First Time Builder
 

Hey everyone. I have finially decided to build my first kit and am looking for some advice. I am going with the 4*40 and want to have it ready by the time I progress beyong the trainer stage.

What I am looking for are some no nonsense tips that all you guys have for a first time builder. Little stuff like what is the best cheap building board to use? Should the plans be cut into sections to make them more managable? All the kind of stuff that after you built a few planes you said "I wish I would have known to do it that way first"

I appreciate all the help this board has given me so far!!! :cool:

First Time Builder
 

It's amazing what you learn along the way... but in retrospect, that's part of the fun.

IMHO, your most import ant tool is your building board. If it's not straight, your plane won't be....


Invest in some long, straight sanding blocks. Don't scrimp on #11 blades, a razor saw comes in quite handy, lots of T-pins....

Patience. Take the time, be sure before you glue. Make your joints tight and go sparingly on the glue. Never build a kit too strong, lighter is better, less force on impact and it'll fly better so will be less likely to crash....

Consider better hardware. Most of the stuff thrown is kits is junk.
If a piece of wood looks questionable, replace it and use it elsewhere (eg. bracing, next plane, test scraps etc.)

Take the time while building to ensure everything is well built. Stand back, look at it, admire it... notice you built two left wings. :D
Don't be afraid to disassemble, make new parts and start over. Nothing will annoy you more than knowing your plane has some subtle flaw. No one else will notice, but you'll know....

The 4 Star is a nice easy kit to build and it flies very well, consider going with a separate servo for each aileron (I don't recall but, I think the kit recommends torque tubes).

You'll really enjoy it if you're happy with your handiwork. Pride of workmanship is the only form of pride that's not a sin. ;)

Enjoy!

Jim

First Time Builder
 

Fatcat

I try very hard not to cut up my plans ,probly the best advice I can give is read thru the entire instruction book a few times before you start,they sometimes jump around a little . any part that needs to be patterned by the cutting of the plans I make a traceing of and then work from that for a pattern, prefit all parts against the plans before glueing practice the fit be as precise as possible .

I use an old but flat and level hollow core door for my building table works very well.

look to see what else will be needed to complete the kit and aquire those things before you start , I personally hate to have to leave the project sit once I start, waiting for parts ,covering ,wheels or any of the varied things that are not provided with the kit , look at what is there when you open the box ,decide then if you want to use what is there or upgrade ,I check everything including the balsa ,you would be surprised how much difference can be made in weight of the finished plane by replaceing some of the heavier pieces that come in kits .

never hurry thru the building ,the results can be very dissapointing and frustrating to redo any portion of a project ,

good luck

Highlander

First Time Builder
 

'highlander' reminded me of a few points.

Trace all parts not shown on the plan... useful if you ever need to rebuild or build another at a later time.

Another 'thumbs up' to the hollow core door. You can get them fairly cheap in the scratch and dent section. Take a good, long straightedge with you to check them with. I set mine up on sawhorses.... I pin directly to the doors myself but I've seen many use a material known as homosote or even ceiling tiles.

First Time Builder
 

I use accoustic ceiling tiles to build on. They cost about $2.50 at Home Depot.

I always go to Kinkos and make a couple copies of the plans. This way I can cut them up as wanted and always have a extra set. When building cover the plans with wax paper so the glue will not stick to the plans.

The first page of the 4* instruction booklet will give you a good idea of things you will need for building.

You will be extremely happy with this plane.

First Time Builder
 

i am rather interested in this thread too.......i'm starting to build my kaos today :D and its the first kit i will build......i've build 3 1/2 A planes from scratch...and 2 arfs i hope i build my kaos good :stupid:

First Time Builder
 

I was told by my LHS to have a flat, straight surface to begin with and put an acoustical ceiling tile on that to pin to. This has worked wonders for me. I hope it helps you too. The one thing I could have used is a supplier to sell a "Build" kit, or a kit that has all the tools and glues needed.

First Time Builder
 

FatCat, you picked a good kit to start with, my first kit was the 4*60 and I had no problems with it. At first I didn't know what the instructions meant when they refered to the leading and trailing edge but I figured it out. You received some good advice on the thread so far, enjoy.

First Time Builder
 

I just hate to damage plans at all - if they are folded unfold them and roll them the creases will fall apart after a while

then take them down to kinkos and have them copied about $3 per sheet

use the copies and you can cut them to a more manageable size

spill glue on them, whatever and the originals are available for new copies


it's well worth the effort and cost to save your original plans

tracing any parts that are not on the plans is a good idea mark on them the type of wood, thickness, and hardness

it will help if the plane hits one of those pesky gravity holes and is worth repairing


good luck and happy building

First Time Builder
 

Hey FatCat. Kraus here and welcome to the real world; kit building.

Styrofoam board, t-pins, and wax paper are quite necessary.

A sanding bar, X-Acto saw set and knives are my friends.

I use Elmer's yellow glue for most applications.

I use epoxy glue of thirty minutes or longer setting time for areas requiring strength, firewall, wooden motor mount, strut and wing-half attachments.

Have fun and don't struggle always trying to make the kitter's ideas work. Invent your own.

