Piper cub
 

Im very excited. I have my first kit to build I have the Carl Goldberg anniversary cub, and as this is my first I have a few questions, do you prefer using thin ca on all joints or medium? And using epoxy or thick ca in the places that really need the extra strength!

Eray2012 ,
Replying to your question, I use CA glue only for tacking.
I use regular aliphatic wood glue that has some degree of viscosity such as Sig-Ment if available.
I was disappointed recently that the local LHS does not carry Sig-Ment anymor so I bought some Titebond III.
It turned out that this glue flows like whipping milk cream. There was discussion from others that this Titebond III was actually more viscous than Sig-Ment. This was not what I had and I poste pictures how easily it flows.
I also have Gorilla wood glue; not the expanding type. I have not used any yet.
I also have some Great Planes "PRO wood glue". I have not used any yet.
I occasionally used some Weldbond but find it too liquidy and takes too long before it set enough to aoid flowing out of where I want the glue.
I use J & Z super rc Z 56 for cementing clear plastic such as canopies.
You will likely read a variety of suggestions.

Voila _ _ _ you may decide yourself what to use.

I am not presently building a model.

Zor

P.S.: I regret that the decent formattting got ruined by this new operating software.

Thin CA
Titebond II
15 Min expoxy
but then I;m not that needs to stick things together as fast as I can.... Its the journey... not the destination in my eyes... but i sure do like admiring the destination in the end ;)

I don't use CA. It sands horribly (at least for me it does). I used aliphatic wood glue on this Goldberg Cub converted to a Taylor J-2. It is getting masked for blue trim. BTW- I have a fiberglass cowl with engine detail one side for sale if interested.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1907834

How much for cowl? and is it painted, but is that the stock landing gear?

$30 shipped to you in KY. I take PayPal. Just PM to me if you want it and I'll give e-m addy. It's a Fiberglass Specialties cowl w engine detail on left side. I pulled a glass cowl from the INSIDE of the kit ABS part. It turned out to be very nice and smooth... more so than the kit part's exterior. You could do the same but if too much hassle I can sell the one I don't need, now. My GB Cub is heavily modified. I added rear legs to stock L.G. and glassed the fairings in place. Other things different are fin, windows, skylight, ailerons, ribs and false ribs w cap strips, cabanes, door/window, internal elevator pushrod and pull-pull rudder.

If you do anything extra to your Cub I recommend adding the rear L.G. legs. Those kit items bend backwards and splay outwardly over time even with 'greaser' landings!

My all time favorite Cub kit. I use more thin CA then any other type but as mentioned, it doesn't sand. I also started to use good old SigMent glue too, it works very well. 30 minute epoxy but it isn't too important, just gives you more work time. I like the SigMent better then the water based wood glues but they all work very well. I like to get the journey over then go onto another trip. Last one I built I used a cowl from FGS that had engines on both side and installed the glow engine inverted out the bottom. They also have a nice one piece aluminum one LG. Not scale but it looks good and works great.

I've built many of the large 1/4 scale planes including three cubs. On all I found that an aliphatic (usually Titebond) did 90 % of the glue jobs with 30 minute epoxy doing the rest. I rarely use CA but it does have an occasional use. A small container of CA usually last me through several kits and a year or more. It's best use is to harden the threaded portion of tapped wood for wing hold down bolts and hole outlines in thin plywood to prevent ply separation.