Proctor Antic-Bipe build
03-24-2008, 01:45 PM
#51
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RE: Proctor Antic-Bipe build
I'd be interested in any results you get. Right now I'm busy trying to figure out why two parts of 30-minute epoxy "epoxy" won't dry without hardener. Ouch.
03-25-2008, 04:04 PM
#52
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RE: Proctor Antic-Bipe build
Vulturetec,
I used Minwax polystain on my Antic with Antique Solartex. You can just wipe it on and it will stain and finish the fabric with polyureathane.(very easy to do)
You can see pictures of mine on Proctors web site in the Photo Gallery under Antic pictures, page 2, 1/2 way down. I was after a varnished linen look & was pleased with how it turned out.
Yours is a beauty!
I used Minwax polystain on my Antic with Antique Solartex. You can just wipe it on and it will stain and finish the fabric with polyureathane.(very easy to do)
You can see pictures of mine on Proctors web site in the Photo Gallery under Antic pictures, page 2, 1/2 way down. I was after a varnished linen look & was pleased with how it turned out.
Yours is a beauty!
03-27-2008, 06:48 PM
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RE: Proctor Antic-Bipe build
Finally got rid of all the clamps, did some sanding and shaping, and finishing off the mount. Still have some finish work to do but it's almost done. Next week I'll do the ailerons.
All the blue tape was to make sure I didn't get epoxy-encrusted finger-prints on the wood. It worked, mostly!
All the blue tape was to make sure I didn't get epoxy-encrusted finger-prints on the wood. It worked, mostly!
04-02-2008, 09:16 AM
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RE: Proctor Antic-Bipe build
ORIGINAL: CrateCruncher
Reg,
I'm covering a plane in white Solartex. Any chance of that Minwax Polystain yellowing over time?
Reg,
I'm covering a plane in white Solartex. Any chance of that Minwax Polystain yellowing over time?
FWIW I think it will yellow. Heck, the clear comes out of the can yellow already. It looks great on wood though.
Another note, I used Minwax Spar Urethane semi-gloss spray on the open framework on the fuselage. I tested it quite a bit before I used it and fuel didn't touch it at all. I'm trying it on some test pieces of solartex now too.
04-02-2008, 01:42 PM
#59
RE: Proctor Antic-Bipe build
Great looking photo's Vulture. What's peeking out from the car cover?
I tried my tin of MINWAX "Fast-Drying" POLYURETHANE CLEAR SATIN on the white solartex a couple of days ago. It is an oil-based poly which I hear is good for fuel-proof and overall durability. It changed the bright white fabric to a warmer colored off-white. The new color reminds me of something one would use to paint their living room - it's acceptable. Oh, and about the fast drying part: it was still sticky 6 hours later (!) and didn't really become dry for 24. I'd hate to see the "slow-drying" stuff..
I tried my tin of MINWAX "Fast-Drying" POLYURETHANE CLEAR SATIN on the white solartex a couple of days ago. It is an oil-based poly which I hear is good for fuel-proof and overall durability. It changed the bright white fabric to a warmer colored off-white. The new color reminds me of something one would use to paint their living room - it's acceptable. Oh, and about the fast drying part: it was still sticky 6 hours later (!) and didn't really become dry for 24. I'd hate to see the "slow-drying" stuff..
04-02-2008, 06:38 PM
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RE: Proctor Antic-Bipe build
It's an old MG replica, I may take a picture of the two together one day 
I used Minwax Polyurethane on all my dark woods. Probably the same stuff you used, "fast drying" high-gloss clear. I usually give the first coat at least overnight to dry, usually a day. After the first coat I lightly sand with 320, wash, tack, and do another solid coat. The 2nd coat usually takes a few hours to get really set up (depending on how heavy the first one was). Any additional coats will usually take only a couple of hours to set up.
That's all on solid wood though...
The spray urethane I'm using on the fabric takes an hour or so to dry per coat.
I used Minwax Polyurethane on all my dark woods. Probably the same stuff you used, "fast drying" high-gloss clear. I usually give the first coat at least overnight to dry, usually a day. After the first coat I lightly sand with 320, wash, tack, and do another solid coat. The 2nd coat usually takes a few hours to get really set up (depending on how heavy the first one was). Any additional coats will usually take only a couple of hours to set up.
That's all on solid wood though...
The spray urethane I'm using on the fabric takes an hour or so to dry per coat.
