MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
07-11-2004, 08:26 AM
#76
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
Salmonbug,
I understand you not wanting too risk messing up the canards, but it is not that difficult, especially if you have a belt sander. You just have too mark the sand line around the perimeter the canard and work slowly. You would only taper the hinged part of the canard, bevel the hinge line, and round the leading edge of the fixed portion.... not airfoil the whole unit.
You mentioned that you rounded the trailing edge... I would advise that you at least leave the trailing edge squared off. I am no aerodynamics guru, but everything that I have read on aerodynamics states that a squared trailing edge is better than a rounded one. I guess the theory is that the airflow would leave the surface cleanly on a squared edge, where as, it would create turbulence on a rounded trailing edge; thereby promoting flutter.
I can't take credit for doing the fiberglass molds, as they were done by a friend of mine that was building one also. He sold his before completion, and I ended up with the molds. He also made a plug too do a clear canopy and the vacuum forming machine to form the canopy, which I have access too.
I understand you not wanting too risk messing up the canards, but it is not that difficult, especially if you have a belt sander. You just have too mark the sand line around the perimeter the canard and work slowly. You would only taper the hinged part of the canard, bevel the hinge line, and round the leading edge of the fixed portion.... not airfoil the whole unit.
You mentioned that you rounded the trailing edge... I would advise that you at least leave the trailing edge squared off. I am no aerodynamics guru, but everything that I have read on aerodynamics states that a squared trailing edge is better than a rounded one. I guess the theory is that the airflow would leave the surface cleanly on a squared edge, where as, it would create turbulence on a rounded trailing edge; thereby promoting flutter.
I can't take credit for doing the fiberglass molds, as they were done by a friend of mine that was building one also. He sold his before completion, and I ended up with the molds. He also made a plug too do a clear canopy and the vacuum forming machine to form the canopy, which I have access too.
07-11-2004, 08:56 AM
#77
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
From what I readed on RCU after a year of daily visit, it apear that the opinion of the aerodynamic gurus concerning the 'to round or not to round the trailing edges" is aproximatly 50% each.........
I will think about the idea of shaping them, but I am convicted the effenciency won't increase
I will think about the idea of shaping them, but I am convicted the effenciency won't increase
07-11-2004, 05:51 PM
#78
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
today, I builded the wingtips and the ailerons with counterweight. This was the end of the wood job.
Now I will start to finish my reaper, and a first coat of primer has already been applied on the parts I plan to paint.
I plan to paint the front plastic hatch of course, but also the rear wood hatch and the engine bay
spot filling has also been done on the fuse (at the position of the formers notches)
on the pics you can see that I didn't sans the leading edges of the wing, I always keep that for the very very hand, so if I hit the wing I don't damaged a nicely rounded LE
Now I will start to finish my reaper, and a first coat of primer has already been applied on the parts I plan to paint.
I plan to paint the front plastic hatch of course, but also the rear wood hatch and the engine bay
spot filling has also been done on the fuse (at the position of the formers notches)
on the pics you can see that I didn't sans the leading edges of the wing, I always keep that for the very very hand, so if I hit the wing I don't damaged a nicely rounded LE
08-15-2004, 10:02 AM
#81
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
I come back from hollydays and will continue the work on my reaper. I have also been a bit short on the money, but now I can afford the price of the covering and paint.
I will continue soon.
wings are ready for covering with leading edge in shape and the painted parts are ready to receive the final coat.
I would have said that mine will be for sale very soon, because I have other projects and I plan only a dozen of flights with it, I will sale it without any equipement but the retract and brakes. But imagine the price of shiping to US............
I will continue soon.
wings are ready for covering with leading edge in shape and the painted parts are ready to receive the final coat.
I would have said that mine will be for sale very soon, because I have other projects and I plan only a dozen of flights with it, I will sale it without any equipement but the retract and brakes. But imagine the price of shiping to US............
08-17-2004, 11:39 AM
#83
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
here is a link to mick's site
http://www.mrmodels.fsnet.co.uk/
but the box is a big one !!, shiping price from uk to us will be terrible I think.
They must be a us dealer, contact mick to ask
http://www.mrmodels.fsnet.co.uk/
but the box is a big one !!, shiping price from uk to us will be terrible I think.
