glue?
 

If the instructions do not specify a type of glue to use what glue should you use? I've heard that CA leave little room for re-placement of the parts and that it is very hard to sand. I know wood glue take a long time to dry, but Epoxy is heavy and is brittle. I also understand that Gorilla glue is expose to be hard to work with and heavy.

So for a beginner at building what would be good to use?

(all my info was learned watching a Very talented builder repair my PTS P-51. He showed me a stab. that looked like i was carve out of one peace but he seed that it was actually 5 peace glued and sanded to shape!!!)

RE: glue?
 

If the instructions say glue then most the new kits mean CA glue. If they say epoxy they usually tell you what type. CA comes in three types, thin is very fast setting and once it touches the two balsa halves it is set. Med. is A good choice, much slower then the thin and you can shift the parts if you hurry. The thick may be your best bet, much slower. All the CA types are harder to sand but it isn't as bad as some people say. The wood glues are an over night wait. They still make the ambroids and tester wood glues that most of us old time guys learned to build with. I use mostly the CAs but I always have Elmers wood glue on hand. Buy some small bottles and try them out on scrap wood to see what you like.

RE: glue?
 

epoxy (30 min) should only be used in high stress areas. the instructions for the kit should specify when epoxy is needed. other than that, its up to you. CA works good, if the fumes dont bother you, although its a good idea to have some sort of ventilation. the quick cure times make repositioning parts nearly impossible, so just make sure you test fit everything before gluing. I like to use alphatic resin (wood glue) because of its easy clean up and no harmful fumes. it does take longer to set, but i think its a good thing in case i have to reposition the part. the longer set times do slow the build down (unless you have the space to work on multiple assemblies) but to me, that helps me from getting ahead of myself and making mistakes.

RE: glue?
 

I have built entire models (lately) with Titebond II and epoxy only to glass the wing saddle and thinned as fuelproofing. CA is handy for wings and hinges but not necessary. I got into the habit of flexing every rib when doing a wing with CA and I find many that did not bond well with thin CA. I still don't fully trust it. I love CA Gel but it is pricey.

Wood glue takes a long time to dry, but excess/spills can be wiped up with a wet rag or finger and the parts can be worked into position for a long time. I prefer Titebond II unless I have a specific reason to use something else.

Back in the 70's and 80's it was Duco cement for everything and dope for any fuelproofing. Anyone remember Duco Cement? Talk about hard to sand.

RE: glue?
 

Thanks all,

Fumes would be a big problem as i will be building in my dorm room. I would really like to take my time (when i order the SSE it will be my first kit!) and do everything as good as i can (also i would like to work on it for 10-20 min. then study or fly or do HW while it drys) so i think I'm going to use mostly wood glue. I was more asking if what i was told is true and witch would provide the best bond for the lest amount of wight.

RE: glue?
 

Wood glue will work great. It will take more time than CA of course but that isn't always a big deal. I also like to Use Sig Bond here and there, especially for edge joining sheeting. It's soft enough that it doesn't leave a ridge when you sand the joint. It works for me anyhow.

RE: glue?
 

Mid 70s and 80s, I was using "HOT STUFF" CA, like most other people building R/C models! 60s early 70s was Ambroid. I still use Ambroid/Duco/Sig-ment for some applications. The fumes from CA is not far-reaching, really only in the immediate area of use and disburse quickly. Titebond/Elmer's work wonderfully and I can think of no reason not to build with. Funny, I've always found Duco/Ambroid to be easily sandable. I feel it is one of the best assets this type of glue has!

RE: glue?
 

Glue -- each glue has its strong points and you should different types for different things.

CA -- On laser cut stuff that is tight, I use CA. A good laser cut wing glued with CA can be build in a night!

Alphatic resin (Wood glue) is very strong and can be sanded. It takes time to cure and you need to use pins to keep things stable. I use this type where I need something a little stronger than CA can give but where epoxy is not needed.

Gorrilla Glue -- The glue is very strong and also sands pretty good. It expands and foams a little while curing. This type is very popular for wing skins where you need some time to get things down and you get the benefit of having it expand to fill little gaps.

Epoxy -- mostly 30 minute (for strength) but 5/6 minute ok for little things where you need a quicker bond and strength is secondary.

Sillicone -- (Bathroom caulking) is great for sealing around fuel tubes, adhering fuel tanks. Use is sparingly as it is heavy.

White Glue (Elmers) -- Great for skins and sheeting. Paint it on -- wait 30 minutes for it to get tacky, then iron on your sheeting with your irons hottest temperature.

Rubber Cement -- Ideal for bonding paper templates to balsa for cutting. Also works good to bond sand paper to blocks for sanding.

Loctite -- Any threaded hardware that needs to be secured, use thread locker (Blue is removable, Red is permenent).

Formula 560 -- A flexible clear glue designed for things like canopies.

Sigment/Ambroids -- Great for balsa -- a little strong on vapors -- sand good and is faster than Alphatic resins.

Other Stuff with glues -- Glass micro-ballons are a must for lightening up epoxies for things like fillets. Glass ballons will speed the cure time significantly so I usually only use 30 minute epoxy with them.

Polyester Resin -- Very noxtious, however, very very good at creating hard fillers when adding Micro-ballons. Sands much easier than epoxy.

Polycrylic -- Water based urethane very good for glassing or sealing koverall or solartex without the fumes of dope.

RE: glue?
 

Could have been that at the time I was building Guillows stick on frame free-flights . . . and probably using 7X more glue than necessary and using garnet sandpaper that was well and truly beyond worn out. (60's and 70's I guess, * sigh *)

I'm thinking the Fletch-tite I use to attach feathers to cedar (lacquered) arrows must be similar to Duco Cement. Familiar odor and ooze, but is very flexible and seems it would be a bear to sand - but the tip is tiny so not much is used or needed. Are "Ambroid" glues acetone & nitrate based?

RE: glue?
 

The old-style "Model Airplane" glues were acetate-types.

RE: glue?
 

Yeah, that's the stuff! Now kids have to turn to meth and crack cocaine for the same experience.

At least we were constructive. :D "I'll be in my room for a while, Ma. Gotta go work on my plane and listen to Pink Floyd."

"Lime and limpid green the second scene the fights between the bleu you once knew . . . "