Crash Campbell

Hi pcbprotool,

Having just repaired my cowl for the umteenth time since I built the CG Chippy some five? years ago I wouldnt waste my time with the ABS cowl and go straight for the fiberglass number. I have recently purchased a fiberglass cowl from fiber specialities for my second 10/300 Ultimate and am more than happy with the quality.

If you insist you can fill and repair and repair and repair with epoxy mixed with micro baloons.

Cheers,

Colin

brown2x2

My Feedback: (35)

I build mine 18yrs ago. Used fiberglass Specialist for the cowling. Landing gear is in front of the wing for the grass field. Also for power O.S. BX-1 for power. My plane fly's better a little tail heavy. LOVE IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

lalo

I am recovering my old chip, i feel the tail is not strong as it use to be, do some one has use tail braces for more security?
do you use it with wire?
how can i make them
thanks
lalo from mexico

stormexplorer

I recently completed my Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk and thought I should post a few pictures since I read through the thread during my build. I started Oct. 6th 2007 and finished January 29th 2007, so I had 3 months build time. The plane is covered in Monocote and I used trim solvent to attach the strips on the wings. I used an OS 61 2-stroke for an engine and a Spektrum receiver. I did not use the provided bell crank assembly for the ailerons but instead placed servo’s under the wing on each side. I'm using Flaperons via my radio so I did not build in separate flaps. I also placed the rudder servo behind Chippy my pilot in the cockpit, that makes it a straight shot from the rudder control horn to the servo. It seemed to me that in the original plan the rudder linkage had potential to bind in the guide tube due to the elevation change within the plane. I have read where some people have used a pull-pull systems. I used a light weight cable through a plastic guide wire to connect to the throttle servo from the engine. The cable passes between the Pitts muffler and the engine. I nearly sanded the balsa to thin behind the cockpit area on top of plane trying to make a nice curve. The cowling is split on the right side of the plane to allow it to be passed over the engine, larger washers secure this split in place. The build was relatively straight forward but I would recommend it as a second build vs. a first build. To balance the plane required 1 1/2 ounces on the prop shaft. The total weight of the plane was 8 lbs.

I have not flown the plane yet due to the snow here in Colorado. Also our club has a mall show mid January and I thought I should complete that commitment incase that first flight becomes an unplanned adventure.

Thanks Brad

skyboy500

Looks great! Let us know how it flys with the OS-61. I will build one soon and was debating about the 61 2-stroke, or OS FS-70 4-stroke (I have both NIB on hand).

stormexplorer

Thanks Skyboy500,

I will let you know how it fly's. At 8 lbs. weight and flying at a mile high here in Colo. the vertical will probably be limited. It should be a great sport flyer or beginner IMAC pattern flyer though. I'm curious to see how the landing gear is going to hold up?

Thanks Brad

gauravag

Hi all,
I am also building this Chipmunk, and had 2 questions.
1. I am doing the Flaps, but i cannot find the threaded rod that would be used to actuate them .. Somehow i think its missing or incorrectly written in the manual . Can i just bend a regular 2-56 thread pushrod and use it ?

2. I am oging to use an OS FS 91 .. should i try to add some right thrust ?

The wood in this kit is really heavy, something i was very surprised with after building an awesome Tiger from CG.
Thanks everyone
-Gaurav

gauravag

Hi,
You have a great thread going. I am building this CG Chipmunk, and the quality of wood isnt very good, ans since i am in India, theres no means of calling CG and asking for replacements

The fuselage gave me problems with the notches, and in this process i got a little more downthrust than i think was built in ...
Maybe a degree more...

Will this cause any noticeable issues ? should i try to correct this in some way ?

The other issue i am facing is that the wing at the TE is about 1/16 thicker than it should have been .. so should i have the ailerons centered on them , or aligned on the top edge ( maybe this will be better looking ? )


I built the CG Tiger2 a couple of years back and what a kit that was ... ! I hope this one flies good with all the little variations in the wing and fuselage.

