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JB Weld
I'm installing robart struts to electric retracts (90 degree rotating)..would JB Weld work or is it best to drill and tap to use grub screws?
Tom |
Originally Posted by iflircaircraft
(Post 12510983)
I'm installing robart struts to electric retracts (90 degree rotating)..would JB Weld work or is it best to drill and tap to use grub screws?
Tom |
The instructions for Robostrut installation https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/03...37206904165106
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Throw that JB weld as far away from your workshop as possible.
carl |
I'll go the old school way of drilling and tapping the struts and filing a flat into the connecting pin of the retracts. I was thinking JB Weld might hold.
Thanks PS:Funny that Robart recommends using JB Weld or silver solder to keep the bushing in place. |
Originally Posted by carlgrover
(Post 12511234)
Throw that JB weld as far away from your workshop as possible.
carl That said I find I prefer the Marine version of JB. It takes longer to cure, flows better and thereby fills voids better. And it seems to me to machine, drill, etc a bit better. But it is NOT for general construction as far as our models go. |
If you intend to install the bushing as pictured, JB weld will work rather well. Just scuff/clean the bonding areas well. I like to cure JB at around 100 to 110 degrees. It not only speeds the cure to fully cured in 2 hours but results in a stronger bond. I agree that drilling and tapping would be the way to go to secure to the retract pin. The instructions weren’t very clear but I imagine you would be drilling through the strut and bushing? |
Why would anyone bother with JB Weld use Stay Bright low temp silver solder and solder the bushing in then drill and tap
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Originally Posted by speedracerntrixie
(Post 12511576)
If you intend to install the bushing as pictured, JB weld will work rather well. Just scuff/clean the bonding areas well. I like to cure JB at around 100 to 110 degrees. It not only speeds the cure to fully cured in 2 hours but results in a stronger bond. I agree that drilling and tapping would be the way to go to secure to the retract pin. The instructions weren’t very clear but I imagine you would be drilling through the strut and bushing? Yes, I drilled through the strut and bushing front to back all the way through (as straight as possible with a hand held drill). Tapped the holes and filed a flat on the pin. I opted to have a single set screw on the front and back vs Robart's recommended two on one side. They seem to be very solid and the strut will not rotate on the pin. Once I put the loctite on the set screws I don't expect any problems. Tom PS: The set screw is just long enough to keep the strut from rotating on the bushing. |
I have a suspicion that unless the bushing is secured to the strut the hole in the strut will end up being elongated. Dennis, I would go with JB Weld as opposed to soldering so the paint on the struts isn’t damaged. I used JB on the upper wing attachments when building my 1/4 scale Reed Falcon. No issues now for 3 years. |
To everyone their own JB Weld is nothing but epoxy with some sort of filler Stay Bright is permanent paint is cheap.
If I understand correctly the op used opposing grub screws. If he did that means the grub screws are acting against each other better to have them at 90 degrees to each other. Each grub screw will force the wire against a different part of the bushing wall. Dennis |
Dennis, I agree 100% with the placement of the grub screws. He now has very little contact area. We could go on for pages about epoxy vs soldering. IMO both would work just fine, epoxy requires less skill. Not everyone has the equipment or nessesary skill to do a proper solder joint. |
I have used epoxy with milled fiberglass a few times. Never had a problem with struts coming loose. when you need to get it apart just heat it up with a heat gun and it comes apart easy.
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Any news?
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