help with gluing fuselage
#1
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From: Hamilton,
OH
Hello all. I am currently building a Sig Kadet Mark II and I have a question.
I have just cut out the fuselage and am getting ready to put the framing down on the sheeting. Can I just use wood glue on this or should I use epoxy or CA? I understand I should use epoxy for high stress areas but is the fuselage body considered a high stress area? Thanks for the input.
I have just cut out the fuselage and am getting ready to put the framing down on the sheeting. Can I just use wood glue on this or should I use epoxy or CA? I understand I should use epoxy for high stress areas but is the fuselage body considered a high stress area? Thanks for the input.
#4
CA is 10 times faster if you can stand the smell. I like building, but I ain't got time to stand around and watch glue dry. It's about as interesting as watching the grass grow. I prefer CA on everything except the landing gear blocks, firewall, wing root and attaching the tail section. Those areas get 15 minute epoxy.
#5
ORIGINAL: hdwideglide03
Hello all. I am currently building a Sig Kadet Mark II and I have a question.
I have just cut out the fuselage and am getting ready to put the framing down on the sheeting. Can I just use wood glue on this or should I use epoxy or CA? I understand I should use epoxy for high stress areas but is the fuselage body considered a high stress area? Thanks for the input.
Hello all. I am currently building a Sig Kadet Mark II and I have a question.
I have just cut out the fuselage and am getting ready to put the framing down on the sheeting. Can I just use wood glue on this or should I use epoxy or CA? I understand I should use epoxy for high stress areas but is the fuselage body considered a high stress area? Thanks for the input.
Regards
#6
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: Don41
Strength wise, unless you make joints that fit very well, I suspect the normal slow drying wood glue is a better choice. Also, you should be careful where you use the CA. It leaves a hard joint that can't be sanded very well so try not to use it in exposed areas.
Regards
ORIGINAL: hdwideglide03
Hello all. I am currently building a Sig Kadet Mark II and I have a question.
I have just cut out the fuselage and am getting ready to put the framing down on the sheeting. Can I just use wood glue on this or should I use epoxy or CA? I understand I should use epoxy for high stress areas but is the fuselage body considered a high stress area? Thanks for the input.
Hello all. I am currently building a Sig Kadet Mark II and I have a question.
I have just cut out the fuselage and am getting ready to put the framing down on the sheeting. Can I just use wood glue on this or should I use epoxy or CA? I understand I should use epoxy for high stress areas but is the fuselage body considered a high stress area? Thanks for the input.
Regards
Don
PS, I've built all of my stuff since with Tight Bond. It takes a little longer to set up, but that time is recovered in the easy cleanup later. Just don't use to much. The first model I built after being away from the hobby for 40+ years had 3/32" balsa sides with a 1/32" ply doubler. I used the tight bond, way to much , attaching the doubler. It setup a warp that is still in the sides. I had to use a 8" C clamp to pull the sides to the formers. Like a lot of things, a little is good more is greif.
#8
ORIGINAL: Campgems
Try some 400 and 320 grit wet or dry glued to a sanding stick, 3M77 works well. It is so fine that it doesn't undercut the balsa very much but is agressive enough to cut the CA. I discovered this in a fit of desperation after building the wing of my first 4*60. I had not used CA before and I used way to much, running out onto the plan covering. Every corner had a razor sharp flashing. I tried about every thing I had in my arsnal and it a big arsnial. My old sanding sticks from when I was a jeweler came to mind and I gave one a try. It works as good a anything I've found. You just have to be careful not to press so hard that you dent the wood.
Don
PS, I've built all of my stuff since with Tight Bond. It takes a little longer to set up, but that time is recovered in the easy cleanup later. Just don't use to much. The first model I built after being away from the hobby for 40+ years had 3/32" balsa sides with a 1/32" ply doubler. I used the tight bond, way to much , attaching the doubler. It setup a warp that is still in the sides. I had to use a 8" C clamp to pull the sides to the formers. Like a lot of things, a little is good more is greif.
ORIGINAL: Don41
Strength wise, unless you make joints that fit very well, I suspect the normal slow drying wood glue is a better choice. Also, you should be careful where you use the CA. It leaves a hard joint that can't be sanded very well so try not to use it in exposed areas.
Regards
ORIGINAL: hdwideglide03
Hello all. I am currently building a Sig Kadet Mark II and I have a question.
I have just cut out the fuselage and am getting ready to put the framing down on the sheeting. Can I just use wood glue on this or should I use epoxy or CA? I understand I should use epoxy for high stress areas but is the fuselage body considered a high stress area? Thanks for the input.
Hello all. I am currently building a Sig Kadet Mark II and I have a question.
I have just cut out the fuselage and am getting ready to put the framing down on the sheeting. Can I just use wood glue on this or should I use epoxy or CA? I understand I should use epoxy for high stress areas but is the fuselage body considered a high stress area? Thanks for the input.
Regards
Don
PS, I've built all of my stuff since with Tight Bond. It takes a little longer to set up, but that time is recovered in the easy cleanup later. Just don't use to much. The first model I built after being away from the hobby for 40+ years had 3/32" balsa sides with a 1/32" ply doubler. I used the tight bond, way to much , attaching the doubler. It setup a warp that is still in the sides. I had to use a 8" C clamp to pull the sides to the formers. Like a lot of things, a little is good more is greif.




