I B BUCK

OK guys I've got a rooky question. I'm using robart 605 W/ 653 robostruts. On the instr.
Step 4 cut your gearwire to length. Note that appprox. 5/8" of wire will be req. to mount the strut.
(5/8" length of wire sticking out from the retract unit.
Now is that after the coil on the retract, or don't I use the coil with robostruts?
I've seen a number of pics , but none close enough to see if the strut is attached below the loop or not.

Thanks Wade

sabre1205

I just cut a straight piece of 3/16 music wire without the coil
The robostruts have spring action anyway so it is kind of 6 of one, half dozen of another


Sabre1205

mikemedic2

I have an even more difficult question, What size air tank will fit in the formers small, med?

I'm working on the fuse now to take a break from the wing. Of course just to challenge myself I glued the ply forward formers with the thrust set on the wrong way.[:@][:@][:@] Yes I read the manual multiple times looked it over multiple times marked the fuse sides previously and of course what i found is that I marked the fuse sides left and right upside down.[:@][:@][>:][X(].

Sometimes I wonder how I even remember to breath cause I am so dumb. My fix is to add 1/8 to the left and cut 1/8 off of the right which if my measuremnets are correct will put the thrust angle where it needs to be. Of course I could be looking at the metric side of the tape and using fractions.
Thanks in advance from the school for the gifted
mike

bull51

Ive never seen the coil left on when using robo struts.


Mikemedic2,

I have a medium tank and it just long enough to fit on the formers, so I assume the small will not. If you go to Tower Hobbies, I believe they give dimensions of the tanks.

bull

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Hey, Mike.

Don't feel pregnant. If I ever build an airplane without doing something like that at least once, I'll probably go into shock.

I once built one with a 1/4 inch fuse side on the left, and 3/16 on the right.

mikemedic2

Thanks for the reply bull.
I know I'm not the only one mustang but I figured I'd give you guys a chuckle

I B BUCK

sabre + Bull thanks for the insight.
I would post pics but I can't figure that out either?
Mike the school for the gifted thats where I'm from When I started this kit I thought I'd
try a flexable ruler turns out when it flexes it changes measurements. NICE I'm learnig
if you do things twice they turn out better.,

smalley46

I'm going to jump back in here after a delay of a couple months. Been doing more flying and occasional crashing than building. I was going to use Spring Air retracts with Robostrut 440 series so i could put a 4" wheel on. Talking to a fella out at the field a couple of days ago who has LOTS of experience with retracts recommended going with robostrut ready retracts instead of the Spring Air retracts. The reason, and this conversation happened in the middle of my measure 10x and cut once moments, is that I would have to put the stub of a 3/16 wire off the retract into the bushing inside the strut. This arrangement is held in place by drilling two holes through the strut and tapping two set screws that will rest against flattened spots on the wire. My advisor said this arrangement will tend to loosen over time even if everything is perfect which is hard to do. So I'm ordering 701 series robo retracts which are spring down but strut ready so that the top of the strut fits right into the trunion of the retract so only one measurement is needed which is the length of the strut. Spring Air have a good reputation so I will save those and the wire strut for a future plane that has a retract option. I have also, will post pics later, reinforced the spars and leading edges around the retracts with carbon fiber strips and have doubled all the ribs involved in the retracts.
Thanks again to all who have gone before in this forum..
Here are the pics after all.
Are people fitting the retracts beforte wing joining or waiting until the wing, minus sheeting is finished?

bull51

O.k. fellas,

Here are some pics of my wheel wells, almost finished. A little tedious, but in the end, I think it'll look o.k. What say you?


bull

He, he, I'll be sure to move the boot next time!

sabre1205

Looking GOOOOD

Sabre1205

sabre1205

After looking at this post I have found out something that i fixed without thinking about this problem you had
The servo for the ailerons is at an angle and if you look at how the servo wheel rotates, it does move up and
down through its travel from one side to the other. I without thinking about it mounted the servo at a 90 degree
angle to the rod. This may have been why yours failed, because after looking at it, the brass connecters would flex
and fail after use. Can you tell me how long yours lasted before they failed?

