Tiger 60 Question & Problem
 

I am putting the wing together on a tiger 60 (great kit so far) and no where does it say when to glue
the ribs to the 2 chord basswood strips and the Trailing edge. I would assume once you have the TE
inserted into the slots and the basswood cords in place and everything matched up to the
drawing, and square, you would glue them and then put on the front LE and top cover? The manual really
dosent say and I have read it 6 times. (However, I may be blind in one eye and cant see out of the other)

my one small problem is that when I put the torgue support and landing gear support it did was not flush
with the bottom but the top was ok? is this right? If not as long as i do the same thing to the other wing,the two will match, Or do I have to sand the bottm of the torque support and rib support to match the rib?

Everything else so fars looks great.........Oh and I did add 1/2 inch to the rudder since I want to fly pattern with this unit. gonna run a .61 with it.


I tried contacting the factory but no answer on the phone.


any help will be appreciated ..



Please note I have two tiger kits one with retacts and one without. I am building the without retracts
first to make sure i know what I am doing the second time as that is going to be my pattern plane.

RE: Tiger 60 Question & Problem
 

go ahead and glue the ribs. You'll be okay.

You can go either way on the landing gear blocks. As long as they are seated in the rib doublers you'll be fine.

I'd add a 1/2 to the elevator also. I've never felt I didn't have enough rudder, but I really could use more elevator on mine.

RE: Tiger 60 Question & Problem
 

I have this plane. The rudder is almost useless at slow speed, ie stall turns etc. A bigger stab won't hurt either. Just dont add weight! They are very much tail heavy with the 60 size engines. I removed a bunch of the balsa infront of the rudder I didn't think it did much.
I suggest building the fuse so that you could do the tail dragger conversion at some point. In fact I would build it that way to start. The nose gear I find is only really good at removing your firewall. They also handle better as tail draggers.

BTW it really is a great 2nd plane - you won't regret it.

RE: Tiger 60 Question & Problem
 

I agree with staggerwing, glue the ribs. I also noticed the omission, but since Goldberg was in the process of closing (and purchased by someone else) I didn't bother to talk to them, and considering the fact that I couldn't even get any replacement parts for the stuff that was missing originally! Good thing I was building two at the time, as I had a pattern at my disposal.

Built mine (and two others) with retracts, so I can't comment on the gear blocks. I will tell you that the supplement for the retract version has some instructions wrong, so make sure you study the plans and the supplement. As I recall, it had something to do with the placement of the rib doublers relative to the retract mounts.

My rudder and elevator feel fine. In fact the elevator is a little touchy, must be where I have it balanced at. You will love this airplane.

RE: Tiger 60 Question & Problem
 

Cool, I'm just getting ready to start my wing, and now I'll know....hehehe. This is my first build, and I'm having fun so far. My father had a Tiger2 years ago, and I really enjoyed it, can't wait to get this thing in the air. I've heard people say it is a good idea to move the main gear back a half inch. Anybody have any thoughts on this? Is there anything else that has to be modified if you do this? Also, I laid my TE over the plan and noticed some of the slots didn't match the ribs on the plan, what would be the best solution for this?

RE: Tiger 60 Question & Problem
 

I would build off the main spar, not the TE. Prints tend to shift on paper. Over time they strech and shrink. I also noticed a difference between the two. I used a square to keep things straight.
I used the mains from the kit to convert to taildragger. Have pics if you want em. I made the doublers fit in front of the spar and turned them forward 10 degrees or so, to the LE.
For a frist kit there are a few "fill in the blanks" but not too bad.