hog bipe build oops
 

So last night I CA ed the hinges for the upper wing ailerons. One side i did not have enough gap so i ended up with only 1/2 inch deflection. I always try to get as small of a gap as possible but this time I goofed. All the other control surfaces are good to go.


Should I leave it? , Is 1/2 throw enough? or
should I cut the hinges off and reslot and reattach?

RE: hog bipe build oops
 

Depends, how do you fly?, sport flier or do you really crank it around? If you like easy smooth aerobatics, then leave it, but if you like snap rolling and putting it into flat-spins, then try to flex force the alerions to go more by hand, it they dont defect anymore, then cut and reslot them.

RE: hog bipe build oops
 

You might try adding more of a bevel to the ailerons or, if just the ailerons are beveled, you can add a slight bevel to the wing as well.  That should open things up for you to get more travel.

RE: hog bipe build oops
 

will the hog flat spin? I did flex it hard it started out at 3/8. ten i got a 1/2" out of it I probably will cut and reslot.
Chevelle. the wing and parts are covered. and the plans stated "do not bevel the wing trailing edge." I did sand for the max deflection with the min. gap
I just goofed on one. I should of built it like all my other kits and switched to pined hinges, and fitted for none to very little gaps. I followed the instructions on this build and used the supplied CA hinges. nothing Wrong with them, but this is my first time using them.

Heres a good question for you all
why cant you ever build the plane like the plans. you always have to modify something or change it?
Wife asked me this I said cause I can

RE: hog bipe build oops
 

I usually change out something that I know is weak or if I know a better way of doing the task at hand, other than that, I build them per plans, although, I did have a conversation with wendell hostetler one night, I asked him about his skybolt and before he told me anything about it, he mentioned that when he designed it, he over-built the design, and suggested thinning out the stock required. So ther, even the designer is redesigning his own kit, go figure? I just modify what I can to make it my own, the rest I leave as a tribute to the designer.

RE: hog bipe build oops
 

depend on the kit, most gp kits I've yet to modofy anything. TF kit about 50-50 on MODS, Sig kits I'm alway changing something but if I have any dought I stick to the plans. On ARF's, I usualy just cuss at em wishing I built it cause everything needs to be redonehttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...wink_smile.gif. Everything from the tank is too low or too high if ya can even get to em, don't like how they routed the pushrods, hardware given is junk anyway.

RE: hog bipe build oops
 

This is why you should deflect the control surfaces MORE than you want them to move (and then DON'T close the gap again) before adding the CA

RE: hog bipe build oops
 

With all respect and humer Minnflyer  "DUH"    All the others are beyond except for this one. I dont know what happened. perhaps I bumped it. Thats why I normally use pined nylon hinges with 1 hour epoxy, I put some petroleum jelly by the center of the hinge. attach the control surface and deflect the surfaces. Then let epoxy dry. Just thought I would try the CA hinges once.

RE: hog bipe build oops
 

Yeah, I use them, but rarely, nothing wrong with CA hinges, I'm just not to keen on them, I use pinned or robart hinge points on almost everything, heck, even my little 1/2A's get robart 1/2A hinges. But sometimes, especially ARF's when I do breakdown and get one, come setup to user them, unless I remove the covering to see if there's enough wood to use a pinned or robart hinges, it's just easier to use the CA hinges. But once I do enough damage to the covering to warrent a recovering, I change them out down the road.

RE: hog bipe build oops
 

I use the pinned hinges almost exclusively and even with those I usually try to mess up at least one of them, you know just for the fun of it ;)