Rich,

Thanks for the rigging suggestions.

How do you do the finish on the struts to get the nice caramel color?

Now, let's see if I have a nice picture to show off. . . .
Oh, maybe next time - duty calls

SR

Let's try that again . . .
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2138487http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2138488http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2138489http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2138490

Nice looking bird!

Great job, another big welcome srecker!

Scott, the struts are stained before you add any ca or epoxy, then clear clear coat with Minwax Poly.
Your Taube looks great, looking forward to the finished product. Again welcome!

Fair Winds and Happy Flyin'
Rich

Thanks, guys!

Yeah, I love having this beauty hanging around in the shop. I almost hate to cover it. . . . Almost!

Scott

There is always transparent covering you can use! Best of both worlds, lets you fly it and still admire the bones!

Scott, welcome to the group, and nice job on the Dove.
I think it's funny that my GIANT 1/3 SCALE Triplane is about the same size as my tiny 1/4 scale DVII. They are both about the same length, and the tripe is only a few inches taller. The full size DRI must have been hard to hit, its sooooo small. ;)

Jeffee , You must have forgotten to put the landing gear on the tripe when you measured it !

It is amazing how the three wings on the 1/3 DR1 are about the same size as a Sig Senior. both the width and the chord. heck 8 inches of the top wing width is just the Aileron ears hanging out there.

On a different note, I wonder how far we are from Balsa USA announcing their next kit? Anyone heard any rumors?

The only thing I read was they might enlarge their camel,I'll be honest,I was disapointed in there choice of kitting the junkers,not attractive at all.I wish BUSA would get into golden age aircraft like they do with WW1 planes.jeffo

It would be cool if the planes were all 3D computer files, and they could design it for say 1/3 scale. Once they were finished they could hit a button and it would resize for 1/4 and 1/6 versions. Unfortunately with different wood thickness, strength requirements, and rib spacing ,cowls and such.. It isn't quite that easy.

With 3D printing becoming more skilled all the time I am sure we will get there..

This would be nice. I would like a 1/6 scale D7 or 1/4 scale Stearman.

You know if 1/4 Albatross spinners could be made safely by 3D printing, I bet we could get the highest sought kit out there ;) I know quite a few that would buy it immediately. I have talked to an employee at an airshow and the spinner availability / cost is the big hold up...

I am still drifting towards wanting a Pfalz instead .... ;)

How about a siemens shuckert?

Hey Folks,

Am finishing up the covering portion build of my Balsa USA Eindecker 90. Have covered is with Solartex Fabric covering and now I will need to be doing some painting.

Over many, many years of building models I have used just about every name brand of paint that you can find on the shelf, but I have never used KRYLON or RUST-OLEUM on a fabric type of covering. I have used these paints on various home, sporting and model projects, usually with great results, but this is my first build that I have ever used the Solartex Fabric covering.

Thus, I am wondering if anybody has ever used these paints on the material that I have mentioned above ? RUST-OLEUM also has a " HAMMERED " effect paint that I would like to use on the cowling for a more realistic appearance.

Also, not quite sure if I sure go with a white or gray colored primer. I assume gray would be the best primer if I was to used the HAMMERED affect paint over it.

Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Thank you ................ :rolleyes:

My friends and I have come to the conclusion the Rustoleum is MUCH more flexible and superior on fabric covering and water based paints. We are however doing a scale finish and not looking for museum/show car finishes.... A couple friends did some paint work over the same acrylics and used the krylon.. with bad cracking following soon afterwards.

We are using acrylic hobby paints from craft stores.. not home paint from places like Menards.

I spray two dry dusty coats of clear on my paint to lock it down. Trying to avoid weight or a thick shiny finish. In no way am I doing a normal type of coat. I stay back further from the surface,and dust it...

I almost forgot to add ! we are using GAS engines not GLOW, so that is something else to consider.. Glow must be sealed up better/differently.. and we are not going that route so I can't claim to knowledge in that direction.

Hi guys, tried to post earlier and my tablet locked up! Would love to get a number here. Been modeling since 1965, have and have had many BUSA kits and built planes. Had a Fly baby w/ evra 190 rope start! wouldn't start without the rope! Back then (1984) the kit was 99 bucks! Never again! Got it RTF for 250.! Framed up a Fly baby bipe, kit circa 88', last winter, 85%. Lost interest for a while. Built a new shop this past summer so will get back on it this winter. Acquired a BUSA citabria pro around 4 years ago, started rebuilding it and now finishing it. Trying to get all these back burner projects done before I tip over. Had two heart attacks two years ago, the second being the16th of this month just 19 days apart! Scarry! Still love to build more than fly now so I have lots of models to build before I check out. Any way, I love to chat and help figure out stuff others come up with to figure out.
I'm known as Bigbird But go by 'bird'. Some may know me already, I have been somewhat out spoken in the past but will try to keep myself 'reeled in' and not be so horsey. Thanks guys,and gals if there are any, look foward to the fun.
bird

I built a Hostetler Piper Pawnee and used Rustoleum 'rattle' can over natural solartex. It works great. I believe the pictures are in my gallery. I didn't prime it, just painted it. Also, it is 'hot fuel proof'.
bird.