Ill be mounting an OS.91 FS inverted on this ..

Thanks for your advise here. Thats the worst part in kit building . You get sleepless nights over little issues that come across in building !

Thanks to all !
Gaurav

captinjohn

I have a friend that just bought a C. G. Chipmunk and he is wondering what servos would do a good job for this airplane. Capt,n

kevthomp

I'm in the process of building mine. However, I've been told standard servos will work well in this plane (as opposed to digital). I did modify the wings to have dual aileron servos instead of bellcranks. For those, I'm using JR mini servos.

stormexplorer

Hi CaptinJohn,

I'm using Futaba S3001 servo's for all control surfaces. I used these servo's on each wing half vs. a bell crank.

Thanks Stormexplorer

mkn8632

Would any one have a picture of their super chipmunk's fire wall, engine mount and muffler. I am looking to keep everything inside the cowl and wanted to see how others have done it.

Thanks
Mike

scottml350

Hello,

Ihave been building a Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk this past month. Almost done with it. I used OS 4-Stroke 90, sullivin push rods and digital servos all around - flaps, rudder, etc.. Looks like it should come in at about 7 pounds, which is good. Inormally fly in windy conditions so the added weight should help out. Launch date is set for next Thursday. I saw some concern about the gear. I have the same concerns myself. Idid reinforce he hell out of the blocks, but I am concerned that the loads will stil be too much. I used the du bro super soft tires. Guess I'll have to really improve my skills when it comes to landing. But I have been flying for a long time and most landing gear for planes is crap.

Scott

kevthomp

Hi Scott,

I'm building a Super Chipmonk also (though it's going a lot slower I have small kids and only get to do a little here and there). In my research on the landing gear, it seems like the real problem is the landing gear rotating back. So, that little block up inside the wing, where the gear inserts into the wing, is what has to take the force. If you push back on the landing gear, that little arm inside the wing is rotating forward and there is a lot of leverage force. I read one instance where the plywood laminate in the block that holds the wire against the rib came apart allowing the landing gear wire to pass through it as the wheel rotated back into the wing. I replaced the supplied plywood block with hardwood (Sig has a landing gear block kit) and reinforced infront of that little block as much as I could. I think this will do the trick, but it will be many months before I finish the model and get to see how it works!

scottml350

HEllo,

I really enjoyed building this model. My roomate built one 20 years ago at Riddle and I really liked the way it looked and flew. Ithink I would like to build it one more time. I'm weird like that, looking back I know where I could have done a better job. Regarding the landing gear. Idoubled the ribs with scrap plywood, reinforced the entire landing gear sectionwith 30 min epoxy and ran a support from the leading edge to the front of the small block. I'll keep everyone informed of next Thursdays flight. I will agree that some of the hardware supplied in this model was ok. I used Dubro links and hardware. I did use the supplied CA higes on the rudder and elevator. I used 3 on the rudder and 4 on the elevator. I used great planes hinges on the airlarons and flaps and glued them with 30min epoxy.Also, ran some supports for the servo tray. I felt the glue wasn't suifficient enough to hold the tray up there. Itook some small scrap wood and ran them up the side of the fuse and glued them in. AlSO, DO NOT FORGET,I DID, DOUBLE THE thickness of the SERVO TRAY. When you screw in the servos there isn't enough wood to grab the screws. I do not know why CG made the servo tray so thin?
All said and done I thought the kit was fine. The wood was good, laser cut pieces-some were easy to remove others...
The hardware the kit comes with, I'll give it a C. I went after market with the hardware, I think you're better off.
Covering it is tuff. I'm not very good so I bought twice the amout of monocote as needed! LOL!
Anyway, good luck.

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

A flying buddy I had when I lived in the Denver area had a CG Chippy. His had a K&B .61 on it. All I can say is FAAASST! A great looking flyer.

I need to buy a kit.

Bipes

whizzard

My Feedback: (2)

I bought my Chipmunk already built and covered at a swap meet. The kit builder stopped at installing the control surface control horns so I know it had never been flown before I got it.

