RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

Duco,
Congratulations on scoring the Falcon III.

Huck,
May just be me but I haven't really noticed any difference between Titebond and Titebond II in flexiblity. I think Titebond tacks quicker without the surface skinning as fast. That just might be my imagination too. :)
John

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

I was looking at my Eagle 2 plans and noticed that if I flipped the one Wing Panel around and laid it against the other drawing, there was the misalignment, just like your photo showing your misalignment problems. Apparently you cannot flip the Trailing Edge piece end-for-end.

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

You're absolutely right! The trailing edge is notched to fit in only one direction. The rib notches will all be out of alignment if you have it reversed. I wonder if that is the problem with Duco's ribs being so far out. I've seen plans shrink, but never to the point that his has, according to the pictures he's posted.

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

Both of you are absolutely right, the TE can not be reversed and the ribs @ rear are cut at a angle, so if you try to insert the rids w/the TE reversed, they will not seat. Each wing panel is 30" w/o plastic wing tips, and both have been laid out according to the booklet which states 2 different times 30". What you see, is what I got f/plans. I have worked w/many balsa kits and have seen this before, but not too the degree these reflect? If I had of followed the plans and cut everything to fit by it, I would have ended up w/a wing w/2 different lengthens. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...sappointed.gif

I have read every thread posted here, #48 has a lot of tips and good photos to follow along with + plus a cool bird to boot, and I have not seen anybody have a set of plans as whacked as these are!
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RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

There I go listening to those alarm bells again[:o]. I should have guessed that you had double or even triple checked to be sure you had the TE aligned correctly, but when that post came up, the only thing on my mind was to make sure that wasn't the problem. My PT 40 had one of those TE's, when I built it waaaaay back when and I vaguely recall pulling a little hair out trying to get things lined up until I flipped the TE end-for-end. It lined up a lot bettter then. Sorry to insult your intellect, Duco.

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

Oh no, by no means did you insult me in anyway, rather you added to the thread and someone else might read and realize they had done just as you said. You reply anytime you feel like my friend.

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

Remember that kit plans are nearly always copies of originals that were done in ink on mylar film. Different copy processes can allow some shrinkage to creep in. When I built my Eagle 63 way back when the kit plans were blue-line copies done by traditional blueprint methods. There was a little offset but not much. Today most kit plans are printed from either CAD plans or originals that have been scanned in and printed out on modern inkjet or laserjet plotters. Some deviation from the original ink on mylar plans is inevitable during the process. Even directly printing from a CAD program's vector graphics file will have some deviation. Heck, I have dozens of mechanical drawings I can compare where the same drawing done from the same file on the same printer but on different days will show deviations from each other.

Best bet is to do like DUCO and go by the printed instructions. Of course if you're scratch building then you're at the mercy of the plans, much as I will be when I start my Aeromaster project. Hey, that's all part of the fun, right?

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

One of the things I keep seeing is comments about the landing gear and some of the faults it has as designed. I was searching the web and came across a build blog for the Eagle 2. One of the things he did was replace the wire gear. I know I will abuse the landing gear and felt this was a smart thing to do, so in todays mail was a CG glass-reinforced LG. I also ordered from Tower Hobbies, I seem to be buying stock here lately with all the orders, LOL, well @ least I am helping to support one of the best WHS. I purchased some of the items I need to continue, and in that order was a Fults Dual Strut Nose Gear, another item that was highly recommended. Another point he brought out was to for go the use of the wood push rods and use ny-rods, I ordered the blue ones for the rudder/stab, I will use a rod f/throttle.

I hope to have the wing glued up tomorrow, then will re-build the stab, I have started laminating the fuselage bulkheads using wood glue, but will use epoxy for the engine firewall.

Again, thanks to all who are offering their sound advice and tips, please continue to help.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...ades_smile.gif<br type="_moz" />

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

Here is what I feel is the best landing Gear.
I replaced the wire gear on my Eagle 2 with a set of these:

Dubro Manufacturer Stock Number: 789
Tower Stock Number: LXNM65
Retail Price‡
15.44
Tower's Low Price
$14.39

Stock Status:
In Stock

I spent a lot of time re-bending the wire gear and they were starting to look real ugly.
Changed over to a set of these and not a problem since.
The Dubro gear lasted longer than plane and still in perfect shape. The plane is no longer with us.
Something to consider.

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

Here is the one I have for the landing gear replacement.
Hogrider, I checked out the one you gave, and will order one of those for the Falcon. Thanks for the tip.

