Any advise on how to do a good job covering the tail of the Elder? I am trying out different methods, but have not figured out anything that doesn't look like crap. I'm using flat Monokote. It's those darn ribs that throw me for a loop - if I attach the covering just to the ribs and the perimeter, there is no "rib effect" plus I'm worried about it being strong enough. If I try to stick the covering down in between the ribs as well, then I get all kinds of wrinkles since I can't stretch the covering very well in this case.

Can you post a pic of the uncovered tail?

can you use epoxy on the sticks or it has to be covered?
sorry for the dumb answer but it seems to me the tail is not covered...
Alex

I am 99% done with my first kit, the elder 40. I have asked a bunc of questions on here during the building process and have recieved a tremendous amount of help! When I covered mine, i decieded to use ultracote for the first time.I had used monokote to recover badly done arf's and they always looked horrible. When using the ultracote, I found that when I used the iron, it would stretch and conform to the shape of the ribs, leaving that classic look. I honestly think if I would have used monokote, I wouldnt have got this effect. Also, the ultrakote made covering the wingtips a breeze, a known diffulculty in this plane. Im not trying to sell you on UK but it made covering the plane a LOT easier.. Also I bought a heat gun to assist in the covering of this plane. I can get almost any wrinkle out of ANY type of covering with the gun.. it is an invaluable covering tool... Hope this helps

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Both coverings are excellent, aglaser. Monokote is a high temperature covering. The recommended ironing temp of 350 degrees Fahrenheit is right on the money. This would be too hot for Ultracote and would lead to many problems during application. Just as an iron that has been adjusted for Ultracote would not be hot enough to do a good job with Monokote. I find that Monokote is a bit more durable and less prone to fuel creep than Ultracote. However, with the proper application and precautions, both work very, very well. Buy yourself one of those little thermometers that are made for checking your covering iron's temp. They are extremely helpful.

Find a friend with a joiner/planer who will run some boards through the planing function. You need these ultra flat boards in order to make sanding blocks. Large sanding blocks should be moved in a circular motion over built-up stabilizer pieces. That will make the leading, trailing edge and the ribs all the same height. This makes covering much easier and better looking.

I find it best not to seal the plastic film covering to the ribs. Your structure should not be so weak that it depends upon the covering for strength. So don't worry about not sealing the film to the ribs. Don't be afraid to glue in some sheet balsa triangles at the rib joints if you are concerned with the stab's torsional rigidity or strength. Good luck.


Ed Cregger

In case this can be useful to anyone in the future, I'm going to post what I ended up doing. I first applied some Sig Stixit on the frame in-between the ribs so that the Monokote would stick down better. Then I stretched and stuck the covering around the edges - as you would do on a normal stab. After that, I stuck the covering down in between the ribs and finally to the ribs. Then it was shrunk down in the open area with the iron at a higher heat. I think it came out pretty well in the end.

Here's a pic of the vertical stab....