Giving wood glue a whirl...
I'm going to start building an Ultra Sport 40 in a couple of days. I am planning on trying wood glue instead of CA. I will be using TiteBond2 and had a few questions:
What type of applicators should i use? Since this stuff is WAY thicker than any CA glue, I feel that application may be one of my biggest problems. Do i need to use clamping pressure? (like when the tail surfaces are being assembled) how long should i let the glue set up for before moving to the next step? This will be by third kit build. I used CA glue on the first two kits without any major problems (except for the fumes and sanding issues), but have read about how "once you go alphatic, you never go back," so i thought i would give it a try. thanks in advance! |
RE: Giving wood glue a whirl...
One of these...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGGG7&P=7 your finger, a wet rag and a scrap of balsa now and then to get the excess. You can keep the glue from setting up in the applicator by wrapping the tip with plastic warp. An clear it with a T-pin if it clogs. You don't need pressure just make sure the two surfaces have good contact. I wait about a half hour or an hour for it to setup....there's always other stuff to do. |
RE: Giving wood glue a whirl...
ORIGINAL: *JCB* I'm going to start building an Ultra Sport 40 in a couple of days. I am planning on trying wood glue instead of CA. I will be using TiteBond2 and had a few questions: What type of applicators should i use? Since this stuff is WAY thicker than any CA glue, I feel that application may be one of my biggest problems. Do i need to use clamping pressure? (like when the tail surfaces are being assembled) how long should i let the glue set up for before moving to the next step? This will be by third kit build. I used CA glue on the first two kits without any major problems (except for the fumes and sanding issues), but have read about how "once you go alphatic, you never go back," so i thought i would give it a try. |
RE: Giving wood glue a whirl...
I use a small sample bottle of Titebond and refill as necessary. I also keep a wet cloth handy for over application clean up when pieces are pressed together. Light clamping is necessary till the glue cures and if you plan ahead you can make additional sub assemblies and the first dries. I usually let mine sit for about 20 minutes before moving but it all depends on your shop temp and humidity. The nice thing is if you are off a on alignment you have time to reposition before the glue sets. I have read that even afterwards you can use a heat gun to "Soften" the glue and move a small amount.
For clamping small pieces I pin the bigger to my board and add the smaller pushing tight and pining them also. Little more work but no fumes, though I do use CA with a small fan blowing across my work bench, really helps. For larger pieces rubber bands work to hold as well as small spring clamps. JimO |
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