RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

It may be a little late now, but when I went to Lowes, I asked the person in the door department and not the check out clerk. If it is like other stores, the persons in each of the respective areas may have more control about what goes to the cashier. Or maybe I just got lucky.... but there are many threads on RCU about doing this, so it may be in just who you ask.

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

hooked-

The gentleman that was working in the door department is who i asked, but he said that he could only do 10% and to go to the customer service counter and ask to speak to a manager to see what kind of deal I could get. So I asked the lady at the customer service desk if I could talk to a manager about getting a discount on the door, she called him asked what kind of discount she could give me, and then proceeded to describe the door as having a little nick and some scratches, and that's when she offered 25%. I think that if the manager had come out and looked at it, I probably would have ended up getting a better deal. It had a chunk from the forks of a forklift taken out of the edge and since it was the bottom door of the pallet it had cracks (or scratches as she called them) all over the side that was facing down. I used to work for BMC West another building materials company around here and they would have almost given it away, as you can't fix it and unless you were going to use it as a construction door it has no other purpose except for maybe firewood, Oh well. I would normally go to Home Depot mostly because it is closer to my house, but I had a $10 off card that I needed to use.

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

jspencer - Betcha if you go back in a week that door will still be there:D I had the same problem with something similar. There used to be a big Air Show in Oklahoma City each year and my son and I would go whenever we could. Well the local quick trip, 7 eleven, type of store had posters in their windows advertising the show. I wanted to frame one and so I set out one morning to see if I could get one. I went to a couple of stores, and they were glad that someone other than them would take it off the window. However, each one had a little flaw or tear in it so I kept looking. I went into one Quick Trip and the clerk said I would have to talk to someone at headquarters about getting it. What a joke...the show was over, the posters were going to be thrown away, but still she had blinders on... I laughed and told her that I would get it at some other store...and sure enough, the very next one had one in perfect condition and it now hangs on my office wall. Some people just don't get it... :D

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

Probably prefer to work with Ultracote, however you get more material with Aerokote. One advantage to Aerokote is that it has an white back. Seems to hide wood grain better. If you are going to use either one of these low temp. materials, you must...must have an iron that controls temp. accurately.. I have a Century 21 and love it..Fred123[&:]

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

fred123-

What setting do you use on your iron for ultracote as I have the same iron? I also have their trim sealing iron and it has the same type of temp control on it as well.

I didn't get a chance to do anything tonight as I have been studying for an interview in the morning. I'm taking the day off from work tomorrow so I should be able to work on the bipe after my interview.

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

jspencer - I set my iron at about 175 degrees. This is enough to activate the glue, but it doesn't shrink the covering. You can go back over the areas after it is in place to do that. I would experiment a little on scrap balsa to see what works for you. The instructions, if I remember correctly, mention 225 degrees. I have used it before, but prefer the 175 temp.

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

I set it for about 220 deg F. when I am sealing and tacking. Kick it up to about 250 for shrinking...Fred123[&:]

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

Day 43
I continued to finish up the center bottom wing sheeting. In the pictures, you can see the progress and the steps that I have gone through to ensure that the servo wires have something in place to use to fish them through. First, I took the bottom wing with the finished top half sheeted and set it in place on the bottom of the fuse. I centered it and then marked the place for a 1/2 inch hole for the servo wires to go through. NOTE: You can see the 1/2 rib structure in the pictures and the instructions indicate you can skip this step. It is up to you whether or not you add these, but I chose to keep them in. They aren't in the way and do add additional support for the wing sheeting in this area. So if you build this kit, the dual servo instructions will indicate to skip steps 39a. It also says you can skip 44b...this is the part where you cut out the center rib section to accommodate the center/single servo configuration. This step I did, in fact skip. After I marked the location of the servo wire exit holes, I drilled them out using a 1/2 inch brass tube that has been sharpened on one end. This is the best way I have found to drill holes in thin balsa sheeting. I have several already pre-sharpened for when they are needed. Make sure you hold something behind the sheeting for support when you drill..:D

In the second picture, I you can see where I have threaded string through the servo wire tubes in the wing. In the center section, I attached a small washer to the string just to make it easier to fish it out through the 1/2 inch holes. The outer end of the string is curled up and taped inside the servo bay on the wing for later use.

