Texan

My Feedback: (10)

Here is a "standard" S11-260 and two modified S1-11b Pitts Super Stinkers that I was considering.

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

I think is is a great color scheme..dang..I would have did that if I had seen before.
It is easy to get overwelmed at holidays..and I wish you luck on finish..I can only say..the wait is worth it..as it a beauty in the sky when flying.
I've had problems with the tail wheel mounting area twice..and if possible, you might what to slip in a hard block beneath those runners
that form in the back..
I also would suggest beefing up the landing plate area as that also is weak..especially with that think aluminum gear they give you in the kit (no bend).
I also found the incidence wrong on my top wing..(probably from the build), but I was able to elogate the slot and make work.
Other say to do away with the slot thing and put in 2 big dowels instead.
The plane was easy to cover, except for that wierd area by the front of tailfeathers.
I also beefed up the mounting plates for the wing I-beams(struts) with fiberglass, and also added a third hole in middle
and used an adjustable rod to provide additional support to 2 wing.. (you can never be too sure). See pic.
Please send me a pic for my album..and good luck with build.
Enjoy my rc carnage website with over 1000 pics of us Las Vegas flyers..www.theultimategamer.net

Texan

My Feedback: (10)

Bobzilla,

I will take your advise on beefing up the gear plate and wing mount. I plan on using a Dave Patrick tail wheel assembly which looks scale on the Pitts. I also used Birch tri stock insted of the balsa ply to reinforce the engine box and cabane mount area. It has been an enjoyable build so far. Too bad Midwest discontinued the kit.

TX

Texan

My Feedback: (10)

Bobzilla,

I see your point about the landing gear plate. If it pulls out it will probably take out the lower wing mounting former (where the leading edge dowels insert). That could cause a challenging repair for a fairly minor incident.

TX

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

I finally decided on an engine for my Stinker..after 3 deadsticks with first 3 flight of a SuperTigre 2300.
I shoed in a freshly broke in MOKI 2.10. with a 18x10 prop. This is definitely over powered! I have yet to check CG but
I'm sure RX/Batteries will be heading to the rear. Here is a picture of the MOKI installed..minus spinner.

LMProd

How's is everyones Super Stinker flying and build completion.

I saw one in a shop and thinking of purchasing it. Is this a good building and flying kit ?

Thanks,
Gary

Texan

My Feedback: (10)

I'm still building my SS. The kit seems very good so far. It's all die cut but the quality is fine. In my opinion, the plastic cowl and pants that come with the kit are trash. If you are planning on buying the SS, you may want to consider adding the price of a fiberglass cowl and pants from Stans.


To keep things in perspective, this kit will easily price out at or above a Cermark Pitts ARF when finished. So, if you enjoy building then go for it. If not, you may want to consider other offerings.


TX

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

You are right about the cowl and pants..cheap plastic and breaks easy. I have fixe and fiberglass mine inside and seems to be holding up better.
The SS flys great with my Moki 2.10..and balanced out great..I may not have the most aerobatic bipe on the field, but I have the fastest and most unique..
Many ask who makes the plane and when I tell em it was a kit, most walk away..no time for kits today..
This SS kit was by far the best ive ever seen. The balsa was top notch..and instructions great. I would
build another if I needed to..but hey, time to fly the one I have..hehe

Texan

My Feedback: (10)

Bobzilla,

So, you got a fast Super Stinker. What is your all up weight with the Moki 2.10? I've heard these biplanes land hot. What is your experience?

TX

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Just A quick question, I have asked A number of people and never gotten A good answer. What is the difference between the stinker and the standard Pitts?? Everyong I have talked to says the Stinker ia A better flying plane both on the ground and in the air? Just wondering.

Texan

My Feedback: (10)

GB,

Are you asking about the model or full scale?

TX

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

i have a Ulltimate, hogbipe and SS.. the ultiimate is the ultimate flying machine..crisp, accurate and fast lander.
bobz

Texan

My Feedback: (10)

I've flown an Ultimate and they are pretty sweet. Well, I only have the lower right wing panel left to frame on my SS. I should be able to finish it tomorrow. I installed hard wood behind the leading edge to give the dowels some support.

