mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

something about pride going before a fall...
I have always taken a bit of pride in my deadstick abilities and over the past year marveled a bit at the number of planes that I've seen go in due to engine out situations. I think my last crash due to dead stick was sometime in the 90's.... and I've had a number of them since then. We took my 20 year old ultimate out of storage, put in an fs-120... man it felt good to be flying this plane again... all grins on flight 1. Flight 2 the engine died about 2 minutes in... due to wind conditions and positioning I had to make a down wind leg and miss some trees before I could try to cut back and make the field. On the initial down wind leg due to wind conditions my flight speed was a bit deceiving. I had significant ground speed, but I knew I had very little airspeed. I had about 100' of height though so I just kept the nose down and made sure the controls remained crisp ( no squishy stalling feelings... ) unfortunately I didn't feel like I could just land downwind and felt I needed to turn back into the wind and back towards the field before I got to the tree line.... , as soon as the wings were angled to turn I lost all lift and she dropped like a rock from about 25-30 feet up. levelling out and pointing the nose down produced nothing for lift, the wind just got on top of the wing and dropped it right into the ground.

mad at myself more than anything, i screwed up... although not sure I had many good choices. now I have some sticks to glue. the bottom wing is the most damaged. Will probably take me a month to get it back into shape.

this hobby will keep you humble....

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

Happens to all of us Matt and At least its repairable.

i dinged up my Super Stick two weeks ago while landing. Was a bit windy and from a direction i didn't like. Was landing while looking directly at the front of the plane and got to slow and it stalled. probably five foot drop.

I should have moved to a better vantange point so i could see just how fast the plane was going!

Bill S.

Garbyray

really sorry about that Matt. I did almost the same thing with my mustang, I was getting so proud of myself for landing smoothly and then one afternoon the wind decided to "humble" me. I don't know whats worse, the crash we know was our own fault or the one where you don't know what happened.

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

well... the first one you can at least learn from :-) things like radio failure you can't do much about.

Its all good... I'm upset but like was said... its very fixable. I also still have an un-opened full kit that I have on my to-build list so its far and away won't be the last ultimate I ever have.

mustang_fanatic

My Feedback: (14)

I have been flying mine for a year with a DLE 20. It is ballistic. Unlimited vertical. I have an 16 X 8 APC prop on it. The combination is so strong i have had the elevator almost flutter off of it. I added bracing on the tail surfaces to make it more solid. I could probably use a xoar 18 x 6 or 8. It is a blast. I do need to find a new canopy as mine has started to crack.

maekju

I also have a flutterproblem with my Ultimate. I have a YS 120 on it. It wasn’t there when I firstbuilt the model. I used metal clevises with nylon horns and have servos in thewings but there was still a bit of slop in the control surfaces but no flutterat high speeds. I took it to the field last week and flying level going fulltilt boogie I thought I had blurred vision. Both wings were fluttering likecrazy. I would have had a lawn dart if I didn’t slow down. I switched from themetal clevises to ball links and that tighten up the control surfaces quite abit but both wings still had flutter. I sealed the hinge lines and that tightenup the control surfaces even more but still had flutter. I never noticed thatthe pin that ran through the top wing was fitting loose and the top wing couldbe moved up and down a bit. I’m not sure but look like the rear hole in thecabanes is a bit elongated. I replaced the nylon tube in the top wing with abrass one that will accept a 3/32” music wire. I going to try it out today ortomorrow and see what happens. Anybody else had or heard of this problem?

punkindrublik

Got a few questions -

Are you hearing the flutter as well?? I know you said you could see it, but it should be loud.

Are your hinges still solid?

Do you have a vibration isolation engine mount?

Are you flying it any differently that you used to? Different prop? Has anything you can think of changed?

maekju

Think I figured it out. The eyelet that the nylon tube attached to fell out and I couldn't insert the pin. I replaced the nylon tube with a brass tube that had an inside diameter of 3/32" and used the original pin. The pin is 1/16" so there's room inside the brass tube that allows for some play. The holes in the cabanes do appear slightly worn cause when I insert the 1/16" pin there's a little play. I put the pin through the cabanes with the brass tube without the wing and wow there's a lot of slop. Well the brass tube is already installed so I'm going to use the correct size music wire and open the holes on the cabanes to accept it and see if everything tighten back up.
It would have been nice to attach the top wing like some of the other post I've seen but I was already to far into the build. If this doesn't work out, I may have no other choice but to perform some serious surgery and find an alternative way to attach the top wing.