Last step for today was to install the trailing edge center blocks and do a little sanding. You can see the results in the last two pictures. NOTE 2: If you are building this plane..and you haven't noticed by now, the instructions for adding the trailing edge blocks indicate to install the aileron torque rods. I will assume that if you are doing the dual servo configuration you will know NOT to install the torque rods. However, if you haven't thought about this, I guess I just gave out the secret;);)... I am somewhat surprised that the instructions are explicit about not adding the 1/2 rib supports, and not cutting out the center rib section, but overlook not adding the torque rods. Yeah, it should be obvious, but how many of us have not done the obvious before? NOT MEEEE....:D

As I said, I did get a little of the sanding done, and am now ready to add the fiberglass strip around the wing on the center wing joint. I measured what the kit supplied and without cutting out the space for the center servo, there is just barely enough. So I will need to get some more (probably have some in the shop already) for fiberglassing the elevator torque rod... Now this I will need:D

Latest pictures of my progress:

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

Hooked,
Man oh man, you are getting me all worked up to order another Hog bipe and built it!!!! :D:D


Keep up the good work

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

I guess that my two least favorite jobs in kit building are covering and cutting hinge slots.. When I first started this new hobby, I was advised in a thread to buy a slot cutter... How I wish I had taken his advice. At any rate, I have discovered a neat tool that I happend to have on hand that helps some. For example on the wing trailing edges, the edge is fairly wide and hitting the center exactly is sometimes difficult. Since woodworking is another one of my hobbies, I tried using the tool I use to mark dovetails and it works great to locate and mark the center of the trailing edge.. Picutres are below: Fred123

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

Thanks for the pictures fred, I do have a slot cutter, and had used it on my Somethin Extra during the hinging process. I am confident that I can line up what I need for the hog and cut the slots. I am considering waiting until it is covered before I cut them because on the SE, I had a real tough time finding them under the covering.[:@] ...

Ken,
I'll just bet you that they have more hog kits where this one came from.:D ... I am really excited about having you and a couple of your flying buddies come up here for the maiden flight. As far as a hobby shop, you will be within 1/2 mile of one on the way to the field.

Things may slow a little over the next couple of weeks. I am getting closer to my son's graduation and the work is still sitting there to be done. You know, the fun stuff, painting, yard work, cleaning (yes, I will help) and putting together the food for the visitors we will have. We are having an open house the weekend he graduates and we will have a lot of neighbors and friends stop by. It's been a long haul, but we're almost there. :):):):)

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

Hooked,
I'm definately excited about coming up there and watching your maiden flight too. Don't worry about having other things getting in the way of building. Hey, we all have a life too!!! :D:D You'll finish when you finish.

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

Finished covering the top wing tonight.. As I said, I am using Astrokote and after doing the tips, I have decided that I wished I had used Ultracote. Find that the heaver Astrokote is more difficult to stretch around compound curves and the adhesive does not seem to stick as easly. Maybe it is just my technique, but still believe it is harder to use than Ultracote. Fred123[&:]

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

You may have had quite a bit of difficulty, but it looks like it came out pretty good. I do have a question. In the background I see the fuse with the stab and fin attached to it. Did you decide to cover them while attached to the fuse? Reason I ask is that I am planning to cover the fin and stab, remove the covering where necessary and then attach them to the fuselage after. Sort of like an ARF is done. I was wondering if you had considered this process and if there was any particular reason that you went the other way. When I coverd my Somethin Extra, I did the covering first then the attachment of the pieces and it made it a lot easier.

BTW: Didn't get much done yesterday. It was quite cold here and I wimped out:)... I did finish adding the small pieces of cap strips in the servo bays and now have the servo hatch covers sanded to the correct size. For others building this plane I recommend that you mark which hatch is which after you shape them so that small differences in the hatch shapes don't throw you off.

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

Hooked,
I know there are plenty of people that disagree with me, but I always assemble the tail feathers and then cover. IMHO it's easier for me to get a better covering. Plus, I don't like to cut the covering away from the wood. It's too easy to cut too deep, score the wood, and weaken the structure. When I cover I cut a strip of covering about 1/2" wide, crease it in the middle, and then put it in the joint between structure (i.e. fuse to vertical stab. fuse to horizontal stab). Then when I cover the part I just butt the covering up against the fuse. The small piece I put in makes sure that there is no wood showing.

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

Ken, I just happen to be from the other camp and will probably do it that way again. My main reason for the question was to make sure I am not missing anything about the structural set up by covering in advance. I just feel more comfortable doing that way.

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

Hooked,
I totally understand. I realize that I am in the minority about doing it the way that I do. But like you, that's the way I've always done it. I think it goes back to the old days of building those old free flight Guillow's kits with my dad, where we built the entire plane and then covered it with silk and dope. Old habits dye hard! :D

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

Hook: I built my something extra and covered with the tail fethers attached. On my 4 * I covered them per the instructions as separate pieces. I agree with Ken. I hate to try to cut out the film to fit the joint. I feel you get a better covering job by adding strips of covering in the joints. In addition, the fairing blocks at the horizontal / vertical stab. junction are easer to form and install. Fred 123[&:][&:]

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

I usually cover the model after it is assembled as well, but have often wondered if it would be easier and look good covering the individual pieces before assembly.

