Lamoilleriver

Construction looks top notch as always, keep it coming...........................

Lamoilleriver

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Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

LOL, Ok making slow progress. Sutures come out of the right hand on the 22nd. Worked on the wing mounting by first maling sure the fuse was level and then the saddle. I drilled the wing dowels per plans and was SHOCKED at the level of "play" the bolt had in the hole. Cut and drilled new ones using a (#11) 0.191 bit and a very little sanding with a round file and got a nice snug fit. Tapped holes per plans and then checked the wing for level and adjusted the saddle till she was spot on.

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Belly pan is next up. The fuse needed some more shaping to match the contour of the pan tongue. But there was a gap that was filled with 1/16 ply epoxied in place. I didn't feel comfortable sanding this area down anymore. It looked like I took it down as much as the plans called for and the fit on the wing was great. Having the hatch really helped place and mount those blind nut blocks. The pan was sanded with 600 grit paper and painted with matching Ultracoat white paint.

Couldn't help taking an early shot of her with the wing on.[8D]

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Applying the fiberglass tape was done per plans. When dried it sanded well. I used the foam safe thin CA not epoxy to save weight. Cut out the center area to access the tunnels to the wing servos. The packing came out easy and nothing was blocked by epoxy.


I have some new props coming with a higher pitch. Testing with the 11x5.5 caused the ESC to cutoff at just over 2/3 throttle. Hope either a 7 or 8 pitch props will load the system better and not cause the power to surge up so fast.
Pete

Tequesta

Pete,

awesome!!!

Lamoilleriver

Rocketman612, Excellent construction techniques as always, thanks for sharing. You can't let little things like surgery slow you down. Must be getting close to chosing color scheme and etc. If someone has any "pull" with SIG have them re-introduce this kit, I'm not a ebay type of guy and prefer NIB from the LHS or Tower and etc. Rocketman612 will be waiting for more.............................................. .

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Ok catching up on this project is faster and more comfortable. The ailerons were tapered as suggested and I highly recommend you do this as it gives a good scale look to the wing. I'm using Radio South CA Hinges. Once installed I placed the aileron servos in and drew my lines for the control horns. Drilled and mounted them. The pushrods were measured 55mm each side [8D]. These were fabricated as usual.

Pete

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Next is the Canard. Made sure the saddle cutouts were level. There is a problem from going to the larger nosegear and lowering the location of the control horn. The Canard LE must be notched to accommodate the pushrod throughout it's full range of motion. I was concerned about it's strength so I used some leftover fiberglass tape and reinforced the middle top surface. Then I added a 1/8 balsa doubler flush with the canard saddle. When epoxied on it the Canard should hold up well. The fit was adjusted per plans. Elevator placed and checked it's motion. The control horn may be a problem hitting the crossbrace. Will address later.

Pete

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

In step 114A it tells you to add a crossbrace to the belly pan. Well with the Battery pack in there on velcro the brace interfears with lifting the pack out. Will omit the brace.

Servo installation will have the HS 225 servos side be side. The location of the blind nut block to secure the bellypan turned out to be behind it's position on the plans and the servo will not clear it. If a spacer is used to raise the servo the compartment cover won't clear. Fortunately there was enough room for this setup.

Finally we get to the motor. The firewall was measured per plans. A 9/16 Forstner bit drilled the center. Then using the motor mount supplied the holes for the motor were drilled. Test fitted. The cooling holes were drilled again with 1/4 Forstner bit. The holes were sanded and thin CA was wicked into all of the holes to harden the piece. Mounted on the fuse she looks great. You really need the aft hatch.

Unfortunately the rear engine cowl is to long for this motor. It's off by about 3/8 in[:@] Options are to leave it off or cut the aft end and add a ring of balsa to shape into something more presentable. Tell me what you think?? I do not want the engine on spacers as that will place that mass further aft.

Pete

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

The main gear were placed another problem. I used the template from the plans but the gear didn't line up so new holed were drilled. I don't think it will weaken the plate. Will fill with epoxy before final assembly. Flat spots were files on all the gear for the set screws and locktight applied. Up on here feet for the first time[&:] Thats an APC 10x7 prop on her and she has plenty of room for rotation.

Couldn't help but put the wing and canard on and see what she looks like.

Still working on engine cutoff issues. Spoke with Castle Creations and they think the pack will need about 10 to 15 cycles to stabilize and not have a current dip. I may need to call Thunder power and get some recommendations.

Covering to start this week.

Pete

Tequesta

Pete,

In the pictures the nose looks low. Is it the picture? I believe the plane needs to be level for ROG, it does not have enough elevator to over come the down force. My X-Wing will not ROG.

John

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

John,

Yes the nose is lower. The gear heights as per plans but the nosewheel is smaller and rear wheels larger to help with prop clearence. I too have the same reservations about being able to Rotate. Will continue as is and bring a larger nosewheel and or smaller main wheels to the field when I try to madien her. Final prop selection is still a work in progress. Reprogramming the Phoenix 45 fixed the cutoff issue. Now trying a couple of different props to compare performance to power consumption with the Whattmeter. Will also try to get a reasonable estimate of flight time.

Final sanding and filling is done. Ready for covering finally[sm=shades_smile.gif] Going on vacation in the AM for 10 days so will enter the final lap then.


