as it is impossible to cover everything, and there are always discrepancies and errors on plans/instructions. I feel certain it is going to fly really well, and it will be good to be flying "on the wing", instead of "on the engine". The former is where I fly much better, having flown full scale years ago.

DMehalko

My Feedback: (42)

Awesome! Yes their kits are super nice, have a ghost from them I’ll build here this fall

kmeyers

Great looking floats! Are those floats a part of the kit?

Outrider6

My Feedback: (2)

Nope. The kit is just for the plane itself. I designed and built the floats.

kmeyers

They look great, post more as the build and flights go on.

Outrider6

My Feedback: (2)

Another update:

I have almost completed covering, except for touching up in a few corners. I am HUGELY disappointed to have found that I need 6 oz of weight in the tail to balance this thing. I have no idea WTH went wrong - I checked balance along the way, and it seemed to be in the ballpark. I know I went a little heavy fuelproofing the wood toward the front, but I didn't add more than an ounce or two because of it. Considering the tail moment is several times the nose moment, it would seem that I built the nose 3 to 4 x 6 oz = 18 to 24 ounces too heavy, which I most certainly did not. I know the tail wood was quite light (actually quite fragile, too), so maybe that is the root problem, and not the design.

My Saito .62 is slightly lighter than an OS .46, so the only way to solve this problem without making it nearly a half pound heavier with lead in the tail is to spend a ton of money on a tiny, lightweight engine that will make it be underpowered. I am not going to convert this to electric. I also built a set of floats, which weigh quite a bit and have lots of drag, so a smaller engine wouldn't cut it, powering it as a floatplane.

Epic fail, and I am sorely disappointed in what I have. I think I may light it on fire and throw it off of my roof. Actually, I won't do that today, but if I feel the same way about this problem in a few days, I probably will.

RICKSTUBBZ

I have been known to mount batteries in the tail to overcome such a problem.
One could also relocate the rudder and elevator servos to the rear and for sure mount the engine as close to the firewall as it can be.

Outrider6

My Feedback: (2)

I do things like that too, when it will work, Unfortunately, with it needing 6 oz of lead in the tail, that won't help much at all. The engine is already as far back as it can go, and moving a LIFE battery (nearly weightless) will accomplish virtually nothing. Moving the 2 servos to the tail would help a good bit, but I would still have to add about 4 ounces of lead in the tail. This plane is not at all worth all of that effort and headache.

Anyone want a nicely-built brand new Javelin airframe only and floats in the Atlanta GA area, for $100? All you have to do is solve this absurd problem, and you will have a nice plane. I wasted $200 on this POS kit.

Outrider6

My Feedback: (2)

I have come up with the only feasible solution I can think of and might be willing to do:

Replace the Saito .62 with a Saito .40. The .40 would fly it ok off of land, but would have no vertical performance. It might not even be enough power to get it off of the water with an additional pound of very draggy floats hanging below. I dislike "angry bees", so I am not putting a tiny, screaming 2-stroke on this thing.

I just weighed it, and it is 5 lb, 0 oz with the .62. I also just measured the nose and tail moments, and they are about 1:2. The .40 saves me about 7 oz, and that reduces the needed weight in the tail by about 3.5 oz. If I move the servos to the tail, that knocks off another couple of ounces needed back there, which gets me pretty close. I undecided on whether or not I am willing to spend about $250 and do serious hatchet job on my beautiful plane to solve this nightmare problem. I may just light the stupid thing on fire.