Sig 1/5 scale piper cub
01-24-2016, 06:43 PM
#252
, I added integral drums for working hydraulic drum brakes.I see you talked to Ed at Du-Bro and got a set of their old Cub inflatable tires. I have a few sets tucked away that I had special ordered from Du-Bro a couple years ago.
I thought about making mine fit the Cub hubcaps, but I was too proud to cover them up!
SunDevilPilot
01-24-2016, 11:06 PM
#253
You've raised the bar! I did a set of wheels for my 1/4 Cub too. But I never thought about making brakes!
I see you talked to Ed at Du-Bro and got a set of their old Cub inflatable tires. I have a few sets tucked away that I had special ordered from Du-Bro a couple years ago.
I thought about making mine fit the Cub hubcaps, but I was too proud to cover them up!
SunDevilPilot
I see you talked to Ed at Du-Bro and got a set of their old Cub inflatable tires. I have a few sets tucked away that I had special ordered from Du-Bro a couple years ago.
I thought about making mine fit the Cub hubcaps, but I was too proud to cover them up!
SunDevilPilot
Yes, I actually got two sets of the 1/4 scale inflatable cub wheels from Ed... I have them tucked away as well in a bag filled with nitrogen, so the rubber won't go stiff... those you see in the pic's in my previous post are 25 years old, still good mind you, but the rubber is not as flexible as they were new... I wish I picked up a set of the 1/3 scale as well... I don't know how his stock is holding up, but I may get a set if they're still available.
John M,
02-08-2016, 02:52 PM
#254
After seeing John's wheels I had to add the hubcaps. I did, however, take a little different approach.
I didn't want to drill and tap the wheels for the hubcap mounting screws. So, I used an o-ring to attach them. The o-ring is slightly larger than the bore of the wheel and rests in a groove in the hubcap. There is also a tiny groove in the inner portion of the wheel which allows the o-ring to "Snap" into position securing the hubcap.
To get them off I have to remove the axles from the landing gear and push the axle through the wheels, forcing the hubcap off. This being said, the hubcaps don't really need to come off as there is no maintenance.
SunDevilPilot
I didn't want to drill and tap the wheels for the hubcap mounting screws. So, I used an o-ring to attach them. The o-ring is slightly larger than the bore of the wheel and rests in a groove in the hubcap. There is also a tiny groove in the inner portion of the wheel which allows the o-ring to "Snap" into position securing the hubcap.
To get them off I have to remove the axles from the landing gear and push the axle through the wheels, forcing the hubcap off. This being said, the hubcaps don't really need to come off as there is no maintenance.
SunDevilPilot
02-13-2016, 02:27 AM
#256
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Patriot Nation
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've started down my own road with the great Sig 1/5 anniv cub. So far a pleasure to build this well engineered kit. I added some 5/8" wide scrap lite ply backers just aft of the firewall triangle stock reinforcements so I will have something to mount my cowling screws into instead of just balsa. Best done before installing the fuse bottom.
Last edited by Nauset; 02-13-2016 at 04:17 AM.
02-17-2016, 12:00 PM
#257
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Patriot Nation
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm wondering what you guys who have the Robart Cub gear used to fill in the triangle area on the struts. Is it just your covering material of choice ironed on and shrunk tight or filled in with balsa first and then painted or covered?
Thanks
Thanks
02-17-2016, 01:19 PM
#258
Last edited by SunDevilPilot; 02-17-2016 at 07:23 PM.
02-26-2016, 07:00 AM
#260
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Patriot Nation
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wanted to replicate the round area in the rear of the cockpit and also hide the servos. This is what I
came up with. I used the leftover cutout from the rear fuse top as a template. The whole thing is held in place by the two small side panels.
came up with. I used the leftover cutout from the rear fuse top as a template. The whole thing is held in place by the two small side panels.
Last edited by Nauset; 02-26-2016 at 07:03 AM.
02-26-2016, 06:12 PM
#262
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: SorrentoBritish Columbia, CANADA
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I notice the the new Hanger 9 Carbon Cub has articulating gear and to purchace replacment gear will be $30.00 . I am hoping it will fit 1/5 scale Cubs . I have the Robart gear on my 1/5 scale Cub and now am so spoiled I would have a hard time doing with out .
02-26-2016, 09:58 PM
#263
My Feedback: (1)
bikerbc, Hope you're doing well out there in "God's country". Re the Hanger-9 carbon Cub main gear on a 1/5th scale Cub, it looks doable to me. In addition to the $30 main gear you will also need to buy the $21 "hardware pack" to get the pivot mounts for attaching the upper part of the main gear to the fuselage. Each of the mount brackets are separate parts, not attached to each other so fuselage width is not an issue. The H-9 carbon Cub is a 90" wingspan model (about a 21.3% model) so it's a little bigger than a true 1/5th scale (84.6" wing span). Most 1/5 scale ARFs are just a little smaller than true 1/5th scale (80"-83") but I think the H-9 carbon Cub gear would still look "right" on them. I am tempted to buy (pre-order) one of those H-9 Carbon Cubs, not just parts, I want the whole airplane! Boy it looks nice. The problem is my wife, I just bought a same size Phoenix Super Cub and she "will have a cow" if I buy another Cub! I bought her a new car last week and dinner tonight so maybe I can sneak another Cub into the hanger and still be alive 
. OK, truth be told, "the new car I bought her" is also to tow the new airplane trailer I bought for myself two weeks ago, so you can see I may be on thin ice. The best to you.
