Balsa USA Phaeton, not II question?
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Balsa USA Phaeton, not II question?
I recently got some of my stuff out of storage and found an OLD Balsa USA Phaeton with the 48.5" wing. Now I have a few questions about the build. First off, should I rubber band the wings on like its made for or modify it for bolt on wings? Second, I've been told a .50-.60 would be a better choice than a 40-45 like the plans state. I have an old OS 45F I'd love to run on this since it's from the same time period. Is there anything else I should know about? I plan on doing a build log once I get it on the building board.
Thanks,
Tim
Thanks,
Tim
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RE: Balsa USA Phaeton, not II question?
Stay with the rubber band on wings. It is simple, quick, nostalgic and works very well.
I flew mine with an ST .40S. It was adequate power. I've seen Phaetons powered with baffle piston .60 size engines and they had a bit more vertical performance, which would be nice. But don't be shy of running the recommended engine size. It works fine for sport flying.
Be sure to set the model up with as much throw on the ailerons as you can get. Since the ailerons are only on the bottom wing, it needs all the help that it can get.
With my ST .40S, I had to make up a 5 oz. lead weight (cast it myself) to obtain proper balance. A nice heavy .60 would serve well in the nose if you decide to forsake the OS.45.
I miss my Phaeton and I'm looking for an old original kit of the model. It was a very endearing model.
Ed Cregger
I flew mine with an ST .40S. It was adequate power. I've seen Phaetons powered with baffle piston .60 size engines and they had a bit more vertical performance, which would be nice. But don't be shy of running the recommended engine size. It works fine for sport flying.
Be sure to set the model up with as much throw on the ailerons as you can get. Since the ailerons are only on the bottom wing, it needs all the help that it can get.
With my ST .40S, I had to make up a 5 oz. lead weight (cast it myself) to obtain proper balance. A nice heavy .60 would serve well in the nose if you decide to forsake the OS.45.
I miss my Phaeton and I'm looking for an old original kit of the model. It was a very endearing model.
Ed Cregger
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RE: Balsa USA Phaeton, not II question?
FWIW, I built mine w/o using rubberbands. I put a hardwood block in the top wings t/e, and threaded it 1/4-20 for the bolts. There is a "spreader-block" between the rear cabanas with 1/4" holes in it for the nylon bolts. The bolts go UP to bolt into the wings underside. On the front cabanas there is a set of "blind-nuts" and bolts that creates a sort of hinge when coupled with a pair of hard-wood pieces coming DOWN from the l/e underside. This makes it easy to adjust the incidence between the wings with thin shims. I also added some struts between the wings......a couple old stray-dogs just showed up, so I'll post some photos later. BTW, what ED said is right as rain! Mine flew fine with a Fox .40 but came alive with a .60! Much more fun and capable.
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RE: Balsa USA Phaeton, not II question?
Thanks for the idea on the wing bolts quepasa. I'm still undecided as to bolt the wings on or use rubber bands.
The only .60 I have from that era is an Enya 60 III that would need a strap on muffler. Or I could toss on a ST .75, but would rather put an engine from that time period on it instead.
Ed,
If you wish, I can copy my plans/ribs and send a copy to you. Might be easier than sourcing another kit.
The only .60 I have from that era is an Enya 60 III that would need a strap on muffler. Or I could toss on a ST .75, but would rather put an engine from that time period on it instead.
Ed,
If you wish, I can copy my plans/ribs and send a copy to you. Might be easier than sourcing another kit.
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RE: Balsa USA Phaeton, not II question?
If you don't mind running a bit of nose weight bolted to the firewall, the OS .45 will certainly be a lot more power than what my ST S.40 provided, and that was fine. While my ST .40S was a very easy starting and reliable engine, it was not the strongest sample of this engine that I have ever seen. My buddies was considerably more powerful. But mine was powerful enough to fly the Phaeton well.
The Enya .60 III would be a nice engine for it too.
One of the reasons that I needed so much nose weight on my Phaeton was because I was using a Kraft radio with KPS-15 servos. Those were of a hefty size and weight for the era, so today's standard servos might reduce the need for nose weight.
Ed Cregger
The Enya .60 III would be a nice engine for it too.
One of the reasons that I needed so much nose weight on my Phaeton was because I was using a Kraft radio with KPS-15 servos. Those were of a hefty size and weight for the era, so today's standard servos might reduce the need for nose weight.
Ed Cregger
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RE: Balsa USA Phaeton, not II question?
Yea Ed, I had almost a pound of lead in the nose of mine as well. Don't think the old Eagle baffel .60 weighed much more than the .40 and don't remember re-ballancing it when I swaped to the .60.
Anyway I personally would go with the .60 if all else is equal. I flew off of pretty rough grass fields and the .60 just had alot more authority everywhere than the .40 did. I'm planing to build a tow hook with release mechanism into the top wing for towing gliders this time around as well.
Timmy, would you mind looking at yer plans and telling me where the ballance point is measured from the leading edge?
I don't have my old plans anymore and am re-doing my old Phaeton as I write this. With the radial cowel, and OS-LA-.65 thats going on the nose I'm sure things have changed alot. I could use the ballance point showed on the plans for my Phaeton II but am not sure it would be accurate. To be honest, I didn't remember that this ole gal was designed for rubber bands. Its been a LONG time since I built this puppy![]
There is a thread in the Vintage section I started titled..."A Tale Of A Time Machine". Some photos of mine are there, and some photos of Black Drape's Phaeton II are also. Beautiful airplane! Q.
Anyway I personally would go with the .60 if all else is equal. I flew off of pretty rough grass fields and the .60 just had alot more authority everywhere than the .40 did. I'm planing to build a tow hook with release mechanism into the top wing for towing gliders this time around as well.
Timmy, would you mind looking at yer plans and telling me where the ballance point is measured from the leading edge?
I don't have my old plans anymore and am re-doing my old Phaeton as I write this. With the radial cowel, and OS-LA-.65 thats going on the nose I'm sure things have changed alot. I could use the ballance point showed on the plans for my Phaeton II but am not sure it would be accurate. To be honest, I didn't remember that this ole gal was designed for rubber bands. Its been a LONG time since I built this puppy![]
There is a thread in the Vintage section I started titled..."A Tale Of A Time Machine". Some photos of mine are there, and some photos of Black Drape's Phaeton II are also. Beautiful airplane! Q.
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RE: Balsa USA Phaeton, not II question?
ORIGINAL: timmy45140
Thanks for the idea on the wing bolts quepasa. I'm still undecided as to bolt the wings on or use rubber bands.
The only .60 I have from that era is an Enya 60 III that would need a strap on muffler. Or I could toss on a ST .75, but would rather put an engine from that time period on it instead.
Ed,
If you wish, I can copy my plans/ribs and send a copy to you. Might be easier than sourcing another kit.
Thanks for the idea on the wing bolts quepasa. I'm still undecided as to bolt the wings on or use rubber bands.
The only .60 I have from that era is an Enya 60 III that would need a strap on muffler. Or I could toss on a ST .75, but would rather put an engine from that time period on it instead.
Ed,
If you wish, I can copy my plans/ribs and send a copy to you. Might be easier than sourcing another kit.
-------------
I surely would appreciate it, Tim. Thanks for the offer. Check your PM box in a bit.
A bolt-on wing would be nice. However, with the small size of the assembled biplane, after checking all the screws and hardware inside of the model after the first few flights, I left mine assembled for most of the summer. I didn't feel like dealing with those rubber bands. So, now that it has been mentioned, I do agree that a bolt-on wing's convenience (and safety) outweighs preserving the original old timey look.
Ed Cregger
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RE: Balsa USA Phaeton, not II question?
ORIGINAL: quepasa
FWIW, I built mine w/o using rubberbands. I put a hardwood block in the top wings t/e, and threaded it 1/4-20 for the bolts. There is a "spreader-block" between the rear cabanas with 1/4" holes in it for the nylon bolts. The bolts go UP to bolt into the wings underside. On the front cabanas there is a set of "blind-nuts" and bolts that creates a sort of hinge when coupled with a pair of hard-wood pieces coming DOWN from the l/e underside. This makes it easy to adjust the incidence between the wings with thin shims. I also added some struts between the wings......a couple old stray-dogs just showed up, so I'll post some photos later. BTW, what ED said is right as rain! Mine flew fine with a Fox .40 but came alive with a .60! Much more fun and capable.
FWIW, I built mine w/o using rubberbands. I put a hardwood block in the top wings t/e, and threaded it 1/4-20 for the bolts. There is a "spreader-block" between the rear cabanas with 1/4" holes in it for the nylon bolts. The bolts go UP to bolt into the wings underside. On the front cabanas there is a set of "blind-nuts" and bolts that creates a sort of hinge when coupled with a pair of hard-wood pieces coming DOWN from the l/e underside. This makes it easy to adjust the incidence between the wings with thin shims. I also added some struts between the wings......a couple old stray-dogs just showed up, so I'll post some photos later. BTW, what ED said is right as rain! Mine flew fine with a Fox .40 but came alive with a .60! Much more fun and capable.
I'm building the exact same plane right now. As a matter of fact, I'm trying to decide how to bolt the top wing in place!
If you have any pictures, which explain the front mount, I would greatly appreciate it!
Thanks!
Jeff
Ok, I saw your other post and your pictures. I see what your talking about now. That's pretty slick and easy to do.
Thanks!
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RE: Balsa USA Phaeton, not II question?
I'll take some detailed close-ups and post em today for you.
Would you please look at the plans and advise the CG point for me?
Thanks! Q.
Would you please look at the plans and advise the CG point for me?
Thanks! Q.
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RE: Balsa USA Phaeton, not II question?
quepasa - The CG looks to be right at 2 3/8" from the leading edge on the top wing.
Ed- Give me about a week on the plans. I'm pretty busy right now. What format would be best sent digital?
Ed- Give me about a week on the plans. I'm pretty busy right now. What format would be best sent digital?
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RE: Balsa USA Phaeton, not II question?
Thanks Timmy!
Sorry I didn't post the photos.[&o] Had a guy tear an axle out from under a heavy-haul trailer and have been consumed with how & where to fix it. It might be a day or two before I can do the photos, but I'll get-r-done! Q.
Sorry I didn't post the photos.[&o] Had a guy tear an axle out from under a heavy-haul trailer and have been consumed with how & where to fix it. It might be a day or two before I can do the photos, but I'll get-r-done! Q.
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RE: Balsa USA Phaeton, not II question?
ORIGINAL: timmy45140
quepasa - The CG looks to be right at 2 3/8" from the leading edge on the top wing.
Ed- Give me about a week on the plans. I'm pretty busy right now. What format would be best sent digital?
quepasa - The CG looks to be right at 2 3/8" from the leading edge on the top wing.
Ed- Give me about a week on the plans. I'm pretty busy right now. What format would be best sent digital?
---------------
I'm not in a big hurry, Tim. Thanks for offering to do it. I'll cover any expenses incurred. Thanks.
Ed Cregger