RedEDGE2k1

I have decided on my next plane to build the Great Planes Extra 300s.

Next question is, do I want to build the .40 size or the .60 size kit? My thoughts are the 40 will save space and money, but the .60 probably has better flying characteristics due to its size. However, I'm not sure how true that is.

Anyone have any thoughts on which one to go with? I live in the city and have to drive about 30 miles to my flying field, which is why I'm leaning towards the smaller model. However, the larger model is only 6" greater in wingspan. I can't decide!

Thanks!

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I've never built the 40 size, but I can say that the 60 size is one of the best building kits I've ever built. Excellent engineering and an outstanding flier.

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

I had the .40 kit, same build but slightly smaller, it all depends on what equipment you want to spring for, as size goes up so does the price for heavier duty servos, larger engine, ect,ect. they are only a few inches difference. So it's totally up to you.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Larger engine, yes. bigger servos, no.

I used standard Futaba servos in my 60

RedEDGE2k1

Do they have the same flight characteristics? If that's the case, then I'll definitely order the 40. If the 60 is more realistic, handles wind better, etc etc...then I'll go that route.

I'm just not sure how much difference the extra 6" span and 2lb weight of the 60 will make?

Thanks-

Deadeye

There is the maxim out there that bigger flies better. I have a friend with the 40, and it flies OK, but his is heavy and he needs to keep the speed up. My 60 size, on the other hand is capable of slow flight, high alpha manuevers. It flat spins like crazy, and with a Saito 125 stuffed in the nose, will rocket into the stratosphere.

Get the 60! You won't regret it!

RedEDGE2k1

Yeah, I'm leaning toward the .60 size now. Especially after reading the looong .60 build thread by another modeler here in the kits forum.

I read a post by one guy who said he put a smoke system in his .60 plane? That's awesome, I'd definitely like to add that to mine. I love the smoke when playing around on RealFlight. I imagine the .40 size wouldn't be able to handle the weight/size of the smoke system, with a .46fx that is.

So, now I'm looking into a .60 kit with Saito 100 4-stroke, smoke system, and 6ch radio. I'm reading up on all the mods people have made, including installing dual elevator servos in the far back of the fuselage to stiffen up the links, pull-pull high torque servo for the rudder, and increasing the elev/rudder sizes.

This is already a fun build and I don't even own anything yet!

Bass1

The Great Planes 60/90 size Extra 300S kit is a great plane (pun intended). I have alot of different size airplanes and I always bring my "Lil" Extra with me to the field especially when I haven't flown for awhile. I built this one in 2000 (after an 18 year RC layoff) and it's been flown a zillion times. It has an OS 91 4 stroke in it and the combo is super!! Build it light and you'll have a blast with it.

flyX

I've built both. They're both fun to build.
Both kits are not hard to build. That if you have experince building and know what you're doing.
GP kits are great.

Definitely. More fuel too.lol
If you ever moved from a .40 2 stroke to a .60. A .60 is a gas hog.lol
I installed an O.S. 1.20 in mine.
Of course when going to .60 size the power to wieght ratio swings in your favor.
Heavier model cuts through the wind better but still retains almost the same wing load or better.

The .40 is a lot easier to build because you don't have to build the airlerons or shape the leading edge.

You have to becareful when handling the .60's wing.

Both of the fuselage starts off as a box but on the .60 it require you to wet and wrap the fuselage at the landing gear area.
You need C clamps and patients.lol
The rear upper deck of the fuslege of the .60 also require you to glue the sheeting together first and sort of shape it at the rear.
You'll need to wet it and wrap it more.

It dosen't really cost that much more to build the .60. Aside from the kit itself and an extra roll of covering.

What actaully adds more money to building these types of kits is the darn paint for the wheel pants and cowling.lol
Of course you can't build a kit like this without a pilot figure and dying the canopy.
You gotta make the pilot's head trun with the rudder too.lol
And of course you can't slape the stock tail wheel on thar.

You can run smoke lines to the wing tips i suppose.

yeah...definitly do a shoping list when you order so you don't run to the LHS hobbie shop every other day and get nickle and dime to death.lol

Nice looking models guys.

Stripes

My Feedback: (19)

I built the 40 size this past winter and am unimpressed. Although I have it balanced at the specified CG it seems tail heavy and snaps easily. Very little elevator is needed for normal flight or maneuvers. The plane is very touchy. Flight testing of the CG reveals it to be right on. Yet, it noses over every time when landed on grass. So I moved the landing gear forward by about an inch. That is all you can move it due to the nature of the landing gear support structure. That didn't help much.

I have to say this plane is the weakest Great Planes offering I have ever made and it's entirely due to the nature of the landing gear setup and weight distribution. Fly it off a runway and you would probably be fine; in fact the one and only landing I have ever had that didn't nose over was landed on our runway. Why not fly it always like that you may ask. Well with so many other good fliers in my hanger why bother with a plane with issues.

