Hi folks,

Does anyone dilute there alphatic resin glues before use? I used to
do this for freeflight stuff but changed over to CA.

I'm planning on building a Lazy Bee and Andy's instructions suggest
using CA. After many years, I'm developing a rather nasty CA allergy and am trying
to avoid using it. So it's back to Carpenters Glue and Ambroids.

Also, I may fly this plane off water. Is Titebond II more suitable? Any disadvantages?

Thanks,
Erik

Titebond II is a great choice; while it is advertised as water resistant, I find it nearly water proof. No, I do not dilute it.

I have a friend in our club who is allergic to CA but not the odorless type. He can use the odorless CA without any problems. Did you try the odorless type?

The best would be the 5 min. epoxy for the formers and ribs , strong and fast. For Firewall 30 min. epoxy, Wing sheeting 30-45 min. epoxy or titebound (Takes a longertime to cure).

I like Weldbond. Its fast. drys clear and is everything proof.

I don't want a flying brick.

Epoxy is way too heavy for general construction. Balsa formers and ribs typically don't need epoxy. I do agree that the firewall should be attached with epoxy, but that harks back to the day of IC engines, e.g. it's fuelproof.

By the way, an individual is much more likely to become sensitized, "allergic," to epoxy than CA, plus it's highly toxic.

Erik

I use Titebond II for almost everything. (I've become sensitive to CA, too.) I have used Titebond II thinned and didn't notice any roblems at all. Still got superstrong joints. I don't know of any of my planes flying off water, so I'll take other people's word on glue performance there. (Can anyone fill me in here? I'm not flying off water, but most of my planbes are for other people's use.)

I don't fly off water....heck, I can't even walk on it yet I have heard from some of my friends that float fly that the Titebond types are not a real good deal around water. And I think that only applies if you land badly, and it takes you a while to retrieve the plane, and water gets inside somehow.

I build almost exclusively with CA in my garage-shop and if I can smell it, I back off, or use the fan. I do have 5 min and 30 min epoxies, Titebond, Pica Gluit, Sigment, Pacer 560, Elmer's White glue, and Elmer's Pro-bond Poly-U, plus some double-sided carpet tape.....they all have their uses, but CA is my main go-to stuff.

Clair

I used to use Titebond ll, and thought that Sigs "Sig-Bond" was simply repackaged TB ll.

It is obviously a close relative but has much higher tack, and faster drying time. No it isn't "instant" like CA but it is a lot closer than TB ll .

Try a bottle, I doubt that youll go back to TB ll.

Unless their formulae has changed, Titebond II is very water resistant. I have let some samples cure 24 hours then immersed them in water overnight with no apparent degredation in the joints. I would not hesitate to use it for most any application.

Was selecting Titebond over Titebond II a poor choice for normal applications? I'm building a Kadet LT-25 with a combination of CA and Titebond, but I'm trying to minimize the use of CA in favor of the titebond since I really don't like the CA fumes. I don't have any definate plans to put floats on my LT-25, but should I make definate plans to NOT put floats on it since I'm using titebond?

I think the titebond will be ok. When flying off water you probably want to coat the balsa airframe with a coat of clear dope to help avoid warping and splitting. For the paranoid, i.e. me, choose from CA, Ambroids, Epoxy, Polyurathane, and/or TB II.