Sabre1205

mikemedic2

More building time here in New England, seeing it was 70 degrees two days ago and now there is 6 inches of snow and it is sleeting like the dickens out there[>:][&o]. Be glad you don't live here.

gwong

My Feedback: (1)

Gents,

Sorry if this my question is already addressed but I bought the Robart 605HD Pneumatic mains and 663 struts. I know that I need to cut off the wire from the retract without the coil. However the strut is way too long...the if I cut the strut so I can use 4" tires...I would have cut off too much and the internal cap that stops the internal spring would have nothing to hold it in...I would have to adjust the spring and let it rest against the bushing that is used to grip onto the retract wire...hope this makes sense...is this what you guys do to get the strut to fit.

Thanks a bunch,

Gord.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Gord:

Can you return the 605s, or maybe use them on something else? The 531RS is really the way to go on this bird. They are 85 degree units, which match the Stang's dihedral, and they accept 5/16" Robo Struts directly, without the use of the wire "stub". After having endless problems with wire gear that bends, I've given up on it and use struts exclusively, unless it's something like a WWI bird with a soldered up "cage" landing gear. All it will take is for that "stub" to bend a little bit, and your tires will start hanging up in the wheel wells, and you'll have nose over problems to boot.

gwong

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Bob,

I can asked my LHS,he is pretty good about returns. If not I can sell them privately. I read alot of threads before buying the 605s, guess I missed the tip about the 531RS. What about the length, I suspect I will have to cut the strut, how do I handle the spring action, I suspect the internal spring will just hit against retract part.

Are the 663 struts okay, another builder is using the same ones for his P51.

Thanks in advance,

Gord.

SVX

I am using the 663's with the 531's. So far everything is fine, the 531 as mentioned accepts the
struts without the need for the wire gear which makes installation a breeze. I too had the problem
of my tire rubbing on the strut. I ground down enough for it to turn but was kinda of
disappointed in the look. It wasn't until the R strut showed up that I realized the L strut was the
smaller one for the 3-3.5" tires. Now with the correct 633 struts and the Robart 3-3/4 tire it fits
and looks right.

According to my calculations (which are fallible) the tire size is closest to the 3-3/4" You might
want to try this size though if you go with the 633's it matters not.

SVX

mikemedic2

Just to make you guys feel better I will let you know that now I have just realized that the crutch is on upside down [:@][:@][>:]. I have no idea how I managed that, but I will say do not work on this when you are tired!!!! I remember putting it on the plans several times to make sure it lined up but still screwed it up!! and I only just found it after I have glued all the formers and fuse sides in!!! So to make the build even more fun, I now have to modify the front of the crutch to keep the 1.6 degrees of right thrust. Sometimes I wish I could just rewind this build and start again.

Flying Beagle

well I finally started my build last week, got the tail feathers done, but still need to sand/shape the tips...
been studying, measuring and thinking about the wing ribs, retract rails, etc……

I have updated my WBWR List (who-bought-which-retract) from back on page 41
Smalley46, I left you as using spring air’s for now, but you are considering robart (hope I have that right)

Beagle


http://www.rcuniverse.com/product_gu...cfm?kit_id=130
(Jimbo952)….. I used centry jet retracts on mine.
(CRJDriver)….Robart retracts…..
(scottrc) …….. had my P-51 for 11 years. Robart air retracts,
(P47flyer)……. Review kit was equipped with Century Jet retracts.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...+flite+mustang
(Ken Lapointe )…. I had spring air retracts.
(RCMustang )- …. Mine had Century Jet retracts….