. OK, truth be told, "the new car I bought her" is also to tow the new airplane trailer I bought for myself two weeks ago, so you can see I may be on thin ice. The best to you.
Last edited by 52larry52; 02-26-2016 at 10:04 PM.
02-27-2016, 04:16 AM
#264
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Patriot Nation
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wish I knew that last week. I just plunked down $130 for the Robart gear. Oh well I'm happy with it although I was disappointed in that the drilling template that came with it is 1/8" off center causing me to have the gear mounted off center. I know it probably won't be an issue but it is just the principle that a company that engineers such nice stuff could screw up a simple template. Maybe they had an intern draw up the template!
03-13-2016, 12:37 PM
#265
My Feedback: (6)
well, I'm on my way to completing mine after three years off and on. I have been considering the Robart gear. Still 130.00 is a bit of cash.There was, a few years back another company that produced scale bungee gear for Cubs called "Cub Gear". I have no idea if they are still in business.
Finishing the interior with quadrants from IFLYTAILIES and a scale Continental 65 from Top Notch products now built and painted. The seats are finished and I have the scale rear strut brackets made up and attached to see how well they look. I may have to order a new windshield as the one that came with the kit is a bit buggered.
Have to wait for warmer weather to begin painting though. Still a bit cool yet up here in Northern Michigan and I have no place to paint inside.
I'm stuck trying to figure out just exactly where I need to cut the cowl to fit the engine. It ends up in two sets for right and left cylinder banks and I have to cut out a certain size hole in the cowl to mount them. Also the right side engine cylinders are a tad behind the left side.
Feh!
Finishing the interior with quadrants from IFLYTAILIES and a scale Continental 65 from Top Notch products now built and painted. The seats are finished and I have the scale rear strut brackets made up and attached to see how well they look. I may have to order a new windshield as the one that came with the kit is a bit buggered.
Have to wait for warmer weather to begin painting though. Still a bit cool yet up here in Northern Michigan and I have no place to paint inside.
I'm stuck trying to figure out just exactly where I need to cut the cowl to fit the engine. It ends up in two sets for right and left cylinder banks and I have to cut out a certain size hole in the cowl to mount them. Also the right side engine cylinders are a tad behind the left side.
Feh!
03-14-2016, 05:54 AM
#266
You are thinking of William Wallace he retired for health reasons and sold the business a few years back. Here is the new owner's website: www.cublandinggear.com
I believe Robart is less expensive.
I believe Robart is less expensive.
03-17-2016, 08:51 AM
#269
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Patriot Nation
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Flyer, yesterday I put some wood stain on the floor and started toying with an idea for a seat base. I want to hide the receiver and RX battery in the seat bases.
03-29-2016, 04:12 AM
#271
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Patriot Nation
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Seats are pretty well mocked up. Just need to get some foam and light weight black vinyl to cover them. After covering, the seats will be mounted to the bases. The bases are held in place with magnets. I made the side controls by printing photos of the full scale items and gluing to Avery labels to create decals. Good for standoff scale. Now I can finally get back to finishing the fuse construction.
Last edited by Nauset; 03-29-2016 at 04:30 AM.
03-31-2016, 10:54 AM
#272
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Patriot Nation
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a question for the veterans of the Sig Cub build. I started piecing together the cabin window frames and wing center section last night and noticed that the center section spar webs are wider than the window support uprights. This is preventing the cabin sides from leaning in against the angled uprights. It was my understanding that the uprights are leaned in so the wing mounts will have the angle needed for the proper amount of dihedral. I will need to clamp the uprights to the window frames but this is essentially pulling the uprights out rather than leaning in the frames. Is this OK or should the webs be modified a little?
Last edited by Nauset; 03-31-2016 at 03:52 PM.
06-29-2016, 04:49 AM
#273
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Patriot Nation
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So even after all the discussion about dihedral for the Sig Cub being set by the wing tube holes I plugged in my wings and tightened the set screws and there was a 1/4" droop resulting in a negative dihedral. Basically without the struts in place the weight of the wings is pulling them down. So I flipped the whole thing over and placed a 1/4" shim under the center section to set a slight positive dihedral. I constructed the struts while in that position to lock it in. Also having the plane upside-down made the strut construction a lot easier.
Last edited by Nauset; 06-29-2016 at 06:40 AM.
06-29-2016, 08:27 AM
#275
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Patriot Nation
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, the droop was before struts were built. There isn't enough strength in the center section to hold the unsupported wings with a positive dihedral or even level for that matter. See my first photo with wings attached without struts.