Build the 60 size if you must choose between them.

jmv

Don't know if they are the same but I have the .40 size ARF version and it is a great flyer. It was my third plane after my trainer and low wing trainer and it has never given me any trouble. I've kept the elevator throw to a minimum and it doesn't have any snappy tendencies but will fly most any IMAC and 3D manuever in the book.

Mine also does not like grass runways (unless they are very smooth and short), and has a problem with nosing over while taxiing and on take off if you are not very careful. Landings haven't been as much of a problem. Handles very well on a paved runway however.

I'm sure the .60 size will fly great as well!

Good luck and have fun!

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I haven't seen A lot of difference in how any of the Extras fly, the smaller planes are just quicker when you do something. I have had the little 32 size and up to 40% and the big ones are just smoother, I don't know, I always say an Extra is an Extra and can't help but fly well! This is the little Goldburg Extra 60 size with the 68 inch wing. It seems to come out A bit, maybe A lot?? Heavier then the GP Extra but I really like them, I don't do 3-D so mine don't have to stay in one spot too long. I have used two engines on this one, an OS 1.20 pumper and the YS 1.20, both good for IMAC flying but not good enough for 3-D. One I built with the YS 1.40 Sport would hover but I thought it could still use some more beans under the hood. Both planes are A good build!!

jmv

Great looking Extra Graybeard! Love the Harley scheme.

Bass1

Man, I miss those huge dry lake beds to fly at.. and you can set up to always have a direct head wind!

brenthampton79

Well I am going to build the 60 size this winter, but to let you know I'm on the 4th extra 300 40 size and will hopefully build the 5th along side this winter with the 60, I am planning doing a few mods to my next 40 size extra, i've moded two of the previous, and now figured out which mods to do so hopefully I will have what I want out of it now. The current one the 4th is all stock except the tail I sheeted the horizontal with 1/32 sheeting for strength.

But I beleive that either one you can't go wrong, I obviously love the 40 so far!

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Harley isn't one of the planes I built, it's an older plane I have been flying after A good friend was no longer able to fly and he gave it to me. Well, he gave it to me after I was snivling and making little girlie noises because I built this one for A friend as A gift, he just got tired of hearing me cry and wine. After the maiden I didn't want to let this one go!! This is one with A YS 1.40 and would 3-D if you wanted, it flew perfect as you can tell from the grin on the new owner, Mr. Bud's, face. After we got home from the lake bed I put the wheel pants on it to dress it up some then sent him on his way back to Oregon with it. That's when I started moping around and sounding weenie and my old friend said to come and pick up old Harley. A bit heavier but it fly's just as well!!!! See, A story behind every plane!!

Deadeye

Gray Beard,
That's an Extra 260, isn't it? What kit?

Muroc1

The down side of that area is the wind seems like it is ALWAYS blowing. I miss the low humidity.

Great looking planes fellas. Very nice indeed. Someone mentioned a snap problem with the GP Extra 300. Is that really a problem with these?

Thanks,

Frank

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Goldburg Extra 300 kit. I do buy the aftermarket glass cowls and wheel pants for them though, I hate plastic.

Wind can be A problem here, like the last couple of days with the wind speed around 40mph with heavy gusts. I pull up my two weather pages and see what is is going to be before I bother going out, we have A live feed out of Boulder so we always know what the wind is going to be out there at El Dorado.

So far I have never owned or seen an Extra that snaps {beyond normal} at low speed for things like landing. I see people telling about how they will roll or snap with elevator input, any good stunt plane will if you have too much elevator throw, nothing new there. If it bothers you then there is A thing called low rate switch that fixes this little problem. All of my Extras tell me when they are flying too slow and are getting ready to snap on me, they rock there wings A little, that tells me to give it A bit more speed, no big deal. Try that with A CAP sometime.[&o] Extras are just very honest planes.Right now I'm putting together A 30% Extra that A friend just gave me, he was running out of hanger space!! This one is about the right size for me, not too big to haul like A 40% but big enough for me to see in the air.
Does it sound like I have A love thng going on with the Extras??

Muroc1

Gray Beard,

Thanks for the additional info on the snaps. Glad to hear it isn't an issue. I had planed on getting a GP Revolver, but these Extras look like a real nice plane.

Thanks again,

Frank

jmv

I can confirm what Graybeard has to say about the snaps. My .40 size GP Extra has no problems with unusual snappiness (is that a word?) and handles very well at low speeds and on landing.

SPLIT S

No problems with my Extra 40 size. Always flown from grass, never had issues with nosing over. Not that it can't happen but it wasn't something that was a problem. Handles beautifully in the air, makes me look like a better pilot than I am.

Dan

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Oh Dan, that is A nice cover job. I love to cover but as soon as I have to paint {like your cowl} my planes look like A 6 year old got ahold of some tape and paint!! Most people don't know how hard those simple looking checkers really are to do. Good job!!!

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

Hi, Just curious looking to build a GP Extra 300 40. Is a 2 stroke 45 too small for this plane. Thanks

Bass1

Since the "recommended" engines are for .40 to .51 2-strokers you are in good shape with your .45 splitting it right down the middle and at the same time keeping the weight and wing loading favorable for the airframe.