I'm keeping the covers as I am rebuilding. I finally got my Kougar off the bench ready for a maiden flight, so tonight I dug out the other Komander kit. It's a MK I, but I have a MK II fuse kit which I will use. Until then, here's a picture of the Kougar ready to go!

Edit: Don't worry about the giant 911 in the background. That's just the time on my screensaver.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...fe3df93e1f.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...0d2e2468c5.jpg

What's with the 9/11 in the background?

LOL... that's just the time.... big old style digital clock as my screen saver.

:)
I was asleep for a decade....then, I heard about building 7.

Well, the Kougar is done, hopefully maiden this weekend, so it was time to drag my other Komander kit out of storage and get things started.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...5b322ae9cc.jpg

If you happen to change your mind about those wheel covers let me know. Otherwise, have a great time building...

Why don't you just pick up some 0.040 plastic sheet? Sig doesn't have that size in the aeroplastic anymore, but they have the clear sheet which would make cutting to size a breeze. Sand, prime, and paint, have to do that anyway,

Good idea. The stuff I have is too thick to heat mold to the shape of the bottom airfoil.

HAL9KPCM
Just a FYI, if you think you'll ever order a set of cores from Eureka Aircraft, you might want to keep the core cradle you have from Sig so you can mark where the landing gear block goes. I ordered a set from him, they are fine but you have to cut your own wells for the blocks.

Yup, thanks for the reminder. I have one complete kit (MKII) and one partial kit (MKI) missing the cores, cowl, canopy, and forward part of the elevator. I actually just ordered a set of cores, a canopy, and a cowl so that I can complete the third kit. As I am building the new one, I'm going to make some poster board templates of everything so that if I ever need to recreate from scratch, I can. I'll probably make some templates for the core cutouts just so have something easier to store. I know I can get the canopy at Park Flyer Plastics, but I've actually cast a mold of it as well so that if ever necessary, I can duplicate it. Going to do the same with the cowl. I love flying that plane and intend to always have one. I have a few projects on the go, but I am tempted to try scaling one up about 50%

It sounds like you're to be the world's leading expert on the Sig Komander. Before I get mine back in the air I'll be sure to contact you for specifications such as CG and control surface distances. I haven't flown mine for about 4 yrs and with the added weight I'm going to need all the help I can get.

What can I say? I love this plane! It has a unique look, can putz around like a trainer, or with a bit more power, rip around and be a blast! I sent the plan and the manual to a couple of places, here are the links so you can get the CG and control throws. On a side note, it's very forgiving on the CG. I balanced on my fingertips and thought I was nose heavy. Flew it an entire season. I later got a balance jig and for giggles put it on. It was sitting about 20 degrees down tail heavy LOL.

https://wanderings-ds.jimdo.com/sig-rc-kits-21-40/

https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=9124

Whoa that's a forgiving CG! Out of curiosity, what do you think about an os fs .70 for power? I haven't completed fiberglass so don't have a final dry weight yet but I presume she will be plenty heavy with retracts

Mine was 5.5lbs dry with an OS FS52 and flew it fine. I was originally trying with 11x6 and 11x7 props but found that it just didn't want to slow down for landings very well and performance wise, fine as a trainer, a bit of a dog as a sport plane. I settled on a 12x5, but to kept chipping props until I put a larger nose wheel on and slid the gear down in the mount a little. I was getting 11,300RPM on 10% nitro which many argue is too high for the four stroke, but that engine just seemed to be in the zone and ran great that way (theoretical 53mph/85kmph speed). Vertical performance was OK, but loops from level flight and maybe 1/3 stick pulling in, gradually to 1/2 stick pulling out with recommended throws were smooth and large. Based on that, your FS70 should haul it around no problem, but you might have to experiment with props to find your sweet spot and go with a larger nose wheel as well for a bit extra ground clearance.

Or, a 3 blade prop to gain ground clearance

Yup, whatever works. I just had zero availability for whatever reason for a three blade proper and spinner here in Canada. I could order in from the US, but then the shipping costs were ridiculous and not worth it.

3 prop is a great idea as I had to widdle the front gear down as much as possible because the tall shoulder wing retracts were already at their limit.

Well, made up the wing skins tonight and skinned the cores. I forgot how much my old computer weighed. It was probably damn near enough on its own.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...e3acb14ba2.jpg

Lol.....that's great!

HAL9KPCM,
What are you using to glue the wing Skins on that you need to use that much weight? I've been using DAP Weldwood non-flammable contact cement. It's safe for foam, you apply it to the skin and the core, let them become tacky, roll the core onto the skin, rub the skin down to ensure you have full contact and your done. No need to weight it down til the glue dries.
There's a Sig Kougar build on RCU that shows how to do this with this product. (Google it) Is this something they sell in Canada?

I'm using a water based contact cement. I just like to weight it down overnight. Maybe it's overkill, but they're stuck down solid and straight.

Sounds good, enjoy your build.

I weight them down too....less chance to induce a warp.
Big airplanes....aka, Carden Aircraft builders, use 400lbs of weights on the large wing panels to clamp them down flat.
When I skinned my King Kobra wings (with Z-Poxy)...I used about 75lbs+

That's how I look at it. Even contact cement is somewhat pliable initially. I built a Sig Mustang 450 years ago where when I skinned it, I could see a warp and I weighted things down over night and it was gone.

All good info lately on this thread.

Actually the pros like to vacuum bag everything. That really gets things tight, in all aspects. That's gained popularity for many reasons.

At this level though weighting down is fine no doubt.