stang151

Hey Guys, I was wondering if I could join The Brotherhood? I just started the tail of ,what will be my fourth 10-300 build. I have been reading this thread for several years now and it inspired me to drag out the kit I have had back under the bench. As I said this will be my fourth build (though i had a hand in another). The first was back in the day and had a K&B.61. I pulled the .61 out and put an early O.S. 120 FS in. Didn't have much luck with the 1.20 so sold the whole thing. Regreted selling the plane right afterward so went out and bought another ,this one and the next powered buy a Super Tigre G90. A friend framed up another and I covered and set this one up with a Y.S. .91. Wound up with this one after several years and a round about way, flew it for awhile and sold it to another friend. Anyway, Bought this kit from Tower several years ago (it is laser cut with routed ply.) and stashed it away. Don't know what eng .is going in it yet but will have glass cowl and alum. gear ( if I can't find a suitable carbon set for it ). I was wondering if I could get #151 Thanks . You guys keep up the great thread . I will try to post some pics. soon.

finalaproach

My Feedback: (6)

Guys, I just found this thread and would like to join The Brotherhood. I'm not sure how to post on here but i'll give it a go.

OK..That worked so now i'll edit my post and add more info.
This past Saturday i went to a swap meet taking along a high wing trainer for sale.
When i got there, i was bummed out as there wasn't a very big turnout.

Then all of a sudden the clouds parted and the RC Gods smiled down on me.
Standing on end behind a vendor table i spotted a large blue box.
YES! a new in the box Goldberg Ultimate ARF. (maybe i should call it new old stock)

I even managed to sell my 40 size trainer.
Just goes to show that you never know what you might happen at a swap meet

raubold

My Feedback: (156)

get a canopy for from Horizon for the 90 size Seagull, fits very well, i got me a stock since i blew one of with my DLE

N827TM

You can also get the exact parts from Fiberglass specialties. They have the canopy, cowling and wheel pants for the CG Ultimate Bipe.

http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/catalog.htm

Tom

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

not done yet, but feeling quite a bit better about things :-)

punkindrublik

I picked up a pair of the Seagull pants from HH for my Ultimate. Unfortunately, they're quite a bit bigger than the stock pants, so I'll probably get a set from Fiberglass Specialties...

abbott915

My Feedback: (1)

Hello everyone,

It's been a while since I posted on my progress, which has slowed. We are fostering 7 kittens for a while, so that has taken my time lately.

I have started a build with the parts that I've laid out in cadd, printed on paper, transferred to the wood and cut out by hand. My plan is to build one this way first, fix all the little tweaks that need tweaking, then send the cadd file to National Balsa for a laser cut kit and then assemble again to make sure it all goes together.

I have most of the lite ply parts done, but as I layout one part, I realize it needed to fit to another one, and then another one and down the line, so one little tweak with a part is a domino affect.

Question, should I post my build here, or would it be better to start a separate build thread.

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

I would like a separate build thread. Easier to find. Just my thought.
John

abbott915

My Feedback: (1)

Thinking about it, I think a separate thread would also be easier to find, so here is my start.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...300-build.html

maekju

Already Subscribed

SRQFlyer

My Feedback: (17)

Hi,
Just wondering if anyone has tracings, CAD drawings, scans, whatever of the bulkheads of the CG kit Ultimate - especially the firewall (don't ask why). Thanks in advance,
Jim

abbott915

My Feedback: (1)

Hi SRQFlyer,

Send me an email to [email protected]

I have what you need.

SRQFlyer

My Feedback: (17)

Abbott915,
Email sent. Thank you.
Jim

SRQFlyer

My Feedback: (17)

Just a quick note of thanks here for all to see to Jeff (Abbott915) for his perseverance in providing me with tracings and CAD drawings for the Ultimate parts. Now I can get "Mary Kay" back together again.
Thanks again to a good guy!
Jim

abbott915

My Feedback: (1)

Lots of people here have built this plane, and I have only built one. The wing saddle blocks are tapered, and not easy to make, or at least I haven't figured out an easy way to make them.

Is there any reason why the wing saddle blocks can't be 1/2 inch x 1 inch square blocks.

See the attached image for what I think would work.

I've updated the post to show the actual picture. This is the original construction process, but I don't see any reason why the wing bolt blocks that glue into the saddle need to be this shape.

Unfortunately, I just glued in the original shaped wing saddles to both sides, but am thinking of this modification

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

Other than weight savings… no need for the special shape.

stang151

I think the shape is so when you drill the holes for the wing mounting the tops of the holes come out on a flat surface for mounting the blind nuts .