If any of you are familliar with Chartlie Sjobeck from Randolph Vermont, He was at Warbirds over Delaware, with his BUSA 10 foot Stearman and in Model Aviation Magazine, I did the covering job on it . Solar Tex. Even the stars and roundell's.
bird.

Yes, I am leaning far over to using Rust-Oleum. Have used it on many other home projects and really can not ever being disappointed with it.
But, I am thinking about using the primer. Thinking the primer may also work well as a filler.

If you want to loose the fabric texture, the primer will do that. One thing I learned the hard way, don't put the next coat before they say to. It will wrinkle as if it were lacquer over enamel! You can't be in a hurry with rustoleum.
bird

Welcome "bird" glad you found us. You and I have lot in common, I also built the 1/3 scale BUSA Fly Baby Biplane, the first one I had a Quadra 35 on it. I remember the Evra 190. I was in Germany at the time and another club member had one on a Byron giant Pitts. Hard to start. I'll post couple pictures of my Fly Baby Biplane later.
The brotherhood asks that you post picture of your BUSA airplanes for all to enjoy.


It would be helpful for me if all BUSA Brothers would post their BUSA Brotherhood number in their signature. If I have missed anyone please let me know.


BUSA brothers

#1 jwrich, Enid, OK, USA
#2 Jeffo New Baltimore, MI, USA
#3 ARUP KY USA
#4 RCKen Lawton, OK, USA (RCU Forum Manager/Admin)
#5 mattnew, Haverhill, MA, USA
#6 surmovik60 VA USA
#7 GerKonig, Levittown, PA, USA
#8 Granpooba, Queensbury, NY, USA
#9 radfordc, Lansing, KS, USA
#10 balsa brain, Jacksonville, FL, USA
#11 3136 Victoria Austrialia **
#12 wwoneguy, Beltsville, MD, USA
#13 vertical grimmace, Ft. Collins, CO, USA
#14 rcmiket, El Paso, TX, USA
#15 bpoates25, Riverview, FL, USA
#16 PiperDriver, Rolling Meadows, IL, USA
#17 68goat Alabaster, AL, USA
#18 jlsimon, Long Valley, NJ, USA
#19 pat s, Candor, NC, USA
#20 pending IN USA
#21 Steve Percifield, Noblesville, IN, USA (Sir Percy)
#22 opol, Two Harbors, MN, USA
#23 Zero, Houston, TX, USA
#24 tonyos, Madison Heights, VA, USA
#25 b206, Opdyke, IL, USA
#26 LonnieMcc, Carriere, MS, USA
#27 eindecer3, McMinnville, TN, USA
#28 flyer35, Ilion, NY, USA
#29 jeffEE, Farnington, NM, USA
#30 s3nfo, San Diego, CA, USA
#31 Kwikfli, Winfield, KS, USA
#32 JDHammer, Slippery Rock, PA, USA
#33 Ikruse, Lawton, OK, USA
#34 bobbailey, Chesapeake, VA, USA
#35 Vampire, Bath, PA, USA
#36 zemkes_wolfpack, Winamac, IN, USA
#37 triumphman49, Decatur, AL, USA
#38 SRQFlyer, Sarasota, FL, USA
#39 Daniel-EL, Maumee, OH, USA
#40 hairy46, Sinclair, WY' USA
#41 pettit, Durham, NC, USA
#42 Hrannar, Patrekfjordur, Iceland **
#43 lowbubba, Miamisburg, OH, USA
#45 FokkerD7, Cable, OH, USA
#44 FireBee, Chesapeake, VA, USA
#46 iampilot2, Middletown, OH, USA
#47 Wagon1,Penscola, FL, USA
#48 darren 4, Eau Claire, WI, USA
#49 Luxuswaffe, Hialeah, FL, USA
#50 dryverman, West Rutland, VT, USA
#51 otterrc FL USA
#52 cooper998, Newark, DE, USA
#53 lazyace, Buffalo, NY, USA
#54 wings2an3 Monroe, NY, USA
#55 The Pamster, Dallas, TX, USA
#56 lucasar15, Pottsville, PA, USA
#57 AMA74894, Spicer, MN, USA (Moderator Jim Buzzeo)
#58 squidman, Waco, TX, USA
#59 M_Callahan, South Lebanon, OH, USA
