GaryHarris

Long time CA user and when I needed something thicker with more adjust time, I just used Elmers wood glue. I mean, they are all the same right? Glue is glue!!! Well on the BUSA Eindecker 90 I'm building right now they call for some laminating and I messed up the first time I tried it. The CA set up too fast and I couldn't get the parts lined up.

Wow, this stuff is like magic. I can fill gaps easily and it dries alot faster than regular wood glue. And the cost, $3 for 8oz. [sm=thumbup.gif]

I'm a convert now. Ill only use CA if I absolutely have too! [:'(]

dignlivn

Gary


I agree, I used it on my Astro Hog .

Along with a small bottle of CA and Epoxy.


Bob

Smashmaster

I agree. I have been working on a Hog Bipe since september. I have used titebond on at least 90 % of it. It sands easy.
Can't beat it.

bigal126

My Feedback: (18)

I like gorilla brand wood glue. It's white and dries clear so when it dries you don't see the ugly yellow residue that titebond leaves. It does set up a tiny bit faster than titebond II though.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

Yep it takes all types to get the complete job. I use em all.

Campgems

I like the titebond also. Iuse about 5% water with glue for a bit better penetration.

For laminating though, you have to use it very spareling though. The watter content will cause warpage. My first build in 40 years called for 1/32" ply laminated to 3/32" balsa for a fuselage dubbler. I used straight titebond, but lots of it, andclamped things with 5/4 wood on both sides, The sides still came out like a bananna when I took the clamps off two days later. For laminating, keep the moisture down as best possible.

Don

*JCB*

My Feedback: (9)

get yourself a couple of these:

[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX9164&P=ML]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX9164&P=ML[/link]

ciscovet

I'm a new kit builder and am also using titebond II. I am waiting overnite for drying. Does anyone know how long it actually takes for the glue to dry completely?

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

Unless the glue is pooling up on your wood, Titebond should be dry in about 2 to 4 hours. Shorter time in dry climates, longer if moist. Run your finger along the joint...if it doesn't come off on your finger, it's dry.

You're just waiting for the water to evaporate out of the glue, it doesn't "cure" like epoxy.

Don

prgonzalez

I always refer to the clamping time, handling time, and cure time of the wood glues. I use Titebond with 10 mins clamping, wait 20 mins, and then I can continue working with the part including doing some sanding if required. It holds very well, no need to wait for days. Also use Elmers wood glue with 30 mins clamping time. This is harder to sanding but feels stronger. May be its just me.

For laminating, I wait a little longer due to warping issues. However, it is not necessary to bath the parts on glue. I spread the glue as much as I can and press clamp between two hard wood pieces obtaining a nice flat plywood.

My 2 cents.

Pedro

Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

The last time I laminated 1/32" plywood I used contact cement. Non water based. But you have only on chance to get it to line up.

Jim

ramboy

Is there any benefit to using Titebond III ?

SeamusG

Some time back I did a balsa-to-balsa test of glues - strength & sand-a-bility. Titebond & Titebond II had similar strength BUT Titebond (original formula) sanded MUCH easier. The II left a darker seam and when sanded it tended to roll up in the sand paper. Didn't try III. After I used Titebond II to add a 1/16" sheet to the top of a trailing edge (fixing a builder screw up [:'(]). After more than a day to dry I used a 24" sanding bar with 150 grit to shape the sheeting. I left it a full 1/16" one one edge and down to "nuthin" on the other edge. This resulted in exposing some "glue only" area. Titebond II was really nasty. I've since used Titebond (original) in a similar situation (no, builder didn't learn from previous screw-up). Sanding was much more successful and much less noticeable.

I have a bunch of q-tips with water available to clean up excess glue from the glued joints. I like to use fairly transparent covering so this is necessary whenever using wood glues. I know, this is at the cost of the added strength of the "never will totally harden" fillet that results by leaving the glue exposed around the joint.

There is SO much to know about the hobby!

1Knoxville

My Feedback: (1)

I really like using wood glue it give you plenty time to get alignment  right and its a huge cost savings I have tried Titebond II

foodstick

Like they used to say, Model airplane building is like a glue collecting hobby

vmsguy

My two cents.

Wood glues are wonderful for all the reasons stated above. I only use CA now for CA hinges.

But I must caution you. You must clamp, or at least weight your joints. Clamping is better, but if you can't clamp, then apply weight. Wood glues, especially when laminating, can tend to "float". And that is not a strong joint. Clamping is needed to squeeze the excess glue out and get you a good joint.

One can never have enough clamps.

And the clamps don't necessarily have to be "traditional".

SeamusG

vmsguy - thx for the pic of using rubber bands as clamps when gluing up the leading edge.

Yea, butt joints "float" - but dado joints don't. 

Skids-RCU

My Feedback: (5)

I'm almost on board with the yellow glue. I dug out several bottles I had purchased over the years including Titebond, Titebond II, and Elmer's Carpenter glue. As you mentioned, I think the key is in properly clamping the pieces together while the glue dries. Where did you purchase the clamps in your photo?

Also, what is the weight penalty in using yellow glue over CAs? Would you recommend using yellow glue on smaller RC planes (.25 Cu in and below)?

Thanks,

Skids

cutaway

If you're not slobbering it all over, the weight of aliphatic resins can be the same as CA. If I'm doing a super-light build, then I switch to something like Ambroid or SigMent and use that sparingly.

The real weight penalties usually come not from the glue, rather poor wood selection, insufficient sanding, etc.

chymas

My Feedback: (1)

With all those clamps the cost savings of the glue isn't really a savings is it?

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

I think the trick to laminating is not to smear a ton on and squeeze it out..

You want a uniform thin coat on both surfaces, let it get a little tacky then put the pieces together and apply even clamping pressure..
I like to clamp pieces between a couple strips of laminate flooring..

3/4 MDF culls protected with plastic would also work great.. Vacuum bagging would be the best..

heritageman

My Feedback: (4)

I don't feel that epoxies have a better hold than either. When properally used the wood glue has as good a strength as any epoxy. Whether using titebond ,elmers, and gorilla

vmsguy

I have no scientific evidence one way or 'tother. But I think the CA glues are a little more brittle then wood glues. When I pry apart a joint glued with CA all of a sudden it'll pop free, and break almost exactly along the joint line. When I pull apart a wood glue joint, one piece or the other will splinter.

SeamusG

Just a note about using Titebond and maybe it's consistent with all aliphatic resins (AR).

While building a balsa built up cowl I ended up exposing some glue joints - maybe 1/8" or so during the final shaping. These were butt joints that were sanded at an extreme angle that exposed nearly all of the joint. I tried to shrink some covering over the cowl and had to add quite a bit of heat. This high heat softened the AR. When I pulled up the film to reposition the film the AR came with the film rather than staying with the wood.

Guess what this says is heat will soften AR and loosen up the joints.

Just an observation - that's all. I use AR in many areas during a build.

drube

I'm one of those "over glue" guys..lol So how much glue is really needed? I'm using TiteBond ll, If you were to glue two pieces of 1"x1" together end to end how much glue would you use? Wouldthe amountbe the size of a dime or nickel? I must be using WAY to much because it takes alot longer than 20 min to dry. lol

Thanks