Hello. I am just starting to cover my GP Phantom with silk span and thought I would put out what I'm doing and maybe yoose guys can critique or advise. Maybe we can all learn something. Have done a few mono cote jobs and happy with the results. It has its place for sure. Thought I would follow up with painting results. 3 colour cammo i think.

There were no open spaces on my plane as it is totally sheeted or planked. Robart retracts, OSFX91.

I have applied two coats of 75% nitrate dope and have applied wet silkspan right on, then slopped more diluted dope on. Just completed the fuse. Also learned (here) to try ripping the fabric instad of cutting. It works, seams are less visible.
I was very careful about ridges in the covering but there are a few minor ones.
These should sand out right? Will it matter if a little fabric get sanded off here and there? Does anyone know if I will be able to glue the plastic nacelles to the fabric with normal canopy glue or should I try to leave wood where they attach?

After a couple of coats of dope you can sand out the ridges at the joints no problem. You can also glue the nacelles right on the silkspan no problems. Just keep adding dope and sanding it off till you get the required finish.

Silkspan, a vanishing art.

Remember, it has a grain, like tissue, I'm sure you noticed that while tearing it. You can apply it over foam with dilluted elmers glue. Can be applied dry, with dope or thinned Sigment, or thinned Duco cement. Looks better than Plastic film, save that for your camera!

Jetts

Years ago there used to be a covering made by Coverite called Silkspun,had the adhesive on back. This was very easy to use! Just iron down & dope. Very strong! What happened to it? Seem`s like all the stuff that Great Planes brings back from the past, maybe now is the time for it? Anyone else remember it? Oh, by the way, kirknik your doing good, just sand the seams down. Also use sandpaper to trim excess covering off. Have Fun! big max 1935

Thanks guys. I'm planning to airbrush on a latex acrylic and then clear flat butrate to fuel proof. Anyone know anything about using a file folder held a little off the surface while spraying to soften the lines between colors in the camouflage? Is there a better technique?
Is it required?

Yes, you'll have to play a bit, but if you hold the "pattern" about 1"-3" away, you will get a softer line. Also try cutting out a half dozen shapes (hole in a piece of cardboard) hold them off your surface a bit, turn in different directions, and spray. Good EZ camo.

Jetts