By the way, are you using the one hold down screw at the trailing edge of the lower wing as shown on the plans?

TX

Iflyglow

My Feedback: (79)

I sold my Super Stinker w/Moki 1.8 8 years ago, and really miss it.

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

Yes, One screw..1/4 metal
you can put a blind nut in..or tap for a plastic..i just wanted the extra security of metal

bobz

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Just the model.

Texan

My Feedback: (10)

GB,

I can't comment on the flying differences because my SS is still under construction. However, I have a Cermark Pitts S2B which has the same wingspan and visually the planes are fairly similar. However, there are some key differences.

MW Super Stinger's airfoil is 1/4 inch thinner than the Cermark Pitts.

MW SS cord is 1 1/4 inch longer than the Cermark Pitts

MW SS ailerons are 4 inches longer with 1/2 inch more cord

The tail group shape is different between the two but the area seems similar.

The gear on the Cermark has a 3 inch wider track.

Length is the same.

The MW SS is built heavier than the Cermark Pitts S2b which allows it to handle 40cc gas engines. I estimate that the weight of my SS will be 1 pound heavier but keep in mind that the SS has more wing area than the Cermark Pitts S2b.

Thats about it.

TX

bipeflyr

My Feedback: (2)

Bobzilla,
What yellow paint did you use on the cowl to match the Ultracoat Bright Yellow?
I have an Ultimate in Bright Yellow and need paint to finish the cowl.

Nice SS, Ive always likes its style.

Greg

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

Ha.fooled you..that's not paint but the ultracote..but I think painting would have looked better..the ultracoat was applied with activator, not heat and its is kinda wrinkley.
bobz

Texan

My Feedback: (10)

Progress report:
I finished framing the wings and cut the ailerons out. Next step is to join the lower wing halves and fiberglass the center sections. I'm getting closer to the ARC stage.

TX

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

don't forget to check and correct for incidence..the plans indicate top and bottom numbers.
Mine was off a lot..and had to elongate the bottom wing slot to get the incidence right.
Glad I did, as mine flys like its on rails..(kinda like a care with good toe-in).
I remember when I was at this stage..I was continually lookin for a good color/pattern for the SS.
Good luck on the build.
I've attached a few shots of some bipe may help you pick a color.

Texan

My Feedback: (10)

Bobzilla,

Good point. I'll check the wing incidence before fiberglassing the center. Thanks for posting the pictures. I already picked a color scheme (post 25) this thread. I'm doing the blue and yellow S1-11b. Here are some other good schemes.

LMProd

I picked up a Super Stinker today. My local hobby shop had one left, got it for a good price.

Should be fun to build open for any building tips.

I thought about a Cermark Pitts that is very close. It seems kits you build are stronger and you can customize and everything fits better.

Thanks,
Gary

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

Good deal..I hope you enjoy kit as much as I have with this unique bipe.
One thing that comes to mind that I did on my SS was put the lower wing servos on the top of the wing...not on the
bottom as in plans. This might save some servos/arm/linkage if you have a hard landing and punch out the gear.
Read the threads here and you'll get lots of other nice tips..including some nice color themes.

What engine are you planning on using? ...I have a MOKI 2.10 and balanced out perfect. An OS 160 or Saito 220 would be awesome also. Good luck with your build and do send us any think INVENTIVE you have found..you never know..me might need to build a new one someday...hehe

Bobzilla
www.theultimategamer.net

enjoy my RC carnage site..with over 1200 shot of flyers in Las Vegas.

Texan

My Feedback: (10)

Gary,

If you do not have a razor plane I would recommend buying one. It really cuts down on the sanding. There are several areas on the SS that require shaping. I also recommend using 1/4 sq. spruce belly stringers between F5 and F6. Use 1/4 sq. balsa aft of F6. I doubled F6 to make the transition from spruce to balsa. The reason for this modification is to prevent stringer breakage due to handling. It is common to grab the plane right where the balsa stringers are weakest. It also prevents breakage when setting the plane on a stand.

I also used birch tri stock instead of balsa in high stress areas. You may want to substitute the tail wheel assembly for a better unit. I am using the Dave Patrick models tail wheel assembly.

Read the threads on the SS and you will find other helpful suggestions.

TX