bodybuildr

My Feedback: (44)

Thank you for the info and pictures! I am going to just run the exhaust out the bottom using the factory muffler. I am thinking about using a standoff type mount. I've always been a glow guy so this will be a learning experience. I am a Futaba guy so not sure how Ill set it up yet. Do you ever have any issues with the engine starting with the inverted set up?

mrjanshaz

No problems with inverted motors.I have 50cc, 30cc,and now the 20cc all inverted...excellent motors
Futaba recievers will all work with 2s lipo direct,but beware the same current will feed the servos, so you should have HV servos

bodybuildr

My Feedback: (44)

Why would I need HV servos? The ignition system on the dle 20 is operates from 4.8 to 8.4 . My s9001 servos operate on 4.8 to 6 volts. What is the reason I would want to run a 2s lipo? Realize I have bee away from the hobby for 20 years. I do understand you are talking about using 1 battery for the radio system and the ignition.

raubold

My Feedback: (156)

i run 6.6 volt LiFe, much more capacity with half the weight. modern servos have no trouble with that voltage.a fully charged 5 cell NiCad or NiMh has about 7.2 volts and are much heavier, i rather take advantage of the upper 6 volt range knowing that i can trust them for the last couple years with no memory effects and still having a charge after month of not being used. to the 9001's, they are pretty much outdated regards torque and gear trains looking at more prcise digital stuff theses days,not to mention Metal gears only with Gasoline

bodybuildr

My Feedback: (44)

Why only metal gears with gasoline engines?

mrjanshaz

He He...Gettng a bit confusing,isnt it...I wil try make it simple..
My other aircraft use normal servos ca..4,6 to 6 volt with a mix of plastic and metal gears,(servos can get expensive).Then i use a 2s lipo for reciever with a stepdown, (bec), to 6 volt.All servos run on 6 volt.
My ignition (the older ones) only manage 6 volt ,so i use a seperate 2s lipo to a RCEXL ignition kill switch to a BEC stepdown to 6 volt, .......(more electronic = more failure possibilities)

Whatever current you pass through a reciever (please not more than 8.4 volt 2s) will pass the same current through to your servos,,eg 8.4 volt..(normal servos will not handle 8.4 volt,,,,maby 7,4,but not a fully charged lipo 2s...That is why a HV servo will suffice because they can accomodate 8.4 volt..

As Raubold suggest he uses another type of battery with different max current (sounds interesting,must look into it) ,this is your choice .I use lipo because it is cheap and easily available where i live.

Keep the electronics simple(less failure) and light with less cable spaggetti.
Ps...digital servos are for people that want speedy servos (pros) Analogue servos suffice me just fine.......Most HV servos are digital these days anyway...Im using 2x 7kg sevo on bipe wings and 1x15kg on rudder and 1x15kg on elevator...
Cheers...Jan

raubold

My Feedback: (156)

because of slightly stronger harmonics going thru you airframe, still your choice, but safer and longevity with metal gears, not to mention the 9001's are close to be called Dinosaurs with the modern 2.4 Ghz technology, i would take advantage of the higher precision and faster response to all digital and you find out that will have completely different and more connected feel to the Plane/s you fly

Buzz-RCU

Jesus. I would like to join the Brotherhood.

Buzz

vogelm1

My Feedback: (1)

Jesus - may I join the brotherhood? I recently acquired an Ultimate kit and have a Saito FG-21 that I plan to mount up front. Thanks much.

peternj

My Feedback: (5)

Does anyone have a laser cut file for the ultimate. I submitted electronic plans to the forum and I think one of the members was going to convert them to cad for cutting.

thank you in advance

jescardin

My Feedback: (1)

We do wellcome two new member friends to the Carl Goldberg Ultimate brotherhood!.

"Buzz-RCU" your brotherhood number is # 122 and you may include it within your RC Universe firm so it will be shown on every post you write.

"vogelm1" your brotherhood number is # 123 and you may include it within your RC Universe firm so it will be shown on every post you write.

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dickster

I have one nib, and I am looking at engine options. I prefer gas these days, but what would be the engine of choice now? Would a twin fit in the cowl? Would a dle20 give unlimited vertical?

thanks, and please add me to the brotherhood!!

jescardin

My Feedback: (1)

Rich you are, of course, more than welcome to this Carl Goldberg Ultimate brotherhood!.

Your brotherhood number is # 124 and you may include it within your RC Universe firm so it will be shown on every post you write.

Regarding engine options and as I already explained before, I limit my experience with the ARF version (a little heavier than the kit) to an O.S. 120FS first version which gave limited performance and now an O.S. 120AX two stroke which give unlimited performance although sure a bit below 3D requirements. You know that gas engines are heavier and give less power than equivalent glow so for unlimited vertical performance I should opt for something just over a 20cc if you go the gas route. Of course twin gas engines perform even worst and if this is your preference you should seek for something never smaller that a 33-35cc.

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JohnMcGowan # 02
Cub Man # 03
DanS # 04
u2builder # 05
CRJDriver # 06
alfredbmor # 07
captinjohn # 08
yekots # 09
everwood # 10
JNorton # 11
Tailskid # 12
Crash Campbell # 13
frequent flyer # 14
daveopam # 15
VCScott # 16
PropWash # 17
eaticus # 18
mistermnkim # 19
Zebra One # 20
JimboGreek # 21
tony 0707 # 22
pushinoldrc # 23
bigal126 # 24
Steve Campbell # 25
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Revy # 27
twn # 28
vt-flier # 29
rk2648 # 30
Francisco Ortiz # 31
JohnB 96041 # 32
David Agar # 33
IMaflyer # 34
Reefrus # 35
Jduran157 # 36
Bipeguy03 # 37
SRQFlyer # 38
Charlie111 # 39
Flygilmore # 40
Falling leaf # 41
ericzombie # 42
Pacomb # 43
Atlanta 60 # 44
Gunneredwards # 45
braddock VC # 46
Cyberfyn # 47
Mrshea # 48
Peternj # 49
WarbirdAirRacer # 50
Abbott915 # 51
ArcticCatRider # 52
THEJADEGROUP # 53
Jjoos99 # 54
MajorTomski # 55
Twin Flyer # 56
72 #57
George Waldrop #58
TripleDeucer # 59
Johnny Zero # 60
Garthwood # 61
Moeandicy # 62
stefanP # 63
Helichong # 64
Jsarsonj # 65
andizzle # 66
Killionaire # 67
OntAeronut # 68
drbenz # 69
Eddie James # 70
CanDo # 71
Thunderbolt P47 # 72
KC10Chief # 73
TheGreatBoo # 74
Noginblue # 75
boisebiker # 76
J. Paul Saure # 77
Acrostar # 78
sirzepp # 79
Kconn3 # 80
suburban95 # 81
BigTom802l # 82
Gary Binnie # 83
dmarusa # 84
westernstar # 85
scale only 4 me # 86
thisstrangeengine # 87
smkrcflyer # 88
mikmerl # 89
kwg # 90
pt19 flyer # 91
thnilsen # 92
nick1881 # 93
jescardin # 94
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Knight_74 # 99
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jglemba # 105
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drac1 # 116
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hakesm # 118
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tim allen # 120
tejasnumu # 121
Buzz-RCU # 122
vogelm1 # 123
dickster # 124

dickster

Thanks. Wow, I was looking at the 75AX! The DLE 20 is being used by some, does that not give unlimited vertical ?

And are are you having to add lead to the nose to balance? The DLE is fairly light, but I would be reluctant to go bigger than the 20 - although the DA 35 is not THAT heavy! 100g's more than your 120AX. There is not much choice in petrol around the 25cc size. Perhaps the OSgt22.

dickster

Looking at the numbers, the DLE20ra is lighter than the 120fs the kit was designed for, and with static thrust around 13lb, should give very good vertical performance - the kit should be no more than 8.5lb.

dickster

Can anyone tell me the width of the cowl through the centre of the crankshaft? I'm looking at whether motors will fit inside the cowl sidewinder fashion..

much appreciated.

CJKling

My Feedback: (1)

Does anyone have a kit they're looking to part with?

acdii

I saw one of these at the Toledo swap, looked like the builder did a nice job, and had an OS 120 in it.

dickster

The cowl appears to be 180mm at the bulkhead.

After much thought and research I have pretty much decided on the Laser 155fs. It has very similar power to the 120AX, do any of you guys using the 120AX experience any structural issues with this much power? I have been warned about the tail coming off in full power dives!

jescardin

My Feedback: (1)

Rich I didnīt need any ballast with either the 120FS nor the 120AX. Also I didnīt suffered any damage to the tail surfaces but I have to clarify that I installed some brass tube reinforcements from horizontal stabilizers to the fuselage bottom when I assembled the model.

What I have suffered is the central up wing support to fail twice (both times the front left vertical member), breaking at the screw base and one even breaking the screw head.

At this moment I have the plane grounded for a security overhauling and repairing this issue again. I suspect this is due to vibration but I carefully balance propellers and I do not seen a noticeable vibration level when on the ground so as to explain this.

Best Regards,

dickster

Thanks for the response. I see, you braced the tail? I was thinking of adding wires, top and bottom, just for some insurance. I may add some carbon to strengthen in places. It sounds as though it should balance with the 155 then, did you put any servos in the tail? And how many aileron servos did you use? I was thinking perhaps one per aileron? And one per elevator half.

I also read it's a good idea to seal all surfaces.

vogelm1

My Feedback: (1)

CJ - these are getting tougher to find, but they're out there. Recently there were a few all at once on eBay - good place to watch. But they go for high dollar... one was over $300 (with shipping) when the auction ended! I have two stashed away but can't part with one just yet.

dickster

I've checked the manual and there is no recommendation for glues to use, any thoughts on this? The fuselage is assembled dry, so I guess thin cyno on this?

much appreciated.

vogelm1

My Feedback: (1)

Double-check that the fuse is square, then begin tacking corner joints with thick CA. I agree with you, no thin CA on ply parts. I typically run a bead of medium/thick CA along each fuse seam and around all the formers.

raubold

My Feedback: (156)

have one with DLE 20 for 6 years, mild/wild 3D no problems, you want to beat an F18 climbing, nope not gonna happen, still competes with the former YS120 (older version) by saving 9 ounce total with a 6 oz tank on CG,i never will drop this plane, have replacement in case i do stupid
To the DLE, the stock muffler kills 600 rpm against a WWRC inverted muffler and has a much lower tone as well wit a 17X6 XOAR