Pete
Pete

Craig-RCU

Rocketman, you've got a really nice build going, but I do see a problem with prop clearance and nose down attitude. If you do have enough elevator to overcome the nose-down attitude, it will pop into the air very suddenly because the large amount of elevator throw needed to lift the nose off the ground to a level attitude will be way too much elevator from then on and you'll suddenly find yourself in a 45 degree climb before you can reduce elevator input.

Because the Tristar a pusher, it lands like a jet at 10-15 degrees AOA. So, I would also seriously consider moving the motor mount as far forward as possible. I have an O.S 25 fp on my Tristar swinging an 8" prop with about an inch clearance between the prop and ailerons. This allows great ground clearance for the prop and I never have to be concerned about ground contact. I guarantee that you won't regret added prop clearance on landing attempts. I believe that the battery and esc will fit in the belly pan and you said that the supplied cowl didn't fit to your liking anyway, so there isn't much to lose by moving the motor forward except maybe some nose-ballast needed to balance a more aft motor.

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Craig,

Thanks for the input. Had thought of mounting the motor inside the fuse with ducting to help with cooling. This can still be done with no problem just need to fabricate a new firewall. Will look at it with fresh eyes after vacation

Pete

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Well I took Craig's advice and placed the motor inside the fuse. It was way easier than I thought. Loosen the set screws on each end and with a jewelers mallet the shaft moved to the other end. Replaced the set screws with locktite and that's it. Did not need to fabricate another firewall the mounting screws lined up perfect. That left cooling the area as my last task. First I enlarged the former to the aft compartment by 2 cm with the Dremmel drum sander. Then with a 6mm punch I cut 3 holes in the fuse bottom and 2 in each side. The punch cuts balsa easy but I drilled the ply in the sides. I believe this should give enough added ventilation to the holes already in the firewall.

The covering is going well but It's my least favorite part of building. Only the fuse is left to do. Base covering is white with Red, Blue and Black trim details. Oh, did I say I hate to cover...

Looks like the APC 9x6 E prop is the winner. I have a 9x4.5 to test but the 9x6 gave the following #'s
1/4 throttle 3998 rpm's
1/2 throttle 6780 rpm's
3/4 throttle 8900 rpm's
full throttle 10700 rpm's

the power consumption was modest at 1/2 throttle with the pack lasting almost 14 min and included running up to full throttle several times to simulate doing loops and emmelman's . Amp's and Watt's were well under the limits of the components.

Pete

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Well I was about to cover the hatch and fuse and decided on the last mod for my TriStar. The Spring to hold the main hatch down will not work with my servo setup and I wasn't thrilled but the design to begin with. I can't remember where I read one of you loosing the main hatch cover in flight. So using 1/2 x 1/4 balsa and two 1/2 in 6-32 nylon screws I made a new anchoring system.

The 1/2x 1/4 balsa is cut to 1 3/16 in long. The "Tongues" were placed 1 inch forward of the hatch TE (or F4) Tristock was removed for them to seat tight and epoxied in place. To account for the thickness of the lite ply doubling inside the fuse they are thinned on that side for a snug fit. The ply had to be notched down to the edge of the balsa to make room as well. With the hatch fit adjusted tape it on tight. Measured the holes then drilled and tapped them for the 6-32 nylon screws. Everything taken apart and cleaned. The holes were hardened with thin CA as were the ends of the tongues to prevent splitting. re tapped the holes and it turned out great. Now to finish the covering.

Pete

slevin1

My Feedback: (23)

LOOKING GOOD!!!
Saul

Craig-RCU

Yes, looking very good!!! It was me that lost my hatch in flight. I had much the same problem with the kit's hatch hook interfering with the servos, so I designed my own "quick release" hatch mechanism. It lasted for many flights but finally gave out and the hatch flew off.

I've discovered some interesting flight characteristics of the Tri-Star in recent outings. I have the C.G. aft of the recommended spot which, to the best of my reconing, causes the main wing to stall before the canard during tight outside loops. When I perform a half outside loop (ending up inverted and nose into the wind) the result is a flat, vertical slow inverted decent. It looks like a flat spin but without the spinning. It really startled me at first. I'd never seen anything like it before and didn't know if I could recover from it. Luckily, I had no problem powering out in either a full outside loop, or a half inside loop. I'm still having a lot of fun exploring the potential of this plane. I've gotten more than a couple comments that this is the "best flying canard that I've seen."

Since you are at the covering stage, maybe you could update us on the scheme that you've chosen.

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Well the lines of the plane and the coolness factor call for USAF. ( Don't everyone groan at once ) Had thought about Sci Fi, Star Wars but the Thunderbird Scheme should adapt nice and I think it's within my ability to pull it off. The kit comes with a good supply of decals to boot.

Downloaded what is essentially a "flyaround" of the F 16 in colors.


Pete

dominic magri

im all for it... the plane looks great.

dominic

p.s.- if it makes you feel good, i bookmarked this thread

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Well I have to thank my Scrapbooking Queen for helping me find punches to make the stars. Fellas these scrapbook stores have gobs of stuff that can help covering a plane.

Took some time to get the curves right then a template and some TLC.

Pete

Tequesta

Pete,
Did you iron the red on, or glue? It is looking goooooood!!!

John

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Thanks,

Using Ultracoat works like a dream. [8D] (Former Monocoat user)

Working on the wing will post more soon. The thing about covering is that the more you do the more comfortable and better you get at working the covering around complex shapes. Being a little type A doesn't help either LOL.

Pete

slevin1

My Feedback: (23)

THAT LOOKS PHENOMINAL!!!!!!!!!!

Saul