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2886581/tm.htm
Page 1 - Flight Hawk….. I installed Centry Jet Models in mine …
Page 1 - Blue_Moon_ …the model flies very well, mine's eqipped with Robart 605HD,….
Page 4 - p39…….. I've been flying myP-51 all summer. OS 120 w/ pump. Robart retracts….
Page 8 - intermidiot…….. I have not used any other retracts other then the robarts 605's…… and # 653L & 653R
Page 11 -BradSD ….. hoping to fit century retracts and a 1.2 OS FS.
Page 13 -m2…I’m using the cj retracts….
Page 13 -RCMustang……. I built this bad boy back in 1995…..I remember…..mounting the CJM retracts….
Page 13 - jamieduff1981…….. The CJM units ….made specifically for his kit, hence why I chose them….
Page 18 -asphalt252 ..…. gain you about 1/8" of an inch if you use the robart 605HDs…… .
Page 22 -Mustang1964…I have been working on the retracts. I have Century jets……
Page 23 - ticketec…….I have received the following items …..653R & 653L robostrut & 606HD 85deg Main…..
Page 27 -IL2windhawk ….I went for the CJM retracts with 3 3/4" wheels. ….
Page 34 -sabre1205 ….I used Robarts 605s and had to file out more where the rails are…
Page 34 -smalley46 ….I'm planning on using spring air 116 85 retracts and robart 7/16 robostruts 663L&R
Page 35 ExcaliburIII…… I am using Robarts series 830 85 degree retracts and Series 440 7/16" Robo struts. ……
Page 35 zope_pope ….I am using the 551rs and while they are ultra duty, you'll have not a fun time getting the retract to fit
Page 38 - Mustang Fever ……I sent the Robart 622s back to Tower, I ordered the 531RS with the 663 struts to replace them.
Page 38 - sabre1205 …..I am using the Robart 605 retracts with the 380 series 3/8" diameter struts and 3 1/4" wheels
Page 38 - bull51 …. I am using the robart 551rs, 85 degree…. with the 7/16 robart struts …..
Page 39 - saramos…… I will be using the Robart 530RS retracts and the 663R/L offset struts with 4" wheels
Page 40 - skyriter …..Using the Robarts 605 Retracts with 653R and 633L struts.
Page 41 - mikemedic2….. you can add a 2 to the 531's. I just bought a set for my build
Page 44 - I B BUCK…..I'm up to fitting my retracts. Robart 605HD , 653 struts.
Page 44 – skyriter…Ordered the 85 degree trunion ass'y from Robart Part# 606 - 202A
Page 44 – SVX……I'm using Robart 531 rs's. with 663’s They have the air cylinder facing out toward the wing tip
Page 44 – chalre….tail wheel is a mechanical steering century jet. Main gears are Century Jet.
Page 46 - gwong… I bought the Robart 605HD Pneumatic mains and 663 struts

TOTALS
CJM................................11
Robart 605 ..................….7
Robart 606 .......................2
Robart #?........................3
Robart 551(830)..............3
Robart 531 ...................…3
Robart 530 ......................1
Spring Airs ......................2

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

SVX:

I've had my 663 struts sitting around for awhile, as I'm working on another project. Lo and behold, I got the same problem you had. The 663L package has the wrong strut in it.

mikemedic2

My 531's are in with the 663 and a 4" tire. tight fit and not recessed below the skin, and with the toe of the tire the back half sits slightly above the skin however they aren not final fitted, so no gear doors for me but with the way it has been going I am not doing anymore mods. At this point just want to get it built correctly. I am working on the retract tail wheel now and with any luck it won't be mounted on the top of the plane.[]
good luck beagle just go slow and check everything a thousand times and when you get to the fuse doublers and the crutch pay attention to orientation. I now have a left thrust with one fixed so technically it is 0 thrust now.
mike

I B BUCK

Beagle

I don't know if it's that important to you. I switched to the 85 deg. trunions like skyriter to match the wing.
The 90's spread out really wide. If I had it to do all over I'd use a strut ready robart 85 deg. They are more $ but I think it's
worth not having to drill and tap holes
Wade

bull51

Mike,

How about leaving the thrust as is. Then, prior to mounting the engine, just put some washers behind the appropriate side of the engine mount to get right thrust. I had to do this to add some down thrust to one of my other planes. Just a thought.


bull

mikemedic2

Thanks for the info bull I had thought about that myself and may end up doing something like that. However I have already fixed the doublers before I noticed the crutch.[]. I will get it figured out.
Well live and learn, this all helps me to learn more building and fabricating techniques. Then theres always kit two I'm sure that one goes better.
mike.

P.S. how is everyone coming with theres flying season is fast approaching (atleast somewhere).?

bull51

Heck, if I had $400.00 to spend on an engine, I'd probably be ready by the end of summer. But, seeing as I dont have the $$$$ I'm taking it slow, only a few hours a week. I'm just finishing up the wing tips now. They have shaped up nicely. Happy building all!


bull

bull51

Ok, I have a "glassing" question. I have a pretty good idea how it's done, however, when it comes to the control surfaces is where my questions begin. My flaps fit just right now, without glass. If i glass the LE of the flaps and the TE of the wing, I assume my flaps will no longer fit, right? How is this avoided without removing too much material? thanks,

bull