04-04-2008, 06:13 AM
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RE: Proctor Antic-Bipe build
FYI - I just tried Minwax "Spar Urethane" Satin on a piece of stretched Solartex. It gives it a slight sheen, but it looks good. Haven't checked the "Satin" version to see how fuel proof it is, but the semi-gloss seemed impenetrable. Just like the brush-on stuff, the first coat took awhile to really get dry. It looked good with two light coats, but I finished with three on my test. More next week!
04-19-2008, 12:08 PM
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RE: Proctor Antic-Bipe build
Short update... completed (I hope) the aileron cables and servo...
The original kit calls for gluing a heavy pin bent into a sharp U to the trailing edge of the aileron at the third rib. I had other plans from the start, but after building everything I think the bent pin would have worked ok. Rather than gluing it to the fabric I made fittings from brass by bending them around a form, and securing them with a screw through the trailing edge. I used a piece of thin teflon tubing as a bearing between the trailing-edge and the fitting, then installed a cable interconnect as was originally on the plans.
The primary pull-cables are run from two wire hooks that go to the aileron servo, to the lower-wing bellcranks. The cable entry-point in the wing is reinforced with a sheet of plastic.
The upper-wing control cable crosses under the center section. The two halves link together with a bent wire hook supplied with the kit.
The original kit calls for gluing a heavy pin bent into a sharp U to the trailing edge of the aileron at the third rib. I had other plans from the start, but after building everything I think the bent pin would have worked ok. Rather than gluing it to the fabric I made fittings from brass by bending them around a form, and securing them with a screw through the trailing edge. I used a piece of thin teflon tubing as a bearing between the trailing-edge and the fitting, then installed a cable interconnect as was originally on the plans.
The primary pull-cables are run from two wire hooks that go to the aileron servo, to the lower-wing bellcranks. The cable entry-point in the wing is reinforced with a sheet of plastic.
The upper-wing control cable crosses under the center section. The two halves link together with a bent wire hook supplied with the kit.
04-19-2008, 04:40 PM
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RE: Proctor Antic-Bipe build
ORIGINAL: CrateCruncher
Beautiful work Vulture. I can't believe those decals were still usable. How long you think it will take to make it ready for flight at the field?
Beautiful work Vulture. I can't believe those decals were still usable. How long you think it will take to make it ready for flight at the field?
04-30-2008, 07:27 PM
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RE: Proctor Antic-Bipe build
Chugging right along...a somewhat inconsequential part, but I needed to add a pilot. The plans call for what looks like a 1/4-scale Williams Bros pilot. From my reading it looks like WB made pilots for, and were sold under Proctor's name at some point. In any event, I got my $8.50ish plastic pilot and went to work. It's been lots of years since I worked with plastic stuff, but I gave it a shot.
First problem: the danged pilot didn't fit the airplane. His shoulders are far too wide to fit the cockpit, and the 1/5-scale version looks tiny in comparison. So - I glued the pilot halves together and chopped his shoulders off with a band-saw, then added two balsa plugs (they go into the bust, not just glued on the outside), and finally roughly shaped them with a bandsaw and file:
After sanding, shaping, and fitting the plastic and balsa together I gave the balsa a couple coats of clear polyurethane to seal it up, primed, sanded, and gave a light tan base coat:
A couple evenings of off-and-on piddling with some paint and I'm just about done. The face looks pretty dark here. My goal was to make him look like he had a dirty face from flying ala WW1 movies. In better light it looks ok...whatever, it'll work!
...and of course in the airplane! Just need to add a strap to the goggles and give it a coat of clear.
First problem: the danged pilot didn't fit the airplane. His shoulders are far too wide to fit the cockpit, and the 1/5-scale version looks tiny in comparison. So - I glued the pilot halves together and chopped his shoulders off with a band-saw, then added two balsa plugs (they go into the bust, not just glued on the outside), and finally roughly shaped them with a bandsaw and file:
After sanding, shaping, and fitting the plastic and balsa together I gave the balsa a couple coats of clear polyurethane to seal it up, primed, sanded, and gave a light tan base coat:
A couple evenings of off-and-on piddling with some paint and I'm just about done. The face looks pretty dark here. My goal was to make him look like he had a dirty face from flying ala WW1 movies. In better light it looks ok...whatever, it'll work!
...and of course in the airplane! Just need to add a strap to the goggles and give it a coat of clear.
05-05-2008, 06:12 PM
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RE: Proctor Antic-Bipe build
Another of pilot - permanently installed in the read cockpit with a scarf, and a strap on the goggles:
Added the drag wires to both sets of wings. The wires loop through hooks that hook to loops of nylon line looped around a post at the front of the motor-mount.
Added the drag wires to both sets of wings. The wires loop through hooks that hook to loops of nylon line looped around a post at the front of the motor-mount.
