I just received my Great Planes Super Skybolt kit yesterday and was amazed, I build a Balsa USA Phaeton II kit before and the parts were barely cut, no lables, every thing was a mess inside the box, so I have to figured it out what belongs to what.

Now I found a incredible diecut parts (looks like laser cut), the parts are organize with rubber bands and all lable each and every one, I though that all the kits were like the Balsa USA one that was not very difficult to build, but they have to learn a thing or two.

I was told that the SIG kit are even better, can't wait.

Keep up the good work.

You'll be amazed at how well this kit is enginnered

Ditto. GP kits are among the best when it comes to engineering.

Personally, I loved the methode they used for joining the two lower wing halves. And the Strut attachment is the best in the business!

Take my advice, and fiberglass the struts. Mine still work great after 10 years.

Keep the tail as light as possible. Can get very tail heavy if your not careful.

Mark

Fiberglass is a must on any plane for me.

What engine are you planning to put in it?

I want to go with a OS 91FX or a OS 91 Surpass II.

One question, I haven't check the pushrods, clevis, etc but are they 2-56 or 4-40 and if they are 2-56 do you Skybolt pilots recommend going to 4-40 hardware?

Also I use this piece from Sullivan in the past and plan to use it again, any comments?

Plan on building the plane as light as you can in the tail with the largest engine you can put on it. Use all 4/40 hardware. After building several, and trying different methods to lighten the tail, I've come to the conclusion that it will be tail heavy no matter what you do. The suggested C/G is too far forward to fly correctly. But it does fly well. Forget about adding smoke systems and other fluff. Keep it light.

Where do you have your CG guys; and smoke I'm not really into that, but who knows??? First I need to buy a door to use as my building board, because we have a mishap with my building board.

Well, I have to disagree with just about everything Silversurfer said (no offence meant)

But my skybolt was originall flown with an older OS 90, and I had to put the battery behind the radio compartment to balance it.

Once I updated to the YS 91AC, I had to move the battery further back.

And once I added the smoke system, the second battery pack went midway back to the tail, but I never had to add nose weight to compensate for a heavy tail.

Also, I used all of the stock 2-56 hardware and never had a problem (And I really wring that sucker out).

Geeze, why would you be talking about keeping the tail light in one sentence, and then saying switch to heavy hardware in the next?

jucava, just build it according to the plans, go easy on the glue, and enjoy one helluva airplane.

PS, hard to say on that engine choice. I would prefer to use a 4-stroke, but the 91 2-stroke might be interesting. Of course, with the lighter 2-stroke, you MAY have to add noseweight, so I think I'd stay with the 4 stroke.

I also like the four stroke but the muffler falling off issue is killing me [:@]with my Hog Bipe; going back to the Skybolt I would like to go with a 3 blade propeller [8D]and a four stroke will really make that 3 blade come to live, but I think the two stroke will look better in the cowl with a pitts muffler, you know more scale like[sm=thumbup.gif]. MinnFlier I must tell you that your video got me the ich for the Skybolt, I'll post pictures when it is done.

it's a lovely plane the super skybolt. Just keep the tail as light as possible.

I brought aftermarket fibreglass cowl and wheelpants for it, but it's not really necessary because with the lighter cowl, I'd have to put some weight up the nose anyway.

The only mod I had was change all the pushrods to sullivan gold n rod. Which was absolutely unnecessary from hindsight.

I also have the smaller SIG skybolt and I'd say the GP one flies better and is better engineered as well as more modern.

Have fun!

Bill.

jucava, I'm not sure about the three blade prop, but I DO have a (prop) brand recommendation...

I'm not usually one of those guys thay says "This prop is the best" or "that prop is better", but I have to say that I have found the Graupner props absolutely RULE the 4-stroke engine catagory. Check out a 13.5 x 8 two blade, or a 12 x 8 or 12.5 x 7 three blade.

Here's a link:

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/grprop.htm

Thank you all for the advices.

Without taking offense. I use the heavier hardware because I fly my planes HARD and LOOSE. I prefer my planes to have the most rearward C/G that I can get away with and still maintain a little stability. That's usually well behind the manufacturers suggested locations. You don't fly planes set up for me hands off much.

To meet my flight standards, I had to really lighten up the tail, and use the heavier hardware. The average flyer will not have much use for some of my techniques yet. I apologise for any misunderstanding.

This is only an observation I'd like to air out. No offense need be taken. I've been involved in r/c airplanes as a flyer for a little over a year and as an interested spectator for a long, long time. Many times I've read posts where someone is saying 'be careful, that kit is terrible, it builds tail heavy', or 'it's a piece of crap, you can't build the tail light enough'. Most always the writer is referring to a biplane or some type of warbird. The 'problem' is not usually with the kit or it's design but rather the design of the plane the kit is modeled after and it's not a 'problem' at all! Think about most real biplanes, with radial or opposed engines, and how short they are from the firewall to the CG compared to the tail moment. There are some real good reasons for this design characteristic. First and foremost-To balance the airplane! Radial engines are relatively heavy, and with the larger prop and massive amount of torque available another thing called gyroscopic progression enters into the equation. But, that's another story... Now, with the more modern Pitts and Skybolt type designs (real planes), large and very powerful engines are stuffed into very tiny aircraft. How do we balance the plane with that big heavy engine? A short nose!! In order to create a model with ideal balance we would need to move the firewall forward; CAN"T DO THAT--IT WOULD BE VERY UGLY!! Or, use good sense with construction in the rear and add ballast to the most forward portion of the engine mount, a heavy hub on prop and engine at the top of the recommended range. Warbirds-same story. The real birds had massive powerplants and armament forward of the CG. So, our light weight model engines and lack of guns out front may make it seem as if our kits are poorly engineered. Build 'em, balance 'em and fly the heck out of 'em!! And by all means, have fun!

damifino, You are absolutely correct.

Too many people take the "weight thing" far too seriously.

Adding weight to balance a plane may be your last resort, but it is by no means a CRIME!

I had a plane recently that needed almost a POUND of lead in the nose! I was mortified, but once I added that lead, the plane flew beautifully!

damifino, well said.

I have the ruder build and is big, very big, very nice, the plane is staring to take shape. I heard about complications building the cabane, but if I was able to put together a BalsaUSA kit (never ever, ever again) I shouldn't have a problem.

I recall having no problem with the cabane

If and when you have time, would you let me know where I could order this part you used? Joe[img][/img]

Gee, I thought the cabane was pretty fool proof. The fact that I built them should be proof enough.

If you refer to the slipt elevator, you can get i from Tower(LXFV37 2-56 or LXBWL8 4-40) or your local hobby shop (Sullivan S558 2-56 or S559 4-40). I decided not to used, because I'll have to solder 3 threads, instead of making a single soldering.

Thanks for you responce, I was refering too the "chip hyde" tail wheel also. I have a gp 1.20 stearman coming with a g26. First gas. I am quite new to the hobbie, and would appreciate being able to communicate with you, I know it would help a great deal, if someone could help me with the project. I would not like to buy many items that I have done in the past that I didn't need and some of them were of poor quality. If you have found a better way, would you share it? Thanks again. Joe

All I can remember of the Cabane struts is my terrible soldering job

The wires are still charred from the blow torch I used of it. I think I almost melted the wires. LOL