Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
07-14-2009, 10:10 PM
#251
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
Pete, John thanks for you advice and suggestions for my Cutlass. Once i get back into it most likely after the big move to newer house, i will then start working on this model. I can't wait to have my own full proper workshop and flying field!.....
07-16-2009, 10:32 PM
#252
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
Hello gents,.... a little more progress done on the Gutless 
The D4 former that the wing hold down plate glues to was indeed some type of hardwood ply instead of lightply, so out comes the drill ! I used a 13/32nd size bit... ( I think that was the size anyway) and as you can see I placed a few lightening holes in non stress areas. Im just trying to get as much un-needed weight outta this thing as possible. I just have some kind of strange feeling this bird is gonna come out heavy for some reason.... time and some more sanding will tell the tale. Ive also got the sheeting done between the #3 and #4 formers on the the fuse. Ive also got the ply servo tray glued in the rear of the fuse..a few pics attached. More to come
John
[img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]
The D4 former that the wing hold down plate glues to was indeed some type of hardwood ply instead of lightply, so out comes the drill ! I used a 13/32nd size bit... ( I think that was the size anyway) and as you can see I placed a few lightening holes in non stress areas. Im just trying to get as much un-needed weight outta this thing as possible. I just have some kind of strange feeling this bird is gonna come out heavy for some reason.... time and some more sanding will tell the tale. Ive also got the sheeting done between the #3 and #4 formers on the the fuse. Ive also got the ply servo tray glued in the rear of the fuse..a few pics attached. More to come John
[img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]
07-19-2009, 01:03 AM
#253
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
Im got a 2 dollar and 65 cent question now.... Ive got the bottom balsa block glued on the fuse front( the one that the nose wheel goes thru) and I was just about to glue the balsa cheeks blocks to the bottom block ... then got to thinking...once these are glued there is no way to access your engine to remove it if needed. Am I right or have I missed something? Surely the cowl will /can be made to be removed????
Ive also glued the rear bottom sheeting that covers the ply servo tray on the fuse. Slowly but steady Im gettting there
John
Ive also glued the rear bottom sheeting that covers the ply servo tray on the fuse. Slowly but steady Im gettting there
John
07-19-2009, 09:28 AM
#254
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
Yes make sure that you have your nose gear block mount and that the engine mount is in place as well then you can glue the blocks in place but you will have to cut and dremel out the opening for the engine ... I think it was about this time that I made the front scoop for the air intake ...sure helped with cooling the engine and side mounted muffler.
Are you side mounting the engine or going with the top mount?
Are you side mounting the engine or going with the top mount?
07-19-2009, 08:02 PM
#255
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
Howdy Pete!
I am at the point to glue the side cheek balsa blocks on to the bottom ... the nose gear mount is already bolted in and I can stick the engine mount on pretty quickly.. will do that tonite. So you're saying go ahead and put the glue to the side cheeks huh, after bolting up the gear and engine mount? Im going to mount my TT46 or either my OS 46 sf sideways Pete, prob go with the OS. So just dremel out a hole big enough for engine removal , should that become neccessary? Can you show me what your talking about on your air intake front scoop with a pic or two if its not too much trouble?
Lastly, did you use the supplied Kraft engine mount to mount your 47? I held my OS 46SF up and its a little snug( not too bad to not to work though) going between the beams and its pretty much at the ends of the beams of the mount. Is that how you remember yours during the engine mount install?
Thanks man!!
John
I am at the point to glue the side cheek balsa blocks on to the bottom ... the nose gear mount is already bolted in and I can stick the engine mount on pretty quickly.. will do that tonite. So you're saying go ahead and put the glue to the side cheeks huh, after bolting up the gear and engine mount? Im going to mount my TT46 or either my OS 46 sf sideways Pete, prob go with the OS. So just dremel out a hole big enough for engine removal , should that become neccessary? Can you show me what your talking about on your air intake front scoop with a pic or two if its not too much trouble?
Lastly, did you use the supplied Kraft engine mount to mount your 47? I held my OS 46SF up and its a little snug( not too bad to not to work though) going between the beams and its pretty much at the ends of the beams of the mount. Is that how you remember yours during the engine mount install?
Thanks man!!