#60 Karp050555, Philadelphia, PA, USA
#61 optech, San Diego, CA, USA
#62 ashby NSW Australia **
#63 R/C Art, Shelbyville, IN, USA
#64 on_your_six MD USA
#65 Highflyer2, Alpharetta, GA, USA
#66 dddaviddean NJ USA
#67 Quagmire, Costa Mesa, CA, USA
#68 pending CA USA
#69 ratshooter, Burleson, TX, USA
#70 TXAG96, Augusta, MI, USA
#71 R/C Ray, Valley Cottage, NY, USA
#72 feep, Pelham, NH, USA
#73 sdcranford, Willard, MO, USA
#74 buzzard bait, Ithaca, NY, USA
#75 chadasmus, Freedom WI, USA, (BUSA Team Pilot, Builder and Designer)
#76 fokv25, Westfield, IN, USA
#77 Dynamic, Stratford, WI, USA
#78 WinterHawke, Waukesha, WI, USA
#79 t6racer NSW Australia **
#80 NM2K, Ringgold, GA, USA
#81 rcjunky67, Belleview, FL, USA
#82 AndyF Ft. Wayne, IN, USA
#83 freefall2907, Ottumwa, IA, USA
#84 a65l, Virginia Beach, VA, USA
#85 Grimracer, Urbana, IL, USA
#86 Corsair2013, Granytsville, UT, USA
#87 Chevelle NY USA
#88 eagledancer, Orlando, FL, USA
#89 Leroy Gardner ID USA
#90 ANZAC Australia **
#91 Spadsriver09, Southbend, IN, USA
#92 PSB, Malven, OH, USA
#93 bradpaul, Apopka, FL, USA
#94 MRadu, Los Gatos, CA, USA
#95 HorsePowerAviation, Cincinnati, OH, USA
#96 Shoestring, Granite, MN, USA
#97 David Gladwin, CookhamBerkshire, United Kingdom **
#98 Rich6170, Springfield, OH, USA
#99 Wildbills21, Menominee, MI, USA, (Team BUSA, pilot, builder,& chief mechanic)
#100 Rickj, Akron, OH, USA
#101 Geezeraviation, Houston, TX, USA
#102 Flyboy077, Uniontown, OH, USA
#103 Shelstrm, Lancaster, WI, USA
#104 Drude, North Port, FL, USA
#105 bschatz, West Hills, CA, USA
#106 RCDuffer, Valley Center, CA, USA
#107 capnpaul, Orillia, ON, Canada **
#108 p38nut, Indianapolis, IN, USA
#109 yoda64, Bloxon, VA, USA
#110 Jaybird, Hallowell, ME, USA
#111 mbnt, IL, USA
#112 Foodstick (Lance), Ankeny, IA, USA
#113 adec, Perthaustralra, Australia **
#114 Navy, Orange Park, FL, USA
#115 RD Jeff, Anchorage, AK, USA
#116 Mistral 12, Granbury, TX, USA
#117 JKEpps, Greenbelt, MD, USA
#118 FlyerInOKC, Okla, City, OK, USA
#119 PT19, Buna, TX, USA
#120 Jim Scott, ?
#121 Srecker, Erie, PA, USA
#122 bigbird3, Williamstown, VT, USA


Fair winds and happy flyin'
Rich


AMA Leader Member
BALSA USA Brotherhood #1

Keep'em Flyin
Rich

Thanks Rich. I'm afraid I can't do pictires right now. Don't know why.
Also, I need the balance point for the Citabria Pro. I didn't get any plans with the plane.I am at the point of setting up the radio and then covering it.
And too, tell me how to update my signature. It's been a lomg time.
bird.

I see you are from Enid OK, I lived in El Rino in 1980-81.
Did you ever know Terry Allen? Real piece of work, he was! He was an R/C'r.

Thanks Rich. I'm afraid I can't do pictires right now. Don't know why.
Also, I need the balance point for the Citabria Pro. I didn't get any plans with the plane.I am at the point of setting up the radio and then covering it.
And too, tell me how to update my signature. It's been a lomg time.
bird.
Guess I figured out the signature thing!

Learned a long time ago that it is best just to dust / lightly spray a paint. May take longer, but the final finish will always come out looking much better than just trying to get a thick coat of paint on the surface.