C/A-Proof building surface
 

I am putting together a small laser-cut model from Park Scale Models. I have a sheet of waxed paper down on my building board to protect it from the thin c/a but the waxed paper is adhering to the wood. Does anybody have any suggestions as to what to use instead of waxed paper?

Thanks in advance!

Try Stretch and seal It sucks to work with but once you have it in place it works Ca makes it wrinkle a bit but it dosent leak .. You can't poke any holes in it with pins or you will get leaks

What kind of board are you using? I use celotex sound board it soaks well also you might consider switching to wood glue. I used to use super glue but found it had too many issues with cracking and lumping not to mention smell. Wood glue is a little slower ill grant that but i no longer will use super glue unless i absolutely have to. Ill put some wood glue in a dish and have a little water on the side ill apply the glue with a wet paint brush. The nice thing about it is ill have time to adjust the part I'm working on make sure its straight all sides square while the glue is setting. Also wood glue if applied with a little damp brush will soak into the grain making the joint stronger
on the Inside of the canopy where i velcro the electronics i will thin the wood glue and paint the walls with it. What this does is seal the grain making it a better surface to attach the sticky velcro.

It's an ultralight model that is laser cut with a tight fit. Wood glue is too thick. Thin c/a is a must. The use of thin plastic wrap is an idea I will try, but other suggestions are still welcome.

Thanks to both of you for replying.

I read somewhere that they're making wax paper porous now for whatever reason and it's not as good as it used to be. You might try to find "butcher paper" which has a waxy surface on one side. I've read it's a better alternative, but have not used it.

Thanks. A buddy suggested aluminum foil with car wax on it. I'll try a few of these and report my findings.

I use painters plastick.

TB

I use freezer paper for drawing out my building plans. It is a white paper with a plastic coating on one side. After I draw out the plans I tape it to my building board and cover it with wax paper. I use mainly wood glue with some CA and no sticking problems. Once I finish the build, I roll up the freezer paper, mark it and save for future use.

Tony,

Is what you are referring to a drop cloth made of thick plastic?

Great Planes makes a plan protector plastic that comes in a 25 ft roll if you don't care for the Strech and Seal . GPMR6167 It is just a thin plastic but it comes in a convenienient small roll

Oh yeah, someone mentioned that Walmart sells a clear vinyl that's back with the sewing material. I checked it out at our's and they had three different thicknesses. I didn't buy any and don't remember what the price was, but it looked reasonably priced to me.

I use the plastic film thats used to cover the cleaned garments returned from the dry cleaners. cured CA pops right off.

Polyethylene painters drop sheets. Use 2-3 mil if you can get it. Perfectly clear, large enough to cover even very large plans, and nothing sticks to it. Not CA, Not epoxy, even paints and dope will peel right off (once dried). I'm sure there are some adhesives that will form a bond, but nothing we use that I am aware of. What's better, it's available cheap @ any hardware store, Even XYZ-marts have it.

I like the dry cleaners plastic idea . I am going to save some of that stuff and try it . .

Hi Lifer,

I'm a little late to the party, but I've got a bit of lateral thinking for you - why not try a different glue? This stuff https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en...243900180.html is a great substitute for CA - in fact I prefer it over CA when working with tight fitting wood joints.

C/A is the only glue to use as the surfaces are laser-cut 1/16th balsa. The stabilizers are pressed together and laid on a flat surface then the c/a is applied:

http://www.parkscalemodels.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=73

As it's flying season, my progress has been slow but I plan to try the plastic sheet method next and will report.

I 'm not really a big fan of Ca glue either and I olso like the Super Phatic . the only trouble I have with it is keeping the tip clear . It sets up pretty quick and is at least as strong as the material that it is sticking together . I mostly use titebond #2 . I have some syringes that I fill up that I use for dispensing it . I can get it in tight spots and control how much I use . You haven't really given us much information as to what the problem really is and what you are doing . Are you covering a set of plans on your building board with a see thru film ? Which wood are you having the problem with ? Is it sticking to your model or the building board ? Ca is awful stuff in some ways . It is as hard as glass once it has set . Very hard to sand . You stick to it better than anything and if you try to use your fingers to hold things in place you wreck stuff trying to let go . I found Ca stuck wax paper to my models when I had them pinned down over my plans Plus it would wick thru the pin holes and stick the wax paper to the plans . Plus Wax paper is porus and Ca seeps thru it so it is very important not to over glue . And that is easier said than done . All reasons why I mostly use titebond ..I do use Ca for part of my wing builds.

Wax paper will kinda work but it is more a hold over from days gone by when wax paper really had wax on it. I started using parchment paper but like the wax paper it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. I have tried the thin plastic painters drop cloth and it works pretty well.
The wax on wax paper was removed when the micro wave started getting popular, people didn't like the wax in there food. My kingdom to locate the good old wax paper. Instead of auto wax a bar of paraffin wax and a bit of rubbing like waxing a surf board may be a better trick?

I've tried to explain that there are no plans! This is an ultralight, laser cut model that is built on a flat board. You remove the parts from the balsa sheet, assemble the parts and dry fit them together and then apply thin c/a. They have to be laying on a flat surface because they hold the shape they have at the moment glue is applied.

I havent built one of these model's ,or even seen one so far but now I better understand what you are doing . I think the thin plastic will solve your problems..

I just found an interesting idea in my BTE Vortex manual. The wing sheeting should be glued with ca and you should use a glass plate underneath and spray some ca accelerator on it. If some glue wicks through, it will instantly cure and stay on the balsa. Haven't tried it yet....

The idea makes a lot of sense.......

I agree . That sounds like a good idea.

hi PatrickCurry
go to one of the dollar stores or other dollar discounts, try their wax paper. it appears to be like the old fashion stuff. what I am using now with no problems.

happy flying
pt19 flyer