Kraus

First Time Builder
 

thanks guys!! That styroform board or acoustic ceiling tile idea is great!!! What are the basic glues needed? In the kit SIG uses all their own brand names, but I am sure there are equivalent glues. Would a thin, medium, and thick CA be enough to complete the plane? Also what exactly is used for fuelproofing the firewall?

Keep the hints coming!

First Time Builder
 

Fatcat

the CA glues you mentioned are the standard now days , but along with them thirty minute or longer epoxy is used for strength applications ,wing joining landing gear blocks and such things , I use either sig coate or thinned epoxy to fuel proof with ,I lean towards the sig coate I personally dont think that it weighs as much as epoxy,I fuel proof everything from the firewall back to the first former , this includes the radio area of the fuse.

airbatic ,gave some good advice ,dont box yourself to the kitters Ideas ,many times there are easier and better ways to achieve a result , I would just caution you as a beginner builder to build as close to the plans and instructions for the first couple of planes ,and if possible meet some local flyer, builders at your local club that may be open to a phone call or two to help if you need or want it.

the saws and hobby knives are something that you cant live without ,as well as the block sander.

oh ya watch the thin CA it will glue you to the model before you know it , LOL

Highlander



I know some folks use the ceiling tile for a building table , but keep in mind the it requires a plywood or similar base to sit on ,or else it will sag in the middle , the hollow core door takes care of it in one piece.

First Time Builder
 

Debonder.....keep debonder handy, your fingers with thank you.

First Time Builder
 

Yes, CA is the popular glue these days but, I prefer good old wood, especially yellow "carpenter's glue". If it's good enough to hold up your house... :D

The nice thing is, I'm not poisoning myself (especially my lungs), I don't glue my fingers to anything, if I notice something is misaligned, I have time to adjust it, it sands well and cleans up with a damp cloth. Best of all, it's cheap. A litre costs about $5 and should last a dozen or so 1/4 scale models!

I do use epoxy for high stress areas and 'glassing', for fuel proofing, I prefer butyrate dope to thinned epoxy, it's much lighter.

About the only time I use CA these days is for leading edge sheeting, and even then, not all the time.

First Time Builder
 

My web site is devoted to model building. You might find some useful information there.

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...urce/index.htm

First Time Builder
 

Litre?

Oh, I forgot, Jim's from one of those "Third World" countries.

:D

First Time Builder
 

Hi Minn,

If you could help us "third world country" type convert measurements like footpounds per fortnight to horsepower we wouldn't have to rely on such antiquainted methods as base 10 math. :D

...

Actually, we converted to metric while I was in public school and I'm "bi-lingual" in both systems (SI as well)...

There are roughly 2.2 litres in a gallon ... uh ... I'm not sure if that's a ripoff... sorry, US gallon. :D

First Time Builder
 

C'mon Jim half the fun of building is seeing how many body parts you can keep from gluing to your plane.

First Time Builder
 

I wanted to get started building tonight...but now I am scared of gluing my head to the table or something since I don't have any debonder! (Murphy's Law) :bananahea Is there any home recipe for debonder?

First Time Builder
 

FatCat, no guts no glory. You thought this hobby was safe didn't you?

First Time Builder
 

Yes. Use Carpenter's glue instead of CA. It's better all the way around and won't slow you down significantly. If you don't believe me read this:

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...tion/index.htm

First Time Builder
 

I heard nail polish remover works, but it didn't when I used my wife's "Acetone Free" stuff.

Straight Surface.
 

Make sure your surface beneath the ceiling tile (available at lowes/homepot...get 2 while your there) is straight and ridgid. NOT THE TOP OF A CARD TABLE. They sag...i found out the hard way on my first kit many years ago....not much...but enough. I lay mine on one of those ponderosa pine things also available at lowes.

They will love you when you pull them all out to look for the straightest one. And then they will gasp when you actually put them back.

Remember, the investment into kit building is like jumping into the hobby at first. The initial expenditure on tools (like radio gear) will eventually be spread across many models in many years...skimp on the tools for the first one to make sure you like it. Then for your second or if your sure you will like building buy good tools and more importantly "the right tools for the jobs" and you will love them.\

DONT Spoil yourself with a laser kit up front....wait 4-5 kits down the road when your tired of shaping and sanding.

Nick

First Time Builder
 

runover1:

You told us why your wife's polish remover didn't work when you said "Acteone Free" as the acetone in the debonder is what does the job.

FatCat:

If you glue a finger down, you can unstick it by rolling it sideways, and breaking it loose gradually.

But if you glue your head down get out the scissors and start chopping your hair off.

In reality, gluing yourself to the model is more a joke than a hazard. Try not to do it, but if you do it's no big thing.

What is real danger, is a spill. If you dump some in your lap you'll sound like Jerry Lee Lewis, you'll jump around and yell "Great Balls of Fire." It will burn. Then to get your pants off (they will be ruined) just peel them slowly from one side.

The debonder's main use is to undo the errors you make when gluinig, otherwise it's not really necessary.

Enjoy kit building.

Bill.

First Time Builder
 

Fortunately, I lived in California in the 70's, so I learned a lot about the metric system...

But only Grams, and Kilos :D