I am powering it with an E-Flight Power 46 outrunner motor, 75 Watt ESC and an A123 5s2p battery pack (18.5 Volts fresh off the charger at 2 lbs of weight. All up weight: 6 lbs)

Since the kit was prebuilt I have no easy way to reinforce the landing gear block and on my Maiden Flight I was trying to land before I ran out of power from my A123 battery pack so instead of going around on my first approach, I just put her down a little hard and sure enough one of the landing gears folded under the wing.

Does anyone have an easy/good way to repair and reinforce the landing gear block without major surgery to the wing?

Bill

kevthomp

Hi Bill,

I can't think of a way to beef it up without doing surgery to the wing. You'll probably have to cut away the balsa sheeting over the front portion of the 3rd and 4th ribs to get at the block glued to the side of the rib (I think that's right). Regardless of whether you beef it up, it sounds like you will have to get in there to repair it. Another option to beefing up the block is to use a lighter guage wire for the landing gear one that will give a little. I'm seriously considering doing that with mine. Another option that I've seen is using a single unit main gear mounted to the fusalage.

whizzard

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the suggestion of the alternative landing gear attached to body, but since the wing covers the body at the best C/G position I think I will have to repair the wing.

I am considering mixing up a large batch of epoxy glue and pouring that into the landing gear hole and filling up the entire front of the space between the ribs in front of the landing gear block.

I could then redrill the landing gear hole thrugh the hardened glue and the landing gear wire would then have to tear out the front of the wing to rotate! Of course the epoxy would weigh a lot but it sure wouldn't allow the wire to rotate. (I just might do that!!)

Bill

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

I wouldn't, but if you must, I'd use micro balloons mixed with the epoxy. It would pull the weight out of it.

whizzard

My Feedback: (2)

Since I didn't have the build instructions for the Super Chipmunk, (remember, I bought the plane assembled), I downloaded them and got to look at how the landing gear block was assembled.

I have decided that the best way to fix it is to perform surgery and replace the block. Might as well do the other side of the wing at the same time and prevent possible future block failure there.

This will prevent future collateral damage to other parts of the Chipmunk because of the other wheel folding under on another hard landing. (I tend to rip landing gear out of a lot of planes, AKA "Crash Bill"))

scottml350

HEllo All,

Just an update on My Super Chip munk. Flew it for the first time and it flew awesome!Even though Iwas supposed to fly it two months ago for the first time. No need to correct anything, well balanced in flight. Ijust love those CA kits. Easy to build and easy to fly! Only issue I had was the canopy started to come of a little.

Scott

buckymri

My Feedback: (45)

Hey Guys, I bought a nice Chippy at a swap meet recently. It was built but an engine had never been installed on the engine mount. Im not sure how far I should place the engine from the firewall. I don't have the plans, and I could just eyeball it and mount the engine on the motor mount. Does anyone know what the Goldberg plans say about the distance from the firewall to the prop hub where the spinner back plate will snug up against? Any input would be helpful in advance.

rica1

My Feedback: (32)

It's 4 7/8" to the front of the cowl from the firewall.

acdii

My chipmunk is almost ready for its first flight. I finished up the radio install and paint on Saturday and Sunday took it out for some testing of the engine and taxi tests. First thing I noticed, I must have my fuel lines mixed up, going to have to pull the tank and straighten them out, it drips fuel out the exhaust, so I must have the vent and fill lines backwards. Second thing I found the screws that hold the cowl vibrated out, so instead of the wood screws going to put in 6-32 blind nuts and socket screws. Once I get these two things straighted out then it will be time for its first flight.

Something tells me though that I will be ground looping this one at some point, it bounces like crazy on grass. I have it balance at 4" from the leading edge, so it might be a tad nose heavy, as the tail pops up quite a bit when taxiing. Once I have a flight or two on it and find it to be a good flyer I will finish the detailing on it. I have the cockpit in, but not painted, and the canopy is just attached with 4 screws. If I dont wreck it then I will complete the detailing.