Covering Q
 

I have done alot of covering jobs but nothing like this. I have used the windex method. Is there any tricks or tips to get the blue covering on the leading edge like in this pic.

There is a tutorial that features the use of glad press n seal. Basically, you do the window glass and #11 blade cut-out of the scalloped portion on the glass and use the press n seal to transfer it to the solid color, covered wing. Little dots of ink on the wing will help you align the press n seal with scallops onto the wing. I think that the tutorial is a sticky on rcu but it might be rcg.

TW,

Not sure if your refering to how to get it to stick or how to do the scallops.

To get it to stick I'd use trim Monokote trim solvent. They designed it for exactly what you want to do.

I had conversations with people about the Windex method. Most believe that Windex glues the trim to the Monokote. I don't see how. I think it's surface tension from the soap in the Windex that keeps it down by removing any trapped air.

Trim Solvent bonds Monokote to Monokote. It melts the glue without have to use an iron. You also half plenty of working time to aline it to get it straight.

As far as the Scallops you'll have to figure out and mark equal spacings for the scallops across the wing. Next I'd look for a can or cup and use that as a guide for the scallops.

Regards,

Bryan

My experience with Windex or soapy water is in placing adhesive backed decals or trim sheet. The decal or trim sheet slides on the soapy water with you position it. Then you squeegee the water/windex out from under it and the adhesive does its thing. At least one of the iron on coverings has a opaque paper backing that you can draw the design on with a sharpie marker. You want to have the least amount of overlap of your coverings to avoid bubbles. The coverings can be ironed over each other but the Monocote solvent really is pretty handy stuff. There used to be a book available on how to do elaborate Monocote designs. It dates back to the days of RCM so I dont know if it is print anymore or not. Scallops can be laid out using a straight edges and drafting templates. Lay out a straight line and then use the cross hairs on the drafting template to line up half circles of the desired size,

This was the tutorial that I thought might be helpful; monocoat 301http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tips-techniques-180/6686800-new-monokote-technique.htmlI may have misunderstood the original question, but this is a cool tactic for complicated trim patterns in film.

The easiest way is to use some tracing/masking paper (see pic) to create the design. Windex with "ammonia" activates the adhesive, and Monocote trim seal will lock the perimeter from lifting.

Windex does not activate the adhesive on Monokote. As Rogue indicated above it is just a static bond the holds the trim. If left long enough it will eventually bond to itself, thus Monokote comes with the backing so it can be rolled. I have lost trim in flight because I didn't iron it or use trim solvent on the edges. I have a mason jar that is half full of windex and a bunch of scraps of different colored monokote, The scraps have been in the jar for 8 or 9 years and I can still take a piece out of the jar and iron to a piece of balsa. If windex activated the adhesive it would have dissolved it away.

As far as your scheme you may have trouble ironing the trim over the main color. I did a project like this and the trim would pucker where the tips of the trim color wrapped around the top of the ribs. I had to make a 1 piece panel by cutting the Monokote underneath and overlapping the trim color. It was tricky but doable.

well i used the windex method befor i got back to this thread after doing some reseach and reading about the windex method. So if i go back over the trim aftge the windex dries with an iron to seal it down shouldnt that be ok?

Tony,

Don't believe everything you read in these forums. The Windex theory is just a theory it does not glue because it doesn't activate the glue. The two ways to activate the glue are heat and in the absence of heat Trim Solvent for it to stick correctly.

It will help a little to use the trim solvent around the edges but only if the solvent activates the glue on the back side of the covering.

As for your trim use the lowest heat you can to get it to stick. When I first started using Monokote I'd just turn up the Iron as hot as it would go. Then turn it down as it actually melted the glue off. Too much heat will warp flat balsa pieces.

Coverites Pocket Thermometer has to be the most important tool when using iron on covering. This allows you to accurately set the correct temp.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1960617

http://www.coverite.com/accys/covr2410.html

It comes in a clear plastic case and you set it on the ironing surface to adjust the temp.

I have actually used heat to glue down trim graphics. The problem you will run into is bubbles forming under the trim color that your trying to iron down. If it's over sheet it's not that much of a problem as you can poke holes where the bubble is with a needle or x-acto. But you don't want to poke a hole over an open area (no balsa underneath like rib bays).

Read this Article from the July 2000 Radio Control Modelers Magazine. [ATTACH]1960619[/IMG]

Here's a few links for you to check out as well.

http://www.top-flite.com/reviews/trimgraphics.html

http://www.top-flite.com/reviews/trimgraphics1.html

Someone once gave me a great piece of advice and that was "Read and follow the directions" Spend some time reading the directions sheet that comes in a roll of Monokote it's full of info.

Regards,

Bryan

Way back in the olden days, Monokote trim was not fuel proof. We had to seal the edges with clear "Dope". I finally got tired of that and started ironing on cut-outs of Super Monokote as trim. I even made a little tool to punch a bunch of pin holes in the bottom covering and eliminate air bubbles. Nothing real fancy. Starbursts and similar for contrast. I see there is a rotary tool available to punch the holes. I do have a questions through; Is Monokote trim sheet material now fuel proof?

It's probably the same sheet vinyl that you can buy from the local sign shop. The material is fuel proof. I doubt if the adhesive is.

MonoKote Trim is virtually unchanged since Day One. It's a "peel and stick" material. The nitromethane in the fuel is what will cause it to come loose because it will dissolve the adhesive. You won't find its performance changed from what you remember.