Types of glue??
 

I'm curious how you guys glue your kits when building a balsa kit. I always read putting wax paper down on the plans, etc. I have always just used super glue to glue everything then reinforce it with epoxy or SIG Bond after I am done for the day. How do you do your builds? I'm curious because if I used SIG Bond or any other slow drying glue it would take forever to build a plane it seems because you would constantly be gluing and coming back later once it dries to continue. Am I doing it wrong? Does it make a difference? Advice from those that have done a lot of building would be well appreciated.

On small planes (glow planes up to about 1.20 size) I use medium CA(super glue to some) for general framing, ribs, fuselage bulkheads, sticks.

I always use 30min epoxy for firewalls, wing mounts, joining wing panels and attaching the tails, landing gear, etc.. and anything that will have more stress. That's about it.

I use Titebond II or III for large planes...( 50cc-100cc and bigger)..It's cheaper and stronger, cleans up very easily, but it does take a while to dry. No big deal though.

Your best bet is use epoxy and clamps for things like firewalls, etc.. as I mentioned above.

You're wasting your time using CA and then thinking your "reinforcing" with epoxy. Just use straight epoxy and clamps. Then if you want to do a small fillet or bead in the joint have at it, but forget the CA where you need epoxy.... The epoxy is far stronger when clamped then any CA joint. I'm not a fan of Sig Bond. It might be good stuff, but I have CA, epoxy, and Titebond readily available, so yeah... that's what I'm using.... Just CA and 30min epoxy will get a small plane built in no time at all.

I have several planes I've built that are over 20yrs old and seem to stand the test of time, and are well flown... Opinions do vary on this subject, but this is my experience of over 40yrs... I started well before CA glue was mainstream too.. LOL.. epoxy was hard to get too... We used a glue called Ambroid, and Testors had a clear glue too... and the old stand by was regular white glue... imagine that.. haha. Good luck with your building. Clamps are your friend man. :)

I've used plain ol' Titebond on the last 3 kits I've built. Easy to work with and dries reasonably quick. I've got a fresh bottle of Titebond 2 for my next project, an old school model works Javelin.

CA is still handy to have for certain places, but I just dig the clean, easy old wood glue. And epoxy of course for high stress things.

Thanks guys....just what I needed to hear. I have been using medium CA on everything to put it together, then reinforcing(I thought) with SIG Bond on the ribs and epoxy on the firewall and high stress points. Luckily I have only built a few smaller size planes. I'll definitely change my methods for the bigger planes I plan to build.....guess I'll have to get out the clamps..:)

Seems that Titebond is used by many. I will definitely start using it on my next build and use epoxy for the firewall and other high stress areas. Heck, I've been using way to much CA...costs a lot also. A lot can be learned by asking a simple question. Thanks again!

Years ago , I was one of RCM's assistant editors/writer. We received a submission in which the writer described his use of Titebond glue.
Time was before computers, scanners, etc, the articles were put into columns on special typewriters by typists, then went to 3 of us for proofreading.
Well, the typist left out the "E" on Titebond and 3 expert proofreaders did not catch the omission. We learned about it as soon as the issue was delivered with many comments including a question as to where one purchased that special glue. Eloy Marez

�� I can see where that would cause a few chuckles..:)

Here's a little chart that lists the different Titebond glues, with specs to go with them...check it out! .https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...7e6ccfd960.png

Thanks! I'll definitely be buying some Titebond II or III for my next build.

You might want to give the Gorilla glue FOR WOOD a shot as well. I think it dries faster than titebond 2 .. dries clear to whitish.. stays a bit rubbier? hahahah Wouldn't use it for areas that need a good finish sanding like joining wing skins.

You can buy a gallon of Titebond 2 for less than 2 ounces of odorless CA I think ! hahahahah

I use all three. The key to CA's is to have a really tight wood to wood joint. It is terrible at gap filling. It does, however, then provide as good a joint as the others. As long as the wood breaks before any of the glues, you're as strong as it needs to be. CA and epoxy are very hard to sand, Titebond is far preferable in those applications.
So:
Rapid assembly, for internal structures that fit well together: CA
Joints that have some gaps and/or you want a fillet on the outside to beef up the joint (firewalls, wing roots, etc.): Epoxy
External surfaces that will be sanded (wing sheeting edge joined, Fuse sides, etc.): Titebond.

Gorilla Glue: I mostly avoid, due to the foaming characteristic, but there sometimes are applications it can be useful for.

Many years ago I went on a Sig factory tour. Yep, "Sigbond" was just big vats of Titebond put into small bottles.....

For demanding wood joints I'm an epoxy fan (specifically WEST System: https://www.westsystem.com/).
It's designed specifically for wood-wood bonding.
You do need to be careful not to use too much or you'll add unnecessary weight.

It cures about as quickly as Titebond, so clamps are still part of the equation.

I think what I am hearing is...there is an application for each type of glue depending on what is needed. I will try an let common sense figure out which is which. Good to know about what is and isn't easy to sand as I have learned that the hard way.