They must be a us dealer, contact mick to ask
08-18-2004, 06:57 PM
#84
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RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
Here are some pictures from the build of my Super Reaper, Ram 750P powered.
http://www.houstonhobbies.com/reaper
JR Gautreaux
http://www.houstonhobbies.com/reaper
JR Gautreaux
10-14-2004, 09:18 AM
#88
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RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
I have just started building my Super reaper, I will post pics as and when, this is my first jet, in fact my first every build, I'm used to building and flying Helies so this is a bit of a challenge, The information on this site is helping no end and any hints and tips would be appreciated
10-14-2004, 04:55 PM
#89
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
welcome on this thread !!
The reaper is not very difficult to build, but the kit suffer a lot from the lack of instructions.
for experimented airplane builders (this is my first jet, but not my first kit) it's not a problem. For a first building it can be a bit more complicate. I am ready to help you step by step
in this kit, the biggest challenge in my opinion is to build a good front hatch wood frame.....
funy challenge !!!
The reaper is not very difficult to build, but the kit suffer a lot from the lack of instructions.
for experimented airplane builders (this is my first jet, but not my first kit) it's not a problem. For a first building it can be a bit more complicate. I am ready to help you step by step
in this kit, the biggest challenge in my opinion is to build a good front hatch wood frame.....
funy challenge !!!
10-15-2004, 07:32 AM
#90
My Feedback: (102)
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
If you have the newer kit, the hatch frame is pretty easy and goes together very quickly. The parts are precut and you can use a quick CA to frame it up, put it in the clear fuselage cover and apply the final glue. THen cut away the extra pastic fuse. The newer kit will go together quickly. I had only seen one up close prior to starting mine. The directions, although short, provided some good drawing which showed where the parts went. After a little trial and error I started glueing. WIthin two hours I had the basic fuse completed. I am covering mine right now. I would suggest contacting JR and getting his aftermarket LG, they are awesome and really add the plane. Replace the front LG with the Sierra PRecision strut used on the Facet 1200. Now it starts to look really good. I don't think these landing gear are gonna spring like the ones furnished in the kit. I hope to have most of the overing done by the first of the week so maybe I can post some pics soon.
Tommy
Tommy
10-17-2004, 07:01 AM
#92
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
ORIGINAL: DocYates
If you have the newer kit, the hatch frame is pretty easy and goes together very quickly. The parts are precut and you can use a quick CA to frame it up, put it in the clear fuselage cover and apply the final glue. THen cut away the extra pastic fuse. The newer kit will go together quickly. I had only seen one up close prior to starting mine. The directions, although short, provided some good drawing which showed where the parts went. After a little trial and error I started glueing. WIthin two hours I had the basic fuse completed. I am covering mine right now. I would suggest contacting JR and getting his aftermarket LG, they are awesome and really add the plane. Replace the front LG with the Sierra PRecision strut used on the Facet 1200. Now it starts to look really good. I don't think these landing gear are gonna spring like the ones furnished in the kit. I hope to have most of the overing done by the first of the week so maybe I can post some pics soon.
Tommy
If you have the newer kit, the hatch frame is pretty easy and goes together very quickly. The parts are precut and you can use a quick CA to frame it up, put it in the clear fuselage cover and apply the final glue. THen cut away the extra pastic fuse. The newer kit will go together quickly. I had only seen one up close prior to starting mine. The directions, although short, provided some good drawing which showed where the parts went. After a little trial and error I started glueing. WIthin two hours I had the basic fuse completed. I am covering mine right now. I would suggest contacting JR and getting his aftermarket LG, they are awesome and really add the plane. Replace the front LG with the Sierra PRecision strut used on the Facet 1200. Now it starts to look really good. I don't think these landing gear are gonna spring like the ones furnished in the kit. I hope to have most of the overing done by the first of the week so maybe I can post some pics soon.
Tommy
for the front hatch the method you describe was my first idea, BUT
the sides of the fuse are curved and not straight, how can you be sure your plastic hatch with the balsa former instaled will perfectly match the fuse ?
what I did personaly, is that i Builded the wood structure on the fuse. betwwen the side hatch wood former and the fuselage sides I puted scrap clear canopy material to simulate the thickness of the plastic canopy. once it was done, I addes temporarly balsa stringer betwwen wood sides of the canopy frame (with frame still on the fuse) and after that I removed the assembly from the fuse, removed my scrap clear plastic and glued the former in the clear canopy........(I hope you understood what I did) my english is not famous
on this pic you can see the temporarly balsa crosbrace still in place
10-18-2004, 04:24 AM
#93
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RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
I am still working on my fus, but I got a bit carried away over the weekend with a couple of very late night and finished both the wings, a couple of club members have pointed out that this is NOT the way it should have been done, but I should be fitting the wing to the fus prior to covering to allow for any minor changes that may need to be done. Opps. I can now only hope that the wing and fus match up. Ignorance is bliss (So they Say), this is my first ever build so I am learning and teaching myself as I go. Does any one think this is a major problem or should I carry on as I am????