John
07-20-2009, 08:06 AM
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
[sm=red_smile.gif] OOOPS ..have the Cutlass and Contender mixed into this build ( The Contender had the front scoop ) [X(] ..On pages 4 and 5 there are some pics of the engine side hole that was made .... I used a Dave brown .40 size mount for the GMS.
With the mount in place you can cover in the engine area ...with this done you can then cut in the hole for the engine then trial fit the motor to the mount and then adjust your front spinner ring and glue into place .....then use your preferred method to fasten the engine to the mount.
With the mount in place you can cover in the engine area ...with this done you can then cut in the hole for the engine then trial fit the motor to the mount and then adjust your front spinner ring and glue into place .....then use your preferred method to fasten the engine to the mount.
07-20-2009, 09:31 AM
#258
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
Looking good on the contender Pete!
So what exactly is the purpose of the nose ring? Ive never had a plane that used one before? Ive heard alot about them, just never knew what they did[sm=spinnyeyes.gif].
Thanks,
John
So what exactly is the purpose of the nose ring? Ive never had a plane that used one before? Ive heard alot about them, just never knew what they did[sm=spinnyeyes.gif].
Thanks,
John
07-20-2009, 10:13 AM
#259
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
You can use the nose ring as the spacer for the Spinner/nose cone you are going to use..... What I do is take strips of 1/16" balsa and outline the back plate of the spinner ..then take the nose ring and tach it to the balsa on the back of the spinner ... then when you mount the spinneron the engine it will show you how much you may have to remove from the blocks or add to them to keep it flush.
when you have the nose ring in place ( glued to the balsa blocks the ones that shape you engine compartment )you can break it free from the balsa on the back plate ... then remove the balsa from the back of the spinner and you have a very even space 1/16" wide all the way a round the back of the spinner.
when you have the nose ring in place ( glued to the balsa blocks the ones that shape you engine compartment )you can break it free from the balsa on the back plate ... then remove the balsa from the back of the spinner and you have a very even space 1/16" wide all the way a round the back of the spinner.
07-20-2009, 12:17 PM
#261
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
Hi,
I don't want to hijack these two different build threads.
On the Global Cutlass 45 build: I performed the Product Review for R/C Modeler magazine on TWO (2) Global Cutlass 45 kits. (February 1996, pg. 140) You won't see my name on the Review as a By Line, R/C Modeler policy at that time.
Anyway, be CERTAIN to build about 3/8 inch WASHOUT into the tips when you are covering them with the sheet Balsa. Without the washout, your model can, and will, go into a nasty SPIN whenever it feels like it. That was the reason for the 2nd kit before the review ever got published. Also the parts to assemble a sliding tray for Elevon control were not supplied by the kit manufacturer. When you construct your sliding tray, be sure that it moves free, without any binding, there is a lot of force on the tray and the servos when the model is flying. (The original Magnum .53 was not the best engine for this model) The Cowl is built-up Balsa with just enough cut-out to install and remove the engine. The cowl is NOT removeable.
I don't want to hijack these two different build threads.
On the Global Cutlass 45 build: I performed the Product Review for R/C Modeler magazine on TWO (2) Global Cutlass 45 kits. (February 1996, pg. 140) You won't see my name on the Review as a By Line, R/C Modeler policy at that time.
Anyway, be CERTAIN to build about 3/8 inch WASHOUT into the tips when you are covering them with the sheet Balsa. Without the washout, your model can, and will, go into a nasty SPIN whenever it feels like it. That was the reason for the 2nd kit before the review ever got published. Also the parts to assemble a sliding tray for Elevon control were not supplied by the kit manufacturer. When you construct your sliding tray, be sure that it moves free, without any binding, there is a lot of force on the tray and the servos when the model is flying. (The original Magnum .53 was not the best engine for this model) The Cowl is built-up Balsa with just enough cut-out to install and remove the engine. The cowl is NOT removeable.
07-20-2009, 01:55 PM
#262
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
Thanks for the info Ken. Im not going to use the sliding tray, Im planning on just gluing the rudders to the vert. stab and carry on that way. I will be using the technique that Pete has done and will use one servo for each wing half, for a total of two aileron servos.
