Fuel Proof Dope?
 

Is Sig Dope fuel proof?? how about AeroGloss or Brodak or any others??
I know Nitrate dope is NOT fuel proof.... does Sig make Buterate Dope?
I don't want to have to buy gallons of full scale aircraft dope.... to expensive!

What's the best choice for use with 10% to 15% Nitro glow fuel?

Seems I used to use Aero Gloss and Silk, , and it always worked well.......

Yes Sig has Butyrate dope in pints and guarts however it's not the good choice because it shrinks forever. I use Nitrate when it's called for and Laquer primer and paint with automotive paints so I don't worry about fuel proof.

Aircraft Spruce USED to sell dope (all flavors) in quarts. You might check them out.

Les

The U-Control guys use a lot of dope and say it is fuel resistant - not really fuelproof (butyrate that is). By that, they mean if you wipe it off immediately after a flight, it will be OK.

Fuel proof, i.e. butyrate, dope is only fuel proof to about 10% nitro. If you spill fuel on the doped surface just let the volatile ingredients evaporate before wiping. You can slow the shrinking by adding 'Flex-All' or, as I do, one drop of castor oil to each quart of colored butyrate dope. Clear butyrate dope seems to shrink the most. You won't need as much dope as you will need the thinners! Buy thinners by the 4 gallon case. You'll need it. You will need silver and white more than anything so buying by the gallon would be cost effective.

I should write that on my shop wall, I can never remember what is what. By constantly shrinking it only is a worry with old silk span models after decades of hanging in a garage. When paint or dope are mentioned the term used is hot fuel proof. That just means the exhaust slime. Most all of the nitro and alcohol are burnt off before it comes out the exhaust. Nitro would make a good paint remover if it wasn't for the cost. It evaporates pretty quickly and I haven't had any problems with it softening up dope. All my 1/2A stuff uses 30% nitro.

"Nitro would make a good paint remover if it wasn't for the cost."

I'll testify to that. When my sons and I were racing boats, I set a container down on the wife's car hood. You know the rest of the story. One of the kids reached for it, knocked it over, and instantly removed a splash and run of paint from the car. Was about due for a paint job anyway:-)))))))) :-((((((((((((((

Les

I don't think that Sig Butyrate shrinks forever, it shrinks until it dries which can be a month or so but once it's dry then it can't shrink anymore. I had a 1/6 scale Sig clipped wing cub I finished with Sig Koverall and Butyrate dope, had it for over 20 years with no problems. Butyrate dope is fuel proof to 10% nitro I believe.

For my gassers I have using nitrate to apply koverall and airproofing the weave-But I paint with Latex-It works well with gas but Nitro is a no-no.

It smells good too in a closed up shop in the winter with your heater running-my beer bill went down :)

Ahhhh, another well bred individual who has the coolth to appreciate the 'nose' of vintage dope! But please don't give up beer! :D

Would that be known as "doping"? he he

I an still working on my first cloth covered plane, Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk. The plane is finally fully covered, just have to finish up the flaps and ailerons. I covered with cloth from a fabric store, and used Stix-it and clear dope, then finished with Rustoleum. Probably came out a little heavier than if I used straight dope, but I could only take so much of the aroma, and I was feeling a bit "unusual" after a while.

My next plane is a Sig 1/5th Cub using Koverall and dope. Going to cover it at my friends shop, he can deal with the smell then. :)

acdii- your first beer was nasty! Admit it! But, after drinking a few and learning the nuances you can drink one and separate the American Pale Ale from the stouts or wheats... right? Dope is the same way. It is an acquired thing! :D
Seriously, dope gives a very lightweight finish. It is easier to repair, too, IMHO.

I acquired a bathroom fan for my workshop, so that will help a LOT! :) I had no ventilation in my shop so the fume did get overwhelming. It was even worse using Polyester resin when making a mold. Talk about getting a nasty headache! I actually dont mind the smell of dope, and look forward to my next covering project.

aircraft spruce has everything you'll ever need

So does Univair in Colorado. Good, honest folks and a great company. Check it out if you're interested.

I recently used Brodak butyrate dope on a Balsa USA Force One. Where the base coats were sprayed on with a full "wet" coat it seems to be doing fine but where the camoflage green went on a little dry on the feathered edge of the color it has tended to wash off when raw nitro fuel dripped on it. A full clear coat might have helped.