BTW - get a box of baking soda. You can use it as filler in instances where you want to use CA for speed, but have a slight gap. It can foam up a bit, and will be rock hard, so avoid for anything that you may be sanding later. Yes, I have even frequently used it, with thin CA, to fill holes I've drilled in the firewall that need to be relocated.

I use mostly CA except for things that need epoxy, such as firewalls. CA is hard to sand once it's fully cured, but if you sand it within a few (up to 20, say) minutes of applying it there's no problem. Plastic modelers use CA as a filler, and that's a use that requires sanding and one in which you don't want to sand off anything but the glue itself. Not that there's anything wrong with Titebond, but if you find CA more user-friendly there's no reason not to use it.

I have been scratch building race planes for more decades than I care to admit. I use thin and medium ca for all balsa joints and epoxy for all hardwood. I use only laminating resin and not garbage minute resins. A special note here, West Systems resin is a marine resin and not a laminating resin and should never be used as such. The makers of West resin make a true laminating resin (Pro Set) that is a vary high quality resin. West 105 is probably the worst choice one could make when one needs a laminating resin, but one of the best marine resins available if you require repairs of your boat.

Scott

Controversial subject, but this is what I use with excellent results. I almost never use any type of CA when building if I can help it. Some builds however require the use of CA because of the type of construction involved. I don't like the fumes and health risks that one is exposed using CA. Other than hardening wood threads, I try to avoid the use of CA.
So what glue do I use? In my builds I use Titebond II for most basic construction along with a good quality 30 minute epoxy. I've been using Bob Smith's epoxy products and have been very happy with the results. Keep in mind when one should use epoxy. When assembling firewalls or anything associated with landing gear, laminating plywood to plywood or mounting the tail feathers onto your plane you should be using epoxy.

Using Titebond glue over CA does slow down the build process, but that's OK with me as I'm not in a rush. Sanding Titbond is also easier than sanding something that has been wicked with CA.

Just my 2 cents, good luck with your projects...

Yup.
Read all the information/opinions along with your personal experience and assemble your own toolkit of adhesives and applications!

Thanks for the pointer. I've had good luck with Bob Smith Industries products for 30'ish years now, but I've never tried their epoxy.

Another advantage to Titebond is that it does not stick your fingers to each other or to your project!

I'm currently chewing CA off of my fingers from last night's wing-building session. Trying the Super-Phatic for some pieces of my 1/6 cub build, seems strong and flexible!

Which version of Titebond is Sigbond?

yellow wood glue (Titebond, or other brands) for general construction, Epoxy (30-minute) for LG mounts, firewalls, wing joints, etc.

only occasionally use thin CA for things such as strengthening control horn locations. haven't had a bottle of medium or thick CA in my shop in 25 years. CA simply stinks too much and is too expensive for general use.

You want an opinion on the smell of glue?)
I know a chemist who said he could make me some cool glue.

Ca is too hard to sand???
 

Are you kidding me???!!!

Before I get to my main point, it must be said (if you haven't figured it out already) that no single type or brand of glue is suitable for EVERYTHING. There are seemingly countless types of glue out there with different traits and qualities and they are all needed in specific situations where the glue needs to meet a certain criteria in order to make an optimum joint. What kind of glue is best? The answer is based on one's exprience, research, knowledge, skill, creativity and certainly the task at hand. This brings me to CA, a personal favorite of mine when it comes to glue. Is it good for everything? HELL NO, but it IS possibly the most versatile substance I've ever encountered for crafts and industrial applications of all kinds! Besides joining a couple of pieces of wood together, it's useful for sealing, forming, filling, shaping, reinforcing, hardening, fiberglassing, finishing, fabricating and for instantly fusing your fingers to whatever you might be working on!


This brings me to my main point. I constantly hear it said that CA is too difficult to sand and I find that to be the furthest thing from the truth. By it's nature, CA is somewhat stiff or brittle and because of that, I find that sandpaper cuts it very cleanly. By comparison, any other "softer" kind of glue tends to be more gummy and resists sanding. In the case where I need to sand down a glue seam on a balsa surface, the fact that CA cuts cleanly (using a sanding block of course), I can get a perfectly smooth, flat surface. If i try to do that with just about any other type of glue, the glue gets somewhat rubbery, loads up the sandpaper, rolls up into little balls and generally resists being cut. As a result, the sandpaper ends up chewing up the surrounding balsa surface more effectively than it is able to cut down the glue. Maybe that explains why those who prefer sanding a "softer" glue have models that look the way they do.


My own personal selection of glue is strictly based on how effectively it does the job I want it to do. For some others the selection might be mitigated by their disdain or intolerance of certain aromas. Unquestionably CA isn't likely to bring any sort of delight to the nostrils, but then again, you have to consider that one of the ingredients that make this stuff work is cyanide. Yes, the stuff they use in a gas chamber for an execution. Don't worry though, people drown in water all the time, but you still drink it, don't you? And if it makes you feel any better, you'll be happy to know that apple seeds contain cyanide. In any event, the slightest effort to provide some ventilation effectively solves the problem of any fumes emanating from the glue completely. If you're unfortunate enough to be from California however, you are aware of the fact that virtually every substance that mankind has ever encountered is known to the state of California to cause cancer. :p