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

The nice thing about the piano wire gear that comes with the kit is that it's pretty forgiving of a heavy landing. It bends and deforms on purpose whereas solid gear could easily rip out of the fuselage. I had to reshape the wire gear on my Eagle 63 several times during its life.

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

Thanks for the advice, funny you pointed this out, the reason I switched to this type was that I had read several different places (Forums and Blogs) the wire gear also ripped out and took bottom and sides w/it when ripped. I also read that the single spring front gear was OK, but was better to replace w/a double spring type, of which I have also purchased it as well. This is one of the benefits of Forums, people willing to help and share what they know about a subject. If you pay attention and listen to their advice, you lear from their experiences, vastly improve the survivability of the model by the improvements, better performance of the Aircraft and best of all, OOP expenses.
There are several things I am planing to do as I have found thru researching this model. Carbon-fiber tape added to rear of fuselage, has been pointed out this is a weak area prone to cracking after a good bounce of the tail. Speaking of tail, keys added to help from flying off in a nose over. Landing gear as already discussed. These are mods I have read done by others that has helped greatly in the aircraft w/o changing the design of the airframe in anyway.
This is what's so neat about our Hobby, we get to tinker!

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

Sounds like you are getting a lot of advice.... another 2 cents.

When it comes to control rods...... you can't beat "Sullivan" flex golden rods or clevis.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFU90&P=7

or the semi-flex type http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFU92&P=M

just put a anchor point every 8" or so along the fusalage (small piece of scrap flat wood with a hole in it to brace the rod) along the way.

Advantages.... less friction.....less stress on the servo.... easy to install vs. the bulky wood pushrods.

I use Sullivans flex rods on throttle connections as well.

Where the pushrod comes out - use "Ernst's pushrod exits (small) for the red sullivans

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE980&P=7

and large if you use the blue semi-flex rods http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE979&P=7

These pushrod exits also keep fuel from entering your model.

-Chuck

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

More sound advice, already ordered the semi-flex (blue) for Rudder/Stab. Did not however see the exits, those will be in next order. Again, thanks for the in-put. It is my intent again that a beginner reading this post will get a clear picture of what it takes to build a solid flying trainer platform w/o all the guess work involved. Hope this will help someone down the line. And by no means get me wrong, the kit is well designed and makes for a great trainer as it comes in the box, the hardware contained is top notice. However, I have been in the Hobby of building models for many moons now, and as of yet have I ever found a kit that did not benefit from tweaking. Besides, like everything else in the RC World, depends on how deep you want to go into your pocket as well!!!!! I remember the racing days when the saying was coined, how fast do you want to go, depends on how much you want too spend!
But I also understand to keep the young ones involved, money does and is a issue, so my advise, research and spend wisely.
Here's a hint to looking: Right now on eBay is a Eagle 2 kit w/OS Engine and numerous accessaries that the package totals $255.00. current bid f/$60.00 + ship $46.00, kit is coming from Canada. Now if a fella was smart and watched until the end, you could pick this puppy up for well below 1/2 what all this is worth. Heck, I might just go for it as well. I could use the extras/engine in the Falcon?
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...ades_smile.gif
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RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...ey/msn/lol.gifWell, could not let it get by @ that price, did get in a tussle for a moment and had to pay $10.00 more than my original bid, but did win in the end. A CG Eagle 2 (NIB), OS 46LA ABN (NIB), 2 1/4 Spinner, Dubro tail wheel assembly, main wheels, glass filled landing gear legs, lazer rods (blue), fuel tank and assorted pieces. Total cost w/ship $126.00. Hey, thats the cost of the engine and some of the accessories. Looks like I picked up a stash back kit of the Eagle II and the engine for the Falcon III. I have a hard time passing by a really good sale!

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

Had some time to glue up the left wing panel, funny, but I used my ole stand by, Duco to glue up the wing half. Happy with the results.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...eeth_smile.gif

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RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

The House Of Balsa Wing Jigs are the cats meow. Have more of them coming.
















PS: I am a slow meticulous builder, thats why I am still playing with the wing, I am enjoying this to the fullest.<br type="_moz" />

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...n/confused.gifHow do I set up servos to cause the ailerons to function as designed and then by switching the function they work as air brakes?

Left wing is pretty much complete, now gluing up right side. Adding wing webbing has made the wing very stiff. I am also finishing the laminations for the fuselage.

I just ordered a Futaba 6EX 2.4GHz to use 2 servos for ea. aileron. I read here on the Forum in a thread of how to do this mod of dual functions, but I did not understand it!

Got another great deal on eBay, she came this Friday, a sleek military type that I will build down the road when ready/trained to fly a bird like this.