I have used pro film and with some guidance from experienced builders in the club I have decided to use film top hinges instead of the supplied plastic ones any idea if this is a good or bad idea??? it looks good and should help to reduce any chance of flutter through the ailerons.
The blue is the underside, I have keeped it simple no retracts no flaps and installed servos as per instructions.
PS Please feel free to tell me I am an idiot and I should stick to helies, any advice for the beginner would be appreciated
I have used pro film and with some guidance from experienced builders in the club I have decided to use film top hinges instead of the supplied plastic ones any idea if this is a good or bad idea??? it looks good and should help to reduce any chance of flutter through the ailerons.
The blue is the underside, I have keeped it simple no retracts no flaps and installed servos as per instructions.
PS Please feel free to tell me I am an idiot and I should stick to helies, any advice for the beginner would be appreciated
10-18-2004, 07:21 AM
#94
My Feedback: (102)
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
Salmonbug,
On the newer version, there are three pieces of plastic (clear) which form the top of the fuse, including a clear canopy. The formers for the front hatch are already pre-cut, including the built in bow. If you place them on the fuse and dry assemble them, you cannot mess it up. Hit them with a little CA and then remove from the top of the fuse. Drop the assembly down into the clear plastic cover and glue this plastic covering to the newly built canopy frame. I ran a bead of Aeropoxy around the inside and let it sit for 24 hours, then came back and trimmed the extra plastic from the frame. A little sanding and it fit fine. I know it sounds hard to explain, but I think Mr Reeves worked some of the bugs out of his orignal design and made this easier to build. Whether or not it looks any better or is any stronger remains to be seen.
BTW nice covering job Smuttley. Mine is no where near as colorful as yours. Very cool.
Tommy
On the newer version, there are three pieces of plastic (clear) which form the top of the fuse, including a clear canopy. The formers for the front hatch are already pre-cut, including the built in bow. If you place them on the fuse and dry assemble them, you cannot mess it up. Hit them with a little CA and then remove from the top of the fuse. Drop the assembly down into the clear plastic cover and glue this plastic covering to the newly built canopy frame. I ran a bead of Aeropoxy around the inside and let it sit for 24 hours, then came back and trimmed the extra plastic from the frame. A little sanding and it fit fine. I know it sounds hard to explain, but I think Mr Reeves worked some of the bugs out of his orignal design and made this easier to build. Whether or not it looks any better or is any stronger remains to be seen.
BTW nice covering job Smuttley. Mine is no where near as colorful as yours. Very cool.
Tommy
10-18-2004, 08:45 PM
#97
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
Smuttley,
I don't see a problem with covering the wings first, just make sure the fuse sides are flat and parallel when building the fuse. I see that you missed Salmonbug's idea in this thread... of relocating the elevon servo's further back if he had to do it over. The location Mick shows, makes for quite a long run on the control rod.
I don't see a problem with covering the wings first, just make sure the fuse sides are flat and parallel when building the fuse. I see that you missed Salmonbug's idea in this thread... of relocating the elevon servo's further back if he had to do it over. The location Mick shows, makes for quite a long run on the control rod.
10-18-2004, 08:50 PM
#98
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
I concur with the idea of relocating the elevons servos (I say elevons because I feel I will tune this one as a delta wing and use the canard as secondary pitch control)
I didn't relocated mine and I regret it, long fiberglass pushrods will be mandatory and it's not estetic.......
hey ! countryboy, it's a long time we didn't talked, how is your reaper doing? is she flying ?
I know I have been out of this thread for a long period, but I started a other huge project.... twin engine bte super flying king [8D]
I didn't relocated mine and I regret it, long fiberglass pushrods will be mandatory and it's not estetic.......
hey ! countryboy, it's a long time we didn't talked, how is your reaper doing? is she flying ?
I know I have been out of this thread for a long period, but I started a other huge project.... twin engine bte super flying king [8D]
10-18-2004, 09:02 PM
#99
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
Salmonbug,
Yes, it has been awhile since we chatted. The Reaper is on the back burner, as other project's have superseded it. I will try to finish it over the winter months however. Keep plugging away, your almost there.
Yes, it has been awhile since we chatted. The Reaper is on the back burner, as other project's have superseded it. I will try to finish it over the winter months however. Keep plugging away, your almost there.
