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Hi guys, here are some pics of my latest kit-built project: It's an "Aeron" fun fly machine made by Kevin Harbrecht in South Carolina.

Enya 45 power, Hitec 545BB servos, monokote and ultracote covering, weight rtf 4.5lbs.

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Here is the ele/rud servo installation that I modified to give the cables a strait shot to the control surfaces.

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Rear view

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HEY I had that checkerboard rudder patented on my first hard bet :D let us know how she flies

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Great project, LuvBipes. I really like the pull-pull arrangement.
What prop are you using on the Enya.45?
Best Regards,
GaryS

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Gary, I tried an APC 12.25X3.75 that gave great vertical, but the noise level was a bit too high. All I had in the box was an MA 11X7 which worked better, but I'm still going to experiment a bit with some other props. I think a 11X6 might be a good compromise.

Here;s the link to the manufacturer;s web page, btw: http://www.hsrcm.com/

SmallFly, I have 5 flights on her and still sorting it out. For flights 4and 5 the CG was moved back to 1/4" behind the main spar and that really brought the plane to life. Even w/ the 11X7 it will hover w/out difficulty. rudder authority is excellent, though it pitches quite a bit to the belly. This is my first FF machine, so I really don't know what to expect, since I've been flying IMAC/Pattern for the last few years, but this sure is fun!!

Gary, are you the same Gary S that built the GP Extra kit along w/ me back in 1999???

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Yup, I'm that 300s builder. Has it been that long ago? We're still at it! That's good!

I'm also currently building a profile design, the Morris Sledge, which has similar general construction as your Aeron.

In studying the pictures of the Aeron at the website I see the original control system is pull-pull through tubes in the fuselage.....ran in and back out; similar to the Sledge. I like your system better, but with one concern. How do you safely run each servo's electrical connector to the receiver? I figure you have channels through the internal stick structure of the fuse to thread the wires into the wing cavity. Would this significantly weaken the fuselage? Obviously you have done it, but I am interested in your thinking on that point. I am just to the point of closing up the Sledge’s fuselage so I could easily try your reengineering idea, too.

Have you flown the Aeron yet? I’ve down loaded your pictures into my collection of funfly photos. Great color scheme!
Gary S

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Gary, I too didn't relish the prospect of snaking cable guides and wires thru the fuse structure, so that's why I used this arrangement. It's simpler anf doesn't compromise the stick built structure.

For the rudder/ servo wires, I placed then on the left side of the fuse (opposite the engine exhaust) and routed then to the Rx thru a 1/2' hole in the wing center section sheeting.

It's good to hear you're still building kits. It seems that kit builders are a dying breed these days! My winter project will hopefully be a Goldberg 1/4 64" Bucker Jungmann biplane which I plan to power w/ a Saito 150.

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LuvBipes: I think I will try your rudder/elevator arrangment. I will channel the wires internally thorugh one 3/8" thick stick and then into the wing. The side sheeting should as well as other longerons (one is hardwood) should provide enough strength. I can't go on the outside because of the ailerons swinging so close to the fuselage.

Kits! That's all I have.....My backlog consist of a Sig 1/5 scale cub, an Aeroworks 300L Profile, 1/5 Pica Waco and Great Planes Ulitimate Bipe.

I had a Kyosho Flip on order for a while, but decided to go with the Sledge for 3D training! So much fun.