Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Heres a couple of pics of my last project a Topflight T-34 Mentor, I went with the scheme on the box for simplicity reasons. A fellow flyer handed me the kit,engine&muff, retracts, and cockpit kit, after some tradeing. The retracts are not the ones listed but they are the correct length and can have struts added, I also didn't do the gear doors what a PITA been there before *L*
Its powered with a GMS 120 2 stroke & pitts muff with one tube cut off flush and plugged then welded shut, that was the only way I could get it to clear the front nose gear,plus I figured it would need one pipe closed for tank pressure anyway. Not my choice of engines but again it was what came with it. I almost put a 91 FX in it but got to thinking 80 inch wing is alot of plane for a 91 to fly at my altitude, especially if it was on the heavy side of the scale. 10-14 lbs is the weight on the box.The plane come in at 9.5 lbs W/O any electronics. So i'm thinking complete it will be in the middle or just a tad under. Since i'm not really into these types of planes I'll more than likely put it up for sale here soon. It was a nice project to help pass away a some of the winter days, and I love to build anything that say's airplane on the box or from a pile of wood.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Fine looking flying machine. Are the lines auto trim tape??

UH34D

My Feedback: (3)

You sure did a nice job on that! Did you have any difficulty with painting or mounting the canopy?
Jim

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks guys, Yes I used 1/16" auto pin stripes, I have never got along to good with the TF panel line pen.
As far as the canopy went its a little tough because of the 2 pieces it comes in, but once its glued together things are as normal. Since I didnt want a gloss finish on the frame I painted the outside with a fuel proof paint I hope *L*

trumpteb

Nice work! I'm detailing my Mentor but have some "snags". Canopy: what color fuel prof paint; some say to paint from the inside using H2o based paint?? how did you "tape" to paint and what type of "masking tape" did you use; my results with the TP pen for lines and striping has been on the not to happy side so (and pardon the ignorance) what is an "auto pen striper"?
Jim

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

A person can paint the inside of the canopy but it leaves a shiny finish which works great on most models ,but over time the outside can become scratched and look less than pristine.I paint the outside on a plane like this useing a Alum paint such as Krylon which is not fuelproof but then I go over it with a semigloss to fuelproof it. Chevron paints makes it ,be sure to try it on a item thats of no importance to insure the paint is compatable. As far as a mask I again use a auto pinstripe and whats known as fine line masking tape. The auto pinstripe will go around the corners very well, just don't pull it to hard or it can come up when you don't want it to. Then go over the 1/4 inch tape with reg 3-M masking tape with the paper to fill in the windows.This also helps to hold the 1/4 inch tape down in place, stay back about 1/16 -1/8 from the edge next to the paint line . If the corner is to sharp to go around with tape I overlap it and crease the outline with my fingernail, then being very carefull I use a exacto to cut the tape to match and remove the excess. Both 3-M fine line 1/4 " tape and auto pin striping can be found at most autoparts stores I get mine at Checkers, 3-M is the only thing I will use as far as any masking tape goes. This is very important clean the item being painted with soap and waterand dry well before masking is started, Then as a final I use alcohol to prep the surface while wearing latex gloves to keep the oils from my skin away from the surface to be painted. I also use a can of compressed air to blow anything off,since the plastic gets a static charge on it and becomes a magnet for almost anything thats unwanted. Thinners or auto prep is to harsh for plastic and will destroy it.

As a final caution I have seen this happen a few times and I do not have a clue as to why. Say you have your part painted and think you have a good even coat, but only to find out the next day you have a light spot or two and decide to give it another coat to fix it, sounds good to me but sometimes if you wait to long even useing the same paint as before it will attack the first layers and create a mess you can't believe. So be sure to check it while the paint is stil fresh Top Flight paints is terrible at doing this

trumpteb

What on outstanding reply! Very detailed and well written. We have Auto-Parts and car-Quest stores but they should have the same items mentioned...This really solves my "what to do" problem and I'm ready to try it! Thanks again...

swixtt

hey cyber,
funny to find you here ... i'm just going to build a 34 this winter.

so what clear have you used other than chevron? i'm not familiar with that one. don't think we have that up here in canada. have you used the poly clear to protect it before?

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

I use a automotive clear thats compatable with the omni paint . Hey you can save some work this on is forsale just add a radio and balance.

swixtt

half the fun is gone if i buy one!! i enjoy the build!!

i'm sure you'll find a good home for it. why sell it? not sporty enough?

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

*L* Thats about it ,I like planes a little more acrobatic, Extra's and Edges.
The T-34 was something to keep me occupied during the winter while trying to heal up from surgery.
And I know what you mean about building is half the fun. On average I do about 10-12 planes each year and strive to make each one nicer than the last .
Anyway back to the mentor you will really enjoy the build, plus the side notes in the workbook is very enlightening about the plane.
But what is amazing is the fact the plane comes out very light for its size, even with a 120 2 Stroke 9.5lbs W/O electronics is outstounding for a 80 inch WS plane.