Ok here's a question for you, if you say to build washout into the wings, how will I be able to do that since the wing is sitting flat in the foam wing husks while they are sheeted? They will follow the form that they are sitting in, correct? Please correct me if Im wrong.
Thanks everyone!
John
Ok here's a question for you, if you say to build washout into the wings, how will I be able to do that since the wing is sitting flat in the foam wing husks while they are sheeted? They will follow the form that they are sitting in, correct? Please correct me if Im wrong.
Thanks everyone!
John
07-20-2009, 02:19 PM
#263
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
You can check your cores for washout before you start gluing on the skins. Just spot glue two scrap balsa sticks at the center line on the root and the tip with about a foot of excess at the leading edge. If they are parallel, there's no washout.
If there is no washout, I guess you could always reflex the trailing edge of the aileron (which I think is already in the plan). You could try shimming up the trailing edge of the foam cradle as you let the glue set but there is no guarantee that you'll get equal results on both wings (the foam core will always want to return to it's original cut). If you're really worried about it, you'll need to get the core re-cut with the washout built in. (cha-ching!)
Pete? Do you recall having any tip stall spin problems while you were flying this plane?
Don
If there is no washout, I guess you could always reflex the trailing edge of the aileron (which I think is already in the plan). You could try shimming up the trailing edge of the foam cradle as you let the glue set but there is no guarantee that you'll get equal results on both wings (the foam core will always want to return to it's original cut). If you're really worried about it, you'll need to get the core re-cut with the washout built in. (cha-ching!)
Pete? Do you recall having any tip stall spin problems while you were flying this plane?
Don
07-20-2009, 03:18 PM
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
Nope No spin at all ...on the sheet with the extra info on it I think it tells you to flex the end tips up a tad ... let me check
07-20-2009, 03:35 PM
#265
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
Hi Don, I was thinking( a dangerous thing for me
to maybe shim the rear trailing edge part of the wing husks to try to induce a little washout, but agree with you, the wings will most likely follow the flow of the core cradles. And thanks Pete for checking on it .
Pete, let me ask you, you did make your sliding servo tray non movable right? Doesnt it just hold the servos for the rudder, or am I not on track? I HAVE been know to be wrong once or three times before! [sm=bananahead.gif]
to maybe shim the rear trailing edge part of the wing husks to try to induce a little washout, but agree with you, the wings will most likely follow the flow of the core cradles. And thanks Pete for checking on it .Pete, let me ask you, you did make your sliding servo tray non movable right? Doesnt it just hold the servos for the rudder, or am I not on track? I HAVE been know to be wrong once or three times before! [sm=bananahead.gif]
ORIGINAL: hattend
You can check your cores for washout before you start gluing on the skins. Just spot glue two scrap balsa sticks at the center line on the root and the tip with about a foot of excess at the leading edge. If they are parallel, there's no washout.
If there is no washout, I guess you could always reflex the trailing edge of the aileron (which I think is already in the plan). You could try shimming up the trailing edge of the foam cradle as you let the glue set but there is no guarantee that you'll get equal results on both wings (the foam core will always want to return to it's original cut). If you're really worried about it, you'll need to get the core re-cut with the washout built in. (cha-ching!)
Pete? Do you recall having any tip stall spin problems while you were flying this plane?
Don
You can check your cores for washout before you start gluing on the skins. Just spot glue two scrap balsa sticks at the center line on the root and the tip with about a foot of excess at the leading edge. If they are parallel, there's no washout.
If there is no washout, I guess you could always reflex the trailing edge of the aileron (which I think is already in the plan). You could try shimming up the trailing edge of the foam cradle as you let the glue set but there is no guarantee that you'll get equal results on both wings (the foam core will always want to return to it's original cut). If you're really worried about it, you'll need to get the core re-cut with the washout built in. (cha-ching!)
Pete? Do you recall having any tip stall spin problems while you were flying this plane?
Don
07-20-2009, 03:41 PM
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
Nope did not use the tray at all ... Had put in its place the rudder servo fixed to a tray that I made myself...but have now taken it out ..rudder servo that is ... the only thing coming out of the wing in the middle is the two servo wires that's it.
