RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Ben, also on the hinge slot machine, mark the locations and take your hobby knife and make a slit where you can place the hinge blades to start with into the wood.. By having the slot, it stops the cutters from jumping around when you start it up...This is the best luck I have with it... Love the slot machine for this funtion!
Terry B.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Still chippin away at the 47.. got the flap servos mounted and working just great. As mentioned before, I did not like the idea of mounting the servo to the cover door and trying to adjust the linkage that was inside so this is the finished result of the Servo trays I built. The rails are epoxyed to the wing skin and ribs, the four screws showing let you take the plywood shelf out for service. This system will allow you to adjust everything and then put the cover on..I am cutting on the cowling tonite, got one rocker arm cover hole made , starting on the other.....slowly but surely. keep working keep working! Post something! T

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Terry, Thanks for the tip...

Wow what a time saver that slot machine is! Made 12 slots, 6 in the stab and 3 in each elevator in just a few minutes... A couple are a teeny bit crooked, but all in all I'm happy!

Here are a few pics...

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Sorry I didn't get any progress done on the fiberglass other than the ailerons and the flaps. I ended up deiding to take a small break from it, so I ordered my new T-Rex 550E flybarless heli which I just finished setting up tonight. I will try and get some work done on my bird between now and may 6th but not sure how much will get done have my sons birthday, holidays and military obligations to do in the next 3 weeks then on the 6th or so I have my annual training so wont be home for 2 weeks. But I will try and get somethings done between now and AT and post pics as I go.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Keep an eye on the the slots you cut. I found with mine the blades quickly become bad and start to cut away from each other creating an ovaled hole on the inside that you can't see. Periodically cut a test slot in some scrap so you know when to replace them...

You guys are producing some awesome work!!!

I almost dropped the buck on another topflite p47 but I work insane hours now and just dont have the time to build. I decided to go with a esm 71" p47 arf and a dle30. My hobby guy is looking to carry the esm line. You can view them at troybuilt models. I'll probably start the p47 this coming winter. I gotta finish my 30% Pilot-rc Yak54. I will be flying the yak this sumer, along with my 30% extra 260...

Here are some pics of my toplfite p47 build. Oh and btw when you go to glass your plane use a roller! I tried it with mine and WOW next to nothing for sanding, the roller did a beautiful job!

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Wow Tom, that is great work.. explain this roller system you used to make the wing look that smooth.. GREAT WORK . Also, explain the panel lines I see in your primer.. Looking good! Thanks so much for the pictures! Keep em comming! I worked on my fus strips some today but not much progress.. Every take care!
Terry B

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Goran,
We'll try and keep the thread going while you are away... :) Keep up the good work!

Tom,
Thanks for the heads up with the blades...

Build well!

Ben

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Well, I was originally gonna spray the stripes on the fus and the Side vents, but after discovering that the vents would be both black and silver colors I decided to cover them, I got the fus strips put on and normally I would do this on bare wood but since the silver was already on, I just applied the black over the silver with low heat and worked the temp up with each pass.. I applied the stars and bars by placing them with masking tape (Straight and centered) then sprayed the fus with wendex, raised the star up to peel off the paper back, lowered the star to the covered fus, made sure all was straight and then started rubbing the liquid out from under the decal with a folded paper towel from the center out only. DO NOT wipe the reverse direction across the edge of the decal, your paper towel will raise the edge and stick to the glue on the decal.. One direction, center out all directions like a sunburst...Thanks and post something..

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

For panel lines I used 1/64” vinyl tape. The stuff you get from craft stores for doing raised letter head on paper. I can’t remember the specific name. If I remember I will post it here. But the vinyl separates nicely from the paint. Once you have your first coat of VERY thin primer (filler type) covering the whole plane (of course you sand most of it off as the first coat is just to fill scratches) then you tape out the panel lines, spray over the lined areas, lightly sand JUST down to the tape, remove the tape and presto panel lines… For the bigger shapes I used black electricians tape and cut to what I needed.