I started on the bipe on Friday and found myself working on it most of the weekend. I finished the top and bottom wings along with all of the tail pieces. I started on the fuse last night and should be able to rap it up in a couple of days. I always tell myself that I'm going to go slow on this one, but with the two SIG kits that I've put tegether that just doesn't happen. My SSE I did in 2 weeks (covered) and it looks like the hog bipe will be about the same. I have built most everything as per the instructions with the following exceptions. I changed the shape of the rudder slightly and added just a little more surface area. I also made the elevators slightly bigger to compensate for the wider opening for the rudder. I also built the wing for the 2 aileron servos instead of the single. Other then that it has been pretty much stock. I have to get some 1/4" ply to make a larger landing gear plate so that I can move the gear forward 1/2"-3/4". I also am going to use 2 elevator servos, one each half, and a pull-pull on the rudder.

I got my engine on Saturday and ran a tank thru it. As my first 4-stroke, I really like the way that it sounds and the smoothness of the transition on the throttle, I think that I'm hooked. I did notice that a chicken stick is in order and I'm glad that I was using one as I would of had some really sore knuckles had I not. I eventually put a spinner on it and used my starter to start it. Ken, what kind of numbers should I be looking at for rpm (idle and wide open) swinging a 14x6? Also, what prop would you recommend for this plane/engine combo?

Here are a few pictures of the wings:

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

Hi, have been following along with interest as I have just completed my own hog bipe and test flew it last Saturday. Here are a few pics of mine.

http://www.mikesgaslogs.com/hbipe1.jpg
http://www.mikesgaslogs.com/hbipe2.jpg
http://www.mikesgaslogs.com/hbipe3.jpg
http://www.mikesgaslogs.com/hbipe4.jpg
http://www.mikesgaslogs.com/hbipe5.jpg
http://www.mikesgaslogs.com/hbipe6.jpg


Landing this plane was so easy I think I could almost do it blindfolded (lol)

Good luck with your first flight!

Frank

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

And a few more:

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

69chevelle - That's a great looking plane! Hope mine comes out as good after it is covered. Sounds like a great flyer as well.

jspencer - Keep it going, it looks like you are making great progress. As far as mine is concerned, I am in a slow period for building. As indicated, we are getting ready for a college graduation, and my time is spent on other projects. Mostly getting the house ready and yard work. We have quite a few out of town guests coming and an open house that is taking my time. In addition, we had to go over to Norman, OK (135 miles ow) yesterday for the unveiling of my son's senior project. We had always planned to go, but we completely forgot about it until Saturday. My wife was calling him to wish him a happy birthday and he asked what time we were getting there. [sm=eek.gif] YIKE's we would have forgotten to go. Anyway, got there and back yesterday, so now we are backed up on the other stuff.

I am at the point of adding the fiberglass cloth to the bottom wing to strengthen it. Not sure exactly when I will get back in the groove again. To top at all off, our club is having their annual Memorial Day Open house. We are planning to paint the front gate and the parking lot rails this Saturday, so another day lost. Since I am the club pres, I am doing as much as I can to help out. All good stuff, but the hours of the day are few and far between when I don't have something planned. Although, I am taking the week off on vacation after the weekend of graduation and I will probably set aside several days of building. That should get me done with the skeleton and ready for covering. I am still aiming to have this plane completed sometime in the next month, and will make it as long as I can find the time.

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

Hooked-

Sounds like you are going to be super busy thru the end of the month. We just had our club field day a week ago, and I'm still a little sore. We had 50 yards of road mix (gravel and sand) that we had to spread in the pit area and around the runway to smooth the transition for those that miss. We fly off a paved surface out in the desert and it has cracked a little so we also filled in the cracks with tar, messy job. We had a great turn out and the field looks the best that it ever has, at least that's what the older members say. Everything got a new coat of paint, gravel spread and a few of the structures needed some additional support (TLC) to sturdy them up. I'm the one running the wheel barrow in the first picture.

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

We also put safety fences up as well, which is a good addition.

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
 

jspencer,
I don't know the RPM's of my OS right off the top of my head. I'll get a tach reading next time I go flying. I'm using a 14x6 prop on mine and I really like the way it flies with it.

Hooked,
I know that you're a busy man right now. Hang in there, you'll get it all done.

I know you've got a lot going on, just give me as much notice as you can when you get ready to maiden it. I'm really looking forward to trying to come up there for the maiden flight, I'm just gonna need to know when so I can plan it.