07-21-2009, 10:43 AM
#267
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
Last nite I got as far as gluing the side cheeks on,I used epoxy mixed with milled fiberglass for this, got the engine mount bolted up and locktited the 6/32nd cap screws in also to help prevent them from backing out. Tonite I'll hopefully get to the nose ring area , but I may have to wait till I get the engine bolted in to know how much to sand on the front of the fuse for the nose ring gap? Then the fuse will get a good sanding to loose a little weight (I hope), then its on to the wing. I'll try and post a few pics as I go. I still need to install the servos in the fuse and run the nyrods thru the formers, and also then sheet the area over the servos, thats no biggie there though.
Later,
John
Later,
John
07-24-2009, 12:29 AM
#268
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
Im pooped! I got the hole for the engine in the cheek block rough cut tonite, just enough to put the engine on the mount without bolting it up. Thats a lot of balsa to cut away! Anywho, I'll run the nyrods and maybe install the fuel tank this weekend hopefully.
Pete, what size fuel tank did you end up using? I picked up a dubro 10 and 12 oz today at the local hobby shop, which would you go with? Im using an OS 46sf for the engine.
Also I noticed that once the engine was placed on the mount and altho I didnt bolt it in, its lined up with the mounting holes in the beams, Ive got appx 3/8 or so of the thrust washer sticking out past the end of the balsa, is that anything I need to worry about, or do I need to add a little balsa to fix it? I have not gotten to the nose ring yet, but its coming soon.
Thanks and good night,
John
I got the hole for the engine in the cheek block rough cut tonite, just enough to put the engine on the mount without bolting it up. Thats a lot of balsa to cut away! Anywho, I'll run the nyrods and maybe install the fuel tank this weekend hopefully.Pete, what size fuel tank did you end up using? I picked up a dubro 10 and 12 oz today at the local hobby shop, which would you go with? Im using an OS 46sf for the engine.
Also I noticed that once the engine was placed on the mount and altho I didnt bolt it in, its lined up with the mounting holes in the beams, Ive got appx 3/8 or so of the thrust washer sticking out past the end of the balsa, is that anything I need to worry about, or do I need to add a little balsa to fix it? I have not gotten to the nose ring yet, but its coming soon.
Thanks and good night,
John
07-24-2009, 12:55 AM
#269
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
John, temporarily install the engine, install the prop and spinner and measure the space from the front of the balsa to the back of the spinner. Then choose the thickness of ply that you would need to glue in that space to give you a nice 1/16" spacing. You say you have a 3/8 inch gap, use some 5/16" ply (or balsa/ply combo to give you 5/16") When you sand it all down and you have that slick little 1/16" gap, it'll look so cool.
Good Luck
Don
Good Luck
Don
10-29-2009, 09:25 PM
#273
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RE: Global Cutlass 45 new build with MODS
TAA-DAAAA!!!! Well here she is... finally.
Thanks a TON to my good buddy and EXPERT large airplane builder Brian, he was able to put his magic hands on the cutlass and finish it out for me and then he did his magic on the covering job, in which he is very well known for his ability to cover planes to an unbelievable degree!
We ran out of time today to do the test flight, so maybe this coming Sunday if the wind is low and the rain is outta here by then.
Finished weight is 7lbs, 4 oz, engine OS 46SF with a 10x7 prop, Brian was able to incorporate the elevators and ailerons into ailvators, whereas he used 2 servos total for the elevators and ailerons and no servos out in the wings.. aint he the smart one ?[sm=wink_smile.gif] Thats Brian in the picture . Great job Brian!!!
Wish me luck!!!! [img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]
John
Thanks a TON to my good buddy and EXPERT large airplane builder Brian, he was able to put his magic hands on the cutlass and finish it out for me and then he did his magic on the covering job, in which he is very well known for his ability to cover planes to an unbelievable degree!
We ran out of time today to do the test flight, so maybe this coming Sunday if the wind is low and the rain is outta here by then.
Finished weight is 7lbs, 4 oz, engine OS 46SF with a 10x7 prop, Brian was able to incorporate the elevators and ailerons into ailvators, whereas he used 2 servos total for the elevators and ailerons and no servos out in the wings.. aint he the smart one ?[sm=wink_smile.gif] Thats Brian in the picture . Great job Brian!!!
Wish me luck!!!! [img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]
John