If you go this route watch how much paint you use. All you need it 2-3 coats to be effective as the primer gets heavy…

With the roller I used 3m spray glue (very light mist) on the wing and then pressed the fiberglass down so it held itself over the difficult areas like wing tips. Then I used zpoxy finishing resin with a 4” foam roller cut down to 2” (the foam soaks up a lot of expensive resin…) and rolled out each side of the wing separately. It took 3 applications to JUST fill the weave. I used .5oz cloth. I don’t use thinned out epoxy I have had rubbery experiences that way. I used 100 grit for a very light scuff between coats, just to knock down the bumps. Finished up with 220 then primed to fill the scratches and used 320 prior to final priming

I did the fuselage the normal way with playing cards and chucks of fiberglass. The sanding took FOREVER to smooth out and I went through the fiberglass in places during the sanding. The roller way is the best!!


BTW Terry, your covering is fantastic! I chickened out on ultracoting mine (I prefer ultracote, I hate the newer monokote...)

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Tom, you are gonna end up with a front row finish plane.. I wish I could see your fiberglass process done in person.. I did my control line plane using clear dope, sanding sealer, base coat/clear coat paints annd wet sanding between each step.. it did well at the nats (Got best Brodak award for finish and craftmanship) took me to second place aerobatics 2009 but I think this fiberglass system you use is gonna be much more durable.. Looks great and thanks so much for the pics and posting.. please keep em comming.
my P-47:Well, still slow going and now I am head up stairs to do some painting in the hall way...YEA! but I did get some panel lines on, the side vents covered and the bomb drop mounted.. Now, off to sweety jobs!
Have a sunny day!
Terry B.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Tom, I was reviewing your pictures. I like your work shop..It's good to have a good place to build ! Man you do good work! What type of paints are using? Real nice Job!
Terry

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Guys,

I have been torn between covering the P-47 and glassing and painting. I built the T/F DC-3/C-47 kit and went the glass and paint route, after weighing, the primer and paint added about 12% to the weight of the plane. Do you think that is in the normal range for priming and painting? Since that was my first attempt, I suspect that I over applied the finish.

I'd like to build the P-47 light, and I think that iron on coating is the lightest way to go. On the other hand, if the plane flies well on the heavy side, I'd like to give the glass and paint another shot.

Terry, have you had a chance to weigh your airframe?

Tom, have you flown your plane, and do you know how much the airframe weighed after painting?

Thanks for the input...

Build well!

Ben

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Ben, the covering takes alot of time just as the glass and paint work..you can end up with a great finish with covering but it too requires alot of block sanding and I final sand with 1000 and 1200 grit black paper before applying the covering. Make sure and vacuum and tack cloth the wood before applying the iron on covering. Like Tom Said: Ultracote is a bit easier than monokote but monokote is a tad tuffer on open bays...The spray on finish can add some weight to the air frame but Like the man who got me started in models used to tell me: Terry, it's not how much primer you put on that makes a nice finish,,,, it's how much you sand off that makes a great finish. That is soooo true.. I actually get tired of sanding before I get a perfect finish...Just kinda gotta judge for your self..Also on painted surfaces, I wet sand between each application to keep it super smooth and lite too...Just more work. But you can't beat a well done base coat clear coat finish*
I will get the weight of my model done and post it soon. The plane feels light to me but I will post a number. Thanks for writing and please keep posting. We are all learning alot here! Thanks !
Terry B.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Thanks Terry...

I'm still moving along at a snail's pace :eek: But at least got a few more hours in on the tail feathers :D


Build well!

Ben

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Hey Terry I'm still out here, I moved over to my PT-17 arf to get it up and running for flying this year. I also p.u a GS Ryan military trainer at our swap meet. I'll try to add some posts of my 47 progress soon. Here is a link to a video on fiberglassing by a guy named Luke, whom I consider to be one of the finer builders out there. The trick to a light fiberglass job is not too much resin, most people over do it and spend forever sanding. I have had great success using latex paint as a finish, and you can get the panel line tape on line from various suppliers. It is called chart pack tape and is used by draftsman alot. It comes in widths from 1/64" and up. WOW ! your Monokote skills are amazing! I just don't have the patience to use a trim iron for the whole job though. For sheeted surfaces I just prefer using glass and epoxy, after you see how easy it is and how much more realistic the finish can be there's no comparison IMHO ;)