Last picture is my guard dog on duty.<br type="_moz" />

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

You can set up the ailerons to act as flaperons if you have a transmitter with that capability. Read the instruction manual that came with your transmitter. I don't know about airbrakes. Air brakes are usually located mid wing, not at the trailing edge?

I have an Eagle 2 with an OS 40LA. Very nice model, great trainer, I think one of the best trainers avilable. In my opinion the stock landing ear is satisfactory, in fact, much better than the wire landing gear that is supplied with other trainers.

I have had bad experiences with golden rods. They tend to get longer and shorter with temperature, which causes your trim to go bad from day to day. I actually prefer the stick control rods that come with the kit. If you really want flexible rods, then I recommend the Sullivan graphite fiber composite rods, which do not grow and shrink with temperature like the plastic rods.

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

Hello JPMacG, thanks for the info. The more I hear, the more I am convinced to build this baby just as she comes out of the box. I think I will use the system as designed for the rods and save the Golden Rods. I also believe I may go with the stock landing gear as well. I am so glad people like you are more than willing to express your ideas about the bird and how it handles as it comes from the mfg.. So far I feel like I have not received any bad advice @ all from anyone. I do have another one coming from a purchase thru eBay from Canada, will put it back and when built, will add the bells and whistles to it. Should have a great feel for the bird by then. Again, thanks.
Hope to start the fuselage this week.
JPMacG, is there any bugs you might remember about the fuselage.
Hogrider, you OK buddy, miss hearing from you too!

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

The last post makes sense. As I was reading this page, and all the modifications performed, I found myself wondering why.

The Goldberg Eagle II is a proven design, that requires no modification. I built two, per plans. Both flew for years.

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

In order to use the ailerons as flaps, you would need to drive them with separate servos, one for each wing, and then need a radio with flaperon mixing.

The only issue that I had biulding the fuselage was posistioning the plate that the stab mounts to. It ended up with a bit of a side to side angle. I ended up shimming the stab and using a filler under it. I also blocked in the windows and the windshield but that was becuase I damaged one of them.

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

Hi Duco,
You have been a way for a while.
I would encourge you to use the glass re-enforced landing gear.
The Ny-Rod control rods would be an improvement over the wood rods and lighter too.
The type of flying that we do, we do not require that precise control over the throttle.
I have not noticed any noticable change in the throttle trim.
I have attached a couple of pics showing the rods and landing gear I used.
I don't think you need the flaps. This plane can be flown really slow.
With a nice wind, you can land with a 3 foot roll-out or all most hover going into the wind.
Your build is looking good, keep it up.

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

I absolutely agree and believe what you have said is true. What mods I have looked @ are to help make more bullet proof for what I feel is a must for me and my ole reactions.
It is not my intent to say the design is not great, but I do believe any model can be improved w/better quality components than comes in a kit, that is marketed f/a retail amount. I also spent a great amount of time researching this kit before I purchased and I read more than once the following faults:
1. Landing gear, easy to bend and after enough times, you will need to replace.
2. Balsa control rods have a nasty habit of breaking, warping and their weight can be negated.
3.Weight of plane.
4. Rear 1/4 of fuselage is prone to cracking after a hard landing and or roll over.
5. Plywood fuselage has a problem of splitting part @ joining half's/bottoms/top, caused by wrong glue joints and not enough area for glue to grab.
6. Stab prone to breaking off due to small glue area holding in place.
Now after looking @ this, and learning from what these individuals have gone thru, I thought, why not improve these areas as I build and I am sure I will more than once put the plane thru a nasty landing and or flying time.
But as you have brought out, the plane is more than capable. One of the mods I looked @: ailerons switched to a dual function as a flap, was to give me slow landing speeds to negate the damage from hot landings. I see now, I will forgo this mod and use on another plane I have in the build stash. I wish to say much thanks for your in-put and I look forward to more help from you, kind sir.




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RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
 

Funny you should bring this up. The Blog that I have gleaned much info from about the Eagle II stated the exact same problem w/his build as well. And his fix was the same as your results. You can only find this by being careful and checking for true alignment of the stab to the planes wings. Shim the stab to level is the fix. This could be a problem in many kits and a new builder can benefit from knowing this.
I have changed my mind about ailerons as flaps, but may use a sep servo for each aileron. Seems to me this would put allot less stress on a single servo moving the ailerons w/air pressure working against them. Still have not made my mind up on that yet, Will need to look @ wing layout and mod for the installation of 2 servos. I plan to use the clear plastic that comes w/kit, but will dye. As always, thanks for your help friend.
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