stang151

He would be the one. As I said I don't know if he still has it or what happened to it , as is been a few years.

vdubin64

My Feedback: (3)

Great.. Thanks for the reply.. I do have a friend in the club who knows Rick..

I'll send him a message to get in contact..

Thanks a bunch for the help and the picture upload..

She's a great looking airplane..

stang151

Yes , let me know what you find out , it was a sweet flyer the short time I had it . It was a group project, one friend of mine framed it up , I covered it (except for the CF sticker) and the owner put in the engine and radio. He flew it for several months then sold it. Went through several owners over the years till Rick bought it.

vdubin64

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks a bunch for the info.. I've already messaged my club buddy.. I'll let you know, what info I get back in return..
Hopefully, he'll part with it.. That's neat (how it was a group effort)..

stang151

My current ride.

vdubin64

My Feedback: (3)

Wow, that's a pretty one!!

stang151

Thanks, she flys as good as she looks (don't they all). This is my fourth or fifth G/C Ultimate( lost track). Never be without one!

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I've never flown a bad one and I would estimate 20+ different ones over the years.

"Thanks, she flys as good as she looks (don't they all)"

David

jeep36

May I have a brotherhood number? I have a CG ultimate that I fly and I have a kit in the rafters. I have a OS FS1.20 in mine, also bought the graph tech landing gear. I read this whol;e thread a few years ago and PeterNJ sent me the files for the formers and ribs. Love this plane.

acdii

I'm in the process of creating a short kit based off the plans and remnants of my crashed one. If you were to build it, would you prefer wing servo mounts, or the traditional center mount?

Since the front half of mine is splintered, I am also redesigning the fuse sides and top to be 2 piece instead of 1 for two reasons, first limitation of the bed on my laser, though I could do passthrough stepping, but would require a jog, and also to reduce shipping costs since they are 42" long, would require 44-48" long boxes, and when boxes get to that length, the shipping goes way up even if they weigh no more than 4 pounds. The fuse sides and top will be two pieces that interlock with a third piece as a doubler that bonds the two parts together. This method works well in many kits, so would not be an issue with this plane either. It will actually be stronger in that area where the wing and cabin meet.

I have the ribs all done, but if I were to create a bottom wing servo bay, it would be two additional plywood ribs to replace the lower R6 ribs, which would be notched for the servo hatch rails. What do you guys think, would that work for you instead of the angled plywood mount for the bellcrank? I will have a hatch cover that blends in with the slot for the arm that will align with the aileron link. It will be a drop in.

jeep36

I like the "wing servo mounts" My GP WACO has 4 of them and my Ultimate uses 2. easy to set up and adjust. your other ideas sound interesting id say try it out.

acdii

Aside from what I pointed out, anyone else see any areas of improvement that can be made? Adding a second elevator servo to the servo tray? Mounts in the formers for guide tubes? I bought mine already built, mainly for the Gemini II 120 it had, and only got to fly it a couple times before the throttle arm came loose after takeoff, so I didn't build this one.

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

I like the wing servo mounts also.

stang151

I think the wing servo mounts are best also. Putting the elevator servos at the rear of the fuse would also be a good idea, to counter the weight of the larger motors.

acdii

That can be done too, I will add it to the list. Now that I think about it, I did need tail weight for the OS Gemini. Two servos in the front, two in the rear? I know, I will add mounts in the rear for two and four at the front. Give flexibility for choice. Maybe two in the rear would be too heavy for some, but not others and they can have one servo in the tail for the rudder and two for the elevator up front. and more on the CG line too. Always good to have options.

jescardin

My Feedback: (1)

"jeep36" thanks for your interest on the CG Ultimate, whether kit or ARF, and you are more than wellcome to the Brotherhood. You are assigned number #139 and we all would love to see photos of your Ultimates!

Best Regards.

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Cabane

My Feedback: (2)

What are these kits going for nowadays? I have one I'm thinking of selling.

tia

acdii

You get whatever someone is willing to pay for it. Since I have a copy of the plans and hand drawn templates, I have enough to craft my own, so for me the kit isn't worth as much as it would be for someone who doesn't have a laser or who can skillfully make the parts from sheet goods.

pacomb

I too have the plans scanned years ago, just in case I damaged the original paper ones. But I was not clever enough to copy or scan the pieces. Making parts from the plan is more difficult than from scanned images of the real parts.

Could it be possible for you to scan the templates and post them?? that way it will be more easy.

Paco

Cabane

My Feedback: (2)

I'll go to fleabay and see what market can bare. I was thinking $300 plus the shipping .

acdii

https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=5496


That sounds like a reasonable price.

pacomb

My original CG Ultimate, has the classic piano wire landing gear. I have 4mm aluminum sheet to make a new one as I dont like the idea of 4mm piano wire entering the fuselage, and destroying the fuselage in case of hard landing. I rather prefer the aluminum landing gear with 4 plastic screws

Could someone post some images of the aluminum landing gear version, and how it is attached to the fuselage?

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

acdii, mount the servos in the lower wing for sure. It's a much better setup. Think about mounting to micro servos in the tail instead of mounting a second in the wing area. Although I flew every one I've owned VERY hard. Using the Dave Brown split push rod system never gave me any trouble. Only area I would make stronger is the upper cabane mount area. I broke one in the air doing a Blender. Blenders with these are unbelievably fast and it was to much for the ply in that area.

David

got2retire

I'm at cornerstone, too many kits to be built given my age and time left.....Thus, I need to make some hard decisions!

I inherited a Balsa USA Phaeton (all it needed was a new battery). Flew it once, didn't like how it flew, handled or responded. Gave it away. However, I have always thought I'd like to have a biplane, so I acquired 5 kits over the years. (Goldberg 10-300, Great Planes Skybolt, Sig Liberty Sport, Royal P6E and lastly a Great Planes Super Aeromaster).
The Ultimate seems to be quite popular, but the kit I bought is just the wood (all the other parts where missing, (who knew). The missing stuff is obtainable.

Need some advice... Is the Ultimate (in it's condition) worth buying with the missing stuff? Or should I move on and build one of the others?

Got2retire

acdii

The Liberty Sport is old school build, Sheets and sticks and very few cut parts, die crushed, no laser, I completed the LS last year, took 2 years to build and used cloth and dope so it looked right. The wind tips, rudder, elevator are laminated strips on the LS. The 10-300 is an easy build. I could knock the 10-300 out in just a few months. The thing with missing pieces though could make it difficult since you will have to scratch make the cabanes that connects the upper wing. As far as the others go, not familiar with them, but check the manual to see how they are constructed.

Heres my LS build if interested.