Building a 40 size (as a winter project, okay, I am getting started early) and am wondering if it is worth it to install flaps. I eventually want to build a 100" wingspan AT-6 Texan that will have flaps and retracts and am wondering if this is a good idea. I started flying in May and have had some success and a lot of failures, but that is how you learn also. Currently, I am repairing an Avistar, which I have had a lot of success with, and some failures.

Also, people mention sheeting the leading wing edges up to the main spar which I am thinking about doing. When you do this do you shave down the ribs in order to accommodate the sheeting or is another method better?

Thanks for your help

The T6 you mention is an ambitous project for someone new. Anyhow in answer to question about sheeting part of wing. Very good idea. To do so a very good and easy way is to cap strip the ribs to make them equal to sheeting. Use 1/4 inch wide cap strips same thickness of sheeting you use. On the size wing you contemplate I would use 3/32 caps

Lokidog,

I've had at least one 4* of each of the sizes offered.
I'm building a 120 rite now for winter use . My opinion
is that unless you want to experiment with different "stuff",
or to make yours different , build the plane pretty much
per the plans.

Sheeting the wing leading edge is alot of work for little
return. If you really want to beef up the plane then concentrate
on the landing gear area.

Also the AT-6 you mentioned has very little ,(if any) common ground
when compared to the 4*.


Regards,
Roby

No need for the flaps at all. The 4* will fly at a crawl all on its own.

Sheeting the wing can be a nice modification and I've done it on one. It absolutely isn't necessary though and if you are new to building I wouldn't bother. Build it according to the plans and instructions and you'll have a great little airplane.

In other words, if it aint broke don't fix it.

Thanks for the comment on the T-6. Before I jump into that particular project, I plan on building the House of Balsa 35" wingspan electric version of the T-6 to allow some practice, etc. Would you suggest I build other planes before getting into the big T-6, or is the flying experience the problem, or both? I think I am humble enough to listen to people especially that have seen my fly as to when to move up. Building a plane and not flying it a couple years to allow my skills to improve is fine. I realize I could build other planes...

Maybe I won't sheet the wings but I still would value the knowledge: do you shave down the rib to accommodate the strip then? Why not use a wider strip or is there a chance of splitting the sheeting?

Build the 4* just how it is, You need to practice you B-tt off before venturing into 100" texan. Don't have one but heard not the easiest to fly. I don't beleive the 4* is a plattform for simulating a texan for practice BUT the 4* is fun to fly and will give you much needed skills. If by chance you want to make it coser to a warbird-Take the dihedral out, clip one or two wing bays and let her rip. No-just fly it. Good luck with the texan-neat plane, love to have one.

The design of the four star wing doesn't allow for this aproach. You will end up with a ledge someplace along the way by trying this. The best approach is to modify that #4 ribs to match the #3 rib from the spar forward. You then have the decession of whether to keep the sub spars or not. If you do, you will need to cut each of the notches for them deeper by the thickness of the sheeting.

Given the tendency for the ribs to break while building, I'm sure this excersice will end in frustration for a new builder. As stated before, I would build to the plans and only re-enforce the landing gear mount plate and add a tri stock along the bottom of the fuseage in the firs bay behind the wing and the under the horz stab.

Flaps will give you fits with a 4*. The tend to float on landing anyway, so something else contributing to lift at that point will result in over running the landing strip and/or loss of control do to the lack of air speed over the surfaces.

Don

just came back from flying 4*40,
it doesnt need flaps, maybe if you want to make two aileron servo then flaprons...
but its really flying slow when you need it.
sheet the LE? what for?

Alex

I'm just finishing up A 4*60 right now, just ran out of one color so can't get it done yet, it is assembled though, just need to cover the front half of the top of the wing and do the trim. Great build by the way, very easy kit.
Wing sheeting is just for added strength for the crazy fools out there that like to pull high G's and odd stuff. I don't know anyone like that but I hear things.
Flaps?? No, just not needed, not even A little bit. However:::: if you have A nice big radio then by all means have fun with it. Flaperons and spoilerons are a kick to play with, you will have to add that second servo in the wings but it's well worth it. If you don't have A big radio then just leave it stock, it's really A fun plane no mater how you set it up.
The one mod I would make though is sheeting the top or turttle deck, either with 1/16 balsa or some 1/64 or 1/32 ply. The reason is you usually put the plane in A set up stand to assemble and you can break those nasty little deck stringers.
Don't ask how I know that!! Not to worry, A long CA tip and A stick to push it back into shape and it's good as new.
I have flown the AT-6 giant and there is nothing to even compare A 4* to the T-6. The T-6 will come in time but not any time soon. There are some nice looking 40 size T-6 ARFs but I haven't tried them. They would maybe be A good choice for your third plane if that's what you are shooting for.
Myself, it was the P-38 but over the years I have really backed off of big twins. Still haven't even flown A 38 yet but some of the electrics look pretty good.
For now enjoy your 4*, they are A great flying machine!!

4 *s can be built a lot of different ways. Here's a photo of my first one, pretty much stock. And a photo of my current one, highly modified.

Scott

I am just putting the finishing touches on my 4 * 60. I am doing the same thing you are, progressing to a bigger plane.

I am flying a PT-40 trainer now, and have some very well with it, next moving to the low wing tail dragger 4*, then to a .40 Corsair I have built, next will be a 90" Chipmunk with a 31 cc gas motor that was my project over the past two winters. From there I have not given it much thought, but maybe a big war bird.

I think it is all a progression as you get into more complex and scale aircraft.

If you decide to sheet the leading edge then this is how I did mine.

Using the W1 ribs as templates I sandwiched all the W2 ribs between them. I then used two short pieces of balsa to alighn all the ribs in the slots for the spars. Then just sand the W2 ribs until they have the same profile as the W1 ribs. Now you can sheet up to the main spar. If you cut the notch for the balsa spar deeper then you would be able to do this all wth one piece. I sheeted in two sections leading edge to balsa spar then balsa spar to main spar.

Why not give it a go - if it doesn't help the 4* it won't harm it either and it will help develop your sheeting skills.

Andrew, that really is A nice build and you look like you did the mods I wanted to do. I'm teaching my 13 year old student to build with this kit so I kept it simple for him.
As I said, the wing wasn't any big deal one way or the other but I sure wish now I would have done the turttle deck like that.
That sure came out nice!!!

Andrew: Great way to do that and well done by you. Works fine for barn door wing but not quite as well for wings with tapers. Tapered wings will probably benefit by cap strippng ribs beyond the leading edge sheeting, for simplicity.

Grey beard: Just thought this might be useful for you or anyone from time to time when desireing to sheet a curved surface. true sheeting can be bent around curves to a degree by wetting sheeting, ammonia, etc. However sometimes it may be compound curves. Not easily done by bending sheets. Therefore plank the area by by using narrow strips of desired thickness edge to edge. Similiar to the planked hull of a boat.Works very well and a plus is the glue adds to strength.

Sheeting, no problem, sheeting and glassing, no problem. Planking??? Well, some things should be left alone. I can get away with it but don't hide my giant tub of filler.