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4*60 - 4-40 or 2-56 aileron pushrods?

Old 05-18-2008, 02:38 PM
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Appfan
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Default 4*60 - 4-40 or 2-56 aileron pushrods?

Ladies and Gentlemen:

I'm in the midst of fitting my ailerons on my 4*60 kit and have home to the bit where you attach the control rods to the clevis and servos. I had planned on using non-solder 2-56 threaded control rods, howerver I just realized that the instructions call for 4-40 size rods.

So my question is, will the 2-56 rods allow for too much flex during flight?

thanks!
Old 05-18-2008, 02:56 PM
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Default RE: 4*60 - 4-40 or 2-56 aileron pushrods?

No, the 4*60 needs the 4-40 rods. You can get by with 2-56 scrw ends on the push rods for elevator and rudder, but for the ailerons, use the 4-40 rods.

Use a soldered end. The #4 wire doesnt bend sharp so Z bends or even an L bend whith a keeper is out of the question in my mind. A soldered clevis and then a good threaded clevis on the other end works very well. It is actualy less work than bent rods and the results are far better mechanicaly and visually.

Don
Old 05-18-2008, 03:34 PM
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Default RE: 4*60 - 4-40 or 2-56 aileron pushrods?

What he said, 4-40 rods.
Old 05-18-2008, 03:57 PM
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Default RE: 4*60 - 4-40 or 2-56 aileron pushrods?

Thanks for the speedy replies. I had pretty much come to the same conclusion. After my original post, I took another look at the rods and the 2-56 have just a bit too much flex.

I remember reading somewhere about silver solder vs standard solder (60/40 Tin - Lead), however I don't remember the details. Will the 60/40 I've got handy work, or do I need to hunt down some silver solder?
Old 05-18-2008, 04:13 PM
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Default RE: 4*60 - 4-40 or 2-56 aileron pushrods?

Your solder will work fine. Us some Kestler paste flux and a minimum amount of solder. There shouldn't be any globs left over. When you make the solder joint, don't move anything for a couple minutes to let the solder harden without cracking. Clean off the flux with soap and water and then finish with acohol.

If you use "silver solder" you can just use the plumbing solder sold today. It is lead free and has a low silver content. As an ex jeweler, I have trouble with the term Silver Solder as it is used here. Silver solder is a "hard" solder, one that melts at a high temp, around 1250F. and actually aloys with the pieces being soldered. The Silver solder refered to here is a soft solder that melts at a few hundred degrees and only works like an adheasive, but a very strong one. It is the one you want for any soldering on our models.

Don
Old 05-18-2008, 04:52 PM
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Default RE: 4*60 - 4-40 or 2-56 aileron pushrods?

Thanks again.

Looks like I'll get to do some work soldering this evening.
Old 05-18-2008, 07:30 PM
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Default RE: 4*60 - 4-40 or 2-56 aileron pushrods?

A bit of advise. The aileron servos in the 4*60 are burried well in the wing. It is easy to get the horn a tooth off and to start with the servo not centered and end up with a short or if you are luck a long pushrod. I've done it to myself a couple times on two 4* builds.

Center the servo with your transmitter. If you have a computer transmitter, make sure both the trim and sub trim are at zero. Position the arm on the servo so it will ba at 90 degrees to the push rod line when the rod is attached to the servo and horn, an make sure the aileron is centered. Use some tape, clamps, what ever, but lock down an aileron centered. If you leave the screw out of the servo horn, there is enough room in the opening to pop the horn off the servo and jump a spline tooth. Don't worry about getting it all the way on, radial alignment is what is important.

Take your 4-40 rod and screw on a clevis to mid point in the thread adjustment. Clip it onto the aileron horn. Clip your solder clevis on the servo horn. Lay the 4-40 rod along the solder clevis and again make sure the servo arm is at 90 degrees to rod. If everything looks good, mark the rod where it would come out of the clevis, IE if you push the rod end into the clevis, when you first see it coming out the forked side is where you mark it.

Cut the rod at the mark and now with the clevises on the rod, checke everything for alignment again. 90 degrees on the servo arm and the aileron centered. When it looks good. cut a second rod the same length for the other side. It is easy to see when the rod it comming out of the clevis when soldering. You want just a nub of it showing. This will give you the maximum mechanical trim when you are soldered together.

By the way, if you are using two channels for the ailerons vs a Y cable, you will probably have to sub trim one servo the get both a the 90 degree point at the same time.

Good luck with your setup. I'm kind of envious of your plane. I totaled out my 4*60 three weekend back and I decided to go with a 3D Phenoix Fun star, a 40 sized 3d ARF. I maidened it today. The 52 four stroke sounds wimpy comparied to the bark of the 91 Four stroke on the 4*. I thought it wasn't running up right until I put a tach on it yesterday. Today, we had about 7mph straight down the runway. Take off was OK, but the first hit of aileron and I was rolling. What a hand full. When I finally landed, my blood pressure was up to about 200 over 150 and my pulse must have been hitting aroung 120. My knees were clattering like castenets. I got it down to a respectable landing, cleaned it up and went home. What a hand full after the 4*. I might just build another so I've got a something I can fly without fearing a trip to the ER . Something more agressive than the trainer but something solid. Enjoy your 4*. Send some photos.

Don

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