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Well, Sunday nite I got the cowling all fitted with muffler holes, rocker arm cover holes and a place for the glow plug driver and fuel dot.. Pretty happy with it but will post pics later..I still lack the dummy radial to be fitted.... Looks like a time eater to me.... I did finally remember to weigh the plane complete except for paint on the cowling...plane weighs 9 lbs 1 ounce.. For you guys who have one already flying... what weight do these normally come out to? Mine has a Thunder tiger 91 4stroke on the nose..

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Wrapped up the fin today, time to get the fuse started...

Happy Easter!

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Ah, the Razorback, my all time favorite JUG. Looks great and looking forward to your completion of this most wonderful build.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

subscribed[8D]

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

According to page 19, step 13 of the instructions, it says to glue a 1-1/4" strip of 3/32" balsa to cockpit sides joining the front deck. Is 1-1/4" accurate? It seems a little wide. If I glue a 1-1/4" piece in, it will have to conform to the razorback curve of CB and then to the roundness of the IP panel. Could someone post pics of this step please? Is it best to glue these in place prior to sheeting the upper forward fuselage tops, as the tops are supposed to overlap the instrument panel 1/8"? I need advice/assistance on this step. I plan on putting in the scale cockpit if that makes a difference. Thanks in advance.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

I waited untill I had the scale cockpit installed before adding the top pieces you mentioned. 1,1/4 would be a little wide. I added just enough to fill in the area needed for canopy attachment surface.. Look closely at this pic and you can see what I added....But you can add these parts just before finish work.,...Dont sweat it...
I have been working on my Cowling and dummy radial... I have applied Primer and 3 colors and wet sanded between but still lack the clear coat..(Too much rain in our area to spray clear)
I hope to post pics later this week...Thanks for checking....

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Thanks Terry, that info really helps. I will go with your method. Makes a lot more sense your way. Your build is looking fantastic. I will post pics of my progress eventually. I got the top deck sanded and shaped earlier this evening. I will try and do the the upper forward section Monday evening. Thanks again. :D

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Hi guys! Hope everyone got something done this week.. We have been doing long hours at work so I didn;t get alot of progress but I did get the cowling painted and clear coated,.. I actually enjoyed the Dummy engine painting and build up...(Real thin plastic though) Still lack a little work in order to be able to fly.. I am not sure what else I am gonna do but Still lack some details...Please keep posting your progress and I will get some new photos as I go...Have a good weekend!

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

My final weight with a magnum 1.2 would have been close to 11-12lbs. I opted to sheet the main wing with 3/32" "GOOD" quality balsa sheeting. Not much weight was added but the over all increase in strength was very noticable, much harder to acidentally put a finger through the balsa... My advice with this plane is watch the tail section it builds very heavy. Hollow all blocks, cut holes in formers and use the lightest hardware possible including a foam tail wheel or u will be adding lead to the nose. Glassing will definately add a pound to the plane...

Sorry I never flew mine, sold it close to the finish of the build. I had friends that claim the wing can support alot of weight and that they fly great even at 12-14lbs.

I don't have the time to build anymore so last week I ordered a 71" EMS Republic P-47 (camo scheme). Going with a dle30 (the engine arrived 2 days ago) Looks a lot like my dl50 & dle55. Gona try the ems retracts...

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Here is a pic of my TF GE kit built P-47.sold it 5-6 years ago.it was glassed with3/4 oz cloth and Z-poxy finishing resin.power was a Saito 100.Century Jet retracts.wish I had not sold it now.

now I am wanting another one,but don't have time to build,
so I bought the TF ARF P-47 and am converting it to a Razorback.Thunder Tiger .91 4 stroke is used for power.used an O.S. 80 degree
adapter to keep exhaust inside cowl.I also hid the switch in the right side vent on the fuselage.

Also if anyone is interested you can get a fiberglass cowl from
Fiberglass Specialties for the P-47 for $38.00.here